The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

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348 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.ascended ceases to be navigable at tliis point, above which it isa little rocky brook, which quite dries up in the hot season.There was now, however, a fair stream of water in it ; and apath which was partly in and partly by the side of the water,promised well for insects^ as I here saw the magnificent bluebutterfly, Papilio ulysses, as well as several other fine species,flopping lazily along, sometimes resting high up on the foliagewhich drooped over the water, at others settling do^vn on thedamp rock or on the edges of muddy pools. A little way onseveral paths branched ofi" through patches of second-growthforest to cane-fields, gardens, and scattered houses, beyondwhich again the dark wall of verdure striped with tree-trunks,marked out the limits of the primaeval forests. The voices ofmany birds promised good shooting, and on my return I foundthat my boys had already obtained two or three kinds I had notseen before ; and in the evening a native l:)rought me a rare andbeautiful species of ground-thrush (Pitta novse-guineaj) hithertoonly known from Xew Guinea.As I improved my acquaintance with them I became muchinterested in these people, who are a fair samj^le of the truesavage inhabitants of the Aru Islands, tolerably free fromforeign admixture. The house I lived in contained four or fivefamilies, and there were generally from six to a dozen visitorsbesides. They kept up a continual row from morning till night—talking, laughing, shouting, without intermission^not verypleasant, but interesting as a study of national character. Myboy Ali said to me, " '"'Banyak quot bitchara Orang Aru (TheAru people are very strong talkers), never having been accustomedto such eloquence either in his own or any other countryhe had hitherto visited. Of an evening the men, having gotover their first shyness, began to talk to me a little, askingabout my country, ikc, and in return I questioned them aboutany traditions thej" had of their own oi-igin. I had, however,-A'ery little success, for I could not possibly make them under-.stand the simj^le question of wliere the Aru people first camefrom. I put it in every possible way to them, but it was asubject quite beyond their speculations ; they had evidentlynever thought of anything of the kind, and wei-e unable toconceive a thing so remote and so unnecessary to be thoughtabout as their own origin. Finding this hopeless, I asked ifthey knew when the trade with Aru first began, when the Bugisand Chinese and Macassar men first came in their jjraus to buytripang and tortoise-shell, and birds' nests, and Paradise birds?This they compi-ehended, but replied that there had always beenthe same trade as long as they or their fathers recollected, butthat this was the first time a real white man had come amongthem, and, said the\^, " You see how the people come every dayfrom all the villages round to look at you." This was very flattering,and accounted for the great concourse of visitors whichI had at first imagined was accidental. A few years before I

"XXXI.] ARU ISLANDS.—RESIDENCE IN THE INTERIOR. 349had been one of the gazers at the Zulus and the Aztecs inLondon. Now the tables were turned upon me, for I was tothese people a new and .strange variety of man, and had thehonour of affording to them, in my own person, an attractiveexhibition, gratis.All the men and boys of Aru are expert archers, never stirringwithout their bows and arrows. Thej^ shoot all sorts of birds,as well as pigs and kangaroos occasionally, and thus have atolerably good supply of meat to eat with their vegetables.The result of this better living is superior healthiness, well-madebodies, and generally clear skins. They brought me numbers ofsmall birds in exchange for beads or tobacco, but mauled themterribly, notwithstanding my repeated instructions. When theygot a bird alive they would often tie a string to its leg, andkeep it a day or two, till its plumage was so draggled and dirtiedas to be almost worthless. One of the first things I got fromthem was a living specimen of the curious and beautiful racquettailedkingfisher. Seeing how much I admired it, they afterwardsbrought me several more, which were allcauglit beforedaybreak, sleeping in cavities of the rocky banks of the stream.My hunters also sliot a few specimens, and almost all of themhad the red bill more or less clogged with mud and earth. Thisindicates the habits of the bird, which, though popularly a kingfishei',never catches fish, but lives on insects and minute shells,which itpicks up in the forest, darting down uj^on them fromits perch on some low Ijrancli. The genus Tanysii^tera, to whiclithis bird belongs, is remarkable for the enormously lengthenedtail, whicli in all other kingfishers is small and short. Linnseusnamed the species known to liim " the goddess kingfislier(Alcedo dea), from its extreme grace and beauty, the plumagebeing .brilliant blue and white, with the bill red, like coral.Several siDecies of these interesting birds are now known, allconfined within tlie very limited area whicli comprises theMoluccas, New Guinea, and the extreme north of Australia.They resemble each other so closely that several of them canonly be distinguished by careful comparison. One of the rarest,howevei', which inhabits New Guinea, is very distinct from therest, being bright red beneath instead of white. That which Inow obtained was a new one, and has been named Tanysijjterahydrocharis, but in general form and coloration it is exactlysimilar to the larger species found in Amboyna, and figured atpage 229.New and interesting birds were continually brought in, eitherby my own boys or by the natives, and at the end of a week Aliarrived triumiihant one afternoon with a fine specimen of theGreat Bird of Paradise. The ornamental plumes had not yetattained their full growth, but the richness of their glossyorange colouring, and the exquisite delicacy of the looselywaving feathers, were unsurpassable. At the same time agreat black cockatoo was brought in, as well as a fine fruit-

348 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.ascended ceases to be navigable at tliis point, above which it isa little rocky brook, which quite dries up in <strong>the</strong> hot season.<strong>The</strong>re was now, however, a fair stream <strong>of</strong> water in it ; and apath which was partly in and partly by <strong>the</strong> side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water,promised well for insects^ as I here saw <strong>the</strong> magnificent bluebutterfly, Papilio ulysses, as well as several o<strong>the</strong>r fine species,flopping lazily along, sometimes resting high up on <strong>the</strong> foliagewhich drooped over <strong>the</strong> water, at o<strong>the</strong>rs settling do^vn on <strong>the</strong>damp rock or on <strong>the</strong> edges <strong>of</strong> muddy pools. A little way onseveral paths branched <strong>of</strong>i" through patches <strong>of</strong> second-growthforest to cane-fields, gardens, and scattered houses, beyondwhich again <strong>the</strong> dark wall <strong>of</strong> verdure striped with tree-trunks,marked out <strong>the</strong> limits <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> primaeval forests. <strong>The</strong> voices <strong>of</strong>many birds promised good shooting, and on my return I foundthat my boys had already obtained two or three kinds I had notseen before ; and in <strong>the</strong> evening a native l:)rought me a rare andbeautiful species <strong>of</strong> ground-thrush (Pitta novse-guineaj) hi<strong>the</strong>rtoonly known from Xew Guinea.As I improved my acquaintance with <strong>the</strong>m I became muchinterested in <strong>the</strong>se people, who are a fair samj^le <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> truesavage inhabitants <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Aru Is<strong>land</strong>s, tolerably free fromforeign admixture. <strong>The</strong> house I lived in contained four or fivefamilies, and <strong>the</strong>re were generally from six to a dozen visitorsbesides. <strong>The</strong>y kept up a continual row from morning till night—talking, laughing, shouting, without intermission^not verypleasant, but interesting as a study <strong>of</strong> national character. Myboy Ali said to me, " '"'Banyak quot bitchara Orang Aru (<strong>The</strong>Aru people are very strong talkers), never having been accustomedto such eloquence ei<strong>the</strong>r in his own or any o<strong>the</strong>r countryhe had hi<strong>the</strong>rto visited. Of an evening <strong>the</strong> men, having gotover <strong>the</strong>ir first shyness, began to talk to me a little, askingabout my country, ikc, and in return I questioned <strong>the</strong>m abo<strong>utan</strong>y traditions <strong>the</strong>j" had <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir own oi-igin. I had, however,-A'ery little success, for I could not possibly make <strong>the</strong>m under-.stand <strong>the</strong> simj^le question <strong>of</strong> wliere <strong>the</strong> Aru people first camefrom. I put it in every possible way to <strong>the</strong>m, but it was asubject quite beyond <strong>the</strong>ir speculations ; <strong>the</strong>y had evidentlynever thought <strong>of</strong> anything <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> kind, and wei-e unable toconceive a thing so remote and so unnecessary to be thoughtabout as <strong>the</strong>ir own origin. Finding this hopeless, I asked if<strong>the</strong>y knew when <strong>the</strong> trade with Aru first began, when <strong>the</strong> Bugisand Chinese and Macassar men first came in <strong>the</strong>ir jjraus to buytripang and tortoise-shell, and birds' nests, and Paradise birds?This <strong>the</strong>y compi-ehended, but replied that <strong>the</strong>re had always been<strong>the</strong> same trade as long as <strong>the</strong>y or <strong>the</strong>ir fa<strong>the</strong>rs recollected, butthat this was <strong>the</strong> first time a real white man had come among<strong>the</strong>m, and, said <strong>the</strong>\^, " You see how <strong>the</strong> people come every dayfrom all <strong>the</strong> villages round to look at you." This was very flattering,and accounted for <strong>the</strong> great concourse <strong>of</strong> visitors whichI had at first imagined was accidental. A few years before I

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