The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

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16 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.CHAPTER II.SINGAPORE.(A SKETCH OF THE TOWN AND ISLAND AS SEEN DURING SEVERALVISITS FROM 1854 TO 1862.)Few places are more interesting to a traveller from Europethan the town and island of Singapore, furnishing, as it does,examples of a variety of Eastern races, and of many differentreligions and modes of life. The government, the garrison, andthe chief merchants are Englisli ; but the great mass of thepopulation is Chinese, including some of the wealthiestmerchants, the agriculturists of the interior, and most of themechanics and labourers. Tlie native Malays are usuallyfishermen and boatmen, and they form the main body of th^police. The Portuguese of Malacca supply a large number ofthe clerks and smaller mercliants.. The Klings of Western Indiaare a numerous body of Mahometans, and, with many Arab.?, arepetty merchants and shopkeepers. The grooms and washermenare all Bengalees, and there is a small but highly respectableclass of Parsee merchants. Besides these, there are numbers ofJavanese sailors and domestic servants, as well as traders fromCelebes, Bali, and many other islands of the Archipelago. Theharbour is crowded with men-of-war and trading vessels of manyEuropean nations, and hundreds of Malay praus and Chinesejunks, from vessels of several hundred tons burthen down tolittle fishing boats and passenger sampans ; and the town compriseshandsome public buildings and chui'ches, Maliometanmosques Hindoo temples, Chinese joss-houses, good Europeanhouses massive warehouses, queer old Kling and China bazaars,and long suburbs of Chinese and Malay cottages.By far the most conspicuous of the various kinds of people inSingapore, and those which most attract the stranger's attention,are the Chinese, whose numbers and incessant activity give theplace very much the appearance of a town in China. The Chinesemerchant is generally a fat round-faced man with an importantand business-like look. He wears the same style of clothing(loose white smock, and blue or black trousers) as the meanestcoolie, but of finer materials, and is alwaj^s clean and neat ; andhis long tail tipped Avith red silk hangs down to his heels. Hehas a handsome warehouse or shop in town and a good house inthe country. He keeps a fine horse and gig, and every eveningmay be seen taking a drive bareheaded to enjoy the cool breeze.He is rich, he owns several retail shops and trading schooners,he lends money at liigh interest and on good security, he makeshard bargains and gets fatter and richer every year.In tlie Chinese bazaar are hundreds of small shops in which a

II.] SINGAPORE. 17miscellaneous collection of hardware and dry goods are to befound, and where many things are sold wonderfully cheap. Youmay buy gimlets at a penny each, white cotton thread at fourballs for a halfpenny, and i:)enknives, corkscrews, gunjDowder,writing-pajjer, and many other articles as cheap or cheaper thanyou can purchase them in England. The shopkeeiDer is verygood-natured ; he will show you everything he has, and doesnot seem to mind if you buy nothing. He bates a little, but notso much as the Klings, who almost always ask twice Aviiat theyare willing to take. If you buy a few things of him, he willspeak to you afterwards every time you pass his shop, askingyou to walk in and sit down, or take a cup of tea, and youwonder how he can get a living where so many sell the sametrifling articles. The tailors sit at a table, not on one ; and boththey and the shoemakers work well and cheaply. The barbershave plenty to do, shaving heads and cleaning ears ; for whichlatter operation they have a great array of little tweezers, picks,and brushes. In the outskirts of the town are scores of carpentersand blacksmiths. The former seem chiefly to makecoffins and highly jjainted and decorated clothes-boxes. Thelatter are mostly gun-makers, and bore the barrels of guns byhand, out of solid bars of iron. At this tedious operation theymay be seen every day, and they manage to finish off" a gun witha flint lock very handsomely. All about the streets are sellersof water, vegetables, fruit, soup, and agar-agar (a jelly made ofseaweed), who have many cries as unintelligible as those ofLondon. Others carry a portable cooking-apparatus on a polebalanced by a tal)le at the other end, and serve up a meal ofshell-fish, rice, and vegetables for two or three halfi^ence ; whilecoolies and boatmen waiting to be hired are everywhere to bemet with.In the interior of the island the Chinese cut down forest treesin the jungle, and saw them uj) into planks ; they cultivatevegetables, which they bring to market ; and they grow- pepperand gambir, which form important articles of export. TheFrench Jesuits have established missions among these inlandChinese, which seem very successful. I lived for several weeksat a time with the missionary at Bukit-tima, about the centre ofthe island, w^here a pretty church has been built and thei'e areabout 300 converts. While there, I met a missionary who hadjust arrived from Tonquin, where he had been living for manyyears. The Jesuits still do their work thoroughly as of old. InCochin China, Tonquin, and China, where all Christian teachersare obliged to live in secret, and are liable to persecution, expulsion,and sometimes death,' every jDrovince, even those farthestin the interior, has a permanent Jesuit mission establisliment,constantly kept up by fresh aspirants, who are taught the languagesof the countries they are going to at Penang or Singapore.In China there are said to be near a million converts ; in1 Since the French settlement in Cochin China this is no longer the case.C

II.] SINGAPORE. 17miscellaneous collection <strong>of</strong> hardware and dry goods are to befound, and where many things are sold wonderfully cheap. Youmay buy gimlets at a penny each, white cotton thread at fourballs for a halfpenny, and i:)enknives, corkscrews, gunjDowder,writing-pajjer, and many o<strong>the</strong>r articles as cheap or cheaper thanyou can purchase <strong>the</strong>m in Eng<strong>land</strong>. <strong>The</strong> shopkeeiDer is verygood-natured ; he will show you everything he has, and doesnot seem to mind if you buy nothing. He bates a little, but notso much as <strong>the</strong> Klings, who almost always ask twice Aviiat <strong>the</strong>yare willing to take. If you buy a few things <strong>of</strong> him, he willspeak to you afterwards every time you pass his shop, askingyou to walk in and sit down, or take a cup <strong>of</strong> tea, and youwonder how he can get a living where so many sell <strong>the</strong> sametrifling articles. <strong>The</strong> tailors sit at a table, not on one ; and both<strong>the</strong>y and <strong>the</strong> shoemakers work well and cheaply. <strong>The</strong> barbershave plenty to do, shaving heads and cleaning ears ; for whichlatter operation <strong>the</strong>y have a great array <strong>of</strong> little tweezers, picks,and brushes. In <strong>the</strong> outskirts <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> town are scores <strong>of</strong> carpentersand blacksmiths. <strong>The</strong> former seem chiefly to makec<strong>of</strong>fins and highly jjainted and decorated clo<strong>the</strong>s-boxes. <strong>The</strong>latter are mostly gun-makers, and bore <strong>the</strong> barrels <strong>of</strong> guns byhand, out <strong>of</strong> solid bars <strong>of</strong> iron. At this tedious operation <strong>the</strong>ymay be seen every day, and <strong>the</strong>y manage to finish <strong>of</strong>f" a gun witha flint lock very handsomely. All about <strong>the</strong> streets are sellers<strong>of</strong> water, vegetables, fruit, soup, and agar-agar (a jelly made <strong>of</strong>seaweed), who have many cries as unintelligible as those <strong>of</strong>London. O<strong>the</strong>rs carry a portable cooking-apparatus on a polebalanced by a tal)le at <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r end, and serve up a meal <strong>of</strong>shell-fish, rice, and vegetables for two or three halfi^ence ; whilecoolies and boatmen waiting to be hired are everywhere to bemet with.In <strong>the</strong> interior <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> is<strong>land</strong> <strong>the</strong> Chinese cut down forest treesin <strong>the</strong> jungle, and saw <strong>the</strong>m uj) into planks ; <strong>the</strong>y cultivatevegetables, which <strong>the</strong>y bring to market ; and <strong>the</strong>y grow- pepperand gambir, which form important articles <strong>of</strong> export. <strong>The</strong>French Jesuits have established missions among <strong>the</strong>se in<strong>land</strong>Chinese, which seem very successful. I lived for several weeksat a time with <strong>the</strong> missionary at Bukit-tima, about <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> is<strong>land</strong>, w^here a pretty church has been built and <strong>the</strong>i'e areabout 300 converts. While <strong>the</strong>re, I met a missionary who hadjust arrived from Tonquin, where he had been living for manyyears. <strong>The</strong> Jesuits still do <strong>the</strong>ir work thoroughly as <strong>of</strong> old. InCochin China, Tonquin, and China, where all Christian teachersare obliged to live in secret, and are liable to persecution, expulsion,and sometimes death,' every jDrovince, even those far<strong>the</strong>stin <strong>the</strong> interior, has a permanent Jesuit mission establisliment,constantly kept up by fresh aspirants, who are taught <strong>the</strong> languages<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> countries <strong>the</strong>y are going to at Penang or Singapore.In China <strong>the</strong>re are said to be near a million converts ; in1 Since <strong>the</strong> French settlement in Cochin China this is no longer <strong>the</strong> case.C

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