The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online The Malay archipelago : the land of the orang-utan ... - Wallace Online

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76 THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. [f haf.beautiful and varied, and present many peculiar forms foundnowhere else upon the globe. The soil throughout the island isexceedingly fertile, and all the productions of the tropics,together with many of the temperate zones, can be easily cultivated.Java too jDOssesses a civilization, a history and antiquitiesof its own, of great interest. The Brahminical religionflourished in it from an epoch of unknown antiquity till aboutthe year 1478, when that of Mahomet superseded it. The formerreligion was accompanied by a civilization which has not beenequalled by the conquerors ; for, scattered through the country,especially in the eastern Y)avt of it, are found buried in loftyforests, temples, tombs, and statues of great beauty andgrandeur ;and the remains of extensive cities, where the tiger,the rhinoceros, and the wild bull now roam undisturbed. Amodern civilization of another type is now spreading over theland. Good roads run through the country from end to end ;Euroi^ean and native rulers work harmoniously together ; andlife and property are as Avell secured as in the best governedstates of Europe. I believe, therefore, that Java may fairlyclaim to be the finest tropical island in the world, and equallyinteresting to the tourist seeking after new and beautiful scenes ;to the naturalist who desires to examine the variety and beautyof tropical nature ;or to the moralist and the politician whowant to solve the problem of how man may be best governedunder new and varied conditions.The Dutch mail steamer brought me from Ternate to Sourabaya,the chief town and port in the eastern part of Java, andafter a fortnight spent in packing up and sending off my lastcollections, I started on a short journey into the interior.Travelling in Java is very luxurious but very expensive, theonly way being to hire or borrow a carriage, and then pay halfa-crowna mile for post-horses, which are changed at regularposts every six miles, and will carry you at the rate of ten milesan hour from one end of the island to the other. Bullock cartsor coolies are required to carry all extra baggage. As this kindof travelling would not suit my means, I determined on makingonly a short journey to the district at the foot of Mount Arjuna,where I was told there were extensive forests, and where I hopedto be able to make some good collections. The country for manymiles behind Sourabaya is perfectly flat and everywhere cultivated,being a delta or alluvial plain watei'ed by many branchingstreams. Immediately around the town the evident signs ofwealth and of an industrious jDopulation were very pleasing ;but as we went on, the constant succession of open fields skirtedby rows of bamboos, with here and there the white buildings andtall chimney of a sugar-mill, became monotonous. Tlie roadsrun in straight lines for several miles at a stretch, and arebordered by rows of dusty tamarind-trees. At each mile thereare little guard-liouses, where a policeman is stationed ; and

VII.] JAVA. 77there is a wooden gong, which by means of concerted signalsmay be made to convey information over the country with greatrapidity. About every six or seven miles is the post-house, wherethe horses are changed as quickly as were those of the mail inthe old coaching days in England.I stopped at Modjo-kerto, a small town about forty miles southof Sourabaya, and the nearest jjoint on the liigh road to thedistrict I wislied to visit. I had a letter of introduction to Mr.Ball, an Englishman long resident in Java and married to aDutch lady, and he kindly invited me to stay with him till Icould fix on a j^lace to suit me. A Dutch Assistant Kesident aswell as a Eegent or native Javanese prince lived here. Thetown was neat, and had a nice open grassy space like a villagegreen, on which stood a magnificent tig-tree (allied to the Banyanof India, but more lofty), under whose shade a kind of market iscontinually held, and where the inhabitants meet together tolounge and chat. The day after my arrival, Mr. Ball drove meover to the Aillage of Modjo-agong, where he was building ahouse and premises for the tobacco trade, which is carried onhere by a system of native cultivation and advance purchase,somewhat similar to the indigo trade in British India. On ourM'ay we stayed to look at a fragment of the ruins of the ancientcity of Modjo-pahit, consisting of tw^o lofty brick masses, apparentlythe sides of a gateway. The extreme perfection andbeauty of the brickwork astonished me. The bricks are exceedinglyfine and hard, with sharp angles and true surfaces. Theyare laid with great exactness, without visible mortar or cement,yet somehow fastened together so that the joints are hardly percej)tible,and sometimes the two surfaces coalesce in a most incomprehensiblemanner. Such admirable brickwork I havenever seen before or since.There was no sculpture here, butabundance of bold projections and finely-worked mouldings.Traces of buildings exist for many miles in every direction, andalmost every road and pathway shows a foundation of brickworkbeneath it— the paved roads of the old city. In the house of theWaidono or district chief at Modjo-agong, I saw a beautiful figurecarved in high relief out of a block of lava, and which had beenfound buried in the ground near the village. On my expressinga wish to obtain some such specimen, Mr. B. asked the chief forit, and much to my surprise he immediately gave it me. It representedthe Hindoo goddess Durga, called in Java, LoraJonggrang (the exalted \irgin). She has eight arms, and standson the back of a kneeling bull. Her lower riglit hand holds thetail of the bull, while tlie corresponding left hand grasps thehair of a capti^•e, Dewth Mahikusor, the personification of vice,who has attempted to slay her bull. He has a cord round hiswaist, and crouches at her feet in an attitude of supplication.The other hands of the goddess hold, on her right side, a doublehook or small anchor, a broad straight sword, and a noose ofthick cord ; on her left, a girdle or armlet of large beads or

VII.] JAVA. 77<strong>the</strong>re is a wooden gong, which by means <strong>of</strong> concerted signalsmay be made to convey information over <strong>the</strong> country with greatrapidity. About every six or seven miles is <strong>the</strong> post-house, where<strong>the</strong> horses are changed as quickly as were those <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> mail in<strong>the</strong> old coaching days in Eng<strong>land</strong>.I stopped at Modjo-kerto, a small town about forty miles south<strong>of</strong> Sourabaya, and <strong>the</strong> nearest jjoint on <strong>the</strong> liigh road to <strong>the</strong>district I wislied to visit. I had a letter <strong>of</strong> introduction to Mr.Ball, an Englishman long resident in Java and married to aDutch lady, and he kindly invited me to stay with him till Icould fix on a j^lace to suit me. A Dutch Assistant Kesident aswell as a Eegent or native Javanese prince lived here. <strong>The</strong>town was neat, and had a nice open grassy space like a villagegreen, on which stood a magnificent tig-tree (allied to <strong>the</strong> Banyan<strong>of</strong> India, but more l<strong>of</strong>ty), under whose shade a kind <strong>of</strong> market iscontinually held, and where <strong>the</strong> inhabitants meet toge<strong>the</strong>r tolounge and chat. <strong>The</strong> day after my arrival, Mr. Ball drove meover to <strong>the</strong> Aillage <strong>of</strong> Modjo-agong, where he was building ahouse and premises for <strong>the</strong> tobacco trade, which is carried onhere by a system <strong>of</strong> native cultivation and advance purchase,somewhat similar to <strong>the</strong> indigo trade in British India. On ourM'ay we stayed to look at a fragment <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ruins <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> ancientcity <strong>of</strong> Modjo-pahit, consisting <strong>of</strong> tw^o l<strong>of</strong>ty brick masses, apparently<strong>the</strong> sides <strong>of</strong> a gateway. <strong>The</strong> extreme perfection andbeauty <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> brickwork astonished me. <strong>The</strong> bricks are exceedinglyfine and hard, with sharp angles and true surfaces. <strong>The</strong>yare laid with great exactness, without visible mortar or cement,yet somehow fastened toge<strong>the</strong>r so that <strong>the</strong> joints are hardly percej)tible,and sometimes <strong>the</strong> two surfaces coalesce in a most incomprehensiblemanner. Such admirable brickwork I havenever seen before or since.<strong>The</strong>re was no sculpture here, butabundance <strong>of</strong> bold projections and finely-worked mouldings.Traces <strong>of</strong> buildings exist for many miles in every direction, andalmost every road and pathway shows a foundation <strong>of</strong> brickworkbeneath it— <strong>the</strong> paved roads <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old city. In <strong>the</strong> house <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>Waidono or district chief at Modjo-agong, I saw a beautiful figurecarved in high relief out <strong>of</strong> a block <strong>of</strong> lava, and which had beenfound buried in <strong>the</strong> ground near <strong>the</strong> village. On my expressinga wish to obtain some such specimen, Mr. B. asked <strong>the</strong> chief forit, and much to my surprise he immediately gave it me. It represented<strong>the</strong> Hindoo goddess Durga, called in Java, LoraJonggrang (<strong>the</strong> exalted \irgin). She has eight arms, and standson <strong>the</strong> back <strong>of</strong> a kneeling bull. Her lower riglit hand holds <strong>the</strong>tail <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bull, while tlie corresponding left hand grasps <strong>the</strong>hair <strong>of</strong> a capti^•e, Dewth Mahikusor, <strong>the</strong> personification <strong>of</strong> vice,who has attempted to slay her bull. He has a cord round hiswaist, and crouches at her feet in an attitude <strong>of</strong> supplication.<strong>The</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r hands <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> goddess hold, on her right side, a doublehook or small anchor, a broad straight sword, and a noose <strong>of</strong>thick cord ; on her left, a girdle or armlet <strong>of</strong> large beads or

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