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• Barriers to digging<strong>Cats</strong> may be attracted to gardens and flower beds because they like digging in the soiland doing their business. Creating physical barriers to digging is one way to keep themaway. Products or items include:Cat Scat Mats from Gardener’s SupplyThese are plastic mats with flexible spikes sticking up out of them.You press them into the soil, spikes facing upwards. While they’reharmless to cats and other animals, they’re irritating and discourageexcavation. Go to Gardener’s Supply (www.gardeners.com) or call 1-888-833-1412.RocksCover exposed ground with rocks that have rough surfaces to deter acat from touching or trying to move them.LatticeLay lattice fencing on the ground prior to planting, then plant flowersor seeds in the openings.• Make an Outdoor Litter boxOne way to keep the cats from using the garden or the lawn to poop or pee is bygiving them somewhere more attractive to go. A child’s sandbox, strategically situatedin a far corner of the yard, should do the trick. Regular sandbox sand is inexpensive. Itshould be scooped out regularly and, occasionally, completely replaced. A large pile ofpeat moss, approximately four feet square and eight inches deep, has also been reportedto be effective. It too should be scooped out regularly and, once a month or so, entirelyreplaced.If you want the outdoor litter box to be contained, you can make one out of a large 30or 55 gallon Rubbermaid storage bin (also called a storage “tote”). Using a box-cutter,slice open a doorway in one of the narrower sides of the bin, making the bottom of thedoorway several inches above the ground. An 8” x 8” opening will work. Then fill thebin up to the bottom of the doorway with regular sandbox sand or, if you prefer, cat litter.Cover the bin with its lid. If you can, put a couple of pieces of the cats' stool in the sandto help draw them over. Scoop occasionally and once a month or so, dump and replacethe sand or litter.You can also put a regular litter box with litter inside the storage bin after you’ve cutopen a doorway. You’ll likely then need to clean it out on a daily basis.2. Containment systemsWhen possible, the best way to avoid problems with neighbors is to keep the catsconfined to your own backyard or property. Special fencing is available to accomplishthis.26
• Free-standing fencesPurrfect FenceThe Purrfect Fence is made up of metal posts and plastic grid fencingwhich blends in well with its surroundings. Inwardly arched topsprevent climbing over the fence and ground stakes every two feetprevent digging under. It can be installed around very large openspaces with your budget being the only real limitation. The producthas been installed at the Hemingway House in Key West, Florida,keeping the famous six-toed cats from wandering off the grounds andinto the neighborhood. Discounts are available for 501(c)(3) rescuesand shelters. Go to www.purrfectfence.com or call 1-888-280-4066.• Attachments to an existing fenceAttachments can be added to the top of an existing fence to keep the cats fromclimbing over. These systems consist of inward leaning posts and special fencingmaterial. Before ordering, make sure the product you want to purchase complies withany zoning requirements in your area, particularly height restrictions on fences. There area few to choose from:Purrfect FenceThe company makes a system which can be added to existing fences aswell as the free-standing system previously mentioned. Discounts areavailable for 501(c)(3) rescues and shelters. Go towww.purrfectfence.com or call 1-888-280-4066.Cat Fence-InGo to www.catfencein.com or call 1-888-738-9099.Affordable Cat FenceGo to www.catfence.com or call 1-888-840-2287.27
Page 1 and 2: TNR HandbookThe Guide to Trap-Neute
Page 3 and 4: Table of ContentsForeword by Susan
Page 5 and 6: Chapter Ten: The Neighborhood Cats
Page 7 and 8: ForewordOne of the first ferals I e
Page 9: Introduction“If we keep ‘em in
Page 12 and 13: 2. What is Trap-Neuter-Return?Trap-
Page 14 and 15: c) Fewer nuisance complaints. As me
Page 17 and 18: and as their hunger grows, they wil
Page 19 and 20: 3. The TNR Process - An OverviewEve
Page 21 and 22: After you’ve determined how many
Page 23 and 24: for this purpose. Once you can talk
Page 25 and 26: like the board of a homeowners asso
Page 27 and 28: information provided because of the
Page 29 and 30: act to discourage cats from enterin
Page 31: epel. It operates on four “C” b
Page 35 and 36: • Type of feeding stationThe perf
Page 37 and 38: Amazon (www.amazon.com) for “Le B
Page 39 and 40: will be drawn to this easily reache
Page 41 and 42: a search for “heated water bowl
Page 43 and 44: interior warm enough to prevent or
Page 45 and 46: food works best for your budget, th
Page 47 and 48: steroids, tranquilizers, anesthetic
Page 49: weather, loud construction work nea
Page 52 and 53: • Feralvilla Outdoor Cat ShelterD
Page 54 and 55: • Styrofoam boxesRestaurants and
Page 56 and 57: Another option is the Snuggle Safe
Page 58 and 59: apart. Knowing the correct number,
Page 60 and 61: 4. Schedule the spay/neuterAfter yo
Page 62 and 63: three more traps than the number of
Page 64 and 65: Tomahawk Live Trap- Neighborhood Ca
Page 66 and 67: 11 inches in height. In our opinion
Page 68 and 69: trap are attached. The transfer doo
Page 70 and 71: Feral cat densNeighborhood Cats Fer
Page 72 and 73: drop trap (code: KITDT) - see Figur
Page 74 and 75: That said, not every community offe
Page 76 and 77: practice. In our experience, there
Page 78 and 79: saving one day. Also remember, you
Page 80 and 81: intrusions you and others make into
Page 82 and 83:
doing so. Don’t check too frequen
Page 84 and 85:
Winter trappingSome trappers in nor
Page 86 and 87:
around and inflict a severe bite or
Page 88 and 89:
The bottle-and-string method is use
Page 90 and 91:
you let her go right away, there is
Page 92 and 93:
If you might have to care for unwea
Page 94 and 95:
Unless a caretaker objects on relig
Page 96 and 97:
Caddie” by Tomahawk (see Figure 9
Page 98 and 99:
effective, some experienced trapper
Page 100 and 101:
feet long, and lean it up against a
Page 102 and 103:
sodium hypochlorite on the label of
Page 104 and 105:
PreparationsAs with any trapping, i
Page 106 and 107:
4. Anchor the trap. Place a heavy o
Page 108 and 109:
transfer cage, so the far end needs
Page 110 and 111:
11. Caring for Cats in TrapsWhile t
Page 112 and 113:
Feeding and cleaningThe traps shoul
Page 114 and 115:
7. Secure the rear doorAfter you’
Page 116 and 117:
Figure 12-1 shows the Setup fullyas
Page 118 and 119:
unlikely the cat would be able to o
Page 120 and 121:
• Special instructionsAny special
Page 122 and 123:
The FVRCP vaccine, also known as th
Page 124 and 125:
difficult without the ability to te
Page 126 and 127:
windpipe and cut off her breathing.
Page 128 and 129:
“snap” test, it produces a resu
Page 130 and 131:
In our experience, the primary caus
Page 132 and 133:
Before releasing a spayed female, r
Page 134 and 135:
has been created and one set of cat
Page 136 and 137:
and water bowls - see the Feral Cat
Page 138 and 139:
enforcement agency will tell you if
Page 140 and 141:
long will show signs of being socia
Page 142 and 143:
feral at all yet and may tame immed
Page 144 and 145:
When they’re verycomfortable with
Page 146 and 147:
socialize enough, which is very lik
Page 148 and 149:
When the cat no longer uses the cag
Page 150 and 151:
alternatives, like scratching posts
Page 152 and 153:
• Where to lookIn order to attrac
Page 154 and 155:
In case you’re unable to return t
Page 156 and 157:
18. Feral Cat ResourcesBooks Implem
Page 158 and 159:
Petco Foundation (4Rs Project Suppo
Page 160 and 161:
ToolkitsAction Kit: Advocating for
Page 162 and 163:
Appendix BHOW TO BUILDTHE NEIGHBORH
Page 164 and 165:
5. Place piece E two inches back fr
Page 166 and 167:
Trap LogProject/Colony: ___________
Page 168:
In memory ofBobby Kergis1952 - 2011
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