sodium hypochlorite on the label of the bleach container. Most “ultra” bleaches will havethe necessary amount, but do check. Most of the time, you shouldn’t use more than a1:32 solution because bleach is corrosive to metal and repeated cleanings with too stronga solution will ruin your traps and other equipment. If ringworm may be present, thenyou’ll need a stronger solution to kill any spores. Several cleanings with 1:10 bleach towater solution will kill ringworm spores or one cleaning with undiluted bleach.To dip the traps in what is close enough to a diluted 1:32 bleach solution, use a 30gallon Rubbermaid or similar garbage can. Fill the can a few inches from the top withwater and then pour in a gallon of bleach. Be sure to use rubber gloves and eyeprotection, like safety goggles, to prevent burns from splashing. Wearing pants and along-sleeve shirt will give you added protection. Dip one end of the trap into the can,then lift it up, turn it over and dip the other end.Remove the trap from the can as soon as it’s been fully dipped, place it on the groundand let it air dry with the bleach solution on it. Once the traps are dry, thoroughly rinsethem off with a hose, removing all bleach residue. At all times, move the traps slowlyand carefully to avoid getting the bleach solution on yourself, but if you accidentally doget some on your skin, wash it off immediately and apply Aloe Vera gel to mitigate anyburns.photo: Meredith Weiss96
10. The <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong> Drop TrapA drop trap can be an essential tool for anyone doingTNR on a regular basis. <strong>Cats</strong> too afraid to enter the narrow,confined space of a box trap often show no fear of walkingunder a drop trap. It can be used to catch the holdoutsduring or after a mass trapping and to pick out kittens or anyinjured, ill or pregnant cats from the rest of the colony. Forsome trappers, drop trapping is the preferred approach forcapturing all the cats they’re after, not only special cases.Until recently, there was no mass-produced drop trap and most caretakers had to buildtheir own. At <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong>, we recognized how important this piece of equipmentis for TNR, so we teamed up with Tomahawk Live Trap to design the <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong>Drop Trap, a model which is affordable, durable and easy to set up and transport. Thetrap folds up like a suitcase and can be set up in a few minutesor less. Being all metal, it’s easy to clean and sanitize, unlikemost home-made drop traps. For more specifics andinformation on how to order, see “Drop traps” in Chapter 8.A drop trap is a more complicated tool to use than a regularbox trap – there’s much more involved than setting the trigger,standing back and waiting for a cat to step on the trip plate.The purpose of this chapter is to describe how to use the <strong>Neighborhood</strong> <strong>Cats</strong> Drop Trap.Most of what is said will apply equally to home-made drop traps as well. Before goinginto much more detail, here is a quick overview of the process: First, the trap is placedon a level surface near the cats’ usual eating spot. The front of the trap is then raised upon its prop bar and a bowl of bait is placed in the back. Thetrapper stands a distance away, holding a string or cord attachedto the prop bar. When the desired cat is under the trap and eatingout of the bowl, the string is yanked, pulling back the prop barand dropping the trap down over the cat. The cat is thentransferred into a box trap through the guillotine door on theside.Never try to use a drop trap for the first time on that elusive catyou’ve been after for the last five years! It takes a little practice to getused to the process, so first time out, use it on a cat or two who arealready fixed. You can either let them go after transferring them intobox traps (it’s important to practice that part, too) or getting their rabiesvaccinations updated. After you’ve given yourself a chance to makemistakes and learn, you’ll be ready for Grandma!97
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TNR HandbookThe Guide to Trap-Neute
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Table of ContentsForeword by Susan
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Chapter Ten: The Neighborhood Cats
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ForewordOne of the first ferals I e
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Introduction“If we keep ‘em in
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2. What is Trap-Neuter-Return?Trap-
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c) Fewer nuisance complaints. As me
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and as their hunger grows, they wil
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3. The TNR Process - An OverviewEve
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After you’ve determined how many
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for this purpose. Once you can talk
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like the board of a homeowners asso
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information provided because of the
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act to discourage cats from enterin
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epel. It operates on four “C” b
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• Free-standing fencesPurrfect Fe
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• Type of feeding stationThe perf
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Amazon (www.amazon.com) for “Le B
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will be drawn to this easily reache
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a search for “heated water bowl
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interior warm enough to prevent or
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food works best for your budget, th
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steroids, tranquilizers, anesthetic
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weather, loud construction work nea
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• Where to lookIn order to attrac
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In case you’re unable to return t
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18. Feral Cat ResourcesBooks Implem
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Petco Foundation (4Rs Project Suppo
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ToolkitsAction Kit: Advocating for
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Appendix BHOW TO BUILDTHE NEIGHBORH
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5. Place piece E two inches back fr
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Trap LogProject/Colony: ___________
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In memory ofBobby Kergis1952 - 2011