excess will also be excreted harmlessly, but will not acidify the urinebecause sodium ascorbate is alkaline. On the plus side, its flavor ismilder and it is the most readily accepted by cats of the three types ofVitamin C, although as with ascorbic acid, it’s a good idea to add somefish-flavored food to cover the sour taste. So if there is no reason to worryabout the acidity of the urine and you simply want to give a Vitamin Csupplement, sodium ascorbate is the one I would choose.• Calcium Ascorbate is very popular for use in humans because it is veryalkaline instead of acidic. It is used by people who suffer from ulcers orhyperacidity because it tends to neutralize stomach acid. Unlike withhumans, the stomach of a healthy cat is supposed to be extremely acidic tofacilitate the digestion of protein, so calcium ascorbate can upset thisbalance. Another drawback when it comes to cats is its very bitter taste.A person can pop it down as a pill, but for cats we have to use a powderform and mix it into the food. It makes the whole meal taste bitter. It’salso a bit more expensive than the other two types. I don’t use it at all.When found in its natural state in foods like tomato sauce, Vitamin C is accompaniedby bioflavonoids, rutin and hesperidin. Science has found that these nutritional sidekicksare provided by nature to help the body absorb the C and put it to work more efficiently.A cheap jar of ascorbic acid in powder form will certainly give wonderful support andprotection and it will help keep the urine acid as it should be, but C complex (ascorbicacid with bioflavonoids, rutin and hesperidin) will do a lot more for only a little moremoney. Health food stores will have several choices available. I use Twin Lab Super C,yellow label.Vitamin C does not need refrigeration but you must keep the contents of the bottledry. Use a clean, dry measuring spoon. Because C cannot be stored by the body, it mustbe given every meal and can be continued indefinitely. A maximum dose of 250milligrams equals about 1/8 teaspoon. Because the presence of moisture causes it to losepotency, mix it into the food right before you feed. If everything is going well for acolony, I recommend giving only 125 milligrams or 250 for each two cats. If the weatherturns harsh or some other stress presents itself, try to increase the dose to 250 milligramsper cat. During trap-neuter-return projects when stress will skyrocket, give the full dosefor two days before trapping. During confinement and treatment, feed three or four smallmeals a day in order to get the C into them more frequently. If a cat objects to the sourflavor, as happens occasionally, cut the dose down by half or use just a few grains. Anyamount is better than zero. Remember to try adding a “bribe food,” something they lovethat has a strong flavor. You can also sprinkle brewer's yeast on top.Tomato sauce is a rich natural source of Vitamin C complex. If you know that acolony enjoys it as part of the food mix (most do), make sure to include it along with thesupplement in times of stress. I prefer Muir Glen organic tomato sauce. Mix 1 or 2tablespoons in a large 14 oz. can of cat food.Remember, Vitamin C cannot be stored by the body so always giving a little withevery meal is like a mini-insurance policy. Adding 2 tablespoons of tomato sauce to eachlarge can of cat food is a delicious way to accomplish this. Then, if there is inclement42
weather, loud construction work nearby, injury or any other stress, add up to 250 mg percat per meal of Vitamin C powder to a strong flavored food until the disruption is past.After the stress is over, go back to adding the tomato sauce to each meal.Because we are practicing prevention, caregivers may find it difficult at first topinpoint a clear demonstration of results. The benefits are mostly about what does nothappen. <strong>Cats</strong> do not die under anesthesia; wounds do not become infected; there is nooutbreak of respiratory infections shortly after a new cat arrives in the colony. Resistanceis high; the cats are more resilient.I would not feel even half as secure about managing a feral colony if I didn't have thehelp of Vitamin C, my trusty knight in shining armor, to back me up. Preventing urinary tract diseaseA colony’s diet may include a relatively large amount of dry food, either for reasonsof cost, convenience or weather conditions. The concern, especially with male cats, isthat ash in the dry food can result in crystals forming in the bladder, leading to acondition known as Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease. In the worst cases, whereblockages occur in males, the condition can be fatal. Unlike with a pet cat, who isnormally closely observed as a matter of normal routine, it can be difficult to detecturinary tract disease in a colony cat. Prevention is really a caretaker’s best strategy andfortunately, an excellent preventative does exist – D-mannose.As described by Dr. Michael Dym, VMD, a leading homeopathic and holisticveterinarian (www.doctordym.com), “Adding D-mannose to a colony's food may offerpreventative benefits for cats with underlying urinary tract issues, and may help protectmales at risk for urinary tract blockages. This natural glycolnutrient, which is naturallyfound in cranberries, binds to sites in the urinary tract where E coli bacteria attach, andtherefore clears the lining of the bladder and urethra of these type of bacteria, as well asharmful substances including kidney and bladder crystals.” It can also be used duringflare-ups of urinary tract symptoms or preventatively in cats predisposed to urinary tractdisease.According to Dr. Dym, in acute situations, D-mannose can be given in dosages ashigh as one level teaspoon (2 grams) every hour for up to 4 doses. It can be easilydissolved in water or added to the food. In more chronic situations, he recommendsdosing at 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon (250 to 500 mg) daily. It can safely be added to the dietlong term at this dose and is even safe to use in pregnant or nursing cats. Because it isnot digested or metabolized in the cat’s body, problems with toxicity associated with theuse of D-mannose have not been observed.At <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong>, we’ve administered D-mannose to cats with symptoms ofurinary tract disease and have seen the condition quickly clear up. Providing it in acolony’s food on a regular basis can help keep crystals and blockages from occurring inthe first place. D-mannose is relatively expensive, but even dosing once a week or duringtimes of heavy reliance on dry food will be a big help in maintaining the cats’ health.43
- Page 1 and 2: TNR HandbookThe Guide to Trap-Neute
- Page 3 and 4: Table of ContentsForeword by Susan
- Page 5 and 6: Chapter Ten: The Neighborhood Cats
- Page 7 and 8: ForewordOne of the first ferals I e
- Page 9: Introduction“If we keep ‘em in
- Page 12 and 13: 2. What is Trap-Neuter-Return?Trap-
- Page 14 and 15: c) Fewer nuisance complaints. As me
- Page 17 and 18: and as their hunger grows, they wil
- Page 19 and 20: 3. The TNR Process - An OverviewEve
- Page 21 and 22: After you’ve determined how many
- Page 23 and 24: for this purpose. Once you can talk
- Page 25 and 26: like the board of a homeowners asso
- Page 27 and 28: information provided because of the
- Page 29 and 30: act to discourage cats from enterin
- Page 31 and 32: epel. It operates on four “C” b
- Page 33 and 34: • Free-standing fencesPurrfect Fe
- Page 35 and 36: • Type of feeding stationThe perf
- Page 37 and 38: Amazon (www.amazon.com) for “Le B
- Page 39 and 40: will be drawn to this easily reache
- Page 41 and 42: a search for “heated water bowl
- Page 43 and 44: interior warm enough to prevent or
- Page 45 and 46: food works best for your budget, th
- Page 47: steroids, tranquilizers, anesthetic
- Page 52 and 53: • Feralvilla Outdoor Cat ShelterD
- Page 54 and 55: • Styrofoam boxesRestaurants and
- Page 56 and 57: Another option is the Snuggle Safe
- Page 58 and 59: apart. Knowing the correct number,
- Page 60 and 61: 4. Schedule the spay/neuterAfter yo
- Page 62 and 63: three more traps than the number of
- Page 64 and 65: Tomahawk Live Trap- Neighborhood Ca
- Page 66 and 67: 11 inches in height. In our opinion
- Page 68 and 69: trap are attached. The transfer doo
- Page 70 and 71: Feral cat densNeighborhood Cats Fer
- Page 72 and 73: drop trap (code: KITDT) - see Figur
- Page 74 and 75: That said, not every community offe
- Page 76 and 77: practice. In our experience, there
- Page 78 and 79: saving one day. Also remember, you
- Page 80 and 81: intrusions you and others make into
- Page 82 and 83: doing so. Don’t check too frequen
- Page 84 and 85: Winter trappingSome trappers in nor
- Page 86 and 87: around and inflict a severe bite or
- Page 88 and 89: The bottle-and-string method is use
- Page 90 and 91: you let her go right away, there is
- Page 92 and 93: If you might have to care for unwea
- Page 94 and 95: Unless a caretaker objects on relig
- Page 96 and 97: Caddie” by Tomahawk (see Figure 9
- Page 98 and 99:
effective, some experienced trapper
- Page 100 and 101:
feet long, and lean it up against a
- Page 102 and 103:
sodium hypochlorite on the label of
- Page 104 and 105:
PreparationsAs with any trapping, i
- Page 106 and 107:
4. Anchor the trap. Place a heavy o
- Page 108 and 109:
transfer cage, so the far end needs
- Page 110 and 111:
11. Caring for Cats in TrapsWhile t
- Page 112 and 113:
Feeding and cleaningThe traps shoul
- Page 114 and 115:
7. Secure the rear doorAfter you’
- Page 116 and 117:
Figure 12-1 shows the Setup fullyas
- Page 118 and 119:
unlikely the cat would be able to o
- Page 120 and 121:
• Special instructionsAny special
- Page 122 and 123:
The FVRCP vaccine, also known as th
- Page 124 and 125:
difficult without the ability to te
- Page 126 and 127:
windpipe and cut off her breathing.
- Page 128 and 129:
“snap” test, it produces a resu
- Page 130 and 131:
In our experience, the primary caus
- Page 132 and 133:
Before releasing a spayed female, r
- Page 134 and 135:
has been created and one set of cat
- Page 136 and 137:
and water bowls - see the Feral Cat
- Page 138 and 139:
enforcement agency will tell you if
- Page 140 and 141:
long will show signs of being socia
- Page 142 and 143:
feral at all yet and may tame immed
- Page 144 and 145:
When they’re verycomfortable with
- Page 146 and 147:
socialize enough, which is very lik
- Page 148 and 149:
When the cat no longer uses the cag
- Page 150 and 151:
alternatives, like scratching posts
- Page 152 and 153:
• Where to lookIn order to attrac
- Page 154 and 155:
In case you’re unable to return t
- Page 156 and 157:
18. Feral Cat ResourcesBooks Implem
- Page 158 and 159:
Petco Foundation (4Rs Project Suppo
- Page 160 and 161:
ToolkitsAction Kit: Advocating for
- Page 162 and 163:
Appendix BHOW TO BUILDTHE NEIGHBORH
- Page 164 and 165:
5. Place piece E two inches back fr
- Page 166 and 167:
Trap LogProject/Colony: ___________
- Page 168:
In memory ofBobby Kergis1952 - 2011