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The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

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XIII.] TIMOR. 143not found at Coupang. With some difficulty I obtained a largedug-out boat with out-riggers, to take me over, a distance <strong>of</strong>about twenty miles. I found <strong>the</strong> country pretty well wooded,but covered with shrubs and thorny bushes ra<strong>the</strong>r than foresttrees, and everywhere excessively parched and dried up by <strong>the</strong>long-continued dry season. I stayed at <strong>the</strong> village <strong>of</strong> Oeassa,remarkable for its soap springs. One <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se is in <strong>the</strong> middle<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> village bubbling out from a little cone <strong>of</strong> mud to Avhich<strong>the</strong> ground rises all round like a volcano in miniature. <strong>The</strong>water has a soapy feel and produces a strong la<strong>the</strong>r when anygreasy substance is washed in it. It contains alkali and iodine,in such quantities as to destroy all vegetation for some distanceround. Close by <strong>the</strong> A'illage is one <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> finest springs I haveever seen, contained in several rocky basins communicating bynarrow channels. <strong>The</strong>se have been neatly walled where requiredand partly levelled, and form fine natural baths. <strong>The</strong> water iswell tasted and clear as crystal, and <strong>the</strong> basins are surroundedby a grove <strong>of</strong> l<strong>of</strong>ty many-stemmed banyan-trees, which keep<strong>the</strong>m always cool and shady, and add greatly to <strong>the</strong> picturesquebeauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> scene.<strong>The</strong> village consists <strong>of</strong> curious little houses very different fromany I have seen elsewhere. <strong>The</strong>y are <strong>of</strong> an oval figure, and <strong>the</strong>walls are made <strong>of</strong> sticks about four feet high placed closetoge<strong>the</strong>r. From this rises a high conical ro<strong>of</strong> thatched withgrass. <strong>The</strong> only opening is a door about three feet high. <strong>The</strong>people are like <strong>the</strong>.Timot=ese with frizzly or wavy hair and <strong>of</strong> acoppery brown colour. \ TJie^ better class appear to have amixture <strong>of</strong> some superioi*Tkce which has much improved <strong>the</strong>irfeatures. I saw in Coupang some chiefs from <strong>the</strong> is<strong>land</strong> <strong>of</strong> iSavufui'<strong>the</strong>r west, who presented characters very distinct from ei<strong>the</strong>r<strong>the</strong> <strong>Malay</strong> or Papuan races. <strong>The</strong>y most resembled Hindoos,having fine well-formed features and straight thin noses withclear bi'own complexions. As <strong>the</strong> Brahminical religion oncespread over all Java, and even now exists in Bali and Lombock,it is not at all improbable that some natives <strong>of</strong> India shouldhave reached this is<strong>land</strong>, ei<strong>the</strong>r by accident or to escape persecution,and formed a permanent settlement <strong>the</strong>re."!I stayed at Oeassa four days, when, not tindirrg any insectsand very few new birds, I returned to Coupang to await <strong>the</strong>next mail steamer. On <strong>the</strong> way I had a narrow escape <strong>of</strong> beingswamped. <strong>The</strong> deep c<strong>of</strong>fin-like boat was filled up with mybaggage, and with vegetables, cocoa-nuts and o<strong>the</strong>r fruit forCoupang market, and when we had got some way across into ara<strong>the</strong>r rough sea, we found that a quantity <strong>of</strong> water was comingin which we had no means <strong>of</strong> baling out. This caused us to ^inkdeeper in <strong>the</strong> water, and <strong>the</strong>n we shipped seas over our sides,and <strong>the</strong> rowers who had before declared it was nothing nowbecame alarmed, and turned <strong>the</strong> boat round to get back to <strong>the</strong>coast <strong>of</strong> Semao, %vhich was not far <strong>of</strong>t". By clearing away some<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> baggage a Little <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> water could be baled out, but

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