The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
;282 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.is very common even before they are weaned. Cocoa-nuts,sweet potatoes, an occasional sago cake, and the refuse nut afterthe oil has been extracted by boiling, form the chief sustenanceof these people ; and the effect of tlais poor and unwholesomediet is seen in the fi'equency of eruptions and scurvy skindiseases, and the numerous sores that disfigure the faces of thechildren.The \allages are situated on high and rugged coral peaks, onlyaccessible by steep narrow paths, with ladders and bridges overyawning chasms. They are fiJthy with rotten husks and oilrefuse, and the huts are dark, greasy, and dirty in the extreme.The people are wretched, ugly, dirty savages, clothed in unchangedrags, and living in the most miserable manner ; and asevery drop of fresh water has to be brought up from the beach,washing is never thought of ;yet they are actually wealthy, andliave the means of purchasing all the necessaries and luxui'ies oflife. Fowls are abundant, and eggs were given me wlienever I^^sited the villages, but these are never eaten, being looked uponas pets or as merchandise. Almost all of the women wearmassive gold earrings, and in every village there are dozens ofsmall bronze cannon lying about on the ground, although theyhave cost on the average perliaps 10/. apiece. The chief men ofeach village came to AT.sit me, clothed in robes of silk andflowered satin, though their houses and their daily fare are nobetter than those of tlie other inliabitants. What a contrastbetween these people and such savages as the best tribes of hillDyaks in Borneo, or the Indians of the Uaupes in SouthAmerica, liAdng on the banks of clear streams, clean in theirpersons and their houses, wdth abundance of wholesome food,and exhibiting its effect in healthy skins and beauty of formand feature ! There is in fact almost as mucli difference betweenthe various races of savage as of civilized peoples, and we maysafely afiirm that the better specimens of the former are muclasuperior to the lower examples of the latter class.One of the few luxuries of Matabello is the palm wine, whichis the fermented sap from the flower stems of the cocoa-nut. Itis really a very nice drink, more like cider than beer, thoughquite as intoxicating as the latter. Young cocoa-nuts are alsovery abundant, so that anywhere in the island it is only necessaryto go a few yards to find a delicious beverage by climbingup a tree for it. It is the water of the young fruit that is drunkbefore the pulp has hardened ; it is then more abundant, clear,and refresliing, and the thin coating of gelatinous pulp isthought a great luxury. The water of full-grown cocoa-nuts isalways thrown away as undrinkable, although it is delicious incomparison with that of the old dry nuts which alone we obtainin this country. The cocoa-nut pulp I did not like at firstbut fruits are so scarce, except at jDarticular seasons, that onesoon learns to appreciate anything of a fruity nature.Many persons in Europe are under the impression that fruits
XXV.] CERAM, GORAM, AND THE MATABELLO ISLANDS. 283of delicious flavour abound in the tropical forests, and they willno doubt be surprised to learn that the truly wild fruits of thisgrand and luxuriant archipelago, the vegetation of which willvie with that of any part of tlie world, are in almost everyisland inferior in abundance and quality to those of Britain.Wild strawberries and raspberries are found in some places, butthey are such poor tasteless things as to be hardly worth eating,and there is notliing to compare with our blackberries andwhortleberries. The kanary-nut may be considered equal to ahazel-nut, but I have met with nothing else superior to our crabs,our haws, beech-nuts, wild plums, and acorns ; fruits whichwould be highly esteemed by the natives of these islands, andwould form an important jDart of their sustenance. All the finetropical fi-uits are as much cultivated productions as our apples,peaches, and plums, and their wild prototypes, when found, aregenerally either tasteless or uneatable.The people of Matabello, like those of most of the Mahometanvillages of East Ceram and Goi^am, amused me much by theirstrange ideas concerning the Russian war. They believe tliatthe Russians were not only most thoroughly beaten by theTurks, but were absolutely conquered, and all converted toIslamism ! And they can hardly be convinced that such is notthe case, and that had it not been for the assistance of Franceand England, the poor Sultan would liave fared ill. Another oftheir notions is, that the Turks are the largest and strongestpeople in the world—in fact a race of giants ; that they eatenormous quantities of meat, and are a most ferocious and irresistiblenation. Whence such strangely incorrect opinions couldhave arisen it is difficult to understand, unless they are derivedfrom Arab priests, or had j is returned fi^om Mecca, who may liaveheard of the ancient i^rowess of the Turkish armies when theymade all Europe tremble, and suppose that their character andwarlike capacity must be the same at the present time.GORAM.A steady south-east wind having set in, we returned toManowolko on the 25th of April, and the day after crossed overto Ondor, the chief village of Goram.Around this island extends, with few interruptions, anencircling coral reef about a quarter of a mile from the shore,visible as a stripe of jDale green water, but only at very lowestebb-tides showing any rock above the surface. There areseveral deep entrances through this reef, and inside it there isgood auchoi'age in all weathers. The land rises graduallyto a moderate height, and numerous small streams descend onall sides. The mere existence of these streams would provethat the island was not entirely coralline, as in tliat case allthe water would sink through the porous rock as it does atManowolko and Matabello ; but we have more positive proof in
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XXV.] CERAM, GORAM, AND THE MATABELLO ISLANDS. 283<strong>of</strong> delicious flavour abound in <strong>the</strong> tropical forests, and <strong>the</strong>y willno doubt be surprised to learn that <strong>the</strong> truly wild fruits <strong>of</strong> thisgrand and luxuriant <strong>archipelago</strong>, <strong>the</strong> vegetation <strong>of</strong> which willvie with that <strong>of</strong> any part <strong>of</strong> tlie world, are in almost everyis<strong>land</strong> inferior in abundance and quality to those <strong>of</strong> Britain.Wild strawberries and raspberries are found in some places, but<strong>the</strong>y are such poor tasteless things as to be hardly worth eating,and <strong>the</strong>re is notliing to compare with our blackberries andwhortleberries. <strong>The</strong> kanary-nut may be considered equal to ahazel-nut, but I have met with nothing else superior to our crabs,our haws, beech-nuts, wild plums, and acorns ; fruits whichwould be highly esteemed by <strong>the</strong> natives <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se is<strong>land</strong>s, andwould form an important jDart <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir sustenance. All <strong>the</strong> finetropical fi-uits are as much cultivated productions as our apples,peaches, and plums, and <strong>the</strong>ir wild prototypes, when found, aregenerally ei<strong>the</strong>r tasteless or uneatable.<strong>The</strong> people <strong>of</strong> Matabello, like those <strong>of</strong> most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Mahometanvillages <strong>of</strong> East Ceram and Goi^am, amused me much by <strong>the</strong>irstrange ideas concerning <strong>the</strong> Russian war. <strong>The</strong>y believe tliat<strong>the</strong> Russians were not only most thoroughly beaten by <strong>the</strong>Turks, but were absolutely conquered, and all converted toIslamism ! And <strong>the</strong>y can hardly be convinced that such is not<strong>the</strong> case, and that had it not been for <strong>the</strong> assistance <strong>of</strong> Franceand Eng<strong>land</strong>, <strong>the</strong> poor Sultan would liave fared ill. Ano<strong>the</strong>r <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong>ir notions is, that <strong>the</strong> Turks are <strong>the</strong> largest and strongestpeople in <strong>the</strong> world—in fact a race <strong>of</strong> giants ; that <strong>the</strong>y eatenormous quantities <strong>of</strong> meat, and are a most ferocious and irresistiblenation. Whence such strangely incorrect opinions couldhave arisen it is difficult to understand, unless <strong>the</strong>y are derivedfrom Arab priests, or had j is returned fi^om Mecca, who may liaveheard <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancient i^rowess <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Turkish armies when <strong>the</strong>ymade all Europe tremble, and suppose that <strong>the</strong>ir character andwarlike capacity must be <strong>the</strong> same at <strong>the</strong> present time.GORAM.A steady south-east wind having set in, we returned toManowolko on <strong>the</strong> 25th <strong>of</strong> April, and <strong>the</strong> day after crossed overto Ondor, <strong>the</strong> chief village <strong>of</strong> Goram.Around this is<strong>land</strong> extends, with few interruptions, anencircling coral reef about a quarter <strong>of</strong> a mile from <strong>the</strong> shore,visible as a stripe <strong>of</strong> jDale green water, but only at very lowestebb-tides showing any rock above <strong>the</strong> surface. <strong>The</strong>re areseveral deep entrances through this reef, and inside it <strong>the</strong>re isgood auchoi'age in all wea<strong>the</strong>rs. <strong>The</strong> <strong>land</strong> rises graduallyto a moderate height, and numerous small streams descend onall sides. <strong>The</strong> mere existence <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se streams would provethat <strong>the</strong> is<strong>land</strong> was not entirely coralline, as in tliat case all<strong>the</strong> water would sink through <strong>the</strong> porous rock as it does atManowolko and Matabello ; but we have more positive pro<strong>of</strong> in