The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
238 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.Bandation, the Dutch were not altogether fortunate or wise.was chosen for nutmegs, and was eminently successful, since itcontinues to this day to produce a lai'ge supj^ly of this spice, andto yield a considerable revenue. Amboyna was fixed upon forestablishing the clove cultivation ; but the soil and climate,although apparently ^very similar to those of its native island.s,are not favourable, and for some years the Government haveactually been paying to the cultivators a higher rate than theycould purchase cloves for elsewhere, owing to a great fall in theprice since the rate of payment was fixed for a term of years bythe Dutch Government, and w^hich rate is still most honourablypaid.In walking about the suburbs of Ternate, we find everywherethe ruins of massive stone and brick buildings, gateways andarches, showing at once the sujDerior wealth of the ancient townand tlie destructive effects of earthquakes. It was during mysecond stay in the town, after my return from New Guinea, thatI first felt an earthquake. It was a very slight one, scarcelymore than has been felt in this country, but occurring in a placethat had been many times destroyed by them it was rather moreexciting. I had just awoke at gun-fire (5 a.m.), when suddenlythe thatch began to rustle and shake as if an army of cats weregalloping over it, and immediately afterwards my bed shook too,.so that for an instant I imagined myself back in New Guinea,in my fragile house, wdiich shook when an old cock went toroost on tlie ridge ;but remembering that I was now on a solidearthen floor, I said to myself, " Why, it's an earthquake," andlay still in the pleasing expectation of another shock ; butnone came, and this was the only earthquake I ever felt inTernate.The last great one was in February 1840, when almost everyhouse in the place was destroyed. It began about midnight onthe Chinese New Year's festival, at which time every one staysup nearly all night feasting at the Chinamen's houses and seeingthe processions. This prevented any lives being lost, as everyone ran out of doors at tlie first shock, which was not very severe.The second, a few minutes afterwards, threw down a great manyhouses, and others, which continued all night and part of thenext day, completed the devastation. The line of distui'bancewas very narrow, so that the native town a mile to the eastscarcely suffered at all. The wave passed from north to south,through the islands of Tidore and Makian, and terminated inBatchian, where it was not felt till four the following afternoon,thus taking no less than sixteen hours to travel a hundredmiles, or about six miles an liour. It is singular that on thisoccasion there was no rushing up of the tide, or other commotionof the sea, as is usually the case during great earthquakes.The people of Ternate are of three well-marked races : theTernate Malays, the Orang Sirani, and the Dutch. The first
XXI .]THE MOLUCCAS—TER^TATE. 239are an intrusive Malay race somewhat allied to the MacassarjDeople, who settled in the country at a very early epoch, droveout the indigenes, who were no doubt the same as tliose of theadjacent mainland of Gilolo, and established a monarcliy. TheyperhajDS obtained many of their wives from the natives, whichwill account for the extraordinary language tliey speak—insome respects closely allied to that of the natives of Gilolo,while it contains much that points to a Malaj^an origin. Tomost of these people the Malay language is quite unintelligible,although such as are engaged in trade are obliged to acquire it." Orang Sirani," or Nazarenes, is the name given by the ]\Ialaysto the Christian descendants of the Portuguese, who resemblethose of Amboyna, and, like them, speak only Malay. Thereare also a number of Chinese merchants, many of them nativesof the place, a few Arabs, and a number of half-breeds betweenall these races and native women. Besides these there are somePapuan slaves, and a few natives of other islands settled here,making up a motley and very puzzling population, till inquiryand observation have shown the distinct origin of its componentparts.Soon after my first arrival in Ternate I went to the island ofGilolo, accompanied by two sons of Mr. Duivenboden, and by ayoung Chinaman, a brother of my landlord, who lent us tlieboat and crew. These latter were all slaves, mostly Papuans,and at starting I saw something of the relation of master andslave in this part of the world. The crew had been ordered tobe ready at three in the morning, instead of which none appearedtill five, we having all been kept waiting in the darkand cold for two hours. When at length they came thej" werescolded by their master, but only in a bantering manner, andlaughed and joked with him in i-eply. Then, just as we werestarting, one of the strongest men refused to go at all, and hismaster had to beg and persuade him to go, and only succeededby assuring him that I would give him something ;so with thispromise, and knowing that there would be plenty to eat anddrink and little to do, the black gentleman was induced tofavour us with his company and assistance. In three hours'rowing and sailing we reached our destination, Sedingole, wherethere is a house belonging to the Sultan of Tidore, who sometimesgoes there hunting. It was a dirty ruinous shed, with nofurniture but a few bamboo bedsteads. On taking a walk intothe country, I saw at once that it was no place for me. Formany miles extends a plain covered with coarse high grass,thickly dotted here and there with trees, the forest countryonly commencing at the hills a good way in the interior. Sucha place would produce few birds and no insects, and we tliereforearranged to stay only two days, and then go on to Dodinga,at the narrow central isthmus of Gilolo, whence my friendswould return to Ternate. We amused ourselves shootingparrots, lories, and pigeons, and trjnng to slioot deer, of wliich
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238 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.Bandation, <strong>the</strong> Dutch were not altoge<strong>the</strong>r fortunate or wise.was chosen for nutmegs, and was eminently successful, since itcontinues to this day to produce a lai'ge supj^ly <strong>of</strong> this spice, andto yield a considerable revenue. Amboyna was fixed upon forestablishing <strong>the</strong> clove cultivation ; but <strong>the</strong> soil and climate,although apparently ^very similar to those <strong>of</strong> its native is<strong>land</strong>.s,are not favourable, and for some years <strong>the</strong> Government haveactually been paying to <strong>the</strong> cultivators a higher rate than <strong>the</strong>ycould purchase cloves for elsewhere, owing to a great fall in <strong>the</strong>price since <strong>the</strong> rate <strong>of</strong> payment was fixed for a term <strong>of</strong> years by<strong>the</strong> Dutch Government, and w^hich rate is still most honourablypaid.In walking about <strong>the</strong> suburbs <strong>of</strong> Ternate, we find everywhere<strong>the</strong> ruins <strong>of</strong> massive stone and brick buildings, gateways andarches, showing at once <strong>the</strong> sujDerior wealth <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancient townand tlie destructive effects <strong>of</strong> earthquakes. It was during mysecond stay in <strong>the</strong> town, after my return from New Guinea, thatI first felt an earthquake. It was a very slight one, scarcelymore than has been felt in this country, but occurring in a placethat had been many times destroyed by <strong>the</strong>m it was ra<strong>the</strong>r moreexciting. I had just awoke at gun-fire (5 a.m.), when suddenly<strong>the</strong> thatch began to rustle and shake as if an army <strong>of</strong> cats weregalloping over it, and immediately afterwards my bed shook too,.so that for an instant I imagined myself back in New Guinea,in my fragile house, wdiich shook when an old cock went toroost on tlie ridge ;but remembering that I was now on a solidear<strong>the</strong>n floor, I said to myself, " Why, it's an earthquake," andlay still in <strong>the</strong> pleasing expectation <strong>of</strong> ano<strong>the</strong>r shock ; butnone came, and this was <strong>the</strong> only earthquake I ever felt inTernate.<strong>The</strong> last great one was in February 1840, when almost everyhouse in <strong>the</strong> place was destroyed. It began about midnight on<strong>the</strong> Chinese New Year's festival, at which time every one staysup nearly all night feasting at <strong>the</strong> Chinamen's houses and seeing<strong>the</strong> processions. This prevented any lives being lost, as everyone ran out <strong>of</strong> doors at tlie first shock, which was not very severe.<strong>The</strong> second, a few minutes afterwards, threw down a great manyhouses, and o<strong>the</strong>rs, which continued all night and part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>next day, completed <strong>the</strong> devastation. <strong>The</strong> line <strong>of</strong> distui'bancewas very narrow, so that <strong>the</strong> native town a mile to <strong>the</strong> eastscarcely suffered at all. <strong>The</strong> wave passed from north to south,through <strong>the</strong> is<strong>land</strong>s <strong>of</strong> Tidore and Makian, and terminated inBatchian, where it was not felt till four <strong>the</strong> following afternoon,thus taking no less than sixteen hours to travel a hundredmiles, or about six miles an liour. It is singular that on thisoccasion <strong>the</strong>re was no rushing up <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tide, or o<strong>the</strong>r commotion<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea, as is usually <strong>the</strong> case during great earthquakes.<strong>The</strong> people <strong>of</strong> Ternate are <strong>of</strong> three well-marked races : <strong>the</strong>Ternate <strong>Malay</strong>s, <strong>the</strong> Orang Sirani, and <strong>the</strong> Dutch. <strong>The</strong> first