argentina & wine spirit - Wines Of Argentina

ARGENTINAAUGUST07&A supplement toWINESPIRIT

INTRODUCTION & CONTENTSContents4-11 Drink TankA quick word with: Maria Iñes PinaMerchants: Where to buy Argentinian wineEmpanadas: What do Argentiniansrecommend to drink with their national dish?12 OverviewDavid Williams gets to grips withArgentina’s wine industry14 EvolutionAnthony Rose recollects how farArgentinian wine styles have come18 FamiliesPeter Richards weighs up familyfirms versus money machines22 Wine tripNorthern lad Joe Fattorini takes a tripup north, Argentina style28 Torr ontésWhen will this variety take off in the UK? Hasit already? Jane Parkinson asks the trade32 Top 10 varietal winesSimon Woods reports on his mission:10 top wines from as many varieties35 Shiraz tastingJane Parkinson reports on a new red starin the Argentinian wine galaxy38 ContactsEveryone you need to know40 Map of wine regionsEverywhere you need to know42 Bigger pictureWhat’s the story behind Mendoza’smystery house of wine?& WINESPIRITCure the malaiseIt’s not her fault, but Argentina has fallen victim to the most frustrating ofwine malaises in this country: pigeon holing.This weakness of the British drinker lies in stark contrast to thenumerous forward-thinking, pro-active contributions our country generallymakes to the world of wine. By struggling to see beyond its marketbreakinggrape variety – in Argentina’s case , Malbec – we pigeon hole aNew World country into a one-grape state . New Zealand and SauvignonBlanc, Chile and Merlot, Australia and Shiraz – they have all suffered theBritish treatment. However, the difference between these countries andArgentina is that it has already succeeded in getting people to understandit can produce a lot more than the grape that made its country famous.With such a complicated history, Argentina’s route to producing greatwines has been a protracted trial -and-error journey, as Anthony Rosereports on page 14. And, while being a country that’s brimming with talent,potential and choice, Argentina’s ascension to the world stage of qualitywine production has undoubtedly been down to Malbec.Too few people appreciate what else Argentina has to offer these days.For example, a number of producers are now making excellent Shiraz , asour tasting reveals on page 35. And why hasn’t Torrontés been given a faircrack of the whip over here? We ask the trade on page 28. Whounderstands that Argentina now produces world -class wines from at least10 different varieties? Simon Woods reveals his pick of the bunch onpage 32. Let’s remedy this malaise, for Argentina now deserves to beknown for far more than Malbec.Jane ParkinsonSupplement EditorJane ParkinsonArt DirectorGary SimonsProduction EditorPaul LawrenceChief Sub-EditorLawrence DutrieuxSub EditorsGary WernerEmily KearnsJaq BaylesHarriet KinlochAdvertisement ManagerKathrin LeaverAdvertisement Production Co-ordinatorJonathan TaylorPublisherLee SharkeyPublishing DirectorRussell DoddGroup Managing DirectorCharles ReedCover ImagePA Photos&A supplement to Wine & Spirit byWilliam Reed Publishing Ltd, Broadfield Park,Crawley, West Sussex RH11 9RT© William Reed Publishing Ltd 2007All rights reservedInternet www.william-reed.co.ukwww.wine-spirit.comTelephone 01293 613400Editorial Fax 01293 610317Subscription Hotline 01795 414880General Enquiries 0800 652 6514William Reed actively sourcematerial for Wine & Spiritmagazine from well managedforests and certified forestryAUGUST 2007 l WINE SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 3

DRINK TANKAssorted outpourings, disgorgements and noble rotAquickwordwithMaria Ines PinaUK brand manager, Trivento Bodegas y Vi ñedosArgentiniansuccessat the IWCTrophiesInternational Torrontés Trophy,Argentinian White TrophyQuara Reserva Torrontés, FelixLavaque Winery, Cafayate 2005N/A UK, contact VinocerosAre you really the only person in theUK dedicated to Argentina?Yes. I think there is someone here working forCatena, but they also do the rest of Europeand I deal only with the UK.Does it make a difference to Trivento’sperformance in the UK?It makes a big difference. Argentina is only asmall percentage of the market here, so youneed to be pushing [the brand]. I’m here allthe time, and constantly working with salesso I know exactly what’s going on.How does it help?I can see what’s going on in the market dayby day. When we see an opportunity, itmakes it easier for us to have quick answersand respond to these opportunities. It is myjob to look for these opportunities. If youhave someone here who is looking after[wines of] other countries, Argentina is goingto be the last thing on the list [because of itssmall share in the market].Does this present a problem in theoffice you share with Concha y Toro?No, but it is difficult. I fight to makeArgentina heard.What’s one of the biggest challengesof being based in the wine industryover here compared to working inArgentina?You realise you have to learn about the othercountries and regions because the peoplehere have so much choice . They are going toask: “Can I have a wine like this or this? Canyou give me a wine that is similar to aBordeaux?” It’s a challenge but it’s differentand interesting. I send our winemakers alot of samples of wine from different placesas they don’t have the chance to see whatthe competition is doing. They often onlyget to taste Argentinian wines. So I sendsamples quite often as it allows them tobetter compare what we are doing withArgentinian wines.Don’t they get to taste whenthey travel?Well, at wine fairs and places like thatthey have only about one day to trydifferent things.What’s the future plan for Trivento?First, we have to build up the brand; wehave lots of listings but we still want togrow on that. We are also building upa premium range.So will there continue to be a Triventopresence in the UK?There has been someone doing this jobhere for two and a half years. The UK isone of the most important markets forus, but you have to remember that weare part of Concha y Toro UK, so itmakes a lot of sense being here. Itmakes a difference.Do you think other brands shouldfollow suit?I haven’t heard of anyone else doing it, butI think that they should be here. A lot ofChileans have done it, and that makes adifference. Those who really want to buildtheir wine should definitely think of bringingsomeone over.Interview: Jane ParkinsonInternational Malbec Trophy,Argentinian Red TrophyMalbec Reserve, Chakana, Mendoza 2005N/A UK, contact PLBGold medalsSlinky Pink, La Riojana, Famatina Valley 2006£3.99, MorrisonsYBS, Eral Bravo, Mendoza 2005£24.99, Las BodegasTo view the remainder of Argentinian results from this year’scompetition, visit www.internationalwinechallenge.com.5Top fiveArgentinian companiesexporting to the UK by value1. Peñaflor2. Bodegas Esmerelda3. La Riojana4. Trivento5. Bodega y Viñedos AgricolaArgentinian companiesexporting to the UK by volume1. Peñaflor2. La Riojana3. Trivento4. Bodegas Esmerelda5. Bodega y Viñedos AgricolaSource: MAT May 2007, Caucasia Wine Thinking4 l ARGENTINA l WINE & SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007

Great Argentinian wine drinkersDavid Williams reviews a cluster of famous Argentinians and their drinking habitsJuan PerónJuan Perón, aka Mr Evita, had a turbulent life, lurching from masspopularity to exile and back. But at every stage of his political career, winewas never far away. Accounts of his first steps into politics in the 1940sdepict Peron attempting to woo trade union bosses in the docks ofBuenos Aires by acting macho over bottles of “scratchy” red wine. By thetime of his exile in the Dominican Republic in the mid-1950s, however, hehad developed a taste for the good things in life. An article in The NewYork Times from 1955 described his dissolute ex-pat lifestyle: “Peron likesgay parties of witty male guests, and beautiful and modishly dressedwomen, with good food, vintage wine and a background of classicalmusic. He also likes to entertain intimate friends while dressed in thegayest of lounging attire.”Diego Maradonaimpersonatesa Malbec grapeGeneral Leopold GaltieriThough Perón was, to put it mildly, a divisive figure in Argentinian life, he isstill remembered with affection by those who regard him as a principledstrongman rather than a fascist dem agogue. No such luck for GeneralLeopold Galtieri, who posterity has decreed not only a fascist dem agogue,but an incompetent fascist dem agogue. And that’s not to mention a bitof an old soak. According to The Guardian’s chief political writer, MichaelWhite, Galtieri was often said to be drunk during the Falklands war in1982. The thought of his opposite number on the enemy side in thesame condition is frankly too terrifying to contemplate.Carlos GardelLike jazz, tango’s roots are in the smoky bars of poor urban backstreets,and the music has been described as “smelling of wine and tasting ofdeath”. This was certainly true of the songs of tango’s most famousexponent, Carlos Gardel. A huge international star in the 1920s and 1930s,Gardel’s short life and lyrics were all about wine, women and song. Today,tango fans in Argentina like to say that Gardel is like a fine wine: he singsbetter every day.Diego MaradonaArguments still rage over whether Diego Maradona was the world’sgreatest ever footballer, but few dispute his place in the pantheon of hardlivingsportsmen. Maradona has always liked a drink, whether it’s a bottleof beer from Quilmes, the shirt sponsor of Boca Juniors (the club where hefirst made his name), or enjoying a glass or seven of his country’s nationaldrink: red wine. Maradona has also extended his name and image to awine, produced by Raices de Agrelo in Mendoza, which has a productionof around 15,000 bottles selling at around £10.And a great Argentinianwine abstainerJorge Luis Borges was a giant of world literature, but he was alsosomething of a mummy’s boy. He lived with her in a small Buenos Airesapartment until he was well into his 60s. Great writer or not, Mrs Borgeskept a close eye on her son’s behaviour, and wasn’t afraid to instill a littlediscipline. A famous anecdote about the pair recalls a dinner with a groupof academics. A Yale professor overheard a maid asking Jorge if he wouldlike some wine, to which his mother answered on his behalf: “The boywon’t have any wine.”&AUGUST 2007 l WINE SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 5Image: Rex Features

DRINK TANKAlways the bridesmaid?Consumers seem to knowlittle about Argentinianwines, but the followingstockists could soonchange that, saysCatharine LoweLike the proverbial bridesmaid, Argentinianwine is in danger of never taking centrestage up the aisle. While it’s a popular drink,specialist buyers suggest that it’s rarely activelysought by the consumer and, though the nameis familiar, its wines are not known in any depth.Although buyers are passionate about thewines and their future, few can pinpoint whypeople are buying Argentinian wine, apart fromwhen it’s on offer. And while customers nowhave a greater recognition of Malbec, they are along way from requesting the likes of Torr ontés,or choosing by region.Over the past few years, Argentina has takena back seat to the likes of Italy and Chile, buyersadmitted. However, ranges are expanding,hand-selling and tastings work well, and there’soptimism about the increase in generic activity.THE SPECIALISTCavas de GauchoPhil Crozier, sommelier (gauchorestaurants.co.uk)THE HIGH STREET CHAINMajesticMatt Pym, buyer (majestic.co.uk)Cavas de Gaucho in London, the retail arm of nine-strong restaurantchain Gaucho, has 160 bins (up from 40 in 2000), boasting the world’smost comprehensive range of Argentinian wines outside of Argentina.Of those, 80 per cent are red. The range covers all grape varieties,north to south and high to low altitudes. The most popular wines in therestaurants are Merlot/Malbec Terruño at £22.50, and the Terrazas delos Andes at £35.50. The retail arm is described as “niche” by Crozier.Crozier believes that Torr ontés and Bonarda will have their day. “ A lotof blends will become more established, such as Malbec. There’ll alsobe more from Patagonia and Salta . Argentina should stick to its nativegrape varieties – this is absolutely the way to go. Three or four yearsago Malbec was relatively unknown, now it is on most wine lists.“Torr ontés is going to have its time. Now that more people aredrinking Sauvignon Blanc, they are open to being adventurous withother varieties.” With the restaurant chain and the shop, Crozierprobably sees more dedicated Argentinian food and wine fans thananyone in the UK, and suggests: “Argentinian wine buyers tend to bequite young. They are also wine lovers.”At Majestic the Argentinian range has grown rapidly since 2000, whenthere were only about eight wines. Now there are about 30 , comprising17 red and 13 white. Sales have increased by 35 per cent over the past12 months and growth is expected to continue – and the size of therange to expand – though at a lower rate. Zonda Shiraz/Malbec andChardonnay/Chenin, Esperanza Merlot and Sauvignon are all at£3.99, with Nicolas Catena Zapata and Cheval des Andes at £40.Average spend per bottle is £4.70. The best-sellers are Argento PinotGrigio, Esperanza Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot.Twice a year Majestic offers 20 per cent off the Argentinian range – apromotion Pym describes as “hugely important”. But customers arejust as easily diverted when discounts are offered on other countr ies’wines. There is some loyalty to Argentinian wine, but customers will“always be tempted by wines and deals from all over the world”.As to whether thecustomer has acomprehension beyondArgentina, Pym suggests:“There is someunderstanding of Malbecand people may haveheard of Mendoza andTorrontés. Argentina doesa wide range of winesvery well, so they canpush sales through themessages of quality anddifferentiation.”6 l ARGENTINA l WINE & SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007

THE SUPERMARKETWaitroseNick Room, buyer (waitrose.com)THE MAIL ORDER MERCHANTLaithwaitesThomas Woolrych, buyer (laithwaites.co.uk)Waitrose has 10 Argentinian reds and seven whites, a number broadlystatic since a large increase in 2002. Prices run from Zuccardi’s Fuzionsat £3.99 to Clos de los Siete at £10.99. Average spend is around £5.Waitrose best-sellers , if you strip out promotions , are the TriventoViognier and the Finca Flichman reds – Shiraz and Malbec. “These aresteady sellers, with recognisable grape varieties, which deliver verygood value in terms of wine quality at their price,” says Room.“We experience the usual uplifts when lines are on promotion, andArgentina is no exception,” Room adds. “About 20-25 per cent is thenormal level of price discount.”Room is sceptical of customer loyalty, though optimistic of change :“I think loyalty needs to be earned with more generic activity, but theamount of exposure for Argentina in the trade press recently must havestarted to benefit the country and its wines. It ’s a shame thatArgentinian wine is not better placed in the UK market. The winesthemselves are generally very good and different to other New Worldofferings.”As far as customer awareness of grape variety and regions, Roompoints to education as the way forward. “We do try to educate ourspecialists, and hence our customers. We ’re very keen on positivecommunication with our well-executed publications.”Room believes that grapes such as Merlot and Chardonnay have aplace alongside the likes of Malbec and Torrontés, if “they are differentfrom other New or Old World offerings”.However, he adds: “Argentina has claimed Malbec and Torr ontés asits own – and that is a great step forward. It can carve its own identitybetter with ‘unique’ and distinctive varieties. What is more, the namesare pronounceable .”Laithwaites has 35 Argentinianwines and is about to take onmore. The range coversLa Rioja, San Juan, Mendozaand Tupungato, and willstretch to Patagonia later thisyear. Laithwaites’ cheapestwine is a promotion at £56.99per case or £4.75 per bottle.The most expensive is Chevaldes Andes at £40 per bottle.Best-sellers include theRam írez de Velazco range, theArriero range and Zapapico.“Argentina is 3 per cent of our sales mix and will increase further as itis seen as a country which offers wines with some of the best value onthe market,” says Woolrych. “Argentina offers both variety andcharacter in its wines, which is a huge bonus. They are certainly notbland. In the same way that we’ve made headway with Italy over thepast few years we are now focusing on Argentina.”Discounts are a good way of encouraging customers to try winesthat they might not have gone for, points out Woolrych.He suggests that the customer does not yet have an understandingof Argentina. “But we can educate them ,” he says. Tastings are aparticularly good way as Torr ontés and Malbec do well if the customertries them. “It’s harder when they have to compete with better-knowngrapes such as Pinot Grigio and Shiraz, but things are changing.Customers are experimenting more.”AUGUST 2007 l WINE & SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 7

DRINK TANKShow methe way toempanadaThe spice of life:experimenting on what winescan match empanadasWhat’s the best winematch for the nationaldish? Wine & Spirit askedsome locals and experts tofork out their knowledgeMain image: Getty ImagesRicardo RebeloFinca Flichman“It is a curious question.Personally, I like our FincaFlichman Rosé made from50 per cent Malbec and 50per cent Shiraz (available atWaitrose), because it addsfruitiness from the Malbec, complexity andvolume from the Shiraz. But, above all, weshould remember that a hot, spicy empanadaunder a temperature of 35°C in Mendoza goesvery well with a chilled rosé . I am writing thisand my mouth is starting to salivate.”Edu jr andEduardo PulentaPulenta Estate“Mendocinian empanadas are without pepper,so they match perfectly with oak-aged Malbecsbecause the sweetness of the onion matcheswith the sweet tannins of the varietal, and thetoast notes of the cooked pastry matches withthe toast notes of the oak.“Empanadas from the north of Argentina arevery spicy because they make them withpepper; then you can match it with a Malbec /Cabernet Sauvignon blend or a single CabernetSauvignon varietal.”&Adrian MeyerTerrazas de los Andes8 l ARGENTINA l WINE SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007“Empanadas Salteñas (from Salta, a province innorthern Argentina) are very juicy, spicy – evenhot – so they will match very well with a crispy,unctuous, full-bodied Chardonnay, such as ourReserva Chardonnay Terrazas de los Andes2006. The cedar and floral notes combin e verywell with the spicy cumin and red pepper of thiskind of empanadas. The Tucumanas are softerand sweeter and are usually made withchopped meal, potatoes and raisins. For a goodcontrast, a stronger winewill be needed – maybe aCabernet SauvignonReserva Terrrazas 2005,fruity, but also spicy, with agreat acidity and structure.For empanadas de maiz (sweetcornempanadas), Malbec is the choice. Theunctuosity and sweetness of this empanadacombin es very well with the meatinesss andkindness of a well-ripped Malbec.”José Manuel OrtegaBodegas O Fournier“In Salta the empanadas are rather spicy so Ithink they will go well with a Torrontés (UrbanTorrontés). The ones in Mendoza are baked andsmoother so a full-bodied Malbec such as AlfaCrux Malbec would suit them rather nicely.”James ForbesWines of Argentina UK“This is the 64 million peso question and onenot easy to answer without controversy. Thereare as many opinions as there are styles andfillings but, for my money (please remember Iam but a simple gringo), the best all-rounderhas got to be a glass of chilled, fresh and fullflavouredTorrontés such as Colomé, Crios orAlta Vista . Just seems to partner the complexand spicy flavours brilliantly.”Marcelo MarascoFamilia Zuccardi“In the case of the meat empanadas, the style Ilike is gently spicy. This kind of empanadamatches well with a really refreshing wine, onewith a good personality. This is the case withSanta Julia Syrah Rosé, which matches thetaste of the empanadas without anycompetition, but refreshes your palate for thenext titbit too. Cheese empanadas, which havea light structure and a creamy filling, match verywell with the freshness of Viognier. The fruityflavour of this wine also matches the lacticflavour and does not compete with the food.”▼

DRINK TANKHOW TO MAKE EMPANADASEach region has its own preparation of empanadas. The recipe below comes courtesy of Santiago Cristobal,chef at Cavas Wine Lodge in Mendoza.Dough400g flour20g lardSaltEnough chilled water to form doughPlace flour on a table and make a hole in themiddle. Melt lard in low temperature and mixwith water. Blend into the flour until there is afirm dough.Filling200g onions80g butterSalt200g minced beef2 small onions1 handful fresh oregano1 tsp cumin1 ts p crushed chilli peppers15 table olives1 chopped boiled eggMethodSimmer the onions with butter and salt. Add themeat to the onions when they look transparent.Cook for a few minutes then take off the heat.Cut the small onions into thin arrows, chop theoregano and add, together with salt and chillipeppers, to the meat and onion mix. Add moresalt if needed. Allow the mixture to rest in thefridge for a few hours. Spread the dough on atable , making long, thin rectangles. Placeseveral generous tablespoons of the beefmixture in the centre , leaving a space to cut theempanada. Add boiled egg and some tableolives to each empanada. Fold the top part ofthe dough over the half that has the filling. Sealthe edges and cut as a semicircle . Place in hotoven for 20 minutes.THE BRITISH VERSION– CORNISH PASTIES AND WINEBob Lindo has the pasty withwine match sussedBob Lindo, Camel Valley Vineyards, Cornwall“Great, you’ve come to the world’s experts on wine and pasty matching .Traditional meat pasties are very peppery and go really well with a big mug oftea. Wine – no contest. And we usually eat them standing in the road . If you goto Truro shopping on a Saturday you’ll see everyone standing out in the fresh airat lunchtime eating pasties. If I had to recommend a wine, I’d think picnic and2005 Camel Valley sparkling Pinot Noir – drink the fizz, make love, then eat thepasty. We’re quite innovative here in Cornwall and Rick Stein does a fantasticseafood pasty which is just made to go with Camel Valley Cornwall sparklingbrut. We’re blessed with an abundance of local food. We held a red , white andsparkling themed night here during English Wine Week. Two of our courses weremini canapé pasties – steak and Cornish blue cheese with Camel Valley Ros é2005, and crab with Camel Valley Atlantic Dry 2006.Historically, pasties were taken down the tin mines to sustain the miners, andthe end that the pasty was held by was always dirty. It was traditional to throw itto “the knockers ” who were thought to inhabit the bottom of the mine. Next timeI meet Malcolm Gluck I’ll toss him a piece – he has an annual knock atEnglish wine .”AUGUST 2007 l WINE & SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 11Image: Simon Burt / Apex

Llama and friend:“Who are you callingclichéd?”profile, and other imaginative events, such as a Malbec versus Pinot Noirtasting, a meat and Malbec food matching competition and a trade forumlooking at how the Argentinians can best harness their enormous sparklingwine production, should ensure the momentum is carried forward.Of course, a raised profile doesn’t necessarily translate into increasedsales – just look at the gap between Robbie Williams’s media presence andhis recent album sales . If Argentina is to improve its performance in the UK,it’s going to require a big change in attitude from the major buyers. To date,a combination of inconsistency on the part of Argentinian producers (in boththe wine and its supply) and a fear that British consumers just haven’tforgiven the Argentinians for their martial and sporting indiscretions, hasleft retailers reluctant to give Argentina the kind of backing given to itsNew World rivals.At Wine & Spirit, we hope that’s about to change. As the contents of thissupplement illustrates, Argentina is one of the world’s most fascinating winecountries. No other New World country can compete with its sheer range ofwine styles, grape varieties and terroirs. After 20 years of false starts, it’s hightime that diversity was reflected in the UK’s wine shops. W & S&AUGUST 2007 l WINE SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 13

EVOLUTIONLooking to awider horizonArgentina’s wine industry has rapidly shifted from processing plonk for the populaceto extracting excellence for export. Anthony Rose looks at the continuing transition14 l ARGENTINA l WINE & SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007

Pioneering efforts in the 1990s haveworked well for red and white wineproduction in the Uco Valleylthough I normally bandy the term “New World” about with insouciance,Aits limitations as a convenient catch-all expression obscure rather thanhighlight the differences between the wine-producing countries of the worldbeyond Europe. This is probably more true of Argentina than any othercountry, for while this South American nation of gauchos and tango dancerssitting east of the Andes may be New World in name, geography and relativeyouth, in many other respects it apes various aspects of European wineculture. “We are a wine country,” says José Alberto Zuccardi, of FamiliaZuccardi. “It’s with our meals, our celebrations; wine is freely part of ourculture.” This is because, unlike the rest of the New World , Argentina has abroader European tradition (witness its 90,000ha of olive trees) to thank forthe manner in which its wine industry has evolved from its missionary originsin the 16th century to its present incarnation as a modern wine power.Not that you have to go back to the conquistadores to find out the scaleand speed of the transition. No, there was a flourishing wine industry in thelatter half of the 19th and early 20th centuries, with quality wine productionbased on the import of French varieties and Italian and Spanish immigration.But then the dark ages set in, their origins based on the decline of a wineindustry beset by cycles of boom and bust between the 1940s and 1980s.Assisted by high-yielding pergola training and flood irrigation from thegenerous resources of the Andes, the great quantities of plonk made fromworkhorse varieties such as Cereza, Muscatel, Pedro Gim énez and Criollacontributed to the inflation of per capita consumption in the 1970s to90 litres per head. Predictably, the watery wine bubble burst and, onceagain, yet another glut between the 1970s and 1980s resulted in roughly athird of the country’s entire vineyards, including some 30,000 ha ofirreplaceable old Malbec, being grubbed up.Even right up to the beginning of the 1990s, wine production was stilllargely geared towards the volume demands of an insatiable yetindiscriminating domestic market. Wine was divided either into plonk orsomething euphemistically called vino tinto fino . The latter was basically nomore than an everyday blend made from every which variety, emerging moreoften than not under a name that doffed a cap in the direction of the French:Pont L’Evèque, Carcassonne, Comte de Valmont and, somewhat morecuriously, Aberdeen Angus. As Roberto de la Mota, of Mendel Wines, says:“Few producers were orient ed towards quality. The mentality was geared tovolumes and the local market only wanted old-style wines – that’s to saywines that were evolved and aged in big oak vats. No one was talking varietyor origin. Brands were the most important thing.”When French producers such as Hervé Joyaux, of Fabre Montmayou, andthe peripatetic brothers Jacques and François Lurton arrived in Argentina inthe early 1990s, Malbec was not considered an important variety. How couldit be when 30,000ha had been pulled out of the ground? And how couldanyone at the time have foreseen that a grape that rated a poor fifth in theBordeaux hierarchy of varieties after Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc,Merlot and Petit Verdot was to become Argentina’s most important redvariety in little more than a decade? Yet there were stirrings. As de la Motapoints out, his father, the legendary winemaker Raul de la Mota, had madethe iconic 1977 Weinert from Malbec, and that same winery was the first tosell a single -varietal Malbec at a higher price than Cabernet Sauvignon.There were some other pretty good ones around too. When Italian wineconsultant Alberto Antonini first went to Argentina in 1995, he went on a&AUGUST 2007 l WINE SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 15▼

EVOLUTIONMalbec- finding mission after being inspired by the taste of a 1960s NortonMalbec given to him by Patricio Santos, whose family had owned Norton.“What bowled me over,” says Antonini, “was not so much the style as therichness and fruit quality.”On his first visit to Argentina, Antonini recalls that while everyone wasproudly showing off their Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz and Chardonnay, theywere shy about their Malbecs , yet “these were the wines that impressed memost ”. Most however, although rich and aromatic, were still being made inthe old-fashioned style with dry tannins, low acidity and, as often as not,overripe fruit, with ageing for so long in bad old oak that they suffered fromoxidation and bacterial off-flavours. De la Mota agrees that there was a basiclack of understanding of modern winemaking and, at the same time , littlecommitment to change because so much wine sold well enough on thedomestic market. And if there was little understanding of the winemakingprocess, there was probably even less awareness of the potential that’sbeen unlocked today in the diversity of Argentinian terroir. Until the Frenchcame along and set up their stalls in the Uco Valley, it was generally thoughtthat Luján de Cuyo, south of the city of Mendoza, represented the limits ofMendoza’s terroir.From the early 1990s, the orientation of the wine industry changeddrastically from being inward-looking and volume-based to now rel ying onquality wine exports for its image and, more importantly, its pesos. Theconverti bilidad law, i e one peso to the dollar, helped kickstart the exportmarket, which was crucial to the way the industry changed tack. Between1980 and 1990 a lot of low-quality varieties were re-grafted to premiumvarieties and, at the same time, the conversion to quality coincided with theopening up of the country. With the influx of overseas investors came thereali sation that even though Delilah had given Malbec a short back andsides, it was still the country’s great red hope. According to François Lurton,Nicolas Catena wanted Jacques Lurton to make a Bonarda for the localmarket and a Cabernet for export. But Jacques was keen to work withMalbec, feeling it could compete on the world stage. The Cabernet-orient edCatena saw the light and started to change tack at around that time.The influence of winemakers and investors from overseas was not entirelywithout its teething problems. After the excesses of flood irrigation in the1980s there came a period of over-compensation when water stressbecame excessive. And, as the economy opened up to the outside world inthe 1990s, too many wines were produced in exaggeratedly over-extracted,super-ripe styles that pandered to the American press. “Producers start edlooking at Robert Parker and the American press and as a result it was notuncommon to see heavy, overripe and oaky wines,” says de la Mota. It wasinevitable there would be problems in an industry that had been geared tothe mass home market for so long that it didn’t really know how to respondto overseas demand, and these were exacerbated by the different signals itwas receiving about the desired style of wine. Also, re-focusing on Malbecwas to an extent a distraction from the country’s potential for diversifyinginto other styles.But the benefits of opening up to outside markets brought a bigimprovement in winemaking and, perhaps even more importantly, in thevineyard. Cellars were adapted or constructed to make stainless steel andtemperature control the norm. Better crushers and presses were introducedand old oak was gradually phased out in favour of French and American oak.The attention focused on terroir was accompanied by a new phenomenon:winemakers actually going into the vineyard and working with the viticulturalistfor a change. Hence a new emphasis on picking not just on analysis, but onflavour too. As vinification has become more sophisticated, winemakershave become more adept at blending for greater complexity. And, whilegrapes like Tempranillo and Bonarda were once considered inferior to thePierre Lurton and Robertode la Mota have pushedthe quality barrow16 l ARGENTINA l WINE & SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007

A head for wine: MissArgentina Norma Cappagimay have been one of thebeauty queens to treadgrapes for Orfiladuring the 1960sclassic Bordeaux varieties, producers such as José Alberto Zuccardi,Marques de Griñon, Jose Manuel Ortega of O Fournier and Tittarelli havechanged that to the extent that some 30 wineries make Tempranillo. Bonardatoo is being given its due and whites are starting to benefit from the move todiversify – notably Torrontés, Viognier, Chardonnay and Sauvignon.Perhaps more significant in the long term has been the sea change inviticulture, both in terms of the discovery of new terroirs and efforts made inthe vineyard to get the most from the vine. Until the mid-1990s Luján wasgenerally considered the furthest south anyone needed to go, but Tupungato,Tunuyán and San Carlos have put the spotlight on the Uco Valley. Accordingto de la Mota : “The expansion south of Luján is very important with a lot ofproducers moving from Maipú and the north east to the Uco Valley, which isbringing fresher fruit with floral aromas, higher natural acidity, better balanceand more elegance and colour to the wines .” The exploration of altitude andsunlight by, among others, Pedro Marchevsky at the pioneering Catena (andnow Susana Balbo), has led to a search for higher, cooler -climate pockets ofthe Uco Valley, whose proximity to the Andes allows its breezes to refreshthe vineyard with the poor, stony, soils there imparting mineral subtleties.What growers still have to watch closely is the tendency for sugar ripenessto creep ahead of phenolic ripeness, but producers have a bettercomprehension of how to cope with it.Since the start of the millennium, re-focusing on aroma, fruit purity andelegance has been embraced by the Argentinian s themselves. “I alwaysthink that a producing country reflects what the consumer of that countryloves,” says François Lurton. “In Argentina a soul has appeared, a passionfor wine that has come with consumers who are going for younger, fruitierwines with more colour.” No longer as reliant on foreign markets to dictatestyles, Argentina is now better placed to forge its own wine identity. It showsin the many new investments and lifestyle projects initiated by Argentiniansand the mushrooming of sommelier schools around the country. When Ivisited Familia Zuccardi in March, José Alberto had just received a group of50 from one school and was entertaining another 80 trainees the followingweek. “Wine is becoming something that’s more interesting and our foodgets better and restaurants are offering much improved wine lists. Last year,the domestic market grew 1.5 per cent but much more in value becausepeople are drinking better quality. Once people learn quality they won’t goback. It’s not just fashion. It’s real.” He’s right, it really is. W & SOLD-FASHIONED ARGENTINIAN WINE STYLES THAT ARE STILL WORTH DRINKING TODAYTradition, what tradition? Many of Argentina’s 1975. The winery itself was built in 1890 and,most traditional wine families, such as Luigi following its restoration, pursued a policy ofBosca and Valentin Bianchi, have cleaned up keeping a significant proportion of its winestheir act over the past couple of decades . Yet in big old casks. Weinert is still an icon of thewhile many such wineries have been falling Argentinian style beloved by devotees .over each other in the rush to embraceAlso in Luján de Cuyo, Lagarde, a winerymodern technology, no winery exemplifies founded in 1897 by Don Angel Pereyra, hasthe traditional style more than Weinert.been undergoing a process of moderni sationCavas de Weinert has consistentlysince it was taken over in 1976 by theploughed a traditional furrow in the Carrodilla wealthy Pescarmona family. Lagarde tradesdistrict of Luján de Cuyo, even though it was under the Lagarde and Drummond labels andonly founded (by the Brazilian entrepreneur the Lagarde Malbec was the first I ever drankBernardo Weinert) as relatively recently as in Argentina after I arrived off the plane in1998 with a craving for a piece of Argentinianbeef washed down by a Malbec. The memoryof that perfect marriage has remained withme ever since. Lagarde cellars containwhat are reputed to be the oldest winesin Argentina . A 1942 Sémillon is the mostremarkable Argentinian white I’ve ever tasted– a rich, complex, savoury amontillado-likewhite with a fresh nutty tang bottled in 1990.A snip at £125 a bottle. If you’d like a winewhose grapes are trodden by beauty queensat Mendoza’s Harvest Festival, try Orfila. Nowthere’s tradition for you.&AUGUST 2007 l WINE SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 17Miss Argentina image: PA Photos

FAMILIESForeign money and nativepassion forge a greater goodThe Argentinian wine industry is dominated by multinationals – so wheredoes that leave family firms, asks Peter RichardsArgentina, like many other countries in the so-called New World, is nostranger to the hostile foreign takeover. The first such incursion wasmade by the conquistadors in the mid-16th century, and the process hasbeen ongoing since, albeit more in a business context of late. The authorIsabel Allende put it memorably when she wrote of how the original Spanishconquistadors sired the first mestizos, or mixed-blood, progeny from theindigenous women, effectively laying the bedrock for much of modern SouthAmerican identity : “From those violent embraces come our peoples.”But not all foreign influx has been unwelcome or hostile in Argentina –quite the opposite . It is enough merely to take a glance around the country’seconomy to see just how much foreign capital and expertise is at play, andthe wine industry is no exception.Argentinian wine is, in fact, rife with foreign investors from origins asdiverse as Chile, Spain, Italy, France, Australia, the US, Portugal, the UK,Austria, Germany and Holland. And this is not just at the bit-part level – it isrevealing that the top 10 table of leading bottled wine exporters shows themajority to be foreign-controlled, from Peñaflor/Trapiche to Trivento, Norton,Chandon/Terrazas, BVA group and Diageo Argentina.So where does this leave the home-grown family producers celebrated asthe mainstay of the nation’s viticultural diversity and character? Are theybeing marginali sed by the muscle of foreign investment or thriving alongsideit? In what is a critical period of evolution for the Argentinian wine industry,such issues have taken on considerable significance.“Winemaking in Argentina was traditionally a family business, highlyfragmented and with little exposure to international trends,” explains JuanPelizzatti, managing partner in the new, family-owned Chakana winery.“After the local economy opened up in the nineties and given the lack ofconsolidated local players, opportunities were created for foreign investors.And it’s the foreign participation that has been the driving force behind thecurrent growth.”It is, indeed, a bullish global market for Argentinian wine. Total wineexports rose 36.6 per cent by volume and 25.5 per cent by value in 2006versus 2005 ( MAT to March 2007, Wines of Argentina). Official predictionspoint to further rises of 20-25 per cent for this year after exports rose by34 per cent in the first trimester.A similar pattern was in evidence in bottled wine exports to the States , upmore than 30 per cent by value and 16 per cent by volume, and to Europe ,up 21 per cent by value and 11 per cent by volume .The UK is one of the few markets to buck this trend, showing a fall of6 per cent by value and 20 per cent by volume in bottled wine exports (MAT18 l ARGENTINA l WINE & SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007The family-owned cycle broke up afterthe economy opened up in the 1990s

Winemakers at Zuccardi – GustavoMartinez, Rodolfo Montenegro and RubenRuffo – form part of 550-strong workforceto March 2007, Wines of Argentina), albeit withan upturn of 18 per cent in the average caseprice and a surge from £3.55 to £3.70 in themean bottle selling price in the off-trade (MAT toApril 2007, Nielsen).The consensus of opinion among the familyownedArgentinian producers is that foreignTHERE SHOULD BE AN UPDATING,A MODERNISATION OF THE FAMILYFIRM IN A WAY THAT ALLOWS ITTO COMPETE EFFECTIVELY IN AGLOBAL MARKETthat they see themselves occupying a differentniche and satisfying a different market demand.Sánchez Nieto, who now owns the 11,000-case-production Eral Bravo winery, explains thatsmall-scale local wineries offer “a diversity andpersonality” that is crucial to the strategic goalsof Argentina.investment has been critical in establishing the nation as a quality globalproducer and, as such, has been a force for good in the country.“It has been a highly positive result all round,” asserts Matías SánchezNieto, whose family owned the Nieto Senetiner winery until they sold to thePérez Companc group in 1998. “Argentina had been highly introspective formany decades, focused purely on its own, very solid domestic market wherelarge volumes of wine were sold. The turnaround has been very rapidthough, and I believe that foreign investors were a great help in puttingArgentina on the map in terms of quality wine production,” he adds.However, while most of these family producers are happy to be surfing onthe bow wave of the larger foreign or corporate-owned wineries, it is clear“The world of wine should never lose the image of an artisanal business.The passion of a family winemaker is different from what the big corporationscan offer. Not better or worse – just different. They are two complementarymodels: the small family wineries depend upon the penetration of the bigboys, while the large wineries benefit from the image and quality of thesmaller players.”It is a point reinforced by José Alberto Zuccardi, owner and manager ofhis eponymous winery, who sees the value of family firms as imbuing thecountry’s wines with a sense of identity, linked to the history and characteristicsof the country.“The big corporations are geared towards profitability, and if it’s better&AUGUST 2007 l WINE SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 19▼

FAMILIESbusiness to invest in any [other] country then they’ll go there. Local familyfirms have roots in Argentina and this is a completely different type ofFinca Flichman’s exports haveput Argentinian wines on the mapcommitment to the region. In a country such as Argentina, where politicaland economic conditions can fluctuate, this is a very important factor.”Zuccardi is one of Argentina’s most prominent family-owned wineries,along with Catena Zapata. Laura Catena, daughter of owner Nicolás andvice-president of the company, also sees one of the principal values of thefamily controlling production as being the long-term perspective it affords.“I am the fourth generation of our family making wines in Argentina. Weare here to stay. We are not making wines so that we can turn around in afew years and sell the winery,” she says.She adds that the input and management style of the family also has adirect impact on the style of wines produced. “When my father and I aredeciding which blend to pick for Catena Alta Malbec, we don’t always agree.If I pick it one year, he does it the next. The style of wines will remain similarbecause the wines we make are the wines that my father and I like to drink.These wines should be called ‘family terroir wines ’.”The sense of wine as a way of life for the family producer, rather than amere business, is a recurrent theme. It is no coincidence that José AlbertoZuccardi named his winery Familia Zuccardi. The firm employs a staggering550 permanent staff – compare this with 150 in a similarly-sized winery suchas Finca Flichman (see box) – and this is largely to do with Zuccardi’spersonal ethic of creating employment and training opportunities for thelocal populace, as well as his hugely energetic and passionate nature, whichhas seen him open a restaurant, visitor centre and shop as well as nearlytrebling production in under seven years.“Wine can be treated as a business tool, and many banks or financialgroups are prepared to do that,” comments Zuccardi. “In many cases, thatkind of business focuses on the large scale and the wine can lose its fundamentalattributes and end up being managed by finance or logistics people.But wine takes on a different dimension when it’s a way of life.“After all, wine only becomes truly meaningful when it expresses not justthe climate or soil of a place, but also the passion of the people who makeit,” he adds.And yet the model of a traditional artisanal family producer making winesof the modern wine era. “We need to create a tradition of great wineswith character and personality.“To achieve that goal we need research and development , we needinvestment in technology , and we need people with commitment who lovewhat they do and the place they work.in his garage out back is not what Argentina“The fact that families work for the long termshould be focusing on, according to Juan COMPARE AND CONTRAST and not for the next quarter will be extremelyPelizzatti of Chakana.“Family firms do allow a small-scale businessmodel that has a firm link between the vineyardand the wines in the quest for unique personality.But I don’t believe that there should be some sortof ‘preservation’ of family culture . Instead, thereshould be almost an updating, a modernisationof the family firm in a way that enables it tocompete effectively in a global market.”It is a point taken up by Patricia Ortiz of FincasPatagónicas, a winery previously known as Tapizand owned by the US firm Kendall-Jackson buthas been in family hands since 2003.Ortiz sees her role as starting a family tradition,but one which is equipped to thrive in the realityThe family-owned firm:Familia ZuccardiNumber of permanent staff employed: 550Number of countries exporting to: 42Total production (litres): 10 millionTotal exports (litres): 6 millionTotal exports (US$): 16 millionThe foreign-owned firm:Finca Flichman (Sogrape)Number of permanent staff employed: 150Number of countries exporting to: 43Total production (litres): 8.5 millionTotal exports (litres): 4.6 millionTotal exports (US$): 11.2 millionimportant in this.”At this time of growth and expansion for theArgentinian wine industry, it is encouraging to seethe home-grown, family producers thriving andplanning for a successful future in a range ofcontexts, from the export-focused volumes ofZuccardi and Catena to the small but profitableniches of the boutique industry.The last word goes to Catena’s exportmanager, Jeff Mausbach. “The family wineriesare the best guardians in ensuring that our winesshowcase what is different, distinct and uniqueabout Argentina ,” he says. “They will be of greatimport in helping Argentina find its place amongthe great winemaking regions of the world.” W & S&20 l ARGENTINA l WINE SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007

WINE TRIPBOLIVIACHILESALTAPARAGUAY>CAFAYATE> > > >PACIFICOCEAN>CATAMARCALA RIOJABRAZIL> > > > >MENDOZAURUGUAYBUENOS AIRESARGENTINAATLANTICOCEANBus image: Andesmar22 l ARGENTINA l WINE & SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007

Bingo on the buses – the wayto take the road less travelledIt might be the age of air travel, but Joe Fattorini discovers that there’s moreto those tin cans on wheels when exploring Argentina’s winemaking frontiersThere will be someone there at the other end to meet me won’t there?” I communities who come to trade craft items. Then it’s on to the king ofasked Ariel Menneti of Wines of Argentina, who’d booked me onto the extreme vineyards. A further dusty, bumpy two-hour drive through theenormous Andesmar double-decker bus. “Of course,” he replied, in his monumental rock architecture of river gorges and dry flood plains takes youlanguid, Argentinian, not-entirely-convincing way, weaving through the to Bodega Colomé in Salta. Home of the world’s highest vineyards, thethrong of humanity filling the bus station. We were in Mendoza preparing to 2,200m altitude of the winery and luxury bodega seems lowly compared totravel 1,000km to one of the country’s more remote regions in the north. A the 3,000m vineyards further north – where plantings of Pinot Noir, Malbecquick look on a map of wine regions suggests that areas such as Catamarca, and several white varieties are adapting surprisingly well.La Rioja or Cafayate are a short trek north of Mendoza. Yet here the The bus journey I was embarking on was from Mendoza to Catamarcadistances are not national – they’re continental. Mendoza to Cafayate is no City, the dusty provincial centre for the province of the same name, to meetLondon to Coventry hop. It’s a Land’s End to John O’Groats marathon. Carlos Arizú and travel to his remote vineyard. Quite how remote wasn’t atI wouldn’t usually recommend a visitor take the bus in the UK. In first apparent. But that was of no concern when boarding the bus inArgentina, I wouldn’t recommend anything else. Settling into a luxurious seat Mendoza’s busy station. Class matters. Ariel had booked seats in first class.for a 10-hour journey, it’s clear that in this vast country, with no real rail Upstairs, bus travel is much as you’d imagine it. Families, big bags, partlynetwork and an airline timetable that is most usefully regarded as “indicative”, reclining seats, jostling. Down here, it’s business class travel. Lie-flatthis is the way to travel. And it takes you to theluxurious seats, blankets, pillows, toothbrushes,THE FIERCE, EYE-WATERINGLYmost unusual places.a hot meal and on-board entertainment on theBRIGHT SUNLIGHT OF THE DAYMendoza is prized as Argentina’s largest andflat-screen TV. But the main entertainment of theCOUPLED WITH THE PLUMMETINGmost consistent region and the source of itsjourney was democratic. Not long into the driveMERCURY AT NIGHT CONTRIBUTESfinest wines. But for quirkiness andthe conductor handed out little cards to everyoneTO SOME OF THE WORLD’Sexperimentation, anyone with a sense ofand it was eyes down for a remarkable game ofMOST EXCITING WINEMAKINGadventure should head north or south. To thebingo – a feature of all Andesmar bus journeys.south is the excitement of Patagonia: cool, windy, tough and bold. To the First prize? What else, but a bottle of Argentinian wine. Even if you skip thenorth, every 300km you travel closer to the equator and the temperature pages about greetings and making friends, it’s at least worth learning therises by 1ºC. But the winemaker’s rule of thumb is that if they plant their Spanish numbers in your phrase book.vineyards 100m higher, that in turn lowers the temperature by 1ºC. Vineyards “Argentinian air travel is the cause of more religious devotion in theare regularly found in deserts more than a mile high and aren’t considered country than anything else,” says José Manuel Ortega, the formerhigh altitude in the north unless they’re over 1,400m. But while the average investment banker from Spain, who now runs O Fournier. “Look around youtemperature may often mirror that in Mendoza, the fierce, intense, eyewateringlybright sunlight of the day coupled with the plummeting mercury connection,” he laughs. Everywhere we went the story was the same. “No,when your plane is delayed. Everyone is praying they’ll make theirat night contributes to some of the world’s most exiting winemaking.you’ll not get another connection today. Just book a room at the airport andTravellers heading north first pass through the dusty, warm province of La fly tomorrow,” said another winemaker into his mobile. But it’s more thanRioja which is home to La Riojana co-operative, one of the largest exporters just a case of buses getting you around the vast country far better thanto the UK, and Argentina’s Fairtrade winery. Then it’s on to Catamarca – the planes. Bus travel isn’t seen as a second-class service. José Albertodriest place in Argentina. Finally the extreme wine tourist makes it to Zuccardi may be one of the most successful exporters in the country, butCafayate, a beautiful valley of cool climate vineyards near the Bolivian border when he travels big distances he will happily go by bus. Not just because itand a trading post for the surrounding indigenous villages and hippy will get him there more quickly and reliably than complex connecting&AUGUST 2007 l WINE SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 23▼

WINE TRIPflights through Buenos Aires, but because it allows him to travel withordinary Argentinians. For foreigners too, this is a charming way to travel –as you see the real Argentina from a bus window.Or at least you see real Argentinians. We drove through the night,slumbering happily on the lie-flat seats and after 10 hours were gentlynudged awake by the conductor. We arrived on the outskirts ofCatamarca City just as dawn was breaking. A German couple yawned,while another woman changed into business clothing, readying herselffor the day ahead. A man strode over to the bus as we emerged into theearly morning cool. It was the promised host, Carlos Arizú of theCabernet de los Andes winery. Along withalong with another small outcrop of export-oriented vineyards a fewhours further north – lying on the border of Salta Province and Cafayate.We jumped into Arizú’s pick-up truck for the “short” four-hour journey toFiambalá – the City of the Winds. Here, wind , sun and altitude infuseArizú’s Vicien-branded wines with powerful perfume and intense flavour– this is real frontier winemaking.Tasting Arizú’s wines in the local hotel, he reveals how he moved fromthe winery. “I am a single man,” he explains. “Being on my own for such along time in the winery started to send me mad.” Arizú talked about hisdispute over water rights with the man in the next village. “I hate that man,”he mutters. “Last Christmas he and someBodega Don Diego these two wineries makeup the wine industry in Fiambalá. Winerieswere established here by early Spanish settlers,although many were previously dedicated toproducing raisins or bulk, domestic wine.Investors can see real potential in the area,HERE IN FIAMBALÁ, WIND, SUNAND ALTITUDE INFUSE THEVICIEN-BRANDED WINES WITHPOWERFUL PERFUME ANDINTENSE FLAVOUR – THIS ISREAL FRONTIER WINEMAKINGfriends were in a fight in a bar. He was stabbed,”he smiles. His face turning serious, he says:“But he lived, bah.” We stop by the house ofRaul, one of Arizú’s winemaking team. Raul’smother is spinning wool on a spinning wheelmade from an old bicycle. Then the source ofIntrepid Joe Fattorini is one of veryfew journalists who have enjoyedCarlos Arizú’s hospitalityimages: Joe Fattorini24 l ARGENTINA l WINE & SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007

Northern exposure: Carlos Arizúat the coalface of Argentina’s winemakingfrontier, Cabernet de los Andesthe wool comes sauntering out of the kitchen. “Ah yes, it is a ‘housesheep’,” explains Arizú . “This particular sheep has always lived here withthe family.”In the evening, Arizú drove us high into the hills to a series of thermalbaths. Under the moonlight and the Southern Cross, whole families enjoyedpicnics and barbecues with wine, while children jumped in and out of thehot pools, fed by volcanically warmed springs.“Carlos,” I ask, “you must get a lot people wanting to visit you here, eventhough it’s a bit remote.” He thought for a while. “You are the first non-Argentinian wine journalist to come here. Although lots of Argentinians havecome,” he assures me, explaining that few overseas travellers like to take thebus, so they miss out on some of the most interesting places. We sat in thebubbling pool, sipping Malbec and enjoying the starry night sky. “Carlos, tellme, how many Argentinian journalists have come to visit you here?” He turnsto me, counting in his head … “I think three” . W & STRAVELLING ARGENTINA STYLEIn Argentina dozens of bus companies offer business class travel. Thisis often quicker (and always cheaper) than connecting flights throughBuenos Aires. For around £22 Joe travelled some 1,000km withAndesmar, a leading bus company with an English language websitewhere you can book tickets. (www.andesmar.com).For truly intrepid travellers, getting to Fiambalá requires a hire caror pre-arranged taxi from Catamarca. There is no website for theHostería Municipal de Fiambala, but it is located on Calle Esquiu674 Fiambala, Catamarca, Argentina. Tel: +54 38 37 49 62 91 – Spanishspoken only. But it’s worth it once you get there.The wines of Cabernet de los Andes are sold under the Vicienname in the UK through Stone, Vine & Sun, www.stonevine.co.uk. Thewinery’s own homepage gives more background on the project andregion, visit www.tizac-vicien.com&AUGUST 2007 l WINE SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 25

ADVERTORIALCultivating excellenceUK agent: D&D Wines InternationalTel: 01565 650952Email: ddwi@ddwinesint.comWeb: www@ddwinesint.comBodegas Callia was created with the aim ofproducing not just the best wines in San Juan,but the best Shiraz in the whole of Argentina.Bodegas Callia is situated in the TulumValley in the San Juan province of Argentina.The 241 h a of the estate vineyard are blessedwith microclimates and diverse soils wellsuitedto grape growing. The vineyard team,familiar with the growing conditions in eachblock, match varieties with the ideal site inorder to cultivate the best wines possible.The winery is BRC and ISO 9001 certified.The wines of Bodegas Callia: Bodegas Calliacrafts Shiraz in a variety of styles. Some areyoung and fruity with rich red hues, whileothers are complex, full of flavour and ideal forageing. The winery also blends Shiraz with thevarietals that most complement the grape.Wine ranges: Grand Callia;Callia Magna; Callia AltaWith vineyards in Mendoza’s Uco Valley,Bodegas Salentein is changing the face ofArgentin ian wine growing. Salentein creates aglobal awareness of emerging premiumwineries in Argentina. With a new vision ofquality, with plantings of classic varieties,preservation of old vines, application ofEuropean artisanry and advanced technology,it is yielding world-class wines.Salentein estates are cultivated at a rangeof elevations, among the highest in the world(from 1,050m to 1,700m) and are irrigated withpure mountain run-off.The bodega design allows for customisedgentle handling of the grapes, reducing thedistance wine needs to be moved betweenwinemaking steps. It is also home to a newcultural and gastronomic centre called Killkawhich houses an art exhibition, an auditorium,a restaurant and a wine shop.The goal is to make high-quality Argentin ianwines while respecting and supporting thepeople, nature and community from the areaswhere the wines are created.Wine ranges: Salentein Primus; SalenteinNumina; Salentein Reserve and SalenteinWinemaker’s Selection.El Portillo is “the path between themountains”. In Mendoza’s Uco Valley, thisbodega nurtures vineyards with respect andadmiration for nature. Designed to preservethe Argentinian character and lush flavours ofthe grapes, the winery honours the quality offruit grown in these mountain vineyards.The beauty of the region inspired a uniquebodega, one that was made from the land, forthe land. Built with indigenous stone and otherlocal materials, the winery was designed withgravity-flow technology in mind, built up overthree levels that begins 10 metres belowground. The gentle handling of the fruit is theguiding principle behind the winery’s layout,achieved through subtle slopes that ease intothe landscape.Here, the technology and respect for naturecombine, to ensure the highest quality fruit isused in creating world-class wines.Freshness and youth characterise thevarietals of Finca el Portillo wines, witharomas lush with fruit and flavours expressiveof mountain vineyards.Varietals: Malbec, Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Noir,Rosé Malbec, Chardonnay and SauvignonBlanc.www.bodegascallia.com&www.bodegasalentein.com26 l ARGENTINA l WINE SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007www.bodegaelportillo.com

TORRONT ÉSRodolfo Luis Griguol helpedpave the way for improvingTorrentés in ArgentinaDespite Torrontés’ popularity in the UK10 years ago, its style no longer attractsthe current mass-market drinkerTasting the differenceJane Parkinson asks the experts why Torrentés hasn’t caught on with UK consumersVineyard worker image: Joe FattoriniArgentin ian Torrontés is a curiosity. It can make superb white wines andsome believe it has the potential to rival even the best Gewürztraminersof the world. It ’s versatile enough to come in many wine guises: sparkling,dry and sweet.Yet, as the Argentin ian white grape, it hasn’tmade a mark on the UK wine scene as theArgentin ian red grape, Malbec, seems to havedone. A comment made by Adam Marshall ofBottle Green – importer of Torrontés from LaRiojana – sums up its popularity. “It’s ourexperience that Torrontés sells three to five timesmore when labelled as Argentin ian white ratherthan naming the grape variety [on the label].”Part of the explanation for its failure to connectwith UK drinkers must lie in its history. Ten yearsago, Argentin ian Torrontés in the UK was ripe instyle, richly flavoured and very high in alcohol,making for a full-on white wine experience.It doesn ’t take a genius to realise that this style&28 l ARGENTINA l WINE SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007no longer attracts the mass-market drinker in the UK (look at the change infortune of overoaked Aussie Chardonnay ).So, over the past five years, the Torrontés coming into the UK haspresented more of a Riesling character , beingTHOSE IN THE KNOWsubtle yet fragrant and keeping that natural highAM: Alexander Meany, wine development alcohol in check.manager, Harvey-Miller Wine & Spirit Agencies The change in style has been helpedRM: Robbie Millar, director, Pampas Wines enormously by Rodolfo Luis Griguol, who is kingAdM: Adam Marshall, commercial director, of Torrontés to some, Argentina’s first doctor ofBottle Greenoenology and head winemaker at La Riojana toNB: Nick Butler, wine director, Bottle Green others. Griguol created a special yeast strain forDC: Des Cross, chief executive , Las Bodegas Torrontés (FAO geeks: LRV94/5) that enhancedSP: Solano Pena-Lenzi, managing director, the elegant characters of the grape and isHispa Merchantsnow widely used in Argentina for TorrontésJW: Jim Wilson, agency sales & marketing production.director, Hallgarten WinesSo why aren’t consumers latching on to theMB: Maddie Brant, marketing manager,wonders of Torrontés yet? And is this likely toVinoceroschange? We asked some of the UK’s leadingAB: Andrew Bayley, sales manager, JF Lurton Torrontés importers for their views.

IS TORRONTÉS INCREASING IN POPULARITY?“Once people taste our Torrontés, theybuy it. It certainly has its fans, and increasinglyso. But it’s still largely unknown to the generalconsumer. It needs to be put in tastings for it tosell . This works for the private and specialistretail trade, but will prove more difficult for thesupermarkets where substantial investment (instoretastings etc) will be required to educateconsumers to the variety if they are to sell betterquality, 100 per cent Torrontés. It has alsoproved fairly difficult in the on-trade, unless ithas the backing of a sommelier. Restaurantsand bars are wary of listing it, even if they like it,as they fear it will be too slow a seller and willrequire too much hand-selling. It’s still a winewe really have to push, and there are still plentyof retailers and wholesalers who don’t list aTorrontés. Unfortunately, it’s very low down ontheir list of priorities. The challenge is to turnthese buyers and their sales teams intoambassadors for the variety , which is no easytask.” AM“On the whole it has had a thumbs upfrom the consumer. It is unusual, with itsheavily-scented nose and spicy flavourcombinations. Stockists, as consumers, willpurchase on price and may at times require alower price to offer lesser-known varietals. Anyinformed stockist should, by now, know whatTorrontés is all about. It’s the perfect candidateto become increasingly popular, but thisdepends on availability at the point of sale.” RM“Torrontés is not in demand from themajor UK retailers. It’s not seen as apremium grape variety. So, it’s preferred as ablend or disguised as Argentinian white. Thelatest Niels en data shows a 20.5 per centincrease in the grocery multiples for Torrontésas a single varietal. However, the varietal doesnot appear in the impulse category stats as asingle grape, but as a blend – Chardonnay/Torrontés (Source: Nielsen MAT growth year onyear Jan 21 2007).” AdM“Torrontés in the UK – I would say themajority of the volume would be soldas Argentin ian white or in blends. Anincreasing number of SKU s are sold as varietalwine in a broader range of price points, I wouldguess at £3.99 to £7.99.” N B“ I believe it is becoming more popular inthe U K. The main issue is that most peoplehave n ’t heard of it and the best way to getconverts is to get them to try it. I have not foundanyone yet who has tried it and not bought it.This is both on a consumer and trade level.Based on my company’s experience, it is seeingdramatic growth with a considerable increase inthe number of stockists – right across the boardand not just in the specialist sector. Of course Iam selling it to Majestic as well as restaurantsand independents, but more wine merchantsare taking it and with Makro buying from me it isappearing in more places. I have also hadenquiries from the very large retailers.” DC“Torrontés is in more demand and littleby little, we are getting more interest in thevarietal.” SP“Sales are improving, though it is a longway from being ‘popular’ in the pure sense ofthe word. I would rather say that it is in widerdistribution.” AB“A difficult question. There’s no doubt that itis acknowledged as one of the two uniqueselling point varieties of Argentina, so wine tradeprofessionals all want to sample your Torrontés,but the grape does not seem to have struck achord with the general public, which isfrustrating . Especially, given its obvious andupfront fruitiness, ease of pronunciation and thewillingness of the trade to get behind it.” JWIS IT UNDERRATED? UNDERVALUED? OR JUST MISUNDERSTOOD?“I think there’s an element of it still beingunderrated as a serious wine by a largesection of the wine trade, so it doesn’t get handsoldto the consumer as it perhaps should. Inaddition, it is still not understood by manyconsumers due to limited investment in theArgentin ian category as a whole and the lack ofmajor Argentin ian brands employing Torrontés. Italso isn’t, as far as I can see, being pushed bythe major national on-trade wholesalers – theyare too busy pushing the likes of Gallo Rosé onthe rocks! Torrontés as a variety will need thesupport and push from the major players.” AM“I don’t think it is undervalued orunderrated by the UK consumer. If it weremore widely available and advertised, as is thecase with Malbec, it would be an additionaldistinctive white to add to the classicsthat already have a place in the consumers’minds – such as Chardonnay, SauvignonBlanc or Pinot Grigio .” RM“The variety is not understood, yet withgrape varieties becoming more ‘trend’ orientedwith UK consumers – Australian Chardonnayin 2003, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc from2003 to 2006 and Italian Pinot Grigio from 2006to the present – maybe Argentin ian Torrontéswill be 2007 to 2009. It is lookingquite promising!” MB“ It’s not understood. Customers don’t knowabout it, so it needs to be explained beforethey’ll buy. The floral nose deceives them. Theythink the wine will be sweet, or off-dry, and thenit’s bone dry.” SP“It is not yet understood. At best, distributionremains patchy, although it has improvedsomewhat.” AB“A bit of everything. It is certainly underrated;at its best it can sometimes get close toGew ürztraminer in terms of style. It is probablynot understood for the simple reason that it canbe a difficult grape for the average consumer toappreciate . Given the style of the grape, the factthat it can be produced in a number of stylesand – no getting round this – some of the lowerend examples can lack character.” JW&AUGUST 2007 l WINE SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 29▼

TORRONTÉSIS ITS DISTINCTIVE FLORAL CHARACTER A HELP OR A HINDRANCE TO ITS SUCCESS?“It is certainly an asset in as much as it doesnot overlap any other white wine and can havea unique selling point.” RM“It’s is an asset, approachable andmemorable. I’d go so far as to say thecharacter is fruit filled, great for lazy summerafternoons and easy drinking . Perfect for theUK palate.” MB“I believe its unique characteristics area benefit as there really is nothing else quitelike it.” DC“Both. Its stand-out character means itworks well as a blend, but as single varietalcan be overpowering for some consumers.The work being done by our wine directorNick Butler and La Riojana is to make amore commercial Torrontés style, anddevelop wines with a more Riesling-likequality.” AdM“Its character must be viewed as an asset(as an excellent white with seafood and spicyfoods), but naturally there is also an element ofthis being a hindrance, too. The alcohol level ofsome needs to be tempered ; ours has reacheda high of 14.5 per cent in 2006, up from 14 percent in 2005. This is too high for a white wine;especially one that is being recommended as arefreshing, summer white. I have also foundquite a few Torrontés I have tasted to be a littleunbalanced, often overly racy and overworked.This results in palate fatigue halfway through abottle. I believe winemakers should focus a littlemore on balance, texture and drinkability, whilestill maintaining the distinctive character. I’msure the more successful versions are madeby winemakers doing just that. It will of courseturn some people off, who are not fond ofthis style.” AM“Both. As an asset, it’s a unique wine, hasexcellent selling point in differentiation, and it’s awine that once fashionable, everybody will like.It’s a hindrance in the sense that, until it’srenowned, people are not prepared for whatthey’re having.” SP“It has to be an asset in today’shomog enised world of neutrality! In the twoTorrontés wines from Bodega Lurton we focuson the elegant floral characteristics of thevarietal combined with good fresh acidityensuring that balance is maintained. This is astyle we believe is suitable for the UK consumerand distinctively attractive.” AB“A bit of both. Just as a wine lover does notmind paying more for quality wine, putting himat odds with the majority of consumers who justwant something on promotion, the character ofthis grape will appeal to a few people and putoff many more. It is best appreciated atcommercial level in a blend with a morerecognisable and neutral grape.” JWTorrontés tends to sell better whenlabelled as “Argentinian white”DID YOU KNOW?1. The three varieties of Argentin ian Torrontésare: Sanjuanino, Riojan a and Mendocino2. Sanjuani no and Riojan a are thought tobe crossings of Muscat of Alexandria andMission (from California)3. The average UK off-trade price of singlevarietal Torrontés in the UK is about £3.99&30 l ARGENTINA l WINE SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007TORRONTÉS ON THE SHELF: WHAT TO BUY AND WHERETorrontés, Rincon Privado, Mendoza 2006, £4.99+ A G Parfett & Sons, Bonafide Wines,Laymont & Shaw, The Vintner’s SelectionSingle Vineyard Torrontés, Tilimuqui Fairtrade, Mendoza 2006, £5.49, WaitroseFairtrade Organic Torrontés, La Riojana, Mendoza 2006 £67.70 (12), www.traidcraftshop.co.ukTorrontés, Bodega Lurton, Mendoza, £5.99+ Flying Corkscrew, Harrods, Milton Sandford,Edward Sheldon, St Martin VintnersReserva Torrontés, Tittarelli Estate, Mendoza 2006, £6.49+ Bedales, Liquid Wholesale,Great GrogPremium Torrontés, Alta Vista, Mendoza, £6.80, Lay & WheelerTorrontés, O Fournier, Mendoza, 2007, £6.99+ Coe of Ilford,Great Grog, everywine.co.ukTorrontés, Crios de Susana Balbo, Mendoza 2007,£6.99+ Majestic, Cavas de Gaucho, Hotel du Vin, Sussex WineCompany, City BeveragesFlor de Torrontés, Bodega Lurton, Mendoza 2006, £7.49+Harrods, Hispa Merchants, Morgenrot Chevaliers, RobersonTorrontés, Finca El Retiro, Mendoza 2006, £7.99+ Harvey-MillerWine & Spirit AgenciesTorrontés Tapiz, Mendoza 2006, £7.99+ Philglas & Swiggot,Morgenrot Chevaliers, Promotion WineDon David Torrontés, Michel Torino, Mendoza 2006, £7.99+Twisted Vine, Planet of the Grapes, Noel Young WinesFairtrade Torrontés, Viñedos de la Posada, Mendoza 2006,£4.99+ NISA Todays, Booths, Landmark Wholesale,AG Parfett & Sons W & S

TOP 10 ARGENTINIAN VARIETAL WINESThe bestof the bunchSimon Woods chooses 10 wines from10 different varieties grown in ArgentinaIt may be a cliché , but Argentina really does occupy a very satisfactoryhalfway house between the Old World and the New. Thanks to Europeanimmigration in the 19th century, the country boasts an eclectic portfolio ofgrape varieties. What’s more, 150 years of experience with these grapeshas taught the locals which varieties perform best in which vineyards, aswell as providing a plethora of magnificent old vines. That’s the Old Worldbit. The New World angle has emerged in the past 15 years. Prompted bytumbling domestic consumption, the wineries began in the early 1990sto look to overseas markets. What they discovered was that the styles ofwines that went down a storm at home didn’t always find favour on theinternational stage. Much effort has been expended since then in upgradingvineyards and wineries, exploring newer, more extreme regions, andtweaking the blends. On occasion the tweaks have been a little too severe,resulting in overoaked concoctions that could have come from anywhere.But the better wines offer modern, fresh fruit flavours with a more satisfyingcomplex face and – yes – a healthy dose of Latin passion. Ten grapevarieties, ten wines – dive in.SYRAHSyrah, Pascual Toso, Mendoza 2005£5.99+ Reserve Wines, Wright Wine CoThanks to the efforts of Californian PaulHobbs (who also makes somespectacular reds in Mendoza under hisown Viña Cobos label), there’s not adud wine in the Pascual Toso portfolio.The whites are good, but the reds arebetter. This lively, lightly oaked Syrahsits on the lowest tier of the range, buti s still immensely satisfying wine, withabundant plum, cherry and blackberryfruit, a twist of black pepper, and afresh, earthy finish.MALBECMalbec, Lindaflor, Mendoza 2003£28.50, FriarwoodWith so much fine Malbec being produced in Argentina, picking just oneis very much a case of shutting your eyes and pointing. I’ve settled onthis gem from Catherine Péré-Vergé, owner of Château Le Gay andMontviel in Pomerol. Monteviejo is part of the Michel Rolland-inspiredClos de los Siete project – and this sumptuous red has the Rollandthumbprint (rather than footprint) all over it. Rich and supple, brimmingwith berry and blackcurrant fruit with a complex, almost meaty/leatheryfinish, it’s a total star.BONARDABonarda, Alamos, Mendoza 2005£6.49, BoothsIf anyone knows the precise origins ofBonarda, please drop me a line. Italyhas a number of grapes with thesame name, and they’re all differentfrom the Argentin ian version. Thiswine, from the excellent CatenaZapata winery, is tasty, meat-friendlyand moreish regardless of itsparentage. It’s a friendly soul, withfloral hints, notes of liquorice, redberries and toasty vanilla (from lightoak ageing), and a sprightly finish.A stylish glugger.CABERNET SAUVIGNONQ Cabernet Sauvignon, Familia Zuccardi, Mendoza 2002£9.49, WaitroseWhen I first visited Argentina in the mid-1990s, it was a rare winerywhere the Cabernet Sauvignon outclassed the Malbec. However, thelast decade has seen the country’s winemakers raise the Cabernetstakes. At many bodegas, the two grapes now run neck and neck, andat the dynamic Zuccardi family winery I’d even say the Cabernet has itsnose in front. This 2002 shows some leathery maturity, but there’s stillplenty of bright berry fruit, chewy tannin and a rich earthy finish.32 l ARGENTINA l WINE & SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007

SAUVIGNON BLANCSaurus Select Sauvignon Blanc, Familia Schroeder,Patagonia 2005£7.99, Moreno (2006 coming to Tesco soon)Schroeder is, for me, the pick of the wineries in theregion of Neuquén , Patagonia. Although dinosaurbones were found when the foundations for thebodega were being excavated in the early 1990s,there’s nothing prehistoric about the wines. This rich,but zippy, Sauvignon has been partially barrelfermented, and with its pithy guava and citrus fruitflavours, kissed with notes of vanilla, it bears morethan a passing resemblance to a decent CalifornianFumé Blanc.MERLOTColeccion Merlot, Michel Torino, Cafayate 2006£5.49+, everywine.co.uk, One World, Wines of Interest, HanslopeWines, Village Wines, Coasters, Kevin O’Rourke, HallgartenA Mr Michel married a Miss Torino, established a winery in Cafayate andthe rest, as they say, is history. Today the winery is part of the Peñaflorgroup and is perhaps best known for its Torront és and Malbec. Even so,this Merlot, rich in fruit, but with a refreshing leafy edge and earthy finish,deserves attention. And if you’re in Cafayate, check out the wonderfulPatios de Cafayate Hotel & Spa slap -bang in the middle of the MichelTorino estate.PINOT NOIRBlack River Reserve Pinot Noir, Humberto Canale, Rio Negro 2005£9.95, Ashley Scott, D Byrne, everywine.co.uk, HwCgArge ntina is still some way from finding an ideal spot for Pinot Noir, butdown in Rio Negro, a small number of producers seem to beprogressing along the right lines. If you can’t track down Chacra, a tinywinery involving Piero Incisa della Rocchetta (of Sassicaia fame) andHans Vinding-Diers, settle for this gem from Canale. It’s a headyyoungster, with wild cherry and raspberry flavours tinged with nuancesof caramel, and a long, svelte finish.TORRONT ÉSTorrontés, Bodegas Colomé, Salta 2006£6.99, Bryan Ford’s, everywine.co.uk, HandfordWines, Noel Young WinesDonald Hess-owned Bodegas Colomé claims to beboth the oldest working winery in Argentina and alsoowner of the world’s highest vineyards – can anyonetop 3,015 m ? While best known for its red wines,Colomé’s Torront és is one of the best examples ofthe grape you’ll come across and deserves attention.Exotic and musky, rich and honeyed, yet with anabundance of fresh citrus fruit, it manages the trickytask of being both full in body and refreshing.VIOGNIERViognier, Trivento, Mendoza 2006£4.99,0 WaitroseIs there a better value Viognier anywherein the world? This tasty youngster from theArgentin ian arm of Chilean behemothConcha y Toro gushes with lush peachand apricot flavours, and has just theright amount of zippy acidity to preventeverything from turning too wobbly. Addclassic hints of apricot kernel and youhave a wine that, although certainly notthe best wine you’ll ever find, is a totalbargain (as is Trivento’s similarly pricedOtra Vida Viognier).CHARDONNAYChardonnay, Pulenta Estate, Mendoza 2005£6.95, Berry Bros & RuddWhile Argentina isn’t exactly awash with fine Chardonnay, the producersdeserve a collective pat on the back for not burdening their wines withexcessive ripeness and heavy oak. So while this example from thePulenta Estate offers generous fruit and a nutty vanilla character fromoak maturation, there’s also a streak of zesty acidity to maintain dignity.It’s not in the same class as Pulenta’s excellent Gran Corte red blend,but it would go down a storm with roasted monkfish.AUGUST 2007 l WINE & SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 33

ADVERTORIALBodegas Trapiche“Our condition as leaders of the wine industryis a big responsibility with our consumers.We’re the image of the Argentinian wine. Thatfills us with pride, but it is also a position oftrust”, according Trapiche’s chief winemaker,Daniel Pi.Trapiche is paving the way in Argentina’swine industry, both in terms of quality andinnovation, and numerous trophywins confirm this leadership inArgentina’s wine industry.Trapiche is located at the foothillsof the Andes and is the mostworldwide known Argentin ianbrand, exporting today 1.3million cases to more than 60countries . Its vineyardsrepresent the best of theArgentinian terroir and its winesreceived awards in Argentinaand internationally.Richness of diversityThroughout its history, Trapichehas understood like no one elseThe latest international awards include:■ Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard: Viña Pedro González 2004 – Gold medal:Argentina Wine Awards – February 2007■ Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard Viña Victorio Coletto 2004 – Gold medal:Argentina Wine Awards – February 2007■ Argentinian Wine Producer of the Year 2004: International Wine & Spir its Competition■ Argentinian Wine Producer of the Year 2006: International Wine & Spir its Competition■ Trapiche Medalla 2003 – Gold medal – Best in class: International Wine and Spirits Competition –UK, July 2006&34 l ARGENTINA l WINE SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007the strength of the viticulture in Argentina. Ithas speciali sed in obtaining the best fromevery site to create exceptional wines.This diversity is expressed in more than1,000ha of its own vineyards and obtaininggrapes from more than 200 independentproducers in the best winegrowing areas ofArgentina.An example of this is the winery’slatest project: Trapiche MalbecSingle Vineyard, launched in 2005.Every year, the best three Malbecsfrom more than 90 vineyards arechosen. They are producedseparately, following the samewinemaking process, andcompete to be Trapiche MalbecSingle Vineyard of each year.The excellence of itsprofessional employees and theconstant emphasis on training isreflected in Trapiche’s quality.Wines with the finest fruitaromas and most intense colourmark out the t ypicity of thevariety. In all its wines, Trapiche offers the bestoption for every occasion, ensuring“overdelivery” of quality at each price point.Trapiche’s portfolioTrapiche has a wide portfolio of wines forevery consumption occasion, always adaptingto a market in constant evolution, and offersthe largest varietal choice in South America.Its portfolio covers entry-level range Asticaand Falling Star to the ultra-premium whichincludes Broquel, Medalla, Trapiche MalbecSingle Vineyard and Iscay, passing through thepremium range with Trapiche Varietals and thesuper-premium with Trapiche Oak Cask.Trapiche has always been a pioneer inArgentinian wine and today it lays before theworld the great potential of its terroirs.Bodegas Trapiche+54 261 5207210jorti@trapiche.com.arwww.trapiche.com.arUK off -tradeBrand Phoenix +44(0) 1306 743414Kate Collins – kcollins@brandphoenix.co.ukUK on -trade and selected retailersHBJ Wines & Spirits +44 (0)20 7922 1612Belinda Stone – belinda.stone@hbjwines.co.uk

SHIRAZ TASTINGAnd all that Shiraz ...Jane Parkinson discovers the consumer-friendly nature of this grape in ArgentinaFive years ago, an Argentin ian Shiraz tasting would have been nothinglike this,” mused James Forbes, head of Wines of Argentina UK, as hesipped the winning red while munching on his buffet lunch.The tasting panel agreed. Not so long ago Malbec was the one and onlyvoice of red Argentin ian wine in this country. However, on the basis of thistasting, Argentina is making some cracking Shiraz es to more than rival itsMalbec counterparts.The tasting revealed two consistent themes. First , likeability. TheOnly one or two showed signs of alcohol heat on the palate , which is anothertrait that can spell the ruination of many a New World Shiraz.Interestingly, none of the top six wines came from the main current releasevintage of Argentin ian Shiraz, that of 2006. The only, and satisfying, conclusionto be reached from this is : if you buy a bottle there’s no need to drink itstraight away. Keep it for a year or so and it may well pay dividends.There’s no doubt producers see the potential . Argentina is the third largestplanter of Shiraz vines in the world (behind France and then Australia). And,commercial nature of these wines was impressive: ripe fruit, identifiable Shirazcharacteristics (pepper and spice), smooth tannins, and balanced acidity.A nother panel taster, Derek Smedley MW, said: “They’re consumer friendly.Even the young and obviously inexpensive wines were perfectly good.”Second , refined character. Wines from thein the new Syrah du Monde competition two months ago, one of the top 10wines (out of 352 entrants) came from Argentina. For the record, there wasonly one Australian wine in the top 10.Given the dramatic progress of the last five years in Argentinian Shiraz, allWine & Spirit can say is roll on the next five .cooler climate areas have an added fragrance tothe normal punchy flavours found in Shiraz, acharacter that can be lost when producing it inwarmer climes. Alcohol levels are also affectedby this environment. In this case, the number ofwines with well-balanced alcohol was impressive .TASTERSJames Forbes, Wines of Argentina : DerekSmedley MW, co-chairman InternationalWine Challenge ; Michael Buriak, seniorlecturer Wine & Spirit Education Trust ; andJane Parkinson, Wine & Spirit* Wines are listed in descendingorder of score. Scores are basedon the International WineChallenge’s scoring system.1 Magna Shiraz,Callia, San Juan 2005£7.99, D&D Wines InternationalDark and chocolatey nose . Verytoasty oak . Quite classy. Soft androunded. JFBramble with red fruits on the nose.Fleshy black fruit on the palate. DS3 Syrah, El Solar,Mendoza 2004£5.50, The Wine SocietyBramble and mulberries. Quite sweet.Has some depth. Complexity, withmeaty characters yet has somefreshness. DSSweet fruit with a leathery core.Good fruit and nice texture on thefinish. JP5 Syrah, Pascual Toso,Mendoza 2005£5.99 + Reserve Wines, Wright Wine CoSweet, black fruit nose withconcentrated liquorice and spice onthe palate. Good focus and length,but integrated and a touch dry on thefinish. JFA dark and broody wine with meaty,leathery characters and noticeabletannins. JP2 Oak Cask Syrah,Trapiche, Mendoza 2005£6.99, HBJBlack fruits and toasty oak.Attractive, round and soft withgenerous red and black fruits. Goodconcentration and integration butwith pretty good length. JFA creamy, sexy nose. Soft and herbywith roast meat and freshness too.Robust style , smokiness and goodbalance. JP4 Syrah, Raza,Famatina Valley 2003£19.99, Virgin WinesPowerful, minty, herbal andblackcurrants on the nose. Lots ofnew oak. Very New World in style. Acredit to Shiraz. And a very heavybottle! MBConcentrated purple fruits, wellbalanced and a good length. Wellintegrated, maybe just a touch toomuch extraction. JF6 Polo Profesional Shiraz,La Chamiza, Mendoza 2005£6.95, World Wine AgenciesFirm on the nose, peppery, spicy.Fruity and quite good. This has styleand complexity. DSPure purple fruits, lovely pure andjuicy fruit , well balanced with foodlength and spice lingering. JFAUGUST 2007 l WINE & SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 35

SHIRAZ TASTING7 Reserve Syrah, Casa Latina,Central Valley 2006£5.99 (approx), no UK stockistVery black colour. Spicy fruit, goodfocus ed palate, fresh, bright, softand juicy. JFVery rich bramble nose. Somefirmness with a ripe feel to it. Easyand fleshy aromas. DS11 Alta Shiraz, Callia,San Juan 2006£5.99, D&D Wines InternationalRed and black fruits with a fleshypalate and fruit sweetness on thefinish. DSConcentrated cassis with purity.Round, ultra-clean fruit thoughslightly overripe, but with enoughacidity to carry it off. JF15 Syrah Reserva, SantaJulia, Mendoza 2006£6.99 (approx), contact Thierry’sVery dark purple colour. A pretty,fragrant nose. Light and fresh, acharming wine. JPBlack berry on the nose, sweet andlush to start with. A mix of black andred fruit on the finish. DS8 Otra Vida Shiraz, Trivento,Mendoza 2006£4.99, Sainsbury’sVery attractive nose of perfumedblack fruits. Good core and lovelybright black and purple fruits. JFGood perfume, sweetish ripe herbalcherry fruit. MB12 Santa Julia Syrah, FamiliaZuccardi, Mendoza 2006£4.99 (approx), Thierry’sRestrained black fruit nose. Juicypalate with fresh purple fruits anda leafy green note. JFTannic with black fruits and adusty finish. MB16 Reserva Shiraz, Inti,Famatina Valley 2006£6.99, James Hall & Co, Nisa, TodaysIntense nose, big fleshy berry fruitand full-bodied. MBIntensely herbal and gravy nose.Fresh but robust. Juicy palate withsome concentrated flavours. JP9 Vino Reserva Shiraz, FincaFlichman, Mendoza 2005£5.99, WaitrosePerfumed and spice. Sweet ripecherry. MBPure spice and peppery. A touch drytowards the back. DS13 Tanguero Shiraz, FincaFlichman, Mendoza 2005£4.99+ Laytons, Stevens Garnier,Walter HicksSweet oak and fruit. Plenty of layers,creamy, earthy and rounded. JPCompact fruit with some spice. Dryon the finish. JF17 Syrah, Trapiche,Mendoza 2006£5.99, HBJSweet pepper, spice and red fruits.Ripe tannins and a fair length. DSBright, creamy nose with a hintof smoke. Nice fruit, for earlydrinking. JP10 Gestos Shiraz, FincaFlichman, Mendoza 2006£5.99, MajesticDeep and powerful. Huge blackfruit, new oak, long finish. Needstime. MBVery powerful on the nose. Firmon the palate. DS14 Vino Reserva Shiraz,Finca Flichman,Mendoza 2006£5.99, WaitrosePerfumed with violets and cherries.Very tannic. MBSweet fruit and fresh. Ripe andjuicy on the palate with plenty oftannins . JP18 Shiraz, SelecciónEspecial, Tulum ValleyEstate, San Juan 2006£7.99, TescoGreen notes on the nose blow awayto lovely black fruits, perfumed andminty. Fruit balanced andmoreish. JF36 l ARGENTINA l WINE & SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007

19 Shiraz, Graffigna,San Juan 2006£4.99, WaverleyLovely bright fruit, leathery andherby with a sense of place. JPRipe red fruit and on the middlepalate they have the tannins . Atouch dry on the finish. DS23 Syrah, Candela,Mendoza 2004Contact PLBOver-extracted and a touch hollow.Compact wine, sweet and ripe blackfruit with some spice but showing thealcohol. JFChewy, savoury, tannic andlengthy. MB27 Oak-aged Misterio Shiraz,Finca Flichman,Mendoza 2006£4.99, Stevens GarnierPower on the nose. Quite raw blackfruits. Powerful with sweet, ripetannins. DSBig, dense dried fruit. Fig and prunelikenose. Concentrated and alcoholicstuff. JF20 Syrah Privado,Etchart, Salta 2005£5.49, Matthew ClarkVery ripe and fruity with blackcurrantsand leather. Subtle sweet fruit at theback with a touch of heat on thefinish. JPGreen tomato nose, juicy red fruitsand a spik y palate. JF24 Argentine Shiraz,Mendoza NV£2.99, TescoBright floral nose, light in weightwith fresh red fruits and leafy greenedges. Quaffable but notserious. JFLike alcoholic jam: light, red-cherriedfruit. MB28 Finest Reserve Shiraz,Mendoza 2006£4.99, TescoBlack-fruited with decentconcentration, a little onedimensional. JPBlack fruit, a bit rustic and lackingstructure. DS21 Shiraz, Las Moras,San Juan 2005£5.99, Co-OpA certain elegance. Smoky withcedar notes and ages relativelywell. MBBrambley fruit, quite light and dry onthe palate. DS25 Shiraz, Las Olas,Mendoza 2006£4.99, Patriarche Wine Agencies,everywine.co.ukGreen pepper spice and sweet redfruits on the palate. A slightly hollowmidd le palate. DSSimple and lacks fruit, feels alittle tired. JF29 Syrah, Viento Sur 2005£5.99, FreixenetA savoury, meaty nose. Very spicy andwell-integrated oak. Needs time. MBMeaty nose. Dry palate. DS22 Syrah, FincaDon Domenico deHuanacache, San Juan 2006£7.99 (approx) Fields, Morris & VerdinRather rustic on the nose. Morejuicy flavours towards the back ofthe palate. DSCreamy, nutty aromas, earthy.Decent tannins , blackcurrantdominant on the finish. JP26 Slinky Shiraz,Famatina Valley 2006£3.49, MorrisonsDecent fragrance with some smokyhints and red fruits. Perhaps a touchburnt on the palate. JPQuite sweet on the nose andstart of the palate. Lacks a bitof heart. DS30 Los Cardos Syrah, DoñaPaula, Mendoza 2005£5.99, OddbinsVery unusual nose. Tropicaland citru sy. No doubt Viognierinfluenced, lacks varietalcharacter. JFWet moss and salad on thenose, bizarre. JPAUGUST 2007 l WINE & SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 37

CONTACTSDirectoryAlta VistaUK contact: Lay & Wheeler, 0845 330 1855,www.altavistawines.comAndelunarodrigo@familiareina.com,www. andeluna.comAntigalazaragoza@bodegaantigal.com,www.bodegaantigal.comAntucuraU K contact: Hallgarten, 01582 722538,www.antucura.comBarale Biurru njmbarale@baralebiurru n.com,www.baralebiurru n.comBeau Lieu – MendelUK contact: Playford Ros,01845 526777,www.mendel.com.arBelasco de BaquedanoCarlos Navarro,carlos@caminosdelvino.com.arBenvenuto de la Serna– Colle di Boasidf@collediboasisa.com.ar,www.collediboasisa.com.arC abernet de los Andestizwine@yahoo.com.arwww.tizac-vicien.comCalliaUK contact: D&D Wines , 01565 650952,www.bodegascallia.comCatena ZapataUk contact: Bibendum, 020 7449 4110,www.catenawines.comCavas de l 23alejandro@cavasdel23.com.ar,www.cavasdel23.com.arChakanaUK contact: Lane & Tatham,01380 720123,www.chakanawines.com.arChandon – Terrazas de los AndesUK contact: Moët Hennessy,020 7235 9411,www.chandon.com.arChacrapolo@bodegachacra.comwww.bodegachacra.com&Clos de los SieteUK contact: Dourthe, 020 7720 6611,ww.clos7.com.arCK y asociadosJorge Alvarezinfo@ckasociados.com.arColoméUK contact: Peter Lehmann , 01227 731353,www.bodegacolome .comBodega Dante RobinoUK contact: Whittaker Wines, 01663 764497www.bodegarobino.comDe los Clopsicilia@bodegadelosclop.comwww.bodegadelosclop.comBodega del fin del Mundoaviola@bdfm.com.arwww.bodegadelfindelmundo.arDominio del Platalsanti@dominiodelplata.com.arwww.dominiodelplata.com.arDon CristobalUK contact: Jackson Nugent, 020 8947 9722,www.doncristobal.com.arDoña PaulaUK contact: Berkmann Wine Cellars,020 7609 4711,www.donapaula.com.arEl Porvenir de los Andesluciaromero @bodegaselporvenir.comwww.bodegaselporvenir.comEral Bravomsancheznieto @eralbravo.comwww.eralbravo.comBodegas Escorihuela GascónUK contact: PLB, 01342 318282www.escorihuela.comBodegas EtchartUK contact: Pernod Ricard UK, 020 8538 4484,adrian.atkinson@pernod-ricard-uk.comFabre MontmayouUK contact: Oakley, 01787 220070Familia Blanco – Viños Mairenafamiliablanco@vinosmairena.com.arwww.vinosmairena.com.arFamilia SchroederUK contact: Moreno Wine Direct, 020 7 286 0678www.familiaschroeder. ar38 l ARGENTINA l WINE SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007Familia ZuccardiUK contact: Thierry’s, 01794 507100,www.familiazuccardi.comFeCoVitAexport@fecovita.comwww.toro-fecovita.com.arFinca El Origenqwilliams@fincaelorigen.com.arwww.fincaelorigen.com.arFinca FlichmanUK contact: Stevens Garnier, 01865 263300,www.flichman.com.arFinca La CeliaUK contact: Buckingham Vintners,01753 521336,www.fincalacelia.com.arFinca Las MorasUK contact: Chalié Richards,01798 817235,www.fincalasmoras.com.arFinca Los Mazajuan@mazatonconogy.com.arwww.mazatonconogy.com.arFinca Sopheniaroberto_luka@sophenia.com.arwww.sophenia.com.arFosterUK contact: Private Cellar, 01353 721999www.bodegafoster.comFreixenetUK contact: Freixenet, 01344 758500,www.freixenet.com.arFundación de MendozaUK contact: Myliko Wines, 0161 736 9500www.f undaciondemendoza.comGouguenheim Winery – ValleEscondido Gonzalo Escondidogonzalo@gougenheimwinery.com.arwww.gouguenheimwinery.com.arHumberto Canaleguillermo@bodegahcanale.comwww.bodegah canale.comJean BousquetUK contact: The Cellaret, 0845 226 0197www.jeanbousquet.comKaik enUK contact: Prestige Agencies,01845 526777,www.kaikenwines.com

La ChamizaUK contact: World Wine Agencies, 01608 658062,www.lachamiza.comLa RiojanaUK contact: Bottle Green, 0113 205 4500,www.lariojana.com.arLa RuralUK contact: Bibendum, 020 7449 4110,www.larural.comLagardeUK contact: Coe Vintners, 020 8851 4966,www.lagarde.com.arLas Perdicesanibalmarin@lasperdices.comwww.lasperdices.comBodegas LavaqueUK contact: Vinoceros, 01209 341711,www.lavaque.comLos Haroldoscomercioexterior@vinadebalbo.comwww.familiafalasco.com.arLuigi BoscaUK contact: H&H Bancroft, 020 7232 5450www.luigibosca.com.arMasi Tupungatoavallenari@masi.itwww.masi.itMarta’s VinyardUK contact: Marta’s Vin yard, 020 7838 9311,www.martasvinyard.comMedrano EstateUK contact: Moreno Wine Direct,020 7286 0678,www.filuswine.comMelipalsantamaria@bodegamelipal.comwww.bodegamelipal.comMendoza Vineyardsrichard@mendozavineyards.comwww.mendozavineyards.comMichel TorinoUK contact: Vinimpo, 01932 827150www.micheltorino.com.arMillasanaliamillas@bodeagsmillashnos.com.arwww.bodeagsmillashnos.com.arMonteviejoUK contact: Dourthe, 020 7720 6611,www.monteviejo.comNavarro Correasmanuel.s.lanus@diageo.comwww.ncorreas.comNieto SenetinerUK contact: Capricorn Wines,0161 908 1300,www.nietosenetiner.com.arBodega Noem íaUK contact: Liberty Wines, 020 7720 5350,www.bodeganoemia.comNofal Alonsomendoza@bodeganofal.com.arwww.bodeganofal.com.arNomadetomasachaval@nomadewines.comwww.nomadewines.comNortonUK contact: Berkmann Wine Cellars,020 7609 4711,www.norton.com.arNQNlucasnemesio@bodeganqn.com.arwww.bodeganqn.com.arO FournierUK contact: Seckford Agencies, 01206 231188,www.bodegasofournier.comPascual TosoUK contact: Stratford’s, 01628 810606,www.toso.com.arPermasurflorencia.ferreira@ landelia.comwww. landelia.comPoesiaUK contact: Genesis Wines, 020 7 963 9060www.bodegapoesia.comPernod Ricard ArgentinaUK contact: Pernod Ricard UK, 020 8538 4484,www.pernod-ricard .com.arProemioa gallardo@proemiowines.comwww.proemiowines.comPulenta EstateUK contact: Berry Bros & Rudd, 0870 900 4300www.pulenta estate.comReytercomercial@bodegareyter.com.ar,www.bodegareyter.com.arRJ ViñedosUK contact: Great Western Wine , 01225 3228 00,www.rjvi nedos.comRPBjcaminos@baggio.com.arwww.baggio.com.arBodega Ruca MalénUK contact: Corney & Barrow, 020 7265 2 500,www.bodegarucamalen.comBodegas SalenteinUK contact: D&D Wines , 01565 650952,www.bodegasalentein .comBodegas San HubertoUK contact: Wine Importers Edinburgh,0131 556 3601www.bodegassanhuberto.com.arSan Polormasera@sanpolo.com.arwww.sanpolo.com.arSanta Anaavivias@bodegas-santa-ana-com.arwww.bodeags-santa-ana-com.arSantiago Graffigna– Pernod RicardUK contact: Pernod Ricard UK,020 8538 4484,www.pernod-ricard.com.arTamaridmaranesi@tamari.com.arwww.tamari.com.arTapizhborn@tapiz.com.arwww.tapiz.com.arTeltecaUK contact: Hallgarten, 01582 722538,www.teltecawinery.comTittarelliUK contact: Liberty Wines, 020 7720 5350,www.vinostittarelli .com.arTrapicheUK contact: HBJ, 01473 232322,www.trapiche.com.arTriventolbastias@trivento.comwww.trivento.comValent ín Bianchiakemeny@vbianchi.com,www.vbianchi.comValle de la PuertaUK contact: Patriarche, 020 7381 4016,www.valledelapuerta.comValle Perdidofmdt@mdtmdt.comViña ObvioUK contact: Arlington Beverage Group,020 8395 1552,www.vinaobvio.comViñas del Adagioguti@adagiowines.com.arwww.adagiowines.com.arViniterraexport@viniterra.com.arwww.viniterra.com.arVistalbaUK contact: Great Western Wine ,01225 3228 00,www.carlospulentawines.comVistandessales@vistandes.comwww.vistandes.comWalter Bressiawbressia@ciudad.com.ar&AUGUST 2007 l WINE SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 39

MAP OF ARGENTINA WINE REGIONS&40 l ARGENTINA l WINE SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007Map supplied by Wines of Argentina

ADVERTORIALDoña Paula+54 261 498 4410Carlos TradExport Directorctrad@donapaula.com.arDoña PaulaThe story so farDoña Paula was founded in 1997 by the ClaroGroup from Chile — owner of Santa Rita,Carmen and Sur Andino wineries in thatcountry — to produce premium New Worldwines and create a new concept in wineproduction in Argentina.The first years were not easy: hail storms in2000 and 2001 pushed the company to investheavily in anti-hail netting and to delay thelaunch of the wines in the markets until 2002.Since then the wines have been constantlyacclaimed and recognised as being in thepremier league of Argentinian wine production.Winemakers Stefano Gandolini and DavidBonomi like to play with varieties andwinemaking styles. Meanwhile, Edgardo DelPópolo, head viticulturist, provides fruit fromfour different estates in Mendoza, all withdifferent altitudes, soil profiles and cli maticconditions. The result is a fusion of complexity,freshness and innovation.Doña Paula has reached 12th positionamong exporters. Our range shows why.Our winesDoña Paula’s principalvineyard is located inUgarteche (720 ha), thehíghest area of Luján deCuyo in Mendoza, and threeother estates in coolerareas of the Uco Valleyprovide the “salt andpepper ” to create diversityand innovation: TupungatoEstate (53 ha), El CepilloEstate (120 ha) and AltamiraEstate ( 80ha).The Los Cardos range isall fruity intensity andrefreshing zing — Malbec,Syrah and Sauvignon Blanccan be found in Oddbins stores across the UK.Doña Paula Estate, the next step up,consists of wines produced from older vinesand matured in old French and American oakfor six to 12 months.The next range, new for 2007, is namedDoña Paula Series and is theresult of Stefano’s, David’s andEdgardo’s trips to wine regionsof the world – the idea is tocreate innovative blends or playwith non-traditional varieties.The first wines to be releasedin the UK are a Tannat /Malbec,Shiraz /Viognier and CabernetFranc, the latter coming fromthe cooler area of the UcoValley.Finally,the range is completewith the single vineyard Malbec,Doña Paula Selección deBodega. Vines planted between1969 and 1971 offer balance,complexity and elegance for the signaturewine of Doña Paula.The 2005 vintage of this wine has beenrecently awarded a Gold medal at the firstArgentinian Wine Awards by wine judges fromthe UK and Argentina.&AUGUST 2007 l WINE SPIRIT l ARGENTINA l 41

BIGGER PICTUREMendoza City, ArgentinaImage: Ariel MennetiPasaje Lemos is your average, typically residential, central Mendoza street. Or is it? This roadharbours a special landmark – a mystery house of wine. Set back just 5m from the pavement, thefront room of this deserted home is crammed full of bottles by Pascual Toso. A smashed windowallows passers-by to investigate further, although visibility is limited – it’s almost impossible to seefurther into the house for the cages and cages of wine, stacked floor to ceiling and wall to wall. Newsof the discovery was revealed to Wine & Spirit during a recent visit to the country. Surprisingly, therewas no attempt to hide or disguise the find – in fact, not one bottle had been touched at the time.Who owns this cache? Why has the wine remained untouched? To unravel the mystery, why notinvestigate for yourself with a visit, after all, Argentina’s wine capital offers plenty of surprises.&42 l ARGENTINA l WINE SPIRIT l AUGUST 2007

ARGENTINA& WINESPIRIT