The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

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190 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.Near the village are the coffee plantations. The trees areplanted in rows, and are kept topped to about seven feet high.Tliis causes the lateral branches to grow very strong, so thatsome of the trees become perfect hemispheres, loaded with fruitfrom top to bottom, and pi'oducing from ten to twenty poundseach of cleaned coffee annually. These plantations were allformed by the Government, and are cultivated by the villagersunder the direction of their chief. Certain days are apjDointedfor weeding or gathering, and the whole working populationare summoned by sound of gong. An account is kept of thenumber of hours work done by each family, and at the year'send the produce of the sale is divided among them proportionately.The coffee is taken to Government stores established atcentral places over the whole country, and is paid for at a lowfixed price. Out of this a certain percentage goes to the cliiefsand majors, and the remainder is divided among the inhabitants.This system works very well, and I believe is at present farbetter for the people than free-trade would be. There are alsolarge rice-fields, and in this little village of seventy houses Iwas informed that a hundred pounds worth of rice was soldannually.I had a small house at the very end of the village, almosthanging over tlie iDrecipitous .slope down to the stream, andwith a splendid view from the verandali. The thermometer inthe morning often stood at 62^ and never rose so high as 80°, sothat with the thin clothing used in the tropical plains we werealways cool and sometimes positively cold, while the spout ofwater where I went daily for my bath had quite an icy feel.Although I enjoyed myself very much among these fine mountainsand forests, T was somewhat disappointed as to my collections.There was hardly any jjerceptible difference betweenthe animal life in this temperate region and in the torrid plainsbelow, and what difference did exist was in most respects disadvantageousto me. There seemed to be nothing absolutelypeculiar to this elevation. Birds and quadrupeds were lessplentiful, but of the same species. In insects there seemed tobe more difference. The curious beetles of the family Cleridse,which are found chiefly on bark and rotten wood, were finerthan I have seen them elsewhere. The beautiful Longicornswere scarcer than usual, and the few butterflies were all oftropical species. One of these, Papilio blumei, of which I obtaineda few specimens only, is among the most magnificent Ihave ever seen. It is a green and gold swallow-tail, with azureblue.spoon-shaped tails, and was often seen flying about thevillage when the sun shone, but in a very shattered condition.The great amount of wet and cloudy weather was a greatdrawback all the time I was at Rurukan.Even in the vegetation thci'e is very little to indicate elevation.The trees are more covered with lichens and mosses, andthe ferns and tree-ferns are finer and more luxuriant than I

;XVII.] CELEBES. 191had. been accustomed to see them on the low grounds, bothprobably attributable to the almost perpetual moisture thathere prevails. Abundance of a tasteless raspberry, with blueand yellow Composita?, have somewhat of a temperate aspectand minute ferns and Orchide*, with dwarf Begonias on therocks, make some approach to a sub-alpine vegetation. Theforest however is most luxuriant. Noble palms, Pandani, andtree-ferns are abundant in it, while the forest trees are completelyfestooned with Orcliidea?, Bromelise, Aracefe, Lycopodiums,and mosses. The ordinary stemless ferns abound ;somewith gigantic fronds ten or twelve feet long, others barely aninch high ; some with entire and massive leaves, others elegantlywaving their finely-cut foliage, and adding endless variety andinterest to the forest paths. The cocoa-nut palm still producesfruit abundantly, but is said to be deficient in oil. Orangesthrive better than below, jiroducing abundance of deliciousfruit ; but the shaddock or pumplemous (Citrus decumana)requires the full force of a tropical sun, for it will not thriveeven at Tondano a thousand feet lower. On the hilly slopesrice is cultivated largely, and ripens well, altliough tlietemperature rarely or never rises to 80^, so that one wouldthink it might be grown even in England in fine summers,especially if the young plants were raised under glass.Tiie mountains liave an unusual quantity of earth or vegetablemould spread over them. Even on the steepest slopesthere is everywhere a covering of clays and sands, and generallya good thickness of vegetable soil. It is this which perhapscontributes to the uniform luxuriance of the forest, and delaysthe appearance of that sub-alpine vegetation which dependsalmost as much on the abundance of rocky and exposed surfacesas on difierence of climate. At a much lower elevation on MountOphir in Malacca, Dacrydiums and Rhododendrons with abundanceof Nepenthes, ferns, and terrestrial orchids suddenly tookthe place of the lofty forest ; but this was plainly due to tlieoccurrence of an extensive slope of bare gi'anitic rock at anelevation of less than 3,000 feet. The quantity of vegetablesoil, and also of loose sands and clays, resting on steep slopes,hill-tops and the sides of ravines, is a curious and importantphenomenon. It may be due in part to constant slight earthquakeshocks, facilitating tlie disintegration of rock ; but wouldalso seem to indicate that the country has been long exposedto gentle atmospheric action, and tliat its elevation has beenexceedingly slow and continuous.During my stay at Rurukan my curiosity was satisfied byexperiencing a pretty sharp earthquake-shock. On the eveningof June 29th, at a quarter after eight, as I was sitting reading,the house began shaking with a very gentle, but rapidly increasingmotion. I sat still enjoying the novel sensation forsome seconds ; but in less than half a minute it became strongenough to shake me in my chair, and to make tlie house visibly

190 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.Near <strong>the</strong> village are <strong>the</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee plantations. <strong>The</strong> trees areplanted in rows, and are kept topped to about seven feet high.Tliis causes <strong>the</strong> lateral branches to grow very strong, so thatsome <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> trees become perfect hemispheres, loaded with fruitfrom top to bottom, and pi'oducing from ten to twenty poundseach <strong>of</strong> cleaned c<strong>of</strong>fee annually. <strong>The</strong>se plantations were allformed by <strong>the</strong> Government, and are cultivated by <strong>the</strong> villagersunder <strong>the</strong> direction <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir chief. Certain days are apjDointedfor weeding or ga<strong>the</strong>ring, and <strong>the</strong> whole working populationare summoned by sound <strong>of</strong> gong. An account is kept <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>number <strong>of</strong> hours work done by each family, and at <strong>the</strong> year'send <strong>the</strong> produce <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> sale is divided among <strong>the</strong>m proportionately.<strong>The</strong> c<strong>of</strong>fee is taken to Government stores established atcentral places over <strong>the</strong> whole country, and is paid for at a lowfixed price. Out <strong>of</strong> this a certain percentage goes to <strong>the</strong> cliiefsand majors, and <strong>the</strong> remainder is divided among <strong>the</strong> inhabitants.This system works very well, and I believe is at present farbetter for <strong>the</strong> people than free-trade would be. <strong>The</strong>re are alsolarge rice-fields, and in this little village <strong>of</strong> seventy houses Iwas informed that a hundred pounds worth <strong>of</strong> rice was soldannually.I had a small house at <strong>the</strong> very end <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> village, almosthanging over tlie iDrecipitous .slope down to <strong>the</strong> stream, andwith a splendid view from <strong>the</strong> verandali. <strong>The</strong> <strong>the</strong>rmometer in<strong>the</strong> morning <strong>of</strong>ten stood at 62^ and never rose so high as 80°, sothat with <strong>the</strong> thin clothing used in <strong>the</strong> tropical plains we werealways cool and sometimes positively cold, while <strong>the</strong> spout <strong>of</strong>water where I went daily for my bath had quite an icy feel.Although I enjoyed myself very much among <strong>the</strong>se fine mountainsand forests, T was somewhat disappointed as to my collections.<strong>The</strong>re was hardly any jjerceptible difference between<strong>the</strong> animal life in this temperate region and in <strong>the</strong> torrid plainsbelow, and what difference did exist was in most respects disadvantageousto me. <strong>The</strong>re seemed to be nothing absolutelypeculiar to this elevation. Birds and quadrupeds were lessplentiful, but <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same species. In insects <strong>the</strong>re seemed tobe more difference. <strong>The</strong> curious beetles <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> family Cleridse,which are found chiefly on bark and rotten wood, were finerthan I have seen <strong>the</strong>m elsewhere. <strong>The</strong> beautiful Longicornswere scarcer than usual, and <strong>the</strong> few butterflies were all <strong>of</strong>tropical species. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se, Papilio blumei, <strong>of</strong> which I obtaineda few specimens only, is among <strong>the</strong> most magnificent Ihave ever seen. It is a green and gold swallow-tail, with azureblue.spoon-shaped tails, and was <strong>of</strong>ten seen flying about <strong>the</strong>village when <strong>the</strong> sun shone, but in a very shattered condition.<strong>The</strong> great amount <strong>of</strong> wet and cloudy wea<strong>the</strong>r was a greatdrawback all <strong>the</strong> time I was at Rurukan.Even in <strong>the</strong> vegetation thci'e is very little to indicate elevation.<strong>The</strong> trees are more covered with lichens and mosses, and<strong>the</strong> ferns and tree-ferns are finer and more luxuriant than I

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