The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

wallace.online.org
from wallace.online.org More from this publisher
11.07.2015 Views

328 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.spread on the floor, a window cut in the palm-leaf wall to lightmy table, and though the place was as miserable and gloomya shed as could be imagined, I felt as contented as if I hadobtained a well-furnished mansion, and looked forward to amonth's residence in it with unmixed satisfaction.The next morning, after an early breakfast, I set off to explorethe virgin forests of Aru, anxious to set my mind at rest as tothe treasures they were likely to yield, and the probable successof my long-meditated expedition. A little native imp was ourguide, seduced by the gift of a German knife, value threehalfpence,and my Macassar boy Baderoon brought his chopperto clear the jDath if necessary.We liad to walk about half a mile along the beach, the groundbehind the village being mostly swampy, and then turned intothe forest along a path which leads to the native village ofV\^amma, about three miles off on the other side of the island.The path was a narrow one, and very little used, often swampyand obstructed by fallen trees, so that after about a mile welost it altogether, our guide having turned back, and we wereobliged to follow his example. In the meantime, however, I hadnot been idle, and my day's captures determined tlie success ofmy journey in an entomological point of view. I had takenabout thirty species of butterflies, more than I had ever capturedin a day since leaving the prolitic banks of the Amazon, andamong them were many most rare and beautiful insects, hithertoonly known by a few specimens from New Guinea. The largeand handsome spectre-butterfly, Hestia durvillei ; the palewingedpeacock butterfly, Drusilla catops ; and the most brilliantand wonderful of the clear-winged moths, Cocytia d'Urvillei,were especially interesting, as well as sevei^al little "blues,"equalling in brilliancy and beauty anything the butterfly worldcan produce. In tlie other groups of insects I was not so successful,but this was not to be wondered at in a mere exploringramble, when only what is most conspicuous and novel attractsthe attention. Several pretty beetles, a superb " bug," and a fewnice land-shells were obtained, and I returned in the afternoonwell satisfied with my first trial of the ijromised land.The next two days were so wet and windy that there was nogoing out ; but on tlie succeeding one the sun shone brightly,and I had the good fortune to caj^ture one of the most magnificentinsects the world contains, the great bird-winged butterfly,Ornithoptera poseidon. I trembled with excitement as Isaw it coming majestically towards me, and could hardly believeI had really succeeded in my stroke till I had taken it out ofthe net and was gazing, lost in admiration, at the velvet blackand brilliant green of its Avings, seven inclies across, its goldenbody, and crimson breast. It is true I had seen similar insectsin cabinets at liome, but it is quite anotlier thing to capturesuch one's self—to feel it struggling between one's fingers,and to gaze upon its fresh and living beauty, a bright gem shin-

XXX.] THE ARU ISLANDS.—RESIDENCE IN DOBBO. 329ing out amid the silent gloom of a dark and tangled forest. Thevillage of Dobbo held that evening at least one contented man.Jan. 26tJi.—Having now been here a fortnight, I began tounderstand a little of the place and its peculiarities. Prauscontinually arrived, and the merchant population increa.sedalmost daily. Every two or three days a fresh house wasopened, and the necessary repairs made. In every directionmen were bringing in poles, bamboos, rattans, and the leaves ofthe ni])a palm to construct or repair the walls, thatch, doors,and shutters of their liouses, wliich they do with great celerity.Some of the arrivals were Macassar men or Bugis, but morefrom the small island of Goram, at the east end of Ceram, whoseinhabitants are the petty traders of the far East. Then thenatives of Aru come in from the other side of the islands (calledhere '' blakang tana," or " back of the country '") witli the producethey liave collected during the preceding six months, andwhich they now sell to tlie traders, to some of whom they aremost likely in debt. Almost all, or I may safelj^ say all, the newarrivals pay me a visit, to see with their own eyes the unheardofi^henomenon of a person come to stay at Dobbo who does nottrade ! They have their own ideas of the uses tlmt may possiblybe made of stuffed birds, beetles, and shells which are not theright sliells—that is, " motlier-ofiDearl." They every day bringme dead and broken .shells, such as I can pick up by hundredson the beach, and seem quite puzzled and distressed when I declinethem. If, however, there are any snail shells among thelot, I take them, and ask for more—a j^rinciple of selection soutterly unintelligible to them, that they give it up in despair,or solve the problem by imputing hidden medical virtue to thosewhich they see me preserve so carefully.These traders are all of the Malay race, or a mixture of whichMalay is the chief ingredient, with the exception of a fewChinese. The natives of Aru, on the other hand, are Papuans,with black or sooty brown skins, woolly or frizzly hair, thickridgedprominent noses, and I'ather slender limbs. ]\Iost ofthem wear nothing but a waist-clotli, and a few of them maybe seen all day long wandering about the half-deserted streets ofDobbo offering their little bit of merchandise for sale.Living in a trader's house everything is brought to me aswell as to tlie rest—bundles of smoked tripang, or hiche demer, looking like sausages whicli have been rolled in mud andthen thrown up the chimney ; dried shai'ks' tins, mother-of-pearlshells, as well as Birds of Paradise, wliich, Iiowever, are so dirtyand so badly preserved that I have as yet found no specimensworth purchasing. When I hardly look at the articles, and makeno offer for them, they seem incredulous, and, as if fearing theyhave misunderstood me, again offer them, and declare what theywant in return—knives, or tobacco, or sago, or handkerchiefs.I then lia\e to endeavour to explain, througli any interpreterwlio may be at hand, that neither tripang nor pearl oyster shells

328 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.spread on <strong>the</strong> floor, a window cut in <strong>the</strong> palm-leaf wall to lightmy table, and though <strong>the</strong> place was as miserable and gloomya shed as could be imagined, I felt as contented as if I hadobtained a well-furnished mansion, and looked forward to amonth's residence in it with unmixed satisfaction.<strong>The</strong> next morning, after an early breakfast, I set <strong>of</strong>f to explore<strong>the</strong> virgin forests <strong>of</strong> Aru, anxious to set my mind at rest as to<strong>the</strong> treasures <strong>the</strong>y were likely to yield, and <strong>the</strong> probable success<strong>of</strong> my long-meditated expedition. A little native imp was ourguide, seduced by <strong>the</strong> gift <strong>of</strong> a German knife, value threehalfpence,and my Macassar boy Baderoon brought his chopperto clear <strong>the</strong> jDath if necessary.We liad to walk about half a mile along <strong>the</strong> beach, <strong>the</strong> groundbehind <strong>the</strong> village being mostly swampy, and <strong>the</strong>n turned into<strong>the</strong> forest along a path which leads to <strong>the</strong> native village <strong>of</strong>V\^amma, about three miles <strong>of</strong>f on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> is<strong>land</strong>.<strong>The</strong> path was a narrow one, and very little used, <strong>of</strong>ten swampyand obstructed by fallen trees, so that after about a mile welost it altoge<strong>the</strong>r, our guide having turned back, and we wereobliged to follow his example. In <strong>the</strong> meantime, however, I hadnot been idle, and my day's captures determined tlie success <strong>of</strong>my journey in an entomological point <strong>of</strong> view. I had takenabout thirty species <strong>of</strong> butterflies, more than I had ever capturedin a day since leaving <strong>the</strong> prolitic banks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Amazon, andamong <strong>the</strong>m were many most rare and beautiful insects, hi<strong>the</strong>rtoonly known by a few specimens from New Guinea. <strong>The</strong> largeand handsome spectre-butterfly, Hestia durvillei ; <strong>the</strong> palewingedpeacock butterfly, Drusilla catops ; and <strong>the</strong> most brilliantand wonderful <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> clear-winged moths, Cocytia d'Urvillei,were especially interesting, as well as sevei^al little "blues,"equalling in brilliancy and beauty anything <strong>the</strong> butterfly worldcan produce. In tlie o<strong>the</strong>r groups <strong>of</strong> insects I was not so successful,but this was not to be wondered at in a mere exploringramble, when only what is most conspicuous and novel attracts<strong>the</strong> attention. Several pretty beetles, a superb " bug," and a fewnice <strong>land</strong>-shells were obtained, and I returned in <strong>the</strong> afternoonwell satisfied with my first trial <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ijromised <strong>land</strong>.<strong>The</strong> next two days were so wet and windy that <strong>the</strong>re was nogoing out ; but on tlie succeeding one <strong>the</strong> sun shone brightly,and I had <strong>the</strong> good fortune to caj^ture one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> most magnificentinsects <strong>the</strong> world contains, <strong>the</strong> great bird-winged butterfly,Ornithoptera poseidon. I trembled with excitement as Isaw it coming majestically towards me, and could hardly believeI had really succeeded in my stroke till I had taken it out <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> net and was gazing, lost in admiration, at <strong>the</strong> velvet blackand brilliant green <strong>of</strong> its Avings, seven inclies across, its goldenbody, and crimson breast. It is true I had seen similar insectsin cabinets at liome, but it is quite anotlier thing to capturesuch one's self—to feel it struggling between one's fingers,and to gaze upon its fresh and living beauty, a bright gem shin-

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!