feet long, and lean it up against a wall at an angle. Place a set trap behind it without anybait (Figure 9-6). Towards the back of the trap, drape a sheet over the board so it visiblyblocks any open space above and to the side of the trap. Leave the rear door uncovered(Figure 9-7).Figure 9-6 Figure 9-7Once everything is ready, lure the cat into the room and shut the door, or gently shoohim out from his hiding spot if he’s already inside. Once he enters the room for the firsttime or is flushed out from his spot, he’ll look for somewhere to hide. The only placehe’ll see is behind the board and he’ll naturally go running behind it. The sheet willmake it appear that he’ll be blocked in if he goes over or around the trap, so in mostcases, he’ll go right in and step on the trip plate. He won’t realize, in the heat of themoment, that he could easily push the sheet aside.If the cat doesn’t go all the way into the trap or stops just in front of it, walk slowlytowards him, causing him to run away from you and into the trap. You could also slowlymove a long object, like a broom stick, towards him. Be careful not to get too close andwithin his striking range. If he still doesn’t go into the trap, exit the room, give the cattime to calm down, then come and try again to get him to run behind the board.Another approach, if there is a closet in the room, is to set a trap inside it. Leave thecloset door open a crack - just enough so the cat can run in. Make the interior of thecloset dark and the rest of the room as brightly lit as possible. Block or remove any otherhiding places. When the cat enters the room or is shooed out from behind wherever inthe room he’s hiding, his natural tendency will be to run from the bright open space to thedark enclosed one and, hopefully, into the trap. This method is less reliable than the “trapbehind the board” technique because there is more of a chance the cat will enter the closetbut not the trap.If all else fails, bait the trap, withdraw and wait it out.• Picking one out from the crowdA cat may be hard to catch because there are lots of other cats around who you’re notafter. This situation is typical when a colony is trapped and neutered gradually and you94
get down to the last few unaltered felines. You might also want to trap a particular catwho is pregnant, recently abandoned or sick or injured.A drop trap is the most effective way to selectively trap (see earlier in this chapter andChapter 10). In lieu of a drop trap, another way to pick a cat out of the crowd is to usethe bottle-and-string method described earlier in the “Kittens” section of this chapter (seealso Figure 9-3). Be sure, before the trapping, to practice setting the front door on thebottle, then yanking the string from a distance. It sounds easy enough, but it’s importantto get the feel of it before you go live and have a cat in the trap.Whether you use a drop trap or the bottle-and-string approach, put an extra-largeamount of bait in the trap. This will allow a number of cats to go in and eat while you’rewaiting for the one you want.• <strong>Cats</strong> who avoid the trip plateOn occasion, you may encounter a feline who won’t step on the trip plate. She maystep over it, tiptoe around or even lean and stretch her neck far enough to grab a bite ofthe bait. If you see a cat in a trap who has avoided the trip plate and is calmly eating,don’t hurry over and cause the cat to rush out in a panic, because then she may be toofrightened to ever return. Instead, walk towards the trap slowly and casually, giving herplenty of time to stop eating and exit when she becomes concerned about your approach.Sometimes on her way out, the cat will step on the trip plate.If the cat does exit, then when she’s acomfortable distance away, cover the tripplate and the rest of the trap floor with asheet of newspaper, using clothes pins toattach the paper to the sides of the trap.Now she won’t be able to see where thetrip plate is next time she goes in. Youcan also take a stick and push it throughthe sides of the trap a few inches abovethe ground and just in front of the tripplate (Figure 9-8). Now, to reach the bait,the cat will have to step over the stick andFigure 9-8onto the hidden trip plate. Cleaning traps & equipmentAt the end of each trapping project, it’s important to thoroughly clean the traps andany other equipment used, such as trap dividers or cages, in order to prevent the spread ofdisease. First, any loose materials should be scrubbed off. Then the equipment should bedipped in a bleach solution. The scrubbing should be done first in order for the bleachsolution to effectively sterilize all surfaces.A diluted solution of 1 part bleach to 32 parts water (1:32) will kill most commonfeline viruses, including feline distemper. The bleach needs to contain at least 5.25%sodium hypochlorite, which is the active ingredient. You can find the percentage of95
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TNR HandbookThe Guide to Trap-Neute
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Table of ContentsForeword by Susan
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Chapter Ten: The Neighborhood Cats
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ForewordOne of the first ferals I e
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Introduction“If we keep ‘em in
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2. What is Trap-Neuter-Return?Trap-
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c) Fewer nuisance complaints. As me
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and as their hunger grows, they wil
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3. The TNR Process - An OverviewEve
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After you’ve determined how many
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for this purpose. Once you can talk
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like the board of a homeowners asso
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information provided because of the
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act to discourage cats from enterin
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epel. It operates on four “C” b
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• Free-standing fencesPurrfect Fe
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• Type of feeding stationThe perf
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Amazon (www.amazon.com) for “Le B
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will be drawn to this easily reache
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a search for “heated water bowl
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interior warm enough to prevent or
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food works best for your budget, th
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steroids, tranquilizers, anesthetic
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- Page 52 and 53: • Feralvilla Outdoor Cat ShelterD
- Page 54 and 55: • Styrofoam boxesRestaurants and
- Page 56 and 57: Another option is the Snuggle Safe
- Page 58 and 59: apart. Knowing the correct number,
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- Page 62 and 63: three more traps than the number of
- Page 64 and 65: Tomahawk Live Trap- Neighborhood Ca
- Page 66 and 67: 11 inches in height. In our opinion
- Page 68 and 69: trap are attached. The transfer doo
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- Page 72 and 73: drop trap (code: KITDT) - see Figur
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- Page 82 and 83: doing so. Don’t check too frequen
- Page 84 and 85: Winter trappingSome trappers in nor
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- Page 98 and 99: effective, some experienced trapper
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- Page 104 and 105: PreparationsAs with any trapping, i
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- Page 128 and 129: “snap” test, it produces a resu
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- Page 134 and 135: has been created and one set of cat
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- Page 140 and 141: long will show signs of being socia
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alternatives, like scratching posts
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• Where to lookIn order to attrac
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In case you’re unable to return t
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18. Feral Cat ResourcesBooks Implem
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Petco Foundation (4Rs Project Suppo
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ToolkitsAction Kit: Advocating for
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Appendix BHOW TO BUILDTHE NEIGHBORH
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5. Place piece E two inches back fr
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Trap LogProject/Colony: ___________
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In memory ofBobby Kergis1952 - 2011