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Number in series 26; Year of publication 1932 - Fell and Rock ...

Number in series 26; Year of publication 1932 - Fell and Rock ...

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190 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB JOURNALuntil, goaded by hunger <strong>and</strong> cold, they trusted themselves tothe rocks <strong>and</strong> somehow made a safe descent.The Romsdalhorn was not climbed aga<strong>in</strong> until Carl Hall, theDane, made the ascent <strong>in</strong> 1881. Meanwhile, the dalesmen'sfeat had become almost legendary, <strong>and</strong> people see<strong>in</strong>g their stoneman from the valley had begun to believe that it was a naturalp<strong>in</strong>nacle on the top <strong>of</strong> the mounta<strong>in</strong>. Three years after Hall'sascent the Horn was climbed by the first woman, Mrs. CecilSl<strong>in</strong>gsby.You don't approach the Horn from the Romsdal valley, youhave to work along towards the head <strong>of</strong> the fjord <strong>and</strong> then goup the Voengedal; this enables you to attack it much moreconveniently from the back. And the Voengedal is a beautifuldale. On the left Voenget<strong>in</strong>d builds up to its knife edge ridge<strong>in</strong> a f<strong>in</strong>e sweep <strong>of</strong> buff rock. Ahead the Romsdalhorn fills thevalley end—from the shoulder to the top like a sturdy Doriccolumn with the capital cut <strong>of</strong>f. The correct modern route is t<strong>of</strong>ollow the Voengedal past a little lake <strong>and</strong> on to where it comes toits head abruptly at a tarn <strong>and</strong> a rocky wall, <strong>and</strong> then turn onto the mounta<strong>in</strong> <strong>and</strong> hunt up a sort <strong>of</strong> path by which youscramble rather tediously over very easy rocks until you come toa gully lead<strong>in</strong>g up to the cleft between the two peaks. Here, thereal climb<strong>in</strong>g—what there is <strong>of</strong> it—beg<strong>in</strong>s. You quickly workup the gully to the cleft <strong>and</strong> then you climb the right-h<strong>and</strong> peakover very satisfactory big, rough blocks. The summit is quiteflat <strong>and</strong> round, as if the tip which it ought to have had had beenneatly sliced <strong>of</strong>f. There are five immense stone men on it now.We, however, knew noth<strong>in</strong>g about the modern route, <strong>and</strong> wereattack<strong>in</strong>g the mounta<strong>in</strong> from Sl<strong>in</strong>gsby's rather sketchy directions.All we knew was that we had to make for a great yellowish p<strong>in</strong>kround scar on the mounta<strong>in</strong>, <strong>and</strong> that from somewhere near thisscar, the gully, which is the key to the climb, started. We climbedout <strong>of</strong> the valley, soon after pass<strong>in</strong>g the first lake, much soonerthan we ought to have done, on to the Lillefjeld, a narrowsaddle between the Voengedal <strong>and</strong> the Romsdal. The view fromthis saddle was superb. We looked straight across space at thesmooth, plung<strong>in</strong>g walls <strong>of</strong> the Troldt<strong>in</strong>der. We looked down tothe Romsdal far below, <strong>and</strong> from this height the meadowsglowed with a green so fiery that even Lakel<strong>and</strong> st<strong>and</strong>ards weresurpassed. We looked up at our mounta<strong>in</strong>, steepen<strong>in</strong>g now, <strong>and</strong>

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