• Styrofoam boxesRestaurants and grocery stores oftenreceive meats and fish in Styrofoam boxes.Meat companies, like Omaha Steak, use themfor shipping their products as well. Theexcellent insulation keeps the products cold orfrozen and will also work to trap a cat’s bodyheat. If you ask around, you’ll likely find aplace that will donate them to you. Theycome in all sizes – some will provide enoughspace for only one cat, others may hold up tothree. To turn them into winter shelters likethe one pictured here:1. Glue the lid onto the top of the box, using silicone glue (preferably avariety that can be painted over; should say “paintable” on the label). Begenerous with the glue because it will also act as a sealant to keep outrain and drafts.2. Using a box cutter, cut a 6 inches x 6 inches doorway in the middle ofone of the narrower sides. Make the bottom of the doorway severalinches above the ground to prevent flooding.3. With latex deck paint, paint the exterior to match the surroundings.4. Stuff the interior with insulating material like straw.• Cardboard boxesIn a pinch, a simple cardboard box will workas a temporary winter shelter because cardboarddoes provide some insulation. Using duct tape,tape the top and bottom of the box closed, sealingall seams. Then cut a 6 inches x 6 inches doorwayin one side of the box, towards the corner and afew inches off the ground. Wrap a plastic trashbag or thick plastic drop cloth around the box,generously taping it in place by wrapping ducttape around the bag and box. Cut away the plasticaround the doorway and tape the loose edges tothe box. Stuff the box with straw or shreddednewspaper. If possible, raise the box off the ground, place it underneath something thatwill shield it, such as a tree, and lay a wide board on top for added protection and toweigh the box down.48
Whatever type of shelter you use, if the roof is flat and strong enough,place a piece of plywood on top for added protection from the elements.The board should extend 12 inches beyond the front of the shelter and be ofequal or slightly greater width. The extended roof will help shield thedoorway and create a protected “dining area” where the cats can be fed inpoor weather. For maximum protection, position two shelters with theirdoorways facing one another and use one piece of plywood to cover bothroofs and bridge the gap between them. Doorway flapsDoorway flaps help keep cold air out and warm air in. Flaps should not be added,however, until after the cats are used to going in and out of the shelter. They can be cutfrom a rubber or vinyl mat or a thick piece of clear plastic – something thick enough toblock the cold, but flexible enough for the cats to be able to pull it open on their way in orpush it forward on their way out.Attach the flap above the doorway either with duct tape or, for a more permanentsolution, with plastic nuts and bolts like those used to attach toilet seats to the bowl. Forplastic nuts and bolts, drill two holes in the shelter above the doorway and cutcorresponding holes in the flap. Then push the bolts through the flap and shelter wall andscrew on the nuts. Insulating materialsPutting insulating materials inside the shelter will increase comfort and warmth forthe cats. But they should only be used if the shelters can be periodically checked to see ifthe materials have gotten damp or too dirty and need to be replaced. If regular checkupsare not possible, leave the interiors bare.Only insulating materials which the cats can burrow into should be used. Commonhousehold items which the cats will only lie on top of, like blankets, towels or flatnewspaper, will do more harm than good. These items, when they are underneath a cat,draw body heat out and actually make the cat colder.Straw is the best insulating material to use. Hay is not good because it is damp tostart with, prone to mold or rot, and may cause an allergic reaction and nasal sores insome cats. Shredded newspaper will also work as long as it’s shredded enough to allowthe cats to burrow into it. Ellen Perry Berkeley’s book, Maverick <strong>Cats</strong>, offers aninnovative idea - loosely fill a cotton pillowcase with Styrofoam peanuts, the kind used topack fragile items for shipping. Then put the stuffed pillowcase inside the shelter. Thepillowcase will conform to the cat’s body and wrap her in the heat-capturing peanuts.(Berkeley, E.P., Maverick <strong>Cats</strong> (2001) New England Press.)One exception to the rule of not putting anything in the shelter that the cats can onlylie on top of is the “Mysterious Purr Pad” by Fleximat. The polyester pad absorbs andretains body heat, so it warms a cat from below and can be safely placed on the floor of awinter shelter. The item is often available at PetSmart (www.petsmart.com) and Petco(www.petco.com). An online search will find other retailers as well.49
- Page 1 and 2:
TNR HandbookThe Guide to Trap-Neute
- Page 3 and 4: Table of ContentsForeword by Susan
- Page 5 and 6: Chapter Ten: The Neighborhood Cats
- Page 7 and 8: ForewordOne of the first ferals I e
- Page 9: Introduction“If we keep ‘em in
- Page 12 and 13: 2. What is Trap-Neuter-Return?Trap-
- Page 14 and 15: c) Fewer nuisance complaints. As me
- Page 17 and 18: and as their hunger grows, they wil
- Page 19 and 20: 3. The TNR Process - An OverviewEve
- Page 21 and 22: After you’ve determined how many
- Page 23 and 24: for this purpose. Once you can talk
- Page 25 and 26: like the board of a homeowners asso
- Page 27 and 28: information provided because of the
- Page 29 and 30: act to discourage cats from enterin
- Page 31 and 32: epel. It operates on four “C” b
- Page 33 and 34: • Free-standing fencesPurrfect Fe
- Page 35 and 36: • Type of feeding stationThe perf
- Page 37 and 38: Amazon (www.amazon.com) for “Le B
- Page 39 and 40: will be drawn to this easily reache
- Page 41 and 42: a search for “heated water bowl
- Page 43 and 44: interior warm enough to prevent or
- Page 45 and 46: food works best for your budget, th
- Page 47 and 48: steroids, tranquilizers, anesthetic
- Page 49: weather, loud construction work nea
- Page 52 and 53: • Feralvilla Outdoor Cat ShelterD
- Page 56 and 57: Another option is the Snuggle Safe
- Page 58 and 59: apart. Knowing the correct number,
- Page 60 and 61: 4. Schedule the spay/neuterAfter yo
- Page 62 and 63: three more traps than the number of
- Page 64 and 65: Tomahawk Live Trap- Neighborhood Ca
- Page 66 and 67: 11 inches in height. In our opinion
- Page 68 and 69: trap are attached. The transfer doo
- Page 70 and 71: Feral cat densNeighborhood Cats Fer
- Page 72 and 73: drop trap (code: KITDT) - see Figur
- Page 74 and 75: That said, not every community offe
- Page 76 and 77: practice. In our experience, there
- Page 78 and 79: saving one day. Also remember, you
- Page 80 and 81: intrusions you and others make into
- Page 82 and 83: doing so. Don’t check too frequen
- Page 84 and 85: Winter trappingSome trappers in nor
- Page 86 and 87: around and inflict a severe bite or
- Page 88 and 89: The bottle-and-string method is use
- Page 90 and 91: you let her go right away, there is
- Page 92 and 93: If you might have to care for unwea
- Page 94 and 95: Unless a caretaker objects on relig
- Page 96 and 97: Caddie” by Tomahawk (see Figure 9
- Page 98 and 99: effective, some experienced trapper
- Page 100 and 101: feet long, and lean it up against a
- Page 102 and 103: sodium hypochlorite on the label of
- Page 104 and 105:
PreparationsAs with any trapping, i
- Page 106 and 107:
4. Anchor the trap. Place a heavy o
- Page 108 and 109:
transfer cage, so the far end needs
- Page 110 and 111:
11. Caring for Cats in TrapsWhile t
- Page 112 and 113:
Feeding and cleaningThe traps shoul
- Page 114 and 115:
7. Secure the rear doorAfter you’
- Page 116 and 117:
Figure 12-1 shows the Setup fullyas
- Page 118 and 119:
unlikely the cat would be able to o
- Page 120 and 121:
• Special instructionsAny special
- Page 122 and 123:
The FVRCP vaccine, also known as th
- Page 124 and 125:
difficult without the ability to te
- Page 126 and 127:
windpipe and cut off her breathing.
- Page 128 and 129:
“snap” test, it produces a resu
- Page 130 and 131:
In our experience, the primary caus
- Page 132 and 133:
Before releasing a spayed female, r
- Page 134 and 135:
has been created and one set of cat
- Page 136 and 137:
and water bowls - see the Feral Cat
- Page 138 and 139:
enforcement agency will tell you if
- Page 140 and 141:
long will show signs of being socia
- Page 142 and 143:
feral at all yet and may tame immed
- Page 144 and 145:
When they’re verycomfortable with
- Page 146 and 147:
socialize enough, which is very lik
- Page 148 and 149:
When the cat no longer uses the cag
- Page 150 and 151:
alternatives, like scratching posts
- Page 152 and 153:
• Where to lookIn order to attrac
- Page 154 and 155:
In case you’re unable to return t
- Page 156 and 157:
18. Feral Cat ResourcesBooks Implem
- Page 158 and 159:
Petco Foundation (4Rs Project Suppo
- Page 160 and 161:
ToolkitsAction Kit: Advocating for
- Page 162 and 163:
Appendix BHOW TO BUILDTHE NEIGHBORH
- Page 164 and 165:
5. Place piece E two inches back fr
- Page 166 and 167:
Trap LogProject/Colony: ___________
- Page 168:
In memory ofBobby Kergis1952 - 2011