When they’re verycomfortable with your pettingthem, which again can take a fewdays, you can start to pick themup. Once again, increase thecontact slowly. At first, only liftthem up slightly off the ground fora second or two. When they’re okwith that, hold them a bit longer.Eventually, place them on yourlap, but don’t force them to staythere if they want to jump off.photo: Meredith WeissContinue increasing contact untilthey’re lying in your lap and purring as you stroke them. The length of this process –from physical contact during play to petting to holding at length – will depend on thetemperament and age of the kitten. It’s an excellent strategy, if you’re able, to involvemore than one person in the process so the kittens don’t socialize only to yourself. Onceothers can hold them and they enjoy it, the socialization is complete.Another technique besides play for teaching feral kittens to touch and be touched isbribing them with food. Start off putting some very smelly and tasty food, like tuna, on aplate and let them eat it undisturbed while you remain at a distance. Next time, placeyour hand a foot or so away. Let the kittens come and eat the tuna without moving yourhand. Each time you put the food down, move your hand a little closer. After the kittensare eating with your hand only inches away, start putting the tuna on a plastic spoon, holdit out and let them lick it off. Once they’re doing that, then sit on the floor and put thespoon on your knee (while wearing pants). After they’ve gotten comfortable eating whiletouching you, put the food on a plate in your lap. When they’re fearlessly standing onyour leg and eating off a plate in your lap, you can start touching them. Just as with theplay method, start slowly with a brief stroke or two and gradually increase the amount ofcontact until you’re able to hold and lift them.If you have a litter of kittens who are especially wild, try working with them one-ononeinstead of letting all the kittens out at once to play with each other. This way you’llgrab each one’s full attention as they play or eat tasty treats.With a particularly fearful kitten who resists these methods, try wrapping him in atowel (to immobilize him), then put him in your lap and pet him on the head and over thetowel. Start off doing this briefly and, over the course of several days, slowly increasethe time period he’s held. When he’s comfortable and appears to enjoy the touching,then you can try doing it without the towel.Another method for very wild kittens is to start them off in a smaller cage (like 36" Lx 21" W x 24" H) instead of a larger space like a big play pen or bathroom. Put a litterbox and a small, open cardboard box inside the cage and some toys. Once the kitten isused to his surroundings, which may take a day or two, use a back scratcher or a long,soft-haired paint brush to reach through the bars and touch him. He may hiss and reactpoorly at first, but eventually he’ll realize it feels good and start to purr. At this point,you can try using your fingers through the bars, though be on the alert in case he tries toscratch you. Play with the kitten through the bars, too, with a Cat Dancer or similar toy138
and give him lots of little treats – anything that gives him a positive association with youis good. Eventually, when trust has been built up, move the kitten into a confined spacelike the bathroom and start using the play and food techniques described earlier.The more contact feral kittens have with you, the faster they will socialize. This isvery important at the beginning of the socialization process when the kittens, especiallythe younger ones, may identify you as their surrogate parent. So play, feed and talk withthem as often as you can. Interacting with them for short periods several times a day isbetter than being with them for one long period and then leaving them alone the rest ofthe time. As mentioned, it’s helpful with feral kittens to have multiple people handlethem. This way, you avoid the risk of having them only socialize to you and not becomeadoptable to others. This risk is higher with feral kittens older than eight weeks so it’sespecially important with that age group to have more than one person involved in thesocialization process.Even young kittens who quickly learn to become house cats will usually still retainsome feral characteristics. They may be extra sensitive to changes in their environmentor have more than the usual fear of leaving their territory, like going to the veterinarian.If you move and their territory changes, they may at first revert to feral behavior. It’sbest to anticipate these reactions and take steps to lessen the cat’s stress. For example, ifyou move, don’t let your former feral loose right away into the whole house, but start himoff in one room and give him a nice quiet place to hide. When he’s gotten used to thingsand acts comfortable in the confined space, then gradually introduce him to other roomsone at a time, until he’s comfortable in your entire house.For more ideas, see the step-by-step guide on taming feral kittens bythe Feral Cat Coalition of San Diego, CA: www.feralcat.com/taming.html Socializing feral teenagers & adults• Should you try?Socializing a feral cat over sixteen weeks old can be a time-consuming, difficult taskwith uncertain results. The older the cat, past the age of sixteen weeks, the more likely hewill socialize only to a certain degree and then only to the person taming him. This ofcourse can make him difficult to adopt. If a potential adopter has a choice between aneight week old kitten who curls up in her lap purring the first time they meet or a fourmonth old feral kitten who you know is a lovely creature but who hides when the adoptercomes over or scrambles to get out of her grasp, you can see the problem.Even if you decide you’re up for the challenge, there are several other factors toconsider before you attempt to socialize a feral teenager or adult.The first question is what is your plan for placement of the cat? If you personally aregoing to adopt her and can accept she may or may not ever become a pet in the traditionalsense – one you can pick up, hold, etc. – then bringing her indoors will likely work outjust fine. On the other hand, if your goal is to totally tame the cat so someone as yetunknown will want to adopt her, that’s much more difficult to achieve. If the cat does not139
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TNR HandbookThe Guide to Trap-Neute
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Table of ContentsForeword by Susan
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Chapter Ten: The Neighborhood Cats
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ForewordOne of the first ferals I e
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Introduction“If we keep ‘em in
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2. What is Trap-Neuter-Return?Trap-
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c) Fewer nuisance complaints. As me
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and as their hunger grows, they wil
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3. The TNR Process - An OverviewEve
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After you’ve determined how many
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for this purpose. Once you can talk
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like the board of a homeowners asso
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information provided because of the
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act to discourage cats from enterin
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epel. It operates on four “C” b
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• Free-standing fencesPurrfect Fe
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• Type of feeding stationThe perf
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Amazon (www.amazon.com) for “Le B
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will be drawn to this easily reache
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a search for “heated water bowl
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interior warm enough to prevent or
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food works best for your budget, th
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steroids, tranquilizers, anesthetic
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weather, loud construction work nea
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• Feralvilla Outdoor Cat ShelterD
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• Styrofoam boxesRestaurants and
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Another option is the Snuggle Safe
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apart. Knowing the correct number,
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4. Schedule the spay/neuterAfter yo
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three more traps than the number of
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Tomahawk Live Trap- Neighborhood Ca
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11 inches in height. In our opinion
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trap are attached. The transfer doo
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Feral cat densNeighborhood Cats Fer
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drop trap (code: KITDT) - see Figur
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That said, not every community offe
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practice. In our experience, there
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saving one day. Also remember, you
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intrusions you and others make into
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doing so. Don’t check too frequen
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Winter trappingSome trappers in nor
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around and inflict a severe bite or
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The bottle-and-string method is use
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you let her go right away, there is
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If you might have to care for unwea
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- Page 96 and 97: Caddie” by Tomahawk (see Figure 9
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- Page 100 and 101: feet long, and lean it up against a
- Page 102 and 103: sodium hypochlorite on the label of
- Page 104 and 105: PreparationsAs with any trapping, i
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- Page 108 and 109: transfer cage, so the far end needs
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- Page 116 and 117: Figure 12-1 shows the Setup fullyas
- Page 118 and 119: unlikely the cat would be able to o
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- Page 128 and 129: “snap” test, it produces a resu
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- Page 132 and 133: Before releasing a spayed female, r
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- Page 140 and 141: long will show signs of being socia
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- Page 148 and 149: When the cat no longer uses the cag
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- Page 156 and 157: 18. Feral Cat ResourcesBooks Implem
- Page 158 and 159: Petco Foundation (4Rs Project Suppo
- Page 160 and 161: ToolkitsAction Kit: Advocating for
- Page 162 and 163: Appendix BHOW TO BUILDTHE NEIGHBORH
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- Page 166 and 167: Trap LogProject/Colony: ___________
- Page 168: In memory ofBobby Kergis1952 - 2011