The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
310 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.all that is strange and new and wonderful to young imaginations—London !By the help of some kind friends I was introduced to theowner of one of the large praus which was to sail in a few days.He was a Javanese half-caste, intelligent, mild, and gentlemanlyin his manners, and had a young and pretty Dutch wife, whomhe was going to leave behind during his absence. When wetalked about passage money he would fix no sum, but insistedon leaving it entirelj^ to me to pay on my return exactly whatI liked. " And then," said he, " whether you give me one dollaror a hundred, I sliall be satisfied, and shall ask no more."The remainder of my stay was fully occupied in laying instores, engaging servants, and making every other preparationfor an absence of seven months from even the outskirts ofcivilization. On the morning of December 13th, when we wenton board at daybreak, it was raining hai'd. We set sail and itcame on to blow. Our boat was lost astern, our sails damaged,and the evening found us back again in Macassar harbour. Weremained there four days longer, owing to its raining all thetime, thus rendering it impossible to dry and repair the hugemat sails. All these dreary days I remained on board, andduring the rare intervals when it didn't rain, made myselfacquainted with our outlandish craft, some of the peculiaritiesof which I will now endeavour to describe.It was a Aessel of about seventy tons burthen, and shapedsomething like a Chinese junk. The deck sloped considerablydownward to the bows, which are thus the lowest part of theship. There were two large rudders, but instead of being placedastern they were hung on the quarters from strong cross beams,which projected out two or three feet on each side, and to whichextent the deck overhung the sides of tlie vessel amidships. Theruddei\s Avere not hinged but hung with slings of rattan, thefriction of which keeps them in any position in which they areplaced, and thus perhaps facilitates steering. The tillers werenot on deck, but entered the vessel through two square openingsinto a lower or half deck about three feet high, in which sit thetwo steersmen. In the after part of the vessel was a low poop,about three and a half feet high, which forms the captain'scabin, its furniture consisting of boxes, mats, and pillows. Infront of the poojD and mainmast was a little thatched house ondeck, about four feet high to the ridge ;and one compai'tmentof tliis, forming a cabin six and a half feet long by live and ahalf wide, I had all to myself, and it was the snuggest and mostcomfortable little place I ever enjoyed at sea. It was enteredby a low sliding door of thatch on one side, and had a very smallwindow on the otiier. The floor Avas of split bamboo, pleasantlyelastic, raised six inches above the deck, so as to be quite dry.It was covered with fine cane mats, for the manufacture of whichMacassar is celebrated ;against the further Avail Avere arrangedmy gun-case, insect-boxes, clothes, and books ; my mattress
sxYiii.] MACASSAR TO THE ARU ISLANDS. 311occupied the middle, and next the door were my canteen, lamp,and little store of luxuries for the voyage ; while guns, revolver,and hunting knife hung conveniently from the roof. Duringthese four miserable days I was quite jolly in this little snuggery—more so than I should have been if confined the same time tothe gilded and uncomfortable saloon of a first-class steamer.Then, how comparatively sweet was everything on board—nopaint, no tar, no new rojoe, (vilest of smells to the qualmish !)no grease, or oil, or varnish ; but instead of these, bamboo andrattan, and coir rope and palm thatch ;pure vegetable fibres,which smell pleasantly if they smell at all, and recall quietscenes in the green and shady forest.Our ship had two masts, if masts they can be called, whichwere great movable triangles. If in an ordinary ship you replacethe shrouds and backstay by strong timbers, and takeaway the mast altogether, you have the arrangement adoptedon board a prau. Above my cabin, and resting on cross-beamsattached to the masts, was a wilderness of yards and spai's,mostly formed of bamboo. The mainyard, an immense aflfairnearly a hundred feet long, was formed of many pieces of woodand bamboo bound together with rattans in an ingenious manner.The sail carried by this was of an oblong shape, and was hungout of the centre, so that when the short end was hauled downon deck the long end mounted high in the air, making up for thelowness of the mast itself. The foresail was of the same shape,but smaller. Both these were of matting, and with two jibs anda fore and aft sail astern of cotton canvas, completed our rig.The crew consisted of about thirty men, natives of Macassarand the adjacent coasts and islands. They were mostly young,and were short, broad-faced, good-humoured-looking fellows.Their dress consisted generally of a pair of trousers only whenat work, and a handkerchief twisted round the head, to whichin the evening they would add a thin cotton jacket. Four ofthe elder men were " jurumudis," or steersmen, who had to squat(two at a time) in the little steerage before described, changingevery six hours. Then there was an old man, the " juragan," orcaptain, but who was really what we should call the first mate ;he occupied the other half of the little house on deck. Therewere about ten respectable men, Chinese or Bugis, whom ourowner used to call " his own peojDle." He treated them verywell, shared his meals with them, and spoke to them always withperfect politeness ;yet they were most of them a kind of slavedebtors, bound over by the police magistrate to work for him atmere nominal wages for a term of years till their debts wereliquidated. This is a Dutch institution in this part of the world,and seems to work well. It is a great boon to tradei's, who cando nothing in these thinly-populated regions without trustinggoods to agents and petty dealers, who frequently squanderthem away in gambling and debauchery. The lower classes arealmost all in a chronic state of debt. The merchant trusts them
- Page 295 and 296: XXIV.] BATCHIAN. 261individuals. Wh
- Page 297 and 298: XXIV.] BATCHIAK 263in the Moluccas.
- Page 299 and 300: XXIV.] BATCHIAK 265usual and except
- Page 301: XXV.] CERAM, GORAM, AND THE MATABEL
- Page 304 and 305: 270 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.ve
- Page 306 and 307: 272 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.in
- Page 308 and 309: —;I274 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [ch
- Page 310 and 311: ;276 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.p
- Page 312 and 313: 278 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap. x
- Page 314 and 315: 280 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap,Ce
- Page 316 and 317: ;282 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.i
- Page 318 and 319: 284 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.th
- Page 320 and 321: 286 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.of
- Page 322 and 323: ;288 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.i
- Page 324 and 325: 290 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.or
- Page 326 and 327: 292 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.tr
- Page 328 and 329: 294 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.we
- Page 330 and 331: 296 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.co
- Page 332 and 333: 298 THE :MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.s
- Page 334 and 335: 300 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.la
- Page 336 and 337: 302 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.pe
- Page 338 and 339: 304 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.Ob
- Page 340: 306 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap100
- Page 343 and 344: xxvii.] THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE
- Page 345: xxv-iii.] MACASSAR TO THE ARU ISLAN
- Page 349 and 350: xsviii.] MACASSAR TO THE ARU ISLAND
- Page 351 and 352: —xxviii.] MACASSAR TO THE ARU ISL
- Page 353 and 354: XXIX.] THE K6 islands. 317we rounde
- Page 355 and 356: sxix.] THE Kf; ISLANDS. 319Mongolia
- Page 357 and 358: iXXIX.] THE Kfi ISLA]SrDS. 321littl
- Page 359 and 360: XXIX.] THE Kfi ISLANDS. 323himself
- Page 361 and 362: —XXIX.] THE Kl: ISLANDS. 325leave
- Page 363 and 364: XXX.] THE ARU ISLANDS.—RESIDENCE
- Page 365 and 366: XXX.] THE ARU ISLANDS.—RESIDENCE
- Page 367 and 368: —XXX.] THE ARU ISLANDS.—RESIDEX
- Page 369 and 370: XXX.] THE ARU ISLANDS.—RESIDENCE
- Page 371 and 372: XXX.] THE ARU ISLANDS.—RESIDENCE
- Page 374 and 375: NATIVES OF ARU SHOOTING THE GREAT B
- Page 376 and 377: 338 THE JIALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.r
- Page 378 and 379: 340 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.sa
- Page 380 and 381: 342 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.tl
- Page 382 and 383: 344 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [cHAf.Th
- Page 384 and 385: .346 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [cnAP.t
- Page 386 and 387: 348 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.as
- Page 388 and 389: 350 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.pi
- Page 390 and 391: "352 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.t
- Page 392 and 393: 354 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.I
- Page 394 and 395: 356 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.sc
310 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.all that is strange and new and wonderful to young imaginations—London !By <strong>the</strong> help <strong>of</strong> some kind friends I was introduced to <strong>the</strong>owner <strong>of</strong> one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> large praus which was to sail in a few days.He was a Javanese half-caste, intelligent, mild, and gentlemanlyin his manners, and had a young and pretty Dutch wife, whomhe was going to leave behind during his absence. When wetalked about passage money he would fix no sum, but insistedon leaving it entirelj^ to me to pay on my return exactly whatI liked. " And <strong>the</strong>n," said he, " whe<strong>the</strong>r you give me one dollaror a hundred, I sliall be satisfied, and shall ask no more."<strong>The</strong> remainder <strong>of</strong> my stay was fully occupied in laying instores, engaging servants, and making every o<strong>the</strong>r preparationfor an absence <strong>of</strong> seven months from even <strong>the</strong> outskirts <strong>of</strong>civilization. On <strong>the</strong> morning <strong>of</strong> December 13th, when we wenton board at daybreak, it was raining hai'd. We set sail and itcame on to blow. Our boat was lost astern, our sails damaged,and <strong>the</strong> evening found us back again in Macassar harbour. Weremained <strong>the</strong>re four days longer, owing to its raining all <strong>the</strong>time, thus rendering it impossible to dry and repair <strong>the</strong> hugemat sails. All <strong>the</strong>se dreary days I remained on board, andduring <strong>the</strong> rare intervals when it didn't rain, made myselfacquainted with our out<strong>land</strong>ish craft, some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> peculiarities<strong>of</strong> which I will now endeavour to describe.It was a Aessel <strong>of</strong> about seventy tons bur<strong>the</strong>n, and shapedsomething like a Chinese junk. <strong>The</strong> deck sloped considerablydownward to <strong>the</strong> bows, which are thus <strong>the</strong> lowest part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ship. <strong>The</strong>re were two large rudders, but instead <strong>of</strong> being placedastern <strong>the</strong>y were hung on <strong>the</strong> quarters from strong cross beams,which projected out two or three feet on each side, and to whichextent <strong>the</strong> deck overhung <strong>the</strong> sides <strong>of</strong> tlie vessel amidships. <strong>The</strong>ruddei\s Avere not hinged but hung with slings <strong>of</strong> rattan, <strong>the</strong>friction <strong>of</strong> which keeps <strong>the</strong>m in any position in which <strong>the</strong>y areplaced, and thus perhaps facilitates steering. <strong>The</strong> tillers werenot on deck, but entered <strong>the</strong> vessel through two square openingsinto a lower or half deck about three feet high, in which sit <strong>the</strong>two steersmen. In <strong>the</strong> after part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vessel was a low poop,about three and a half feet high, which forms <strong>the</strong> captain'scabin, its furniture consisting <strong>of</strong> boxes, mats, and pillows. Infront <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> poojD and mainmast was a little thatched house ondeck, about four feet high to <strong>the</strong> ridge ;and one compai'tment<strong>of</strong> tliis, forming a cabin six and a half feet long by live and ahalf wide, I had all to myself, and it was <strong>the</strong> snuggest and mostcomfortable little place I ever enjoyed at sea. It was enteredby a low sliding door <strong>of</strong> thatch on one side, and had a very smallwindow on <strong>the</strong> otiier. <strong>The</strong> floor Avas <strong>of</strong> split bamboo, pleasantlyelastic, raised six inches above <strong>the</strong> deck, so as to be quite dry.It was covered with fine cane mats, for <strong>the</strong> manufacture <strong>of</strong> whichMacassar is celebrated ;against <strong>the</strong> fur<strong>the</strong>r Avail Avere arrangedmy gun-case, insect-boxes, clo<strong>the</strong>s, and books ; my mattress