The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

XI.] LOMBOCK : CUSTOMSOF THE PEOPLE. 127mountains of wliich Lombock iDeak, eight thousand feet high, isthe culminating point, formed a lit background to a view scarcelyto be surpassed either in human interest or picturesque beauty.Along the first part of our road we passed liundreds of womencarrjdng rice, fruit, and vegetables to market ; and f urtlier on analmost uninterrupted line of horses laden with rice in bags or inthe ear, on their way to the port of Ampanam. At every fewmiles along the road, seated under shady trees or slight sheds,were sellers of sugar-cane, palm-wine, cooked rice, salted eggs,and fried plantains, with a few other native delicacies. At thesestalls a hearty meal may be made for a penny, but Ave contentedourselves with drinking some sweet palm-wine, a most deliciousbeverage in the heat of the day. After lia\ing travelled abouttwenty miles we readied a higher and drier region, where, waterbeing scarce, cultivation was confined to the little flats borderingthe streams. Here the country was as beautiful as before, butof a different character ;consisting of undulating downs of shortturf interspersed with fine clumps of trees and bushes, sometimesthe woodland, sometimes the open ground predominating. Weonly passed through one small patch of true forest, where wewere shaded by lofty trees and saw around us a dark and densevegetation, highly agreeable after the heat and glare of the opencountry.At length, about an hour after noon, we_reached our destination—thevillage of Coupang, situated nearly in tlie centre of theisland—and entered the outer court of a house belonging to oneof the cliiefs with whom my friend ^h: Eoss had a slight acquaintance.Here we were requested to seat ourselves under anopen shed with a raised floor of bamboo, a jilace used to receivevisitors and hold audiences. Turning our horses to graze on theluxuriant grass of the courtyard, we waited till tlie great man'sMalay interpi'eter appeared, who inquired our business and informedus that tlie Pumbuckle (chief) was at the llajah's house,but would soon be back. As we had not yet breakfasted, webegged he would get us something to eat, which he promised todo as soon as possible. It was however about two hours beforeanything apjDeared, when a small tray was brought containingtwo saucers of rice, four small fried fish, and a few vegetables.Having made as good a breakfast as Ave could, Ave strolled aboutthe Adllage, and returning, amused ourselves by conversation,with a number of men and boj^s avIio gathered round us ; and byexchanging glances and smiles Avitli a number of women andgirls who peeped at us through half-open doors and other creAdces.Two little boys named JMousa and Isa (Moses and Jesus) weregreat friends Avitli us, and an impudent little rascal calledKachang (a bean) made us all laugh by his mimicry and antics.At length about four o'clock the Pumbuckle made liis appearance,and Ave informed him of our desire to stay Avith him afew daj's, to shoot birds and see the countrj'. At this he seemedsomeAvhat disturbed, and asked if Ave had brought a letter from