The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

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;I332 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.race, were much more reserved and taciturn tlian those of Ke.This is probably because I only saw them as yet among strangersand in small parties. One must see the savage at home to knowwliat he really is. E^en here, however, the Papuan cliaractersometimes breaks out. Little boys sing cheerfully as they walkalong, or talk aloud to themselves (quite a negro characteristic)and, try all they can, the men cannot conceal tlieir emotions inthe true Malay fashion. A number of them were one day inmy house, and having a fancy to try what sort of eating tripangwould be, I bouglit a couple, paying for tliem with such an extravagantquantity of tobacco that the seller saw I was a greencustomer. He could not, however, conceal his delight, but ashe smelt the fragrant weed, and exhibited the large handful tohis companions, he grinned and twisted and gave silent chucklesin a most expressive pantomime. I had often before made thesame mistake in paying a Malay for some trifle. In no case,however, was his pleasure \4sible on his countenance^a dulland stupid hesitation only showing his surprise, which wouldbe exhibited exactly in the same way whether he was over orunder paid. These little nioral traits are of the gi-eatest interestwhen taken in connexion with phj^sical features. They do notadmit of the same ready explanation by external causes whichis so frequently applied to the latter. Winters on the races ofmankind have too often to trust to the information of travellerswho pass I'apidly fi'om country to country, and tlms have fewopportunities of becoming acquainted witli peculiai'ities ofnational character, or e^"en of ascertaining what is really theaverage physical conformation of the people. Such are exceedinglyapt to be deceived in places where two races have longintermingled, by looking on intermediate forms and mixedhabits as evidences of a natural transition from one race to theother, instead of an artificial mixture of two distinct peoples;and they will be the more readily led into tliis error if, as in thepresent case, writers on the subject should have been in thehabit of classing these races as mere varieties of one stock, asclosely related in physical conformation as from their geograpliicalproximity one might supjiosc they ought to be. Sofar as I have yet seen, tlie 5lalay and Pajiuan ajjpear to be aswidel}^ separated as any two human races that exist, being distinguishedby physical, mental, and moral characteristics, all ofthe most marked and striking kind.Feb. 5th.—I took advantage of a very fine calm day to pay avisit to the island of Wokan, which is about a mile from us, andforms part of the "tanna busar," or mainland of Aru. This is alarge island, extending from north to south about a hundredmiles, but so low in many parts as to be intersected by severalcreeks, which run completely tlirough it, offering a passage forgood-sized vessels. On the west side, where we are, there areonly a few outlying islands, of wliich ours (Wamma) is the principal;l)ut on the east coast are a great number of i.slands,

XXX.] THE ARU ISLANDS.—RESIDENCE IN DOBBO. 333extending some miles beyond the mainland, and forming the" blakang tana," or " back country," of the t)-aders, being theprincipal seat of the pearl, tripang, and tortoiseshell fisheries.To the mainland many of the birds and animals of the countryare altogether confined ; the Birds of Paradise, the black cockatoo,the great brush-turkey, and the cassowary, are none of themfound on Wamma, or any of the detached islands. I did not,liowever, expect in this excursion to see any decided diflerencein the forest or its productions, and was therefore agreeablysurprised. The beach was overhung with the drooping branchesof large trees, loaded with Orchidete, ferns, and otlier epiphytalplants. In the forest there was more variety, some parts beingdry, and with trees of a lower growth, while in others therewere some of the most beautiful palms I have ever seen, with aperfectly straight, smooth, slender stem, a hundred feet high,and a crown of handsome drooping leaves. But the greatestnovelty and most striking feature to my eyes were the tree-ferns,which," after seven years spent in the tropics, I now saw in perfectionfor the first time. All I liad hitherto met with wereslender species, not more than twelve feet high, and they gavenot the least idea of the supreme beauty of trees l:)earing theirelegant heads of fronds more than thirty feet in the air, likethose which were plentifully scattered about this forest. Thereis nothing in tropical vegetation so perfectly beautiful.My boys shot five sorts of birds, none of which we hadobtained during a month's shooting in Wamma. Two werevery pretty flycatchers, already known from New Guinea ; oneof them (Monarcha chrysomela), of brilliant black and brightorange colours, is by some autliors considered to be the mostbeautiful of all flycatchers ;the other is pure white and velvetyblack, with a broad fleshy ring round the eye of an azure bluecolour ; it is named the " spectacled flycatcher " (Monarchatelescopthalma), and was first found in New Guinea, along Avitlithe otlier, by the French naturalists during the voyage of thediscovery-shipCoquUle.Feb. I8t/i.—Before leaving Macassar, I had written to theGovernor of Amboyna requesting him to assist me with thenative chiefs of Ai-u. I now received by a vessel which hadarrived from Amboyna a very polite answer, informing me thatorders had been sent to give me every assistance that I mightrequire ; and I was just congratulating myself on being at lengthable to get a boat and men to go to tlie mainland and explorethe interior, when a sudden clieck came in the form of a pii'aticalincursion. A small prau arrived which liad been attacked bypirates and had a man wounded. They were said to have fiveboats, but more were expected to be behind, and the traderswere all in consternation, fearing that their small vessels senttrading to the " blakang tana " would be plundered. The Arunati\es were of course dreadfully alarmed, as these maraudersattack their villages, burn and murder, and carry away women

;I332 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.race, were much more reserved and taciturn tlian those <strong>of</strong> Ke.This is probably because I only saw <strong>the</strong>m as yet among strangersand in small parties. One must see <strong>the</strong> savage at home to knowwliat he really is. E^en here, however, <strong>the</strong> Papuan cliaractersometimes breaks out. Little boys sing cheerfully as <strong>the</strong>y walkalong, or talk aloud to <strong>the</strong>mselves (quite a negro characteristic)and, try all <strong>the</strong>y can, <strong>the</strong> men cannot conceal tlieir emotions in<strong>the</strong> true <strong>Malay</strong> fashion. A number <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m were one day inmy house, and having a fancy to try what sort <strong>of</strong> eating tripangwould be, I bouglit a couple, paying for tliem with such an extravagantquantity <strong>of</strong> tobacco that <strong>the</strong> seller saw I was a greencustomer. He could not, however, conceal his delight, but ashe smelt <strong>the</strong> fragrant weed, and exhibited <strong>the</strong> large handful tohis companions, he grinned and twisted and gave silent chucklesin a most expressive pantomime. I had <strong>of</strong>ten before made <strong>the</strong>same mistake in paying a <strong>Malay</strong> for some trifle. In no case,however, was his pleasure \4sible on his countenance^a dul<strong>land</strong> stupid hesitation only showing his surprise, which wouldbe exhibited exactly in <strong>the</strong> same way whe<strong>the</strong>r he was over orunder paid. <strong>The</strong>se little nioral traits are <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> gi-eatest interestwhen taken in connexion with phj^sical features. <strong>The</strong>y do notadmit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same ready explanation by external causes whichis so frequently applied to <strong>the</strong> latter. Winters on <strong>the</strong> races <strong>of</strong>mankind have too <strong>of</strong>ten to trust to <strong>the</strong> information <strong>of</strong> travellerswho pass I'apidly fi'om country to country, and tlms have fewopportunities <strong>of</strong> becoming acquainted witli peculiai'ities <strong>of</strong>national character, or e^"en <strong>of</strong> ascertaining what is really <strong>the</strong>average physical conformation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> people. Such are exceedinglyapt to be deceived in places where two races have longintermingled, by looking on intermediate forms and mixedhabits as evidences <strong>of</strong> a natural transition from one race to <strong>the</strong>o<strong>the</strong>r, instead <strong>of</strong> an artificial mixture <strong>of</strong> two distinct peoples;and <strong>the</strong>y will be <strong>the</strong> more readily led into tliis error if, as in <strong>the</strong>present case, writers on <strong>the</strong> subject should have been in <strong>the</strong>habit <strong>of</strong> classing <strong>the</strong>se races as mere varieties <strong>of</strong> one stock, asclosely related in physical conformation as from <strong>the</strong>ir geograpliicalproximity one might supjiosc <strong>the</strong>y ought to be. S<strong>of</strong>ar as I have yet seen, tlie 5lalay and Pajiuan ajjpear to be aswidel}^ separated as any two human races that exist, being distinguishedby physical, mental, and moral characteristics, all <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> most marked and striking kind.Feb. 5th.—I took advantage <strong>of</strong> a very fine calm day to pay avisit to <strong>the</strong> is<strong>land</strong> <strong>of</strong> Wokan, which is about a mile from us, andforms part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> "tanna busar," or main<strong>land</strong> <strong>of</strong> Aru. This is alarge is<strong>land</strong>, extending from north to south about a hundredmiles, but so low in many parts as to be intersected by severalcreeks, which run completely tlirough it, <strong>of</strong>fering a passage forgood-sized vessels. On <strong>the</strong> west side, where we are, <strong>the</strong>re areonly a few outlying is<strong>land</strong>s, <strong>of</strong> wliich ours (Wamma) is <strong>the</strong> principal;l)ut on <strong>the</strong> east coast are a great number <strong>of</strong> i.s<strong>land</strong>s,

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