Number in series 26; Year of publication 1932 - Fell and Rock ...

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SOME NEW CLIMBS IN SKYE 137that the route would go under good conditions, but the leader'smorale was insufficient in the prevailing dampness.Rain continuing, the next day was spent in camp with EdgarWallace and a bannock.Monday was again a perfect day, so we decided to have anotherlook at the N. Buttress of Sgumain. Close inspection did notprove encouraging to two of the party, but the Skye enthusiastrefused to be overawed and dragged his unwilling companionsafter him. During this climb, as on others, the leader refused tobe hurried, and his knowledge of the rock structure of theCoolins must be profound.The wind on the summit proved chilly, especially for themember in shorts, so a rapid descent of the scree was made.When the first two were well down the scree several largeblocks were observed to be rapidly descending upon them.Avoiding these with difficulty the startled climbers watchedthem disappear down a gully through which they were about topass. The fall proved to be due to the collapse of a dyke beneaththe last climber and illustrates the extremely loose character ofthe rock hereabouts.The next day, Tuesday, being our last, was devoted to givingthe Skye novice a chance on the standard climbs. The Ciochdirect and the Crack of Doom were climbed, but further effortswere abandoned in favour of a farewell dinner at the Post Office,where a friendly soul provided beer—the first for nearly a week.It is very difficult to estimate the quality of new climbsparticularly on Coolin rock, since first thoughts are usuallyfound to err on the side of severity, but having done most ofthe standard ascents in the Glen Brittle area we think thatboth the Sron na Ciche climbs are harder than any, while onesection of the climb in Coir' a Ghrunnda is certainly severe.The route on Sgumain is probably no harder than the Ciochdirect, but the difficulties of route-finding, etc., made the ascentfor the leader distinctly more severe.It should be stated that the ascents to be described have, sofar as we can ascertain, never been made before, and no tracesof previous passage were found. We, therefore, consider ourselvesjustified in recounting them as new, but are aware that itis quite possible that they have been done before, but have notbeen recorded.
138 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB JOURNALWEST BUTTRESS, SRON NA CICHE.In the line diagram of Sron na Ciche in the S.M.C. Guidethere are two areas untouched by lines. The climb here describedis in that area which is bounded by the Western Gully and theWest Central Gully.The route commences at the foot of a steep slab about50 ft. to the right of the foot of W.C. Gully and just to the rightof two small overhangs.The slab is climbed until lack of holds forces the climber toits left edge, a stance and belay being reached a little higher(90 ft.). This section can be made very difficult if the slab isadhered to as long as possible.From the platform the route lies slightly to the right; fairlyeasy climbing leads in 140 feet to a large grass platform, situatedabove, and midway between, two conspicuous grass patches.From this point it should be possible to continue directlyupwards, but since we wished to make the climb finish at thehighest point of the Buttress we were forced to the left. Ashort upward traverse in this direction leads to a big ledge atthe foot of a steep wall. This is best climbed on the left andleads, after 50 feet of difficult climbing, on sloping holds, to awide dyke, which, at this point, traverses almost horizontallyacross the face. Above the dyke is another slab. The dyke iscrossed, and a traverse made across the slab to the left and overa low wall, a belay being found on a sloping ledge low down.The position is very exposed, lying as it does on an overhangoverlooking the foot of W.C. Gully. The rocks above appearrotten, and on the first ascent the outlook was not too cheerful,but a short, steep crack can be climbed without difficulty, theholds being actually quite reliable.The ascent of the crack and a few feet of easy rocks leads to thefoot of a very steep wall, easily identified from below by itslight colour.This wall was first attempted direct until the disappearanceof all holds led to a rapid descent. The route taken lies on asteeply sloping gangway, which appears to lead to a good stanceon the left edge of the wall. It is very difficult to effect a lodgementon the gangway, and its ascent is very difficult. At twopoints it is necessary to use small holds on the wall below toget round bulges, and it is very difficult to get back to the gangway.
Page 1 and 2: CHARLES F. HADFIELD. President 1931
Page 5 and 6: A RIDE IN ICELAND 125as a couple of
Page 7 and 8: A RIDE IN ICELAND 127are quite obsc
Page 9 and 10: A RIDE IN ICELAND 129whilst the mou
Page 11 and 12: CARROCK FELLBY MABEL BARKERIn the e
Page 13 and 14: CARROCK FELL 133alone and under bad
Page 15 and 16: Photo InE. Wood-JohnsonSRON NA CICH
Page 17: 136 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB
Page 22 and 23: 140 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB
Page 24 and 25: 142TWO NEW CLIMBSBY A. T. HARGREAVE
Page 26 and 27: BOWFELL BUTTRESS—SINISTER SLABS.7
Page 28 and 29: 144THE DIAMOND MOUNTAINSBY DOROTHY
Page 39 and 40: 154THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB
Page 45 and 46: i6oSOME PYRENEAN WORDSBY W. P. HASK
Page 52 and 53: SOME PYRENEAN WORDS 165by name of t
Page 54 and 55: Two SUMMERS IN THE PYRENEES 167The
Page 56 and 57: Two SUMMERS IN THE PYRENEES 169lake
Page 58 and 59: Two SUMMERS IN THE PYRENEES 171give
Page 60 and 61: Two SUMMERS IN THE PYRENEES 173Note
Page 62 and 63: ALL DOWN THE VALLEYS 175Within the
Page 64 and 65: ALL DOWN THE VALLEYS 177graceful wh
Page 66 and 67: )„,,„ i, v M. FilzGibbonARETE O
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180 THE FELL AND ROCK CLIMBING CLUB
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182SIXTY YEARS AGOBY G. GRAHAM MACP
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SIXTY YEARS AGO 185When wind and ra
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194W. G. COLLINGWOODA MEMOIRBY R. B
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2O 5EDITOR'S NOTESAccidents.There h
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EDITOR'S NOTES 207have been furnish
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EDITOR'S NOTES 209sustained severe
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EDITOR'S NOTES 211" I am retaining
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EDITOR'S NOTES 213lines, it has a m
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215CLIMBS OLD AND NEWBY A. T. HARGR
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CLIMBS OLD AND NEW 217into the shal
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219THE LONDON SECTIONWe are present
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LONDON SECTION 221This year, 1933,
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Number in series 26; Year of publication 1932 - Fell and Rock ...

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