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The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

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88 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [chap.insect life. Here I had got into <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r extreme <strong>of</strong> damp,wet, and cloudy wea<strong>the</strong>r, which was equally unfavourable.During <strong>the</strong> month which I spent in <strong>the</strong> interior <strong>of</strong> West Java, Inever had a really hot fine day throughout. It rained almostevery afternoon, or dense mists came down from <strong>the</strong> mountains,which equally stopped collecting, and rendered it most difficultto dry my specimens, so that I really had no chance <strong>of</strong> gettinga fair sample <strong>of</strong> Javanese entomology.By far <strong>the</strong> most interesting incident in my visit to Java wasa trip to <strong>the</strong> summit <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Pangerango and Gedeh mountains ;<strong>the</strong> former an extinct volcanic cone about 10,000 feet high, <strong>the</strong>latter an active crater on a lower portion <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> same mountainrange. Tchipanas, about four miles over <strong>the</strong> MegamendongPass, is at <strong>the</strong> foot <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mountain. A small country house for<strong>the</strong> Governor-General and a branch <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Botanic Gardens aresituated here, <strong>the</strong> keeper <strong>of</strong> which accommodated me with a bedfor a night. <strong>The</strong>re are many beautiful trees and shrubs plantedhere, and large quantities <strong>of</strong> European vegetables are grown for<strong>the</strong> Go\ernor-Generars table. By <strong>the</strong> side <strong>of</strong> a little torrentthat bordered <strong>the</strong> garden, quantities <strong>of</strong> orchids wei'e cultivated,attached to <strong>the</strong> trunks <strong>of</strong> trees, or suspended from <strong>the</strong> branches,forming an interesting open-air orchid-house. As I intended tostay two or three nights on <strong>the</strong> mountain I engaged two cooliesto carry my baggage, and with my two hunters we started early<strong>the</strong> next morning. <strong>The</strong> first mile was over open country, whichbrought us to <strong>the</strong> forest that covers <strong>the</strong> whole mountain from aheight <strong>of</strong> about 5,000 feet. <strong>The</strong> next mile or two was a tolerablysteep ascent through a grand virgin forest, <strong>the</strong> trees being <strong>of</strong>great size, and <strong>the</strong> undergrowth consisting <strong>of</strong> fine herbaceousplants, tree-ferns, and shrubby vegetation. I was struck by<strong>the</strong> immense number <strong>of</strong> ferns that grew by tlie side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> road.<strong>The</strong>ir variety seemed endless, and I was continually stopping toadmire some new and interesting forms. I could now wellunderstand what I had been told by <strong>the</strong> gardener, that 300species had been found on this one mountain. A little beforenoon we reached <strong>the</strong> small plateau <strong>of</strong> Tjilmrong at <strong>the</strong> foot <strong>of</strong><strong>the</strong> steejDer part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mountain, where <strong>the</strong>re is a plank-housefor <strong>the</strong> accommodation <strong>of</strong> travellers. Close by is a picturesquewaterfall and a curious cavern, which I had not time to explore.Continuing our ascent <strong>the</strong> road became narrow, rugged andsteep, winding zigzag up <strong>the</strong> cone, whicli is covered with irregularmasses <strong>of</strong> rock, and overgrown with a dense luxuriantbut less l<strong>of</strong>ty vegetation. We passed a torrent <strong>of</strong> water whichis not much lower tlian <strong>the</strong> boiling jDoint, and has a mostsingular appearance as it foams over its rugged bed, sending upclouds <strong>of</strong> steam, and <strong>of</strong>ten concealed by <strong>the</strong> overhanging herbage<strong>of</strong> ferns and lycopodia, which here thrive with more luxuriancethan elsewhere.At about 7,500 feet we came to ano<strong>the</strong>r hut <strong>of</strong> open bamboos,at a place called Kandang Badak, or " Rhinoceros-field," which

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