The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
'260 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.it was not till the 21st of March that we got away. Early nextmorning we entered the little river, and in about an hour wereached the Sultan's house, which I had obtained permission touse. It was situated on the bank of the river, and surroundedby a forest of fruit trees, among which were some of the veryloftiest and most graceful cocoa-nut palms I have ever seen.It rained nearly all tliat day, and I could do little but unloadand unpack. Towards the afternoon it cleared up, and I attemptedto explore in various directions, but found to my disgustthat the only path was a perfect mud swamp, along which itwas almost impossible to walk, and the surrounding forest sodamp and dark as to promise little in the way of insects. Ifound too on inquiry that the people here made no clearings,living entirely on sago, fruit, fish, and game ; and the path onlyled to a steep rocky mountain equally impractical^le and unproductive.The next day I sent my men to this hill, hoping itmight produce some good birds ; but they returned with onlytwo common species, and I myself had been able to get nothing,every little track I had attempted to follow leading to a densesago swamp. I saw that I should waste time by staying here,and determined to leave the following day.This is one of those spots so hard for the European naturalistto conceive, where with all the riches of a tropical vegetation,and partly perhaps from the very luxuriance of that vegetation,insects are as scarce as in the most barren jDarts of Europe, andhardly more conspicuous. In temperate climates there is atolerable uniformity in the distribution of_insects over thoseparts of a country in which there is a similarity in the vegetation,any deficiency being easily accounted for by the absenceof wood or uniformity of surface. The traveller hastily passingthrough such a country can at once pick out a collecting groundwhich will afford him a fair notion of its entomology. Here thecase is different. There are certain requisites of a good collectingground which can only be ascertained to exist by some days'search in the vicinity of each village. In some places there is novirgin forest, as at Djilolo and Sahoe ;in others there are noopen pathways or clearings, as here. At Batchian tliere areonly two tolerable collecting places,—the road to the coal mines,and the new clearings made by the TomOre people, the latterIjeing by far the most productive. I believe the fact to be thatinsects are pretty uniformly distributed over these countries(where the forests have not been cleared away), and are soscarce in any one spot that searching for them is almost useless.If tlie forest is all cleared away, almost all the insects disappearwith it ; but when small clearings and paths are made, the fallentrees in various stages of drying and decay, tlie rotting leaves,the loosening bark and the fungoid growths upon it, togetherwith the flowers that appear in much greater abundance wherethe light is admitted, are so many attractions to the insects formiles around, and cause a wonderful accumulation of species and
XXIV.] BATCHIAN. 261individuals. When the entomologist can discover such a spot,he does more in a month than he could possibly do by a year'ssearch in the deptlis of the undistui'bed forest.The next morning we left early, and reached the_mouth of thelittle river in about an hour. It flows through a perfectly flatallu%dal jDlain, but there are hills which approach it near themouth. Towards the lower part, in a swamij where the saltwatermust enter at high tides, were a number of elegant treefernsfrom eight to fifteen feet high. These are generally consideredto be mountain plants, and rarely to occur on the equatorat an elevation of less than one or two thousand feet. In Borneo,in the Aru Islands, and on the banks of the Amazon, I have observedthem at the level of the sea, and think it probable thatthe altitude supposed to be requisite for them may have beendeduced from facts observed in countries where the plains andlowlands are largely cultivated, and most of the indigenousvegetation destroyed. Such is the case in most parts of Java,India, Jamaica, and Brazil, where the vegetation of the tropicshas been most fully explored.Coming out to sea we turned northwards, and in about twohours' sail reached a few huts, called Langundi, where someGalela men had established themselves as collectors of gumdammar,with which they made torches for the supply of theTernate market. About a hundi'ed yards back rises a rathersteep hill, and a short walk having shown me that there was atolerable path up it, I determined to stay here for a few days.Opposite us, and all along this coast of Batchian, stretches arow of fine islands completely uninhabited. Whenever I askedthe reason why no one goes to live in them, the answer alwayswas, " For fear of the Slagindano pirates." Every year thesescourges of the Archipelago wander in one direction or another,making their rendezvous on some uninhabited island, and carryingdevastation to all the small settlements around ; robbing,destroying, killing, or taking captive all they meet with. Theirlong well-manned praus escape from the pursuit of any sailingvessel by pulling away right in the wind's eye, and the warningsmoke of a steamer generally enables them to hide in someshallow bay, or narrow river, or forest-covered inlet, till thedanger is passed. The only eftectual way to put a stop to theirdepredations would be to attack them in their strongholds andvillages, and compel them to give up piracy, and submit tostrict surveillance. Sir James Brooke did this with the piratesof the north-west coast of Borneo, and deserves the tiiauks ofthe whole population of the Archipelago for having rid them ofhalf their enemies.All along the beach here, and in the adjacent strip of sandylowland, is a remarkable display of Pandanacete or Screw-pines.Some are like huge branching candelabra, forty or fifty feet high,and bearing at the end of each branch a tuft of immense swordshapedleaves, six or eight inches wide, and as many feet long.
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XXIV.] BATCHIAN. 261individuals. When <strong>the</strong> entomologist can discover such a spot,he does more in a month than he could possibly do by a year'ssearch in <strong>the</strong> deptlis <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> undistui'bed forest.<strong>The</strong> next morning we left early, and reached <strong>the</strong>_mouth <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>little river in about an hour. It flows through a perfectly flatallu%dal jDlain, but <strong>the</strong>re are hills which approach it near <strong>the</strong>mouth. Towards <strong>the</strong> lower part, in a swamij where <strong>the</strong> saltwatermust enter at high tides, were a number <strong>of</strong> elegant treefernsfrom eight to fifteen feet high. <strong>The</strong>se are generally consideredto be mountain plants, and rarely to occur on <strong>the</strong> equatorat an elevation <strong>of</strong> less than one or two thousand feet. In Borneo,in <strong>the</strong> Aru Is<strong>land</strong>s, and on <strong>the</strong> banks <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Amazon, I have observed<strong>the</strong>m at <strong>the</strong> level <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea, and think it probable that<strong>the</strong> altitude supposed to be requisite for <strong>the</strong>m may have beendeduced from facts observed in countries where <strong>the</strong> plains andlow<strong>land</strong>s are largely cultivated, and most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> indigenousvegetation destroyed. Such is <strong>the</strong> case in most parts <strong>of</strong> Java,India, Jamaica, and Brazil, where <strong>the</strong> vegetation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tropicshas been most fully explored.Coming out to sea we turned northwards, and in about twohours' sail reached a few huts, called Langundi, where someGalela men had established <strong>the</strong>mselves as collectors <strong>of</strong> gumdammar,with which <strong>the</strong>y made torches for <strong>the</strong> supply <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>Ternate market. About a hundi'ed yards back rises a ra<strong>the</strong>rsteep hill, and a short walk having shown me that <strong>the</strong>re was atolerable path up it, I determined to stay here for a few days.Opposite us, and all along this coast <strong>of</strong> Batchian, stretches arow <strong>of</strong> fine is<strong>land</strong>s completely uninhabited. Whenever I asked<strong>the</strong> reason why no one goes to live in <strong>the</strong>m, <strong>the</strong> answer alwayswas, " For fear <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Slagindano pirates." Every year <strong>the</strong>sescourges <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Archipelago wander in one direction or ano<strong>the</strong>r,making <strong>the</strong>ir rendezvous on some uninhabited is<strong>land</strong>, and carryingdevastation to all <strong>the</strong> small settlements around ; robbing,destroying, killing, or taking captive all <strong>the</strong>y meet with. <strong>The</strong>irlong well-manned praus escape from <strong>the</strong> pursuit <strong>of</strong> any sailingvessel by pulling away right in <strong>the</strong> wind's eye, and <strong>the</strong> warningsmoke <strong>of</strong> a steamer generally enables <strong>the</strong>m to hide in someshallow bay, or narrow river, or forest-covered inlet, till <strong>the</strong>danger is passed. <strong>The</strong> only eftectual way to put a stop to <strong>the</strong>irdepredations would be to attack <strong>the</strong>m in <strong>the</strong>ir strongholds andvillages, and compel <strong>the</strong>m to give up piracy, and submit tostrict surveillance. Sir James Brooke did this with <strong>the</strong> pirates<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> north-west coast <strong>of</strong> Borneo, and deserves <strong>the</strong> tiiauks <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> whole population <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Archipelago for having rid <strong>the</strong>m <strong>of</strong>half <strong>the</strong>ir enemies.All along <strong>the</strong> beach here, and in <strong>the</strong> adjacent strip <strong>of</strong> sandylow<strong>land</strong>, is a remarkable display <strong>of</strong> Pandanacete or Screw-pines.Some are like huge branching candelabra, forty or fifty feet high,and bearing at <strong>the</strong> end <strong>of</strong> each branch a tuft <strong>of</strong> immense swordshapedleaves, six or eight inches wide, and as many feet long.