The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

198 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.is by the increase of the population alone that there can be anylarge and permanent increase in the produce of coffee. TlieMissionaries should take up the questioii, because, by inducingmarried women to confine themselves to domestic duties, theywill decidedly promote a higher civilization, and directly increasethe health and happiness of the whole community. Tlie peopleare so docile, and so willing to adopt the manners and customsof Europeans, that the cliange might be easily effected, by merelyshowing them that it was a question of morality and civilization,and an essential step in their progress towards an equality withtheir white rulers.After a fortnight's stay at Eurukan, I left that pretty andinteresting village in search of a locality and climate more productiveof birds and insects. I passed the evening with theControlleur of Tondano, and the next morning at nine left in asmall boat for the head of the lake, a distance of about tenmiles. The lower end of the lake is bordered by swamps andmarshes of considerable extent, but a little further on the hillscome down to the water's edge and give it very much theappearance of a great river, the width being about two miles.At the upper end is the village of Kakas, where I dined withthe head-man in a good house like those I have already described ;and then went on to Langowan, four miles distant over a levelplain. This was the i^lace where I had been recommended tostay, and I accordingly unpacked ray baggage and made myselfcomfortable in the large house devoted to visitors. I obtaineda man to shoot for me, and another to accompany roe the nextday to the forest, where I was in hopes of finding a good collectingground.In the morning after breakfast I started off, but found I hadfour miles to walk over a wearisome straight road throughcoffee plantations before I could get to the forest, and as soonas I did so it came on to rain heavily, and did not cease tillnight. This distance to walk every day was too far for anyprofitable work, especially when the weather was so uncertain.I tlierefore decided at once that I must go further on, till Ifound some place close to or in a forest country.In the afternoonmy friend ]\Ir. Bensneider arrived, together with theControlleur of the next district, called Belang, from whom Ilearnt that six miles furtlier on there was a village called Panglm,which had been recently formed and had a good deal of forestclose to it ; and he promised me the use of a small house if Iliked to go tliere.The next morning I went to see the hot springs and mudvolcanoes, for which this place is celebrated. A picturesquepath, among plantations and ravines, brought us to a beautifulcircular basin about foi'ty feet diameter, bordered by a calcareousledge, so uniform and truly curved that it looked like a work ofart. It was filled with clear water very near the boiling point,and emitting clouds of steam with a strong sulphureous odour.