The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online
^/IIG THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.passage direct to that place from Singapore, I should probablynever have gone near them, and should have missed some of themost important discoveries of my whole expedition to the East.It was on the 13th of June, 1856, after a twenty days' passagefrom Singapore in the Kemhanrj Djepoon (Rose of Japan), aschooner belonging to a Chinese merchant, manned by aJavanese ci'ew, and conmianded by an English captain, that wecast anchor in the dangerous roadstead of Bileling on the northside of the island of Bali. Going on shore with the captain andthe Chinese supercargo, I was at once introduced to a novel andinteresting scene. We went first to the house of the ChineseBandar, or chief merchant, where we found a number of natives,well dressed, and all conspicuously armed with krisses, displayingtlieir large handles of ivory or gold, or beautifully grained andpolishefl wood.The Chinamen had given up their national costume andadopted the Malay dress, and could then hardly be distinguishedfrom the natives of the island—an indication of the close affinityof the Malayan and Mongolian races. Under the thick shadeof some mango-trees close by the house, several women-merchantswere selling cotton goods ; for here the women trade and workfor the benefit of their husbands, a custom which MahometanMalays never adopt. Fruit, tea, cakes, and sweetmeats werebrought us ;many questions were asked about our business andthe state of trade in SingajDore, and we then took a walk tolook at the village. It was a very dull and dreary place ; acollection of narrow lanes bounded by high mud walls, enclosingbamboo houses, into some of which we entered and were verykindly received.During the two days that we remained here, I walked out intoshoot birds, and spythe surrounding country to catch insects,out the nakedness or fertility of the land. I was both astonishedand delighted ; for as my visit to Java was some years later, Ihad never beheld so beautiful and well-cultivated a district outof Europe. A slightly undulating plain extends from the seacoastabout ten or twelve miles inland, where it is bounded by afine I'ange of wooded and cultivated hills. Houses and villages,marked out by dense clumps of cocoa-nut palms, tamarind andother fruit ti'ees, are dotted about in every direction ; Avhilebetween them extend luxuriant rice-grounds, watei'ed by anelaborate system of irrigation that would be the pride of the bestcultivated parts of Europe. The whole surface of the country isdivided into irregular patches, following the undulations of theground, from many acres to a few perches in extent, each ofwhich is itself i^erfectly level, but stands a few inches or severalfeet above or below those adjacent to it. Every one of thesepatches can be flooded or drained at will, by means of a systemof ditches and small channels, into which are, diverted the wholeof the streams that descend from the mountains. Every patchnow bore crops in various stages of growth, some almost ready
X.] BALI AXD LOMBOCK. 117for cutting, and all iu the nio^ t flourishing condition and of themost exquisite green tints.Tlie sides of the lanes and L;'idle roads were often edged withprickly Cacti and a leafless Eui^horbia, but tlie country l)eing soliighly cultivated there was not much room for indigenousvegetation, except upon the sea-beach. We saw plenty of thetine race of domestic cattle descended from the Bos sondaicus ofJava, driven by half-naked boys, or tethered in pasture-grounds.They are large and handsome animals, of a light brown colour,with white legs, and a conspicuous oval patcli behind of the samecoloui'. Wild cattle of the same race are said to be still found inthe mountains. In so well-cultivated a country it was not to beexpected that T could do much in natural history, and myignorance of how important a locality this was for the elucidationof the geographical disti'ibution of animals, caused n)e to neglectobtaining some specimens which I never met with again. Oneof these was a weaver bird with a bright yellow head, whichbuilt its bottle-shaped nests by dozens on some trees near thebeach. It was the Ploceus hj-poxanthus, a native of Java ; andhere at the extreme limits of its range westerly. I shot andpreserved specimens of a wagtail-thrush, an oriole, and somestarlings, all species found in Java, and some of them peculiar tothat i.sland. I also obtained some beautiful butterflies, richlymarked with black and orange on a white ground, and whichwere the most abundant insects in the country lanes. Amongthese was a new species, which I have named Pieris tamai*.Leaving Bileling, a pleasant sail of two days brought us toAmpanam in the island of Lombock, where I proposed to remaintill I could obtain a passage to Macassar. We enjoyed superbviews of the twin volcanoes of Bali and Lombock, each abouteight thousand feet high, which form magnificent objects at sunriseand sunset, when they rise out of the mists and clouds thatsurround their bases, glowing with the rich and changmg tintsof these the most charming moments in a tropical day.The bay or roadstead of Ampanam is extensive, and being atthis season sheltered from the prevalent south-easterly winds,was as smooth as a lake. The beach of black volcanic sand isvery steep, and there is at all times a heavy sui'f upon it, whichduring spi'ing-tides increases to sucli an extent that it is oftenimpossible for boats to land, and many sei'ious accidents haveoccurred. Where we lay anchored, about a quarter of a milefrom the shore, not the slightest swell was perceptible, but onapproaching nearer undulations began, which rapidly increased,so as to form rollers which toppled over on to the beach at regularintervals with a noise like thunder. Sometimes this surf increasessuddenly during perfect calms, to as great a force and fury aswhen a gale of wind is blowing, beating to pieces all boats thatmay not have been hauled sutliciently high upon the beach, andcarrying away incautious natives. This violent surf is probablyin some way clependent on the swell of the great southern ocean,
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X.] BALI AXD LOMBOCK. 117for cutting, and all iu <strong>the</strong> nio^ t flourishing condition and <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>most exquisite green tints.Tlie sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lanes and L;'idle roads were <strong>of</strong>ten edged withprickly Cacti and a leafless Eui^horbia, but tlie country l)eing soliighly cultivated <strong>the</strong>re was not much room for indigenousvegetation, except upon <strong>the</strong> sea-beach. We saw plenty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>tine race <strong>of</strong> domestic cattle descended from <strong>the</strong> Bos sondaicus <strong>of</strong>Java, driven by half-naked boys, or te<strong>the</strong>red in pasture-grounds.<strong>The</strong>y are large and handsome animals, <strong>of</strong> a light brown colour,with white legs, and a conspicuous oval patcli behind <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> samecoloui'. Wild cattle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same race are said to be still found in<strong>the</strong> mountains. In so well-cultivated a country it was not to beexpected that T could do much in natural history, and myignorance <strong>of</strong> how important a locality this was for <strong>the</strong> elucidation<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> geographical disti'ibution <strong>of</strong> animals, caused n)e to neglectobtaining some specimens which I never met with again. One<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se was a weaver bird with a bright yellow head, whichbuilt its bottle-shaped nests by dozens on some trees near <strong>the</strong>beach. It was <strong>the</strong> Ploceus hj-poxanthus, a native <strong>of</strong> Java ; andhere at <strong>the</strong> extreme limits <strong>of</strong> its range westerly. I shot andpreserved specimens <strong>of</strong> a wagtail-thrush, an oriole, and somestarlings, all species found in Java, and some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m peculiar tothat i.s<strong>land</strong>. I also obtained some beautiful butterflies, richlymarked with black and <strong>orang</strong>e on a white ground, and whichwere <strong>the</strong> most abundant insects in <strong>the</strong> country lanes. Among<strong>the</strong>se was a new species, which I have named Pieris tamai*.Leaving Bileling, a pleasant sail <strong>of</strong> two days brought us toAmpanam in <strong>the</strong> is<strong>land</strong> <strong>of</strong> Lombock, where I proposed to remaintill I could obtain a passage to Macassar. We enjoyed superbviews <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> twin volcanoes <strong>of</strong> Bali and Lombock, each abouteight thousand feet high, which form magnificent objects at sunriseand sunset, when <strong>the</strong>y rise out <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mists and clouds thatsurround <strong>the</strong>ir bases, glowing with <strong>the</strong> rich and changmg tints<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>se <strong>the</strong> most charming moments in a tropical day.<strong>The</strong> bay or roadstead <strong>of</strong> Ampanam is extensive, and being atthis season sheltered from <strong>the</strong> prevalent south-easterly winds,was as smooth as a lake. <strong>The</strong> beach <strong>of</strong> black volcanic sand isvery steep, and <strong>the</strong>re is at all times a heavy sui'f upon it, whichduring spi'ing-tides increases to sucli an extent that it is <strong>of</strong>tenimpossible for boats to <strong>land</strong>, and many sei'ious accidents haveoccurred. Where we lay anchored, about a quarter <strong>of</strong> a milefrom <strong>the</strong> shore, not <strong>the</strong> slightest swell was perceptible, but onapproaching nearer undulations began, which rapidly increased,so as to form rollers which toppled over on to <strong>the</strong> beach at regularintervals with a noise like thunder. Sometimes this surf increasessuddenly during perfect calms, to as great a force and fury aswhen a gale <strong>of</strong> wind is blowing, beating to pieces all boats thatmay not have been hauled sutliciently high upon <strong>the</strong> beach, andcarrying away incautious natives. This violent surf is probablyin some way clependent on <strong>the</strong> swell <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great sou<strong>the</strong>rn ocean,