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The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

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XVII.] CELEBES. 193came. Mo.st <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> inhabitants had not been to bed at all, andsome had stayed out <strong>of</strong> doors all night. For <strong>the</strong> next two daysand nights shocks still continued at short intervals, and severaltimes a day for a week, showing that <strong>the</strong>re was some very extensivedisturbance beneath our portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> earth's crust. Hov^vast <strong>the</strong> forces at work really are can only be propei-ly appreciatedwhen, after feeling <strong>the</strong>ir etfects, we look abroad over <strong>the</strong> wideexpanse <strong>of</strong> hill and valley, plain and mountain, and thus realizein a slight degree <strong>the</strong> immense mass <strong>of</strong> matter heaved and shaken,<strong>The</strong> sensation produced by an earthquake is never to be forgotten.We feel ourselves in <strong>the</strong> grasp <strong>of</strong> a power to which <strong>the</strong>wildest fury <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> winds and waves are as nothing ;yet <strong>the</strong>effect is more a thrill <strong>of</strong> awe than <strong>the</strong> terror which <strong>the</strong> moreboisterous war <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> elements loroduces. <strong>The</strong>re is a mysteryand an uncertainty as to <strong>the</strong> amount <strong>of</strong> danger we incur, whichgives greater play to <strong>the</strong> imagination, and to <strong>the</strong> influences <strong>of</strong>hope and fear. <strong>The</strong>se remarks apply only to a moderate earthquake.A severe one is <strong>the</strong> most destructive and <strong>the</strong> mosthorrible catastrophe to which human beings can be ex^Dosed.A few days after <strong>the</strong> earthquake I took a walk to Tondano, alarge village <strong>of</strong> about 7,000 inhabitants, situated at <strong>the</strong> lowerend <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lake <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same name. I dined with <strong>the</strong> Controlleur,Ml'. Bensneider, who had been my guide to Tomohdn. He hada fine large house, in which he <strong>of</strong>ten I'eceived visitors ; and hisgarden was <strong>the</strong> best for flowers which I had seen in <strong>the</strong> tropics,although <strong>the</strong>re was no great variety. It was he who introduced<strong>the</strong> rose hedges which give such a charming appearance to <strong>the</strong>villages ; and to him is chiefly due <strong>the</strong> general neatness andgood order that everywhei'e prevail. I consulted him about afresh locality, as I found Ruriikan too much in <strong>the</strong> clouds,dreadfully damp and gloomy, and ^vith a general stagnation <strong>of</strong>bird and insect life. He recommended me a village somedistance beyond <strong>the</strong> lake, near which was a large forest, wherehe thought I should find plenty <strong>of</strong> birds. As he was goinghimself in a few days I decided to accompany him.After dinner I asked him for a guide to <strong>the</strong> celebrated waterfallon <strong>the</strong> outlet stream <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lake. It is situated about amile and a half below <strong>the</strong> village, where a slight rising groundcloses in <strong>the</strong> basin, and evidently once formed <strong>the</strong> shore <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>lake. Here <strong>the</strong> river enters a gorge, very narrow and tortuous,along which it rushes furiously for a short distance and <strong>the</strong>nplunges into a great chasm, forming <strong>the</strong> head <strong>of</strong> a large valley.Just above <strong>the</strong> fall <strong>the</strong> channel is not more than ten feet ^vide,and here a few planks are thrown across, whence, half hid byluxuriant vegetation, <strong>the</strong> mad waters may be seen rushingbeneath, and a few feet far<strong>the</strong>r plunge into <strong>the</strong> abyss. Botlisight and sound are grand and impressive. It was here that,four years before my visit, a former Governor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Moluccascommitted suicide, by leaping into <strong>the</strong> torrent. This at least is<strong>the</strong> general opinion, as hesuftered from a painful disease whicho

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