Leisure

FOOD & WINE : RESTAURANT REVIEWFrenchy’sBistroWRITTEN BY Eric WienerPhotographed by Matt FukushimaThe sounds of popping corks echoed throughout the main dining room.Golden milk chocolate paints and deep maroon floors and drapesbrought forward the silhouette-painted canvases lining the walls. Theenvironment of the room transported me and a dinner companion tothe casual European affluence so well-associated with bistros.But, no one frequents Frenchy’s Bistro for the environment. It’s asomewhat well-kept city secret, known exclusively for the authentic,striking cuisine created by Southern France native, Andre Angles —the type of place our local French residents go when flying back toEurope for dinner is out of the question.On a recent dinner outing, we began with a medley of north regentsmoked fish — a trio of trout, mackerel, and salmon. Seasoned withcapers, lemon juice, and basil oil, the fish were salty, reminiscentof cold waters and cool breezes. Accompanying were warm breadmedallions with their anchovy and basil dip, herb twisted, faintly bitter,but smooth and surprising.The fish was followed by Frenchy’s onion soup served in personalized,petite iron kettles set upon lace-trimmed settings befitting the balanceof masculinity and femininity prominent in the romance languages.Three melted cheeses formed a stringy tarp over the smooth andgarlicky broth, enabling the soup’s flavors to live up to its presentation.From their simple and rustic nine-seat wine bar, we ordered glassesof the 2007 Blackstone Winery Merlot and 2008 Reserve de L’AubeCotes du Rhone Syrah & Merlot blend. A pared-down version of theirdinner menu treats those at the wine bar’s slightly more relaxed setting,which Chef Angles describes as “a nice element for first visits, for thoseperhaps intimidated by the restaurant’s exterior or the lofty conceptof French cuisine.”Nothing within Frenchy’s Bistro is overtly formal or intimidating though,which allows the focus to justly center upon their wine and food.Entrees arrived in the form of the Maple Leaf farm duck breast withMAPLE LEAF FARM DUCK BREAST14JUNE 2010 TRAVEL & LEISURE