PEMBA AND THE REGION NORTH TO THE RIO ... - MozGuide

Nayuchi the track becomes increasingly difficult making a 4x4 a very comforting vehicle to be
in. Nayuchi/Entre Lagos border is open 0800 – 1700 and from there to Mocuba is fairly good
gravel.
Via Chiponde / Mandimba: Open 0600 – 1730. The road from Mangoche to Namwera and
Chiponde is now excellent tarmac but from Mandimba to Cuamba and from Cuamba to
Nampula the way is still gravel which seasonally can become very hard going although a 4x4
is not a necessity during the dry season but a vehicle with high ground clearance is highly
recommended.
Via Likoma / Cobúè:
Likoma and Chizumulu.
Note that there is mobile or cell phone (GSM 900) communication on Likoma and reception
from Likoma at Cobúè (from Likoma) but there is no bank or bureau de change anywhere on
the Likoma Islands or in Cobúè (nearest is in Lichinga). Mungo Drift and Kaya Mawa do
accept Travellers’’ Cheques but they charge some 200 MKW commission per cheque. In
Mbamba Village ask about an Indian shopkeeper who will sometimes change money at a
reasonable rate. Accommodation options on the Likoma Islands go from top dollar to scum
budget so for the richer (US$150 per night) I recommend Kaya Mawa (maybe tomorrow):
www.kayamawa.com and for those on a slimmer budget the Rest House in Mbama is clean
with a friendly management or do the backpacker number and get to Mungo Drift ($4 per
person) a 45 minute walk or ask about the ‘Rasta Boat’. On Chizumulu Island, 10km from
Likoma there is Kubira Lodge which is laid back and does great food. Reservations can be
made by the Chizumulu post office Tel. + (265) 357268.
Cobúè.
In town there is a basic ‘Pensão’ and a beach ‘restaurant’ owned by one James Bondo (he
will look after your vehicle for MtN50 per day if you want to park and take a boat) but I would
perhaps spend a night in Cobúè and then go to either up market and unique Nkwichi Lodge
www.mandawilderness.org or to a wonderful ‘backpackers’ at Mbueca village called Mchenga
Wede – means ‘nice sand’ (contact Douglas via Nkwichi). Both are about 15km south of
Cobúè – a 3 hour walk or wait for dhow. As there is about a car a week from Cobúè to
Lichinga, better to get a dhow down to Metangula from where there is daily (well maybe)
transport to Lichinga. Plenty of transport opportunities Lichinga to Cuamba from where you
can take the train to Nampula.
Pemba by road from the West
(Lichinga – Marrupa – Balama - Montepuez – Pemba).
Note that, apart from (perhaps – very unreliable) that sold by the yellow 20 litre cooking oil
drum from barracas in Marrupa, there is no reliable vendor of fuel between Lichinga and
Montepuez. Oh and the road from Mandimba (Malawi border) is still fairly good gravel –
average speed 60kph. Lichinga – Marrupa has just been upgraded to tarmac and will take
2½ hours easy driving. From Marrupa the first 30km or so is under road works with
deviations – 40kph average. Then to Balama the track is sometimes almost overgrown –
20kph average. Note that due to the lack of a bridge over the Balama River, this is as far as
you will get from December to May as it is a long muddy crossing in the dry season and
completely flooded in the wet. Anticipate at least 7 or 8 hours Marrupa to Montepuez. Balama
to Montepuez is good gravel/sand/mud, average speeds of 70kph, and then good tarmac all
the way from Montepuez to Pemba.
By road between Nacala and Pemba.
Fuel is available 24hrs at Nacala, Namialo and Pemba but you may have to wake the
attendant or even send a kid to find him. The coast is quite spectacular but singularly difficult
to access as the Nacala – Memba coastal track has not been reopened. The stunning mouth
of the Lúrio River is accessible from the north and the ‘Quedas do Lúrio’ or Lúrio Falls, 30km
off the main road, are really well worth a visit. No formal tourist facilities in this area but you
can ask permission from the ‘Chefe’ of a village to camp next to the school or church. A
gratuity of MTN100 would be appropriated – pay the headman or ‘chefe’ (it will be a man).
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