PEMBA AND THE REGION NORTH TO THE RIO ... - MozGuide

ambushes and the presence of landmines on the roads everyone had to fly if needing to go
anywhere. Luckily most of the pilots were South Africans like me and so I could pose as ‘co
pilot’ and got to fly all over northern Mozambique and stay at government guesthouses for
free. This was how I first saw places such the Quirimba and Ibo islands, Montepuez, Mueda,
Mocímboa da Praia, Nampula, Nacala and Lichinga.
Tourists may not have been plentiful in Pemba fifteen years ago, but quirky characters
certainly were. There was ‘Senhor Okkie’, a huge South African (with his even larger wife)
who took a daily strut down Wimbe beach wearing a Lycra Thong. Okkie had his own
‘projecto’ on one of the islands up north but seemed to have run out of money long ago and
so passed the days loudly fending off the various government officials who were trying to get
money out of him. I think Okkie had traumatized the local policeman to such a degree that he
(the policeman) requested a transfer to Lichinga which was then one of the most desolate
places on Earth. There was Mussa, a lad of about 10 years who became my self-appointed
guardian, looking after my tent when I was away in town on my bicycle and warning me
whenever ‘oleo di Cobra’ or ‘Snake Eyes’ the immigration man was on his way to, yet again,
try and look at my passport. I knew that this could prove to be VERY expensive as I had
already over-stayed my visa by two months and it was Mussa who woke me up before dawn
on yet another perfect African morning to tell me that if I didn’t leave that day, I would surely
be arrested.
I have visited Pemba on a handful of occasions since those wondrous times, but for not more
than a few days on each occasion, the most recent of which was for just 11 hours in July
2006. Perhaps it is because I prefer to remember Pemba as it was in 1992 when I (almost)
had it all to myself, or because I go to Mozambique to get away from tourists and Pemba has
become the tourist ‘Mecca’ of Mozambique, but these days Pemba is way down on my list of
‘must sees’ in Mozambique. Sure Russell’s Place is something like ‘Apocalypse Now’ meets
‘Crocodile Dundee’, the Pemba Beach Resort is, well let’s just say, incongruous - and those
real trophy animal heads in the Pemba Bar are a real ‘retro’ touch. Wimbe Beach is about as
‘deserted’ as a Moroccan Souk, the Complexo Nautilus Casino is about as appropriate as a
delicatessen in Darfur, and the beach ‘pads’ are bigger than in Beverly Hills, but the bairros of
Paquite-Quete (pakitty –ket, the original settlement at Pemba), Ingonane and Natite, Jardim
Nacole and Kaskazini do at least have some redeeming qualities. Note too that there are
several of Mozambique’s best beaches and islands just an hour or five out of town by car or
minutes in a light aircraft away.
Ah yes, you will either love or hate Pemba, but so it goes concerning many of this word’s
most worthwhile offerings.
All About Pemba Town. (Vila de Pemba).
Note that, in addition to all of the other public holidays (dias ferias) that Mozambique has,
Pemba’s very own public holiday (dia do Cidade) is 18 October and all banks and many
shops and businesses are closed on this day. Wimbe beach is packed most weekends and
on all public holidays.
Getting to Pemba.
Note that, other than by using the pontoon near its mouth, even during very low water it
is not possible to cross the Rio Rovuma with any vehicle anywhere along its entire length
where it forms the border between Tanzania and Mozambique. There is presently a bridge
under construction by Chinese contractors between Negomano (accessed via Mueda) in
Mozambique and Mtambaswala (accessed via Masasi and Masuguru) on the Tanzanian side.
This route makes the trip about 350km longer from Mtwara to Mocímboa da Praia than the
direct south ferry option and so I think that the ferry will remain in use even once the ‘Unity
Bridge’ is completed. During July of 2006 I drove to Negomano and the road is being
extensively upgraded and should be passable with a 4x4 even in the rainy season. Presently
there is no Tanzania via Lichinga, Cobúè and Lupilichi or to Mozambique from Tanzania via
Songea, Muhukuru and Mitomoni.
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