turkey is the largest ingredient. If the first ingredient is “corn meal” followed by“turkey,” then the food contains more corn meal than turkey.It may not be readily apparent what some of the ingredients listed actually are. Forexample, many lower quality foods list “by-products” as an ingredient. The label mightlist “meat by-products,” “poultry by-products,” “fish by-products,” etc. Most peopleassume this is some part of the animal normally consumed by people, too. In fact, byproductsare the waste parts of the slaughtered animal. They may include feathers, hair,hooves, eyeballs, moldy, diseased or rancid meat rejected for human consumption, fecalwaste, or any other part of the animal you’d have thought would be tossed out.If a food lists by-products on the ingredients label, especially if it is one of the firstfew ingredients listed, don’t be fooled by the tasty-looking sauces, neatly cut slices orartificial coloring. By-products are almost always less nutritious than their wholecounterparts no matter how nicely they’re dressed up, meaning the ingredient “beef” willbe healthier than “beef by-products.” Don’t assume either that a food full of by-productsmust be healthy because your cats love to eat it. Poorer quality foods often have addedsweeteners and fish flavoring to hook your felines.Pet food manufacturers use by-products because they’re cheap. This is why, with petfood, you usually get what you pay for. Many brands of food available in high-volumestores like supermarkets or large discount stores which are inexpensive often contain byproductsas one of the first ingredients listed on their labels. But beware, there are somebrands which trick people into believing they’re high quality simply because they costmore, but they too consist largely of by-products or other inferior ingredients. Alwaysread the label and don’t go by price alone.Another ingredient to watch out for is any kind of meat “meal,” such as chicken, fishor turkey meal. In the cheaper brands of food, meal is often the same waste parts of thecarcass as by-products, just ground into an unrecognizable form. “Animal digest” isanother ingredient that can be of questionable nutritional value.What you want to see listed first on the ingredients label are whole meats, such as“chicken,” “beef,” or “turkey.” With few exceptions, the better brands will not containany form of by-products or meat meal.Another common ingredient used heavily in lower quality foods, especially dry food,is some form of corn. The label might read “corn meal,” “ground yellow corn” orsomething similar. <strong>Cats</strong> are carnivores and do not satisfy their basic nutritional needsfrom grains. If corn is the first ingredient on the label, then the largest part of the foodconsists of something that has little nutritional value for the cat and is basically onlyfiller. It would be like having a meal yourself with the largest portion being potato chips.You’ll get full, but it’s hardly a healthy diet.Also check the ingredients for unnecessary sweeteners like corn syrup, blueberries,brown rice syrup or beets. These all contain sugars meant to improve the taste. Any kindof chemical, such as artificial coloring, artificial flavors, scents and artificialpreservatives, should be avoided, if possible. Artificial preservatives include BHA,BHT, propyl gallate, nitrates and benzoate of soda.Knowing the real makeup of cat food empowers you as a caretaker to make educatedchoices. It doesn’t mean you’re doing something wrong if you decide to purchase foodscontaining by-products or corn meal. The reality is that the higher quality brands withoutthese ingredients tend to be much more expensive. The bottom line is whatever choice of38
food works best for your budget, the cats are better off because you care enough todonate your time and funds towards feeding them.• Wet vs. dry foodGenerally speaking, a wet food containing a certain quality of ingredients will havemore nutritional value than a dry food of the same quality. This is because the dry foodgoes through a baking process which dries out the meats and, in so doing, loses some ofthe ingredients’ nutritional content. In many cheaper brands of dry food, vitamins andminerals are added before the baking process, with the result they are often destroyed inthe oven. The better quality brands add the supplements after the baking, which isanother reason why they cost more.There are some common misconceptions about dry food. One is that it should be leftout all day so a cat can eat whenever he wants. In fact, this practice, especially for petcats, is potentially damaging to a feline’s health. <strong>Cats</strong> in the wild are not “grazers” likecows, who are constantly eating. Instead, they are “feast and famine” animals. They killtheir prey, gorge upon it and then might not eat again for several days. The digestivesystems of the two types of animals are not the same. Feast and famine animals needtime away from food for their systems to stop working and clean themselves out. If theyare constantly eating or even constantly smelling food, their digestive systems never turnoff. As the cat ages, this can result in kidney and liver disease.With indoor cats, the optimal way to feed is to leave food out twice a day for no morethan 20 to 30 minutes, then take what’s left over away and don’t put out more food untilthe next meal. With feral cats, that kind of routine is also optimal, but often not possibleand a steady supply of dry food must be left out during at least some part of the day toensure all the cats in the colony get fed. It’s not as much of a problem though becauseoutdoor cats tend to not be as obsessed with eating as their indoor counterparts and areless likely to hang out at the food bowl all day.Another myth is dry food is good for cleaning a cat’s teeth. Possibly dry foodprovides some minimal exercise for the jaw, but that’s about it. Prolonged chewing andgnawing at something hard is required for a cat’s teeth to be scraped clean. Raw bones,especially raw chicken necks, will achieve this. <strong>Cats</strong> can digest raw bones and in thewild they derive the calcium their bodies need from them. The bones and necks must beraw because cooked bones can splinter and cause injury. Cooked bones should never befed to a cat. As with raw meat, it’s important uncooked bones or necks be very fresh toavoid bacterial buildup and illness. With chicken bones, using organic only isrecommended.• Adding ground beefOne way to substantially and inexpensively improve the nutritional content of lowquality cat food is to supplement it with ground beef, preferably ground chuck because ofits high fat content, which is good for cats. Unadulterated, 100% meat is great for cats.If you do add ground beef though, always remember you must also mix in the correctamount of calcium in order to balance the phosphate content of the meat. Otherwise, youcould cause the cats to develop frail bones and other long-term health problems. The39
- Page 1 and 2: TNR HandbookThe Guide to Trap-Neute
- Page 3 and 4: Table of ContentsForeword by Susan
- Page 5 and 6: Chapter Ten: The Neighborhood Cats
- Page 7 and 8: ForewordOne of the first ferals I e
- Page 9: Introduction“If we keep ‘em in
- Page 12 and 13: 2. What is Trap-Neuter-Return?Trap-
- Page 14 and 15: c) Fewer nuisance complaints. As me
- Page 17 and 18: and as their hunger grows, they wil
- Page 19 and 20: 3. The TNR Process - An OverviewEve
- Page 21 and 22: After you’ve determined how many
- Page 23 and 24: for this purpose. Once you can talk
- Page 25 and 26: like the board of a homeowners asso
- Page 27 and 28: information provided because of the
- Page 29 and 30: act to discourage cats from enterin
- Page 31 and 32: epel. It operates on four “C” b
- Page 33 and 34: • Free-standing fencesPurrfect Fe
- Page 35 and 36: • Type of feeding stationThe perf
- Page 37 and 38: Amazon (www.amazon.com) for “Le B
- Page 39 and 40: will be drawn to this easily reache
- Page 41 and 42: a search for “heated water bowl
- Page 43: interior warm enough to prevent or
- Page 47 and 48: steroids, tranquilizers, anesthetic
- Page 49: weather, loud construction work nea
- Page 52 and 53: • Feralvilla Outdoor Cat ShelterD
- Page 54 and 55: • Styrofoam boxesRestaurants and
- Page 56 and 57: Another option is the Snuggle Safe
- Page 58 and 59: apart. Knowing the correct number,
- Page 60 and 61: 4. Schedule the spay/neuterAfter yo
- Page 62 and 63: three more traps than the number of
- Page 64 and 65: Tomahawk Live Trap- Neighborhood Ca
- Page 66 and 67: 11 inches in height. In our opinion
- Page 68 and 69: trap are attached. The transfer doo
- Page 70 and 71: Feral cat densNeighborhood Cats Fer
- Page 72 and 73: drop trap (code: KITDT) - see Figur
- Page 74 and 75: That said, not every community offe
- Page 76 and 77: practice. In our experience, there
- Page 78 and 79: saving one day. Also remember, you
- Page 80 and 81: intrusions you and others make into
- Page 82 and 83: doing so. Don’t check too frequen
- Page 84 and 85: Winter trappingSome trappers in nor
- Page 86 and 87: around and inflict a severe bite or
- Page 88 and 89: The bottle-and-string method is use
- Page 90 and 91: you let her go right away, there is
- Page 92 and 93: If you might have to care for unwea
- Page 94 and 95:
Unless a caretaker objects on relig
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Caddie” by Tomahawk (see Figure 9
- Page 98 and 99:
effective, some experienced trapper
- Page 100 and 101:
feet long, and lean it up against a
- Page 102 and 103:
sodium hypochlorite on the label of
- Page 104 and 105:
PreparationsAs with any trapping, i
- Page 106 and 107:
4. Anchor the trap. Place a heavy o
- Page 108 and 109:
transfer cage, so the far end needs
- Page 110 and 111:
11. Caring for Cats in TrapsWhile t
- Page 112 and 113:
Feeding and cleaningThe traps shoul
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7. Secure the rear doorAfter you’
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Figure 12-1 shows the Setup fullyas
- Page 118 and 119:
unlikely the cat would be able to o
- Page 120 and 121:
• Special instructionsAny special
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The FVRCP vaccine, also known as th
- Page 124 and 125:
difficult without the ability to te
- Page 126 and 127:
windpipe and cut off her breathing.
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“snap” test, it produces a resu
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In our experience, the primary caus
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Before releasing a spayed female, r
- Page 134 and 135:
has been created and one set of cat
- Page 136 and 137:
and water bowls - see the Feral Cat
- Page 138 and 139:
enforcement agency will tell you if
- Page 140 and 141:
long will show signs of being socia
- Page 142 and 143:
feral at all yet and may tame immed
- Page 144 and 145:
When they’re verycomfortable with
- Page 146 and 147:
socialize enough, which is very lik
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When the cat no longer uses the cag
- Page 150 and 151:
alternatives, like scratching posts
- Page 152 and 153:
• Where to lookIn order to attrac
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In case you’re unable to return t
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18. Feral Cat ResourcesBooks Implem
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Petco Foundation (4Rs Project Suppo
- Page 160 and 161:
ToolkitsAction Kit: Advocating for
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Appendix BHOW TO BUILDTHE NEIGHBORH
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5. Place piece E two inches back fr
- Page 166 and 167:
Trap LogProject/Colony: ___________
- Page 168:
In memory ofBobby Kergis1952 - 2011