Leisure

FOOD & WINE : RESTAURANT REVIEWNORTH REGENT SMOKED FISH MEDLEYpeppercorn sauce and roasted fingerling potatoes, and braised beefshort ribs with horseradish mashed potatoes. The peppercorn keyed inall the components of the plump, succulent duck. Au jus traversed theshort ribs and potatoes, each soaking in the rich, wine-infused sauce.These were dishes to be slowly and carefully indulged between sips.Just as his restaurant brings the joys of French cuisine to this city,Chef Angles’s travels brought him to Southern California in 1988 —first to downtown, and then to Frenchy’s Bistro at its current locationin 1996. Since then, he and his wife and co-owner Valerie Angles haveexpanded, adding the wine bar, a separate waiting area, and a privatebanquet room used for a variety of local companies, nonprofits, and citygovernment events. Likewise, they host fundraisers for local hospitals,libraries, and the arts. Valerie will soon be opening Frenchy’s Fashion,a jewelry and clothing boutique downtown on East Broadway.Maintaining their infusion of regional influences, the evening endedwith the Provencal pine nut tart — a sweet, natural tart, savory andsubtle. Lavender ice cream oozed down from atop the tart, and lightstreaks of honey were painted across the dessert.Andre and Valerie Angles have managed to recreate Europeantaste and influence in the city’s least pompous French venue. It is atestament to their personalities and their cooking, and the experienceis a welcomed venture to somewhere and something new. nPINE NUT TART WITH LAVENDER ICE CREAMFrenchy’s Bistro4137 E. Anaheim St.562.494.8787frenchysbistro.com16JUNE 2010 TRAVEL & LEISURE