Number in series 26; Year of publication 1932 - Fell and Rock ...

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2O 5EDITOR'S NOTESAccidents.There have been three bad accidents on Lakeland crags thislast year. I have tried to collect first-hand information aboutthem, since it seems of the first importance that reports ofaccidents in a mountaineering journal which, therefore, naturallycarry authority should be accurate as to what happened andtechnically reliable as to why it happened.The first of these accidents occurred in the spring on DowCrag. Details have been given me by J. C. Appleyard, who ledthe rescue party.The climbers were Mr. J. S. Brogden, leader, Mr. H. W.Tilman and Miss V. Brown. They were climbing Jones'sRoute, Easter Gully, and Brogden was on the grass ledge at thefinish of the climb. He cannot have been belayed as the ropewas not broken and the only belay is a large bollard of rock.Tilman was at the bottom of the final scoop on a bad belay andMiss Brown was traversing from the bandstand into Hopkinson'scrack. From what she told him, Appleyard is fairly sure thatshe had an attack of nerves and simply fell off backwards. Shewas quite inexperienced. Tilman had climbed in the Alps,Wales and Central Africa, Brogden had done a good deal ofclimbing including, apparently, the Atlas. He was said to relyovermuch on his strength.When Miss Brown came off, she pulled Tilman's belay offand he followed. They hung for a few seconds whilst Brogdenwas being dragged from his stance and then fell to the screeabove the pitch of Easter Gully. The leader was killed andthe second and third seriously injured. Tilman managed toclimb down to the cave, but he found no one there, so he climbedback to Miss Brown again to say he was going to Coniston forhelp. Partly walking and partly crawling, he succeeded inreaching Coniston—a deed of wonderful endurance and heroism.Appleyard was called up from Torver and fortunately Dr.Lapage happened to be with him when the message came. Therescuers had considerable difficulty in getting up in the duskto where Miss Brown lay; and but for the fine work of
206 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB JOURNALAppleyard would probably have failed. Appleyard led up andgot three quarrymen up after him. They then tied the roperound Miss Brown under her armpits and across her chest,helped her to the edge of the pitch and lowered her straightdown to Lapage, who was waiting to receive her. She was semiconsciousand able to follow instructions to hold her arms closeto her sides to prevent herself slipping through the rope. Thedead man was let down in the same way and the rope kept onboth of them until the bottom of the gully was reached. Thedescent had to be made in complete darkness.The conclusion to be drawn from this accident in the opinionof those on the spot was that Jones's route should never havebeen attempted by that party on a cold, wet and windy day—in fact, the girl, a complete novice, should never have been onthat climb at all. It is also probable that the accident would nothave been fatal had the leader been belayed himself or hadTilman's belay been an efficient one.At the Borrowdale Meet, the Committee passed a Minuterecording the Club's appreciation of the services rendered byAppleyard and Lapage. The former, who was quite out oftraining, had to tackle the climbing practically in darkness andhis effort on this occasion must make one of the finest bits ofrescue work on record.The Dow Crag accident drew the Club's attention once moreto the question of stretchers. The one from Coniston wasfound to be of little or no use in conveying the injured womandown the scree from the foot of the rock. One of the severaldifficulties that become awkwardly obvious on steep and difficultground is that the bearers are unable to see where they areputting their feet and are therefore liable to trip and so jar theinjured person perhaps very seriously. The problem of designinga stretcher suitable for all occasions seems to be insoluble.Dr. Hadfield obtained details of a wonderfully efficient stretcherin use in the United States Navy. This was in the form of aduraluminium cradle. Even had these stretchers been obtainablehere, which is more than doubtful, their cost would have beenprobably prohibitive. A Sub-Committee, composed of WilsonHey, Lapage, Harlow and Pollitt, has been appointed to considerthe whole matter afresh.The second accident occurred in October on Gimmer. I
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CHARLES F. HADFIELD. President 1931
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A RIDE IN ICELAND 125as a couple of
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A RIDE IN ICELAND 127are quite obsc
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A RIDE IN ICELAND 129whilst the mou
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CARROCK FELLBY MABEL BARKERIn the e
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CARROCK FELL 133alone and under bad
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Photo InE. Wood-JohnsonSRON NA CICH
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136 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB
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142TWO NEW CLIMBSBY A. T. HARGREAVE
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BOWFELL BUTTRESS—SINISTER SLABS.7
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144THE DIAMOND MOUNTAINSBY DOROTHY
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154THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB
Page 41 and 42: 156 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB
Page 45 and 46: i6oSOME PYRENEAN WORDSBY W. P. HASK
Page 47: 162 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB
Page 52 and 53: SOME PYRENEAN WORDS 165by name of t
Page 54 and 55: Two SUMMERS IN THE PYRENEES 167The
Page 56 and 57: Two SUMMERS IN THE PYRENEES 169lake
Page 58 and 59: Two SUMMERS IN THE PYRENEES 171give
Page 60 and 61: Two SUMMERS IN THE PYRENEES 173Note
Page 62 and 63: ALL DOWN THE VALLEYS 175Within the
Page 64 and 65: ALL DOWN THE VALLEYS 177graceful wh
Page 66 and 67: )„,,„ i, v M. FilzGibbonARETE O
Page 70: 182SIXTY YEARS AGOBY G. GRAHAM MACP
Page 74 and 75: SIXTY YEARS AGO 185When wind and ra
Page 76: 188 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB
Page 83: 194W. G. COLLINGWOODA MEMOIRBY R. B
Page 94 and 95: EDITOR'S NOTES 207have been furnish
Page 96 and 97: EDITOR'S NOTES 209sustained severe
Page 98 and 99: EDITOR'S NOTES 211" I am retaining
Page 100 and 101: EDITOR'S NOTES 213lines, it has a m
Page 102 and 103: 215CLIMBS OLD AND NEWBY A. T. HARGR
Page 104 and 105: CLIMBS OLD AND NEW 217into the shal
Page 106 and 107: 219THE LONDON SECTIONWe are present
Page 108: LONDON SECTION 221This year, 1933,
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Number in series 26; Year of publication 1932 - Fell and Rock ...

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