The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

XIX.] BANDA. 219CHAPTER XIX.BAKDA.(DECEMBER 1857, MAY 1859, APRIL 1861.)The Dutch mail steamer in which I travelled from ^Macassarto Banda and Amboyna was a roomy ajid comfortable vessel,although it would only go six miles an hour in the finest weather.As there were but three passengers besides myself, we had abundanceof room, and I was able to enjoy a voyage more than I hadever done before. The arrangements are somewhat differentfrom those on board English or Indian steamers. There are nocabin servants, as every cabin passenger invariably brings hisown, and the ship's stewards attend only to the saloon and tlieeating department. At six a.m. a cup of tea or cofiee is providedfor those who like it. At seven to eight there is a light breakfastof tea, eggs, sardines, &c. At ten, Madeira, gin, and bitters arebrought on deck as a whet for the substantial eleven o'clockbreakfast, which differs from a dinner only in the absence ofsoup. Cups of tea and coffee are brought round at three p.m. ;bitters, &c, again at five ; a good dinner with beer and claret athalf-past six, concluded by tea and coffee at eight. Betweenwhiles, beer and sodawater are supplied when called for, so thereis no lack of little gastronomical excitements to while away thetedium of a sea voyage.Our first stopping place was Coupang, at the west end of thelarge island of Timor. We then coasted along that island forseveral hundred miles, ha^^ng always a view of hilly rangescovered with scanty vegetation, rising ridge behind ridge to theheight of six or seven thousand feet. Turning off towardsBanda we passed Pulo-Cambmg, Wetter, and Roma, all of whichare desolate and barren volcanic islands, almost as uninviting asAden, and offering a strange contrast to the usual verdure andluxuriance of the Archipelago. In two days more we reachedthe volcanic group of Banda, covered with an unusually denseand brilliant green vegetation, indicating that we had passedbeyond the range of the hot dry winds from the plains of CentralAustralia. Banda is a lovely little spot, its three islands enclosinga secure harbour from whence no outlet is visible, andwith water so transparent, that living corals and e\en theminutest objects are plainly seen on the volcanic sand at adeiDth of seven or eight fathoms. The ever-smoking volcanorears its bare cone on one side, while the two larger islands areclothed with vegetation to the summit of the hills.Going on shore, I walked up a pretty path whicli leads to thehighest point of the island on which the town is situated, wherethere is a telegraph station and a magnificent view. Below lies