correct proportions are one teaspoon of either calcium lactate or bone meal for each onepound of ground beef.Ground beef with its calcium additive can be mixed into wet food or fed as an extradish on the side. Mixing it with dry food creates a real mess so you want to avoid that. Ifyou want to go the extra yard, add chopped-up and cooked broccoli, zucchini or carrots tothe beef/calcium recipe. The vegetables need to be cooked, preferably steamed, or thecats won’t be able to digest them. Dried barley is also nutritious. Never add onions inany form – they’re potentially toxic for cats in even a small amount (like chocolate).Fresh (emphasis on “fresh”) ground beef, mixed with a calcium supplement, can befed to the cats raw and uncooked. Raw meat is the most natural diet for cats who, afterall, when they catch a mouse, don’t cook it first before dining. But raw meat must befresh, meaning it was put out that day at a reliable store and shows no outward signs ofbrowning. If it concerns you to feed meat raw, then lightly cook it. It will still greatlyimprove the quality of the cats’ diet. Chicken and turkey can also be used in place of theground beef (adding calcium in the same proportions: one teaspoon per pound).However, because of its greater susceptibility to bacterial buildup, it’s recommended youdo cook poultry unless it’s very fresh and organic.Don’t feed the cats only the ground beef mixture described here, but use it as asupplement. If you want to feed only a self-prepared raw or cooked meat diet, you needto learn more about cat nutrition, including what vitamins and minerals to add. Thesebooks are excellent resources for learning more about preparing your own cat food: “The Natural Cat,” by Anitra Frazier (Penguin Books, 2008) “Dr. Pitcairn's New Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs & <strong>Cats</strong>,” byDr. Richard Pitcairn, DVM (Rodale Press, 2005)If you’re interested in learning more about what goes into manufactured cat food,Ann M. Martin has written excellent and highly informative books on the topic: “Food Pets Die For (2 nd ed.),” by Ann N. Martin (NewSage Press, 2002) “Protect Your Pet: More Shocking Facts to Consider,” by Ann N. Martin(NewSage Press, 2001) Vitamin C to the Rescueby Anitra Frazier, author of “The Natural Cat”It is certainly easier, cheaper and a lot more pleasant to prevent illness than it is totrap a sick cat, transport him to a vet and then try to diagnose and treat the frightenedanimal.Vitamin C, the first vitamin discovered by humankind, is truly a friend to thecaregiver of a feral colony. An efficient healer and powerful protector, it works like anutritional knight in shining armor fighting against invasions of germs and viruses andbattling stress of all kinds. Germs, viruses, dirt, x-rays and chemicals such as antibiotics,40
steroids, tranquilizers, anesthetics, pesticides and thepreservatives in commercial pet foods have all beenshown to use up large quantities of Vitamin C.In addition, this versatile vitamin is user friendly.It is water soluble and cannot be stored by the body soan overdose is, for all practical purposes, almostimpossible. While 250 milligrams is the maximumdose that a cat can absorb and put to use at one time, ifmore is given, the excess will simply be excreted viathe urine and none will linger behind in the body.Healthy cats can make some Vitamin C in theirintestine. The operative words here are "healthy" and"some." <strong>Cats</strong> can manufacture enough C only if thediet is rich in all the other nutrients they need and onlyif daily stresses do not become too numerous, too extreme or too prolonged. Stressessuch as extreme heat or cold, fighting, being wounded or hurt, being trapped or caged,loud noises, strong, unpleasant smells or forced change of territory use up Vitamin C atan alarming rate. Even a healthy, well-nourished cat can use up more Vitamin C than hecan produce if faced with a high level of stress. Depletion of this vitamin leaves a cateasy prey to every germ or virus that happens along.Any trap-neuter-return project will include the cats being trapped, caged, undergoingsurgery and anesthesia and having other medications administered. These are allpotentially stressful to the cats and can result in upper respiratory and other diseases.What we need here is a knight in shining armor to bring the cats safely through all this.Enter Vitamin C. This inexpensive and easily obtainable supplement will greatlyenhance any cat's chance for a full recovery.There are three main types of Vitamin C in general use. Each has its own particularstrengths and drawbacks, but all will provide Vitamin C to the cats:• Ascorbic Acid is the cheapest and most popular form of Vitamin C. It isreadily available in pill or powder form from health food stores andpharmacies. On the plus side, ascorbic acid helps keep the urine acidic,thereby preventing bacterial growth and inhibiting formation of crystals.Here’s how it works: a cat’s body can absorb only 250 mg and no more atone time. If more is administered, the body will dispose of the excess bysending it out in the urine. Ascorbic acid raises the acidity of the urine onthe way out, which is why holistic caregivers use it in doses greater than250 milligrams to help dissolve bladder stones and crystals. The onlydrawback to this form of Vitamin C is its acid or sour flavor – cats don’tlike it if too much is given. I counteract this by mixing it into a food witha strong flavor of its own. Petguard Savory Seafood or Fish, Chicken &Liver do the job nicely. For really finicky cats, I give only a half dose(125 mg) or even a quarter (62.5 mg).• Sodium Ascorbate provides the same amount of Vitamin C as ascorbicacid and is almost as cheap. If more than 250 mg is given at one time, the41
- Page 1 and 2: TNR HandbookThe Guide to Trap-Neute
- Page 3 and 4: Table of ContentsForeword by Susan
- Page 5 and 6: Chapter Ten: The Neighborhood Cats
- Page 7 and 8: ForewordOne of the first ferals I e
- Page 9: Introduction“If we keep ‘em in
- Page 12 and 13: 2. What is Trap-Neuter-Return?Trap-
- Page 14 and 15: c) Fewer nuisance complaints. As me
- Page 17 and 18: and as their hunger grows, they wil
- Page 19 and 20: 3. The TNR Process - An OverviewEve
- Page 21 and 22: After you’ve determined how many
- Page 23 and 24: for this purpose. Once you can talk
- Page 25 and 26: like the board of a homeowners asso
- Page 27 and 28: information provided because of the
- Page 29 and 30: act to discourage cats from enterin
- Page 31 and 32: epel. It operates on four “C” b
- Page 33 and 34: • Free-standing fencesPurrfect Fe
- Page 35 and 36: • Type of feeding stationThe perf
- Page 37 and 38: Amazon (www.amazon.com) for “Le B
- Page 39 and 40: will be drawn to this easily reache
- Page 41 and 42: a search for “heated water bowl
- Page 43 and 44: interior warm enough to prevent or
- Page 45: food works best for your budget, th
- Page 49: weather, loud construction work nea
- Page 52 and 53: • Feralvilla Outdoor Cat ShelterD
- Page 54 and 55: • Styrofoam boxesRestaurants and
- Page 56 and 57: Another option is the Snuggle Safe
- Page 58 and 59: apart. Knowing the correct number,
- Page 60 and 61: 4. Schedule the spay/neuterAfter yo
- Page 62 and 63: three more traps than the number of
- Page 64 and 65: Tomahawk Live Trap- Neighborhood Ca
- Page 66 and 67: 11 inches in height. In our opinion
- Page 68 and 69: trap are attached. The transfer doo
- Page 70 and 71: Feral cat densNeighborhood Cats Fer
- Page 72 and 73: drop trap (code: KITDT) - see Figur
- Page 74 and 75: That said, not every community offe
- Page 76 and 77: practice. In our experience, there
- Page 78 and 79: saving one day. Also remember, you
- Page 80 and 81: intrusions you and others make into
- Page 82 and 83: doing so. Don’t check too frequen
- Page 84 and 85: Winter trappingSome trappers in nor
- Page 86 and 87: around and inflict a severe bite or
- Page 88 and 89: The bottle-and-string method is use
- Page 90 and 91: you let her go right away, there is
- Page 92 and 93: If you might have to care for unwea
- Page 94 and 95: Unless a caretaker objects on relig
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Caddie” by Tomahawk (see Figure 9
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effective, some experienced trapper
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feet long, and lean it up against a
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sodium hypochlorite on the label of
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PreparationsAs with any trapping, i
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4. Anchor the trap. Place a heavy o
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transfer cage, so the far end needs
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11. Caring for Cats in TrapsWhile t
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Feeding and cleaningThe traps shoul
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7. Secure the rear doorAfter you’
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Figure 12-1 shows the Setup fullyas
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unlikely the cat would be able to o
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• Special instructionsAny special
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The FVRCP vaccine, also known as th
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difficult without the ability to te
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windpipe and cut off her breathing.
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“snap” test, it produces a resu
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In our experience, the primary caus
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Before releasing a spayed female, r
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has been created and one set of cat
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and water bowls - see the Feral Cat
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enforcement agency will tell you if
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long will show signs of being socia
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feral at all yet and may tame immed
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When they’re verycomfortable with
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socialize enough, which is very lik
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When the cat no longer uses the cag
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alternatives, like scratching posts
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• Where to lookIn order to attrac
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In case you’re unable to return t
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18. Feral Cat ResourcesBooks Implem
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Petco Foundation (4Rs Project Suppo
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ToolkitsAction Kit: Advocating for
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Appendix BHOW TO BUILDTHE NEIGHBORH
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5. Place piece E two inches back fr
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Trap LogProject/Colony: ___________
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In memory ofBobby Kergis1952 - 2011