The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

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270 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.verted to Christianity. In the larger villages there are Europeanmissionaries ; but there is little or no external difference betweenthe Christian and Alfuro villages, noi% as far as I have seen, intheir inhabitants. The people seem more decidedly Papuanthan those of Gilolo. They are darker in colour, and a numberof them have the frizzly Papuan hair ;their features also areliarsh and prominent, and the women in particular are far lessengaging than those of tlie Malay race. Captain Van der Beckwas never tired of abusing the inhabitants of these Christianvillages as thieves, liars, and drunkards, besides being incorrigiblylazy. In the city of Amboyna my friends DoctorsMohnike and Doleschall, as well as most of the European residentsand traders, made exactly the same complaint, and wouldrather have Mahometans for servants, even if convicts, thanany of the native Christians. One great cause of this is the factthat with the Mahometans temperance is a part of their religion,and has become so much a habit that practically the rule isnever transgressed. One fertile source of want, and one greatincentive to idleness and crime, is thus present with tlie oneclass, but absent in the other ; but besides this the Cliristianslook upon themselves as nearly the equals of the Europeans,who profess the same religion, and as far sviperior to thefollowers of Islam, and ai^e therefore prone to despise work, andto endeavour to live by trade, or by cultivating their own land.It need hardly be said that witli people in this low state ofcivilization religion is almost wholly ceremonial, and that neitherare the doctrines of Christianity comprehended, nor its moralprecepts obeyed. At the same time, as far as my own experiencegoes, I have found the better class of " Orang Sirani'"' as civil,obliging, and industrious as the ]\Ialays, and only inferior tothem from their tendency to get intoxicated.Having written to the Assistant Resident of Saparna (whohas jurisdiction over the opposite part of the coast of Coram)for a boat to pursue my journey, I received one rather largerthan necessary with a crew of twenty men. I therefore badeadieu to my kind friend Captain Van der Beck, and left on theevening after its arrival for the village of Elpij^uti, which wereached in two days. I had intended to stay here, but not likingthe appearance of the place, which seemed to have no virginforest near it, I determined to proceed about twelve miles furtherup the bay of Amahay, to a village recently foi'med, and inhabitedby indigenes from the interior, and where some extensivecacao plantations were being made by some gentlemenof Amboyna. I reached the place (called Awaiya) the sameafternoon, and with the assistance of Mr. Peters (the managerof the j^lantations) and the native chief, obtained a small house,got all my things on shore, and paid and discharged my twentyboatmen, two of whom had almost driven me to distraction bybeating tom-toms the whole voyage.I found the people here very nearly in a state of nature, and

XXV.] CERAM, GORAM, AN'D THE MATABELLO ISLANDS. 271going almost naked. The men wear their frizzly hair gatheredinto a flat circular knot over the left temple, which has a veryknowing look, and in their ears cylinders of wood as thick asone's finger, and coloured x-ed at the ends. Armlets and ankletsof woven grass or of _ silver, with necklaces of beads or of smallfruits, complete their attire. The women wear similar ornaments,but have their hair loose. All are tall, with a darkbrown skin, and well marked Papuan physiognomy. There isan Amboyna sclioolmaster in the village, and a good number ofchildren attend school every morning.Such of the inliabitantsas have become Christians may be known by their weainng theirliair loose, and adopting to some extent the native Christiandress—trousers and a loose shirt. Yery few speak Malay, allthese coast villages having been recently formed by inducingnatives to leave the inaccessible interior. In all the central partof Cei-apa there now remains only one populous village in themountains. Towards the east and the extreme west are a fewothers, with which exceptions all the inhabitants of Ceram arecollected on the coast. In the northern and eastern districtstliey are mostly Mahometans, while on the south-west coast,nearest Amboyna, they are nominal Christians.In all this part of the Archipelago, the Dutch make verypraiseworthy efforts to improve the condition of the aboriginesby establishing schoolmasters in every village (wlio are mostlynatives of Amboyna or SajDarua, who have been instructed bythe resident missionaries), and by employing native vaccinatorsto prevent the ravages of smallpox. They also encourage thesettlement of Europeans, and the formation of new plantationsof cacao and coffee, one of the best means of raising the conditionof the natives, who thus obtain work at fair wages, andhave the opportunity of acquiring something of Europeantastes and habits.My collections here did not progress much better than at myformer station, except that butterflies were a little more plentiful,and some very fine species were to be found in tlie morningon the sea-beach, sitting so quietly on the wet sand that tlieycould be caught with the fingers. In this way I had many finespecimens of Papilios brought me by tiie children. Beetles,however, were scarce, and birds still more so, and I began tothink that the handsome species which I liad so often heardwere found in Ceram must be entirely confined to the easternextremity of the island.A few miles further north, at the head of tlie Bay of Amahay,is situated the village of Makariki, from whence there is anative path quite across the island to the north coast. Myfriend, Mr. Rosenberg, whose acquaintance I liad made at NewGuinea, and who was now the Government superintendent of allthis part of Ceram, returned from Wahai, on the nortli coast,after I had been three weeks at Awaiya, and showed me somefine butterflies he had obtained on the' mountain streams in the

270 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.verted to Christianity. In <strong>the</strong> larger villages <strong>the</strong>re are Europeanmissionaries ; but <strong>the</strong>re is little or no external difference between<strong>the</strong> Christian and Alfuro villages, noi% as far as I have seen, in<strong>the</strong>ir inhabitants. <strong>The</strong> people seem more decidedly Papuanthan those <strong>of</strong> Gilolo. <strong>The</strong>y are darker in colour, and a number<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m have <strong>the</strong> frizzly Papuan hair ;<strong>the</strong>ir features also areliarsh and prominent, and <strong>the</strong> women in particular are far lessengaging than those <strong>of</strong> tlie <strong>Malay</strong> race. Captain Van der Beckwas never tired <strong>of</strong> abusing <strong>the</strong> inhabitants <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se Christianvillages as thieves, liars, and drunkards, besides being incorrigiblylazy. In <strong>the</strong> city <strong>of</strong> Amboyna my friends DoctorsMohnike and Doleschall, as well as most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> European residentsand traders, made exactly <strong>the</strong> same complaint, and wouldra<strong>the</strong>r have Mahometans for servants, even if convicts, thanany <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> native Christians. One great cause <strong>of</strong> this is <strong>the</strong> factthat with <strong>the</strong> Mahometans temperance is a part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir religion,and has become so much a habit that practically <strong>the</strong> rule isnever transgressed. One fertile source <strong>of</strong> want, and one greatincentive to idleness and crime, is thus present with tlie oneclass, but absent in <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r ; but besides this <strong>the</strong> Cliristianslook upon <strong>the</strong>mselves as nearly <strong>the</strong> equals <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Europeans,who pr<strong>of</strong>ess <strong>the</strong> same religion, and as far sviperior to <strong>the</strong>followers <strong>of</strong> Islam, and ai^e <strong>the</strong>refore prone to despise work, andto endeavour to live by trade, or by cultivating <strong>the</strong>ir own <strong>land</strong>.It need hardly be said that witli people in this low state <strong>of</strong>civilization religion is almost wholly ceremonial, and that nei<strong>the</strong>rare <strong>the</strong> doctrines <strong>of</strong> Christianity comprehended, nor its moralprecepts obeyed. At <strong>the</strong> same time, as far as my own experiencegoes, I have found <strong>the</strong> better class <strong>of</strong> " Orang Sirani'"' as civil,obliging, and industrious as <strong>the</strong> ]\Ialays, and only inferior to<strong>the</strong>m from <strong>the</strong>ir tendency to get intoxicated.Having written to <strong>the</strong> Assistant Resident <strong>of</strong> Saparna (whohas jurisdiction over <strong>the</strong> opposite part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> coast <strong>of</strong> Coram)for a boat to pursue my journey, I received one ra<strong>the</strong>r largerthan necessary with a crew <strong>of</strong> twenty men. I <strong>the</strong>refore badeadieu to my kind friend Captain Van der Beck, and left on <strong>the</strong>evening after its arrival for <strong>the</strong> village <strong>of</strong> Elpij^uti, which wereached in two days. I had intended to stay here, but not liking<strong>the</strong> appearance <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> place, which seemed to have no virginforest near it, I determined to proceed about twelve miles fur<strong>the</strong>rup <strong>the</strong> bay <strong>of</strong> Amahay, to a village recently foi'med, and inhabitedby indigenes from <strong>the</strong> interior, and where some extensivecacao plantations were being made by some gentlemen<strong>of</strong> Amboyna. I reached <strong>the</strong> place (called Awaiya) <strong>the</strong> sameafternoon, and with <strong>the</strong> assistance <strong>of</strong> Mr. Peters (<strong>the</strong> manager<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> j^lantations) and <strong>the</strong> native chief, obtained a small house,got all my things on shore, and paid and discharged my twentyboatmen, two <strong>of</strong> whom had almost driven me to distraction bybeating tom-toms <strong>the</strong> whole voyage.I found <strong>the</strong> people here very nearly in a state <strong>of</strong> nature, and

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