saving one day. Also remember, you’re not going to make any friends at your veterinaryclinic if you show up empty-handed or with far fewer cats than planned. Most clinicswill have already incurred expenses which they can’t recoup, like scheduling staff, basedon the planned number.If it’s absolutely unavoidable and one day of trapping is all you can manage, then beextra careful to make sure the cats are very hungry and start out early, leaving yourself asmuch time as possible.A drop trap can also help if you find yourself with less than the ideal amount of timeto trap. As mentioned, cats don’t have to be as hungry to go under one as they need to beto enter a box trap. What you can do, if you’ve only got one day, is first set out your boxtraps and catch as many of the colony members as you can. Then, instead of packing upand coming back the next day when the holdouts are hungrier – because you don’t have a“next day” - break out a drop trap and try to catch them that way. See Chapter 10 to learnhow to use a drop trap.3. Check the trapsCheck that the traps are working properly before transporting them to the colony site.Ideally, you’ll have done this when you first borrowed or purchased the traps, but if youdidn’t, do it before heading out into the field. To test one, first set the trigger mechanism.On most traps, except the Tru-Catch, this will mean lifting the front door all the way up,then pulling the trigger hook forward until it rests under one of the crossbars on top of thetrap. When the trigger is set, it should cause the back of the trip plate to rise up. Reachthrough the side of the trap with your finger or a pen and press down on the raised tripplate. The trip plate should go down without too much pressure – imagine a cat’s pawstepping on it - and cause the front door to quickly close. After the front door has shut,check to make sure its automatic lock mechanism – usually a clip on top of the trap – hasengaged and the door can’t be opened by just tugging it forward without lifting the lock.If it can, it means a cat inside the trap could push the door up and get out. Finally, do aquick check of the rear door to make sure its locking mechanism is also functioning.If you discover at the last minute that a trap is broken and can’t fix it, all is not lost.Mark it as broken and bring it to the trapping, anyway. Once you’ve caught a cat in atrap that is working, you can transfer the cat into the broken one and free up thefunctional trap. How to perform a transfer from a trap is explained later in this chapter.If a trap’s moving parts are sticky and not operating smoothly, a littlelubrication might fix the problem. An excellent lubricant which is safe forthe cats and easy to apply is non-stick vegetable oil spray. Find it in thebakery aisle of your supermarket and try butter-flavored to help attractcats with the scent.72
4. Prepare the trapsAfter you’ve transported your equipmentand supplies to the colony site, unload the trapsand line them up in a row, rear doors all facingthe same way. Put the traps down acomfortable distance from where the cats arenormally fed and, if possible, just around thecorner and out of sight. This will reduce thechance of alarming the cats with what to themwill appear to be new and unusual activity.Remove the rear doors, placing each on topof its trap. At this point, if you’re using trapswith small trip plates, tape the cardboardphoto: Bryan Kortisextenders on, making sure the edge of thecardboard, and not simply the tape, reaches the middle of the plate (see Figure 8-4 inChapter 8). Next, open the bait and place generous portions on small paper or plasticplates. Use mostly your favorite bait but also add at least a bit of a second kind. Thenplace the bait behind the trip plate – right up against the rear door is good. Shut the reardoors, double-checking that they’re locked properly.One exception to using a fair amount of bait is if you know a cat is going to beoperated on within hours, for example, if the trap is set early in the morning of yourspay/neuter date. In that case, only use a small amount of very smelly bait. Ideally,when a cat goes for surgery, her stomach is empty to avoid possible complications causedby anesthesia, such as vomiting then choking and gagging. If the cat did eat within hoursof surgery, even a small amount, be sure to inform your veterinarian.As mentioned earlier, at <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong>, we don’t usually line the floors of all thetraps with newspaper, but only do so later in the trapping if there are cats reluctant to goin. Some trappers prefer to start out withnewspaper on the bottom of all traps. If that’swhat you want to do, too, then after you’velocked the rear doors, go to the front of each trap,open the front door and line the floor withnewspaper, using clothespins to attach it to thesides of the trap.Finally, roll up a sheet and tuck it between thehandles on top of each trap. That way, when a catis caught and you need to cover him quickly, youwon’t have to go running back and forth, lookingphoto: Meredith Weissfor a sheet.5. Place the traps in the territoryOnce all the traps are ready, place them all in the territory at the same time. Don’t putonly some out, thinking you’ll put out the rest after you’ve caught some cats. The fewer73
- Page 1 and 2:
TNR HandbookThe Guide to Trap-Neute
- Page 3 and 4:
Table of ContentsForeword by Susan
- Page 5 and 6:
Chapter Ten: The Neighborhood Cats
- Page 7 and 8:
ForewordOne of the first ferals I e
- Page 9:
Introduction“If we keep ‘em in
- Page 12 and 13:
2. What is Trap-Neuter-Return?Trap-
- Page 14 and 15:
c) Fewer nuisance complaints. As me
- Page 17 and 18:
and as their hunger grows, they wil
- Page 19 and 20:
3. The TNR Process - An OverviewEve
- Page 21 and 22:
After you’ve determined how many
- Page 23 and 24:
for this purpose. Once you can talk
- Page 25 and 26:
like the board of a homeowners asso
- Page 27 and 28: information provided because of the
- Page 29 and 30: act to discourage cats from enterin
- Page 31 and 32: epel. It operates on four “C” b
- Page 33 and 34: • Free-standing fencesPurrfect Fe
- Page 35 and 36: • Type of feeding stationThe perf
- Page 37 and 38: Amazon (www.amazon.com) for “Le B
- Page 39 and 40: will be drawn to this easily reache
- Page 41 and 42: a search for “heated water bowl
- Page 43 and 44: interior warm enough to prevent or
- Page 45 and 46: food works best for your budget, th
- Page 47 and 48: steroids, tranquilizers, anesthetic
- Page 49: weather, loud construction work nea
- Page 52 and 53: • Feralvilla Outdoor Cat ShelterD
- Page 54 and 55: • Styrofoam boxesRestaurants and
- Page 56 and 57: Another option is the Snuggle Safe
- Page 58 and 59: apart. Knowing the correct number,
- Page 60 and 61: 4. Schedule the spay/neuterAfter yo
- Page 62 and 63: three more traps than the number of
- Page 64 and 65: Tomahawk Live Trap- Neighborhood Ca
- Page 66 and 67: 11 inches in height. In our opinion
- Page 68 and 69: trap are attached. The transfer doo
- Page 70 and 71: Feral cat densNeighborhood Cats Fer
- Page 72 and 73: drop trap (code: KITDT) - see Figur
- Page 74 and 75: That said, not every community offe
- Page 76 and 77: practice. In our experience, there
- Page 80 and 81: intrusions you and others make into
- Page 82 and 83: doing so. Don’t check too frequen
- Page 84 and 85: Winter trappingSome trappers in nor
- Page 86 and 87: around and inflict a severe bite or
- Page 88 and 89: The bottle-and-string method is use
- Page 90 and 91: you let her go right away, there is
- Page 92 and 93: If you might have to care for unwea
- Page 94 and 95: Unless a caretaker objects on relig
- Page 96 and 97: Caddie” by Tomahawk (see Figure 9
- Page 98 and 99: effective, some experienced trapper
- Page 100 and 101: feet long, and lean it up against a
- Page 102 and 103: sodium hypochlorite on the label of
- Page 104 and 105: PreparationsAs with any trapping, i
- Page 106 and 107: 4. Anchor the trap. Place a heavy o
- Page 108 and 109: transfer cage, so the far end needs
- Page 110 and 111: 11. Caring for Cats in TrapsWhile t
- Page 112 and 113: Feeding and cleaningThe traps shoul
- Page 114 and 115: 7. Secure the rear doorAfter you’
- Page 116 and 117: Figure 12-1 shows the Setup fullyas
- Page 118 and 119: unlikely the cat would be able to o
- Page 120 and 121: • Special instructionsAny special
- Page 122 and 123: The FVRCP vaccine, also known as th
- Page 124 and 125: difficult without the ability to te
- Page 126 and 127: windpipe and cut off her breathing.
- Page 128 and 129:
“snap” test, it produces a resu
- Page 130 and 131:
In our experience, the primary caus
- Page 132 and 133:
Before releasing a spayed female, r
- Page 134 and 135:
has been created and one set of cat
- Page 136 and 137:
and water bowls - see the Feral Cat
- Page 138 and 139:
enforcement agency will tell you if
- Page 140 and 141:
long will show signs of being socia
- Page 142 and 143:
feral at all yet and may tame immed
- Page 144 and 145:
When they’re verycomfortable with
- Page 146 and 147:
socialize enough, which is very lik
- Page 148 and 149:
When the cat no longer uses the cag
- Page 150 and 151:
alternatives, like scratching posts
- Page 152 and 153:
• Where to lookIn order to attrac
- Page 154 and 155:
In case you’re unable to return t
- Page 156 and 157:
18. Feral Cat ResourcesBooks Implem
- Page 158 and 159:
Petco Foundation (4Rs Project Suppo
- Page 160 and 161:
ToolkitsAction Kit: Advocating for
- Page 162 and 163:
Appendix BHOW TO BUILDTHE NEIGHBORH
- Page 164 and 165:
5. Place piece E two inches back fr
- Page 166 and 167:
Trap LogProject/Colony: ___________
- Page 168:
In memory ofBobby Kergis1952 - 2011