Junij, julij 2011 - Adria Airways

{ Pismo }Spoštovane potnice in potniki!Veseli naju, da vam lahko v imenu vseh zaposlenih vAdrii Airways zaželiva dobrodošlico in prijetno počutjena našem letalu. Naša pozornost je usmerjena k vam,dragi potniki. Želimo vam ponuditi kar najboljšestoritve v smislu varnosti in kakovosti potovanja.V prvih štirih mesecih letošnjega leta je z nami potovalo 307.000potnikov. Primerjave z letom 2009 (leto 2010 zaradi zaprtja letališčaJožeta Pučnika Brnik in izbruha vulkanskega pepela na Islandiji niprimerljivo) kažejo, da smo imeli letos za 5 odstotkov več potnikov,ob tem pa 4 odstotke manj letov. To pomeni, da smo se znali naprimeren način prilagoditi potrebam trga in smo faktor zasedenostiletal povišali za 6 odstotkov.Adrijino floto smo v aprilupovečali še za eno letalo, in sicerA-320. To 180-sedežno letalosmo vzeli v operativni najem inga vpisali v slovenski registerzrakoplovov pod nazivom S5-AAS. V naših barvah bo letelonaslednjih 42 mesecev. S tem smonašo floto povečali na 13 letal, vkratkem pa pričakujemo še enoletalo istega tipa. Tako bomopolno pripravljeni pričakali višeksezone.Vsem, ki se še niste odločili,kako na dopust, ponujavapraktično rešitev. Z letali Adrie Airways boste varno, hitro in udobnoprispeli do številnih evropskih letališč in mnogih turističnihdestinacij v Sredozemlju. Izognili se boste kolonam na cestah,uživali v klimatiziranem prostoru in tako prihranili moči za poletneaktivnosti in odkrivanje lepot izbranega kraja. Za to poletje smovam pripravili vrsto ugodnih ponudb za različna potovanja. Poleg žeustaljenih rednih linij na 28 destinacij dopolnjujemo našo ponudbos čarterskimi poleti, ki jih pripravljamo v sodelovanju s številnimiturističnimi agencijami. Izbirate lahko med priljubljenimipočitniškimi kraji na grških otokih ter v Španiji, Italiji, Egiptu inTurčiji. Več informacij o tem lahko dobite na naši spletni strani www.adria.si.Hvala vam za zaupanje in prijazen pozdrav.Dear Passengers,On behalf of everyone at Adria Airways, we are delightedto be able to wish you a very warm welcome and apleasant flight aboard this aircraft. Our attention isfocused on you, the passenger. We want to offer you thevery best services in terms of safe and high-quality travel.IIn the first four months of this year a total of 307,000 passengers flewwith us. A comparison with 2009 – owing to the closure of Ljubljana’sJože Pučnik Airport and the spread of volcanic ash from Iceland, 2010is not comparable – shows that in 2011 we have carried 5 percent morepassengers, while operating 4 percent fewer flights. This means thatwe have managed to make appropriate adjustments to the needs of themarket, and increased our aircraftoccupancy rate by 6 percent.foto: Branko Čeak in Domen PalIn April this year the Adria fleetgained one more aircraft. The A-320aircraft, which we took under anoperating lease and entered in theSlovenian aircraft register with thecode S5-AAS, has 180 seats. It willfly in the Adria livery for the next42 months. This marks the expansionof our fleet to 13 aircraft, andsoon we anticipate the acquisitionof one more aircraft of the sametype. In this way we will be fullyprepared for the high season.For all those of you that have notyet decided how you’re going to spend your holidays, we can offer apractical solution. An Adria Airways flight can take you safely, quicklyand comfortably to a large number of European airports and plenty ofresort destinations along the Mediterranean. You can avoid long linesof traffic, relax in the air conditioned space and save your energy forsummertime activities and discovering the beauty of your chosen spot.For this summer we have put together a range of attractive offers for avariety of trips. In addition to the established scheduled services to 28destinations, we also offer charter flights designed in cooperation witha number of travel agents. You have a choice of favourite holiday spotson the Greek islands, in Spain, Italy, Egypt and Turkey. For more informationon this, visit our website www.adria.si.Thank you for the confidence you have shown in us today. With our bestwishes,( 3 )Robert Vuga,izvršni direktorKlemen Boštjančič,glavni izvršni direktorKlemen Boštjančič,CEORobert Vuga,Executive Director

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Aktualne ponudbe/Latest OffersV vsaki številki revije vas bomo seznanjali z najnovejšimi ugodnimi ponudbami, ki jih za vaspripravljamo skozi vse leto. / We will keep you up to date with our latest special offers in each issueof the magazine. Special offers are available throughout the year.Ujemi ugoden polet!Na vseh Adrijinih rednih linijah imamo ugodne ponudbe po načelu »Kupiprej, potuj ceneje«. Da bi našo ponudbo še bolj približali vašim potrebam,imamo na voljo znižane ponudbe tudi za potovanje med tednom.Adria Airways Special Offers!Special offers are available on all of Adria’s scheduled services on a“buy early, fly for less” basis. To make our services even more attractive,reduced fares are available for travel during the week.Delujem ekonomično,potujem poslovno!Za nakup letalske vozovnice vsaj sedem dni pred začetkom vašega potovanjavam za ceno potovanja v ekonomskem razredu nudimo polet vposlovnem. Ponudba velja za nakup vozovnice v ekonomskem razredupo najvišji ceni. Edina omejitev je nakup vozovnice najmanj sedem dnipred odhodom; spremembe rezervacij so brezplačne.Varčujem, a ne na račun kakovosti!Več o ponudbi preberite na www.adria.si ali pa pokličite tel. št. 080 13 00.Work economically,travel in business!When you buy a ticket at least seven days in advance, you can travel inbusiness class for the price of an economy-class fare. This offer applies toeconomy-class tickets purchased at the highest rate. The only restriction isthat you must purchase your ticket at least seven days before you travel.Changes to the reservation can be made free of charge.Savings, no change in quality!For more information visit www.adria.si or call us on 080 13 00.( 7 )Adrijine E-noviceVabimo vas, da obiščete naše spletne strani www.adria.si in se prijavitena Adrijine E-novice. S tem boste enkrat mesečno obveščeni o našihnovostih in posebnih ponudbah. E-novice bodo za vas vir dragocenihinformacij in idej pri načrtovanju potovanja ali počitnic.Naj bo obveščenost vaša prednost!Adria E-newsWhy not visit our website www.adria.si and subscribe to Adria’s E-newsservice? Once a month you will receive updates on new services and specialoffers – straight to your inbox! This means that E-news will be a valuablesource of information and ideas when you are planning a journey or holiday.Let information be to your advantage!Pridružite se nam na FacebookuJoin us on Facebookwww.facebook.com/AdriaAirwaysSledite nam na TwitterjuFollow us on Twitterhttp://twitter.com/adria_airwaysBARCELONA–LJUBLJANALJUBLJANA–ATENELJUBLJANA–SPLITFRANKFURT–VIENNA© Corbis/IPAK ImagesODFROMEUR 195ODFROMEUR 218ODFROMEUR 94ODFROMEUR 239Zgoraj navedene cene so najnižje veljavne cene na Adrijinih poletih, vključujejo pa povratni prevoz in vse ostale dajatve, razen stroška rezervacije. Število ponujenih sedežev po tej ceni je omejeno.The prices given above are the lowest valid prices for Adria flights, and include return flight and all other taxes and fees, except for booking fees. There are limited seats available at this price.

Kako so vas sprejeli kolegi, ko ste prvič stopili v hangar?Nekateri zelo dobro in mi pri delu veliko pomagajo, so pa tudi takšni,ki žensk v tem delovnem okolju preprosto ne sprejemajo, in posledičnoje tudi delo z njimi veliko težje.Situacija je zanimiva, ste ženska v poklicu, ki je v domeni moških,obenem pa imate precej višjo izobrazbo kot kolegi v hangarju. Kaj je zanekatere bolj moteče, prvo ali drugo?Za tiste, ki so me dobro sprejeli, ni moteče ne eno in ne drugo, za ostalepa verjetno oboje, vendar se s takimi ljudmi preprosto ne ubadam,ampak grem svojo pot naprej. Z ljudmi, ki menijo, da je to okolje ’rezervirano’za moške, sem se se srečevala že med študijem. Kot je rekla Nobelovanagrajenka iz medicine, Rita Levi Montalcini, je skrivnost uspeha vtem, da nadaljuješ svoje delo kljub včasih neprijaznemu okolju. Preprosto,greš naprej.Ima zaradi izobrazbe vaše mnenje kdaj večjo težo od ostalih?So situacije, ko mi moje znanje omogoča boljše razumevanje problema,vendar je pri vzdrževanju letal zelo pomembno timsko delo in tudirešitev je ponavadi rezultat različnih mnenj, predvsem pa izkušenj.Greste s kolegi kdaj na pivo?Ne, ker »služba je služba, družba pa družba« … Kolikor je mogoče, strogoločujem zasebnost od službe.( 11 )Kaj vam pri delu predstavlja izziv?Hm, znanje. Že v času študija me je gnala naprej velika želja po pridobivanjuznanja in ta je še vedno prisotna pri delu. Dandanes gremo namrečpo avtocesti tehnološkega napredka in vedno se najde kaj novegain zanimivega, kar pritegne mojo pozornost in predstavlja neke vrsteizziv.Ste kdaj razmišljali o akademski karieri?Bomo videli, kaj bo prinesla prihodnost, zaenkrat vztrajam pri praksi.Poznate morda v tujini kakšno kolegico na podobnem delovnem mestu?Žal ne, bi bilo pa vsekakor zanimivo izmenjati kakšno mnenje o tempoklicu z žensko predstavnico.

{ Adria Airways }( 12 )Marja KunstAircraft technician forAdria Airways TehnikaText and photography: Domen PalShe greeted me in the aircraft hangar, in well-greasedoveralls, where together with the other aircraft technicians, ormechanics as we still like to talk of them, she was just openingup the entrails of an enormous Airbus. “It won’t take long, willit? I still have a lot of work to do; today is my last day here, since I’m goingto Germany for two months on a training course.” A young, sweetbut determined woman of few words. Slightly unusual. Why? Marja isthe only woman among the 125 aircraft technicians employed at thecompany Adria Airways Tehnika, which services passenger aircraft.Although she graduated from university, she opted for a job as an ordinary“technician” and in doing so took major strides into a playgroundthat is traditionally a male domain. The mechanic’s workshop, a shrineto testosterone, reserved for crude jokes about blondes and debates onsport and cars. But she is not scared of planes, and even less so of hermale colleagues. It is quite likely that the aircraft in which you are currentlysitting and reading these lines has been serviced by her. She doesnot want to talk about her future, but in conversation she gives the impressionthat she knows where she is headed. She is aiming high.What exactly do you do in the hangar?I do what all the guys do, we service aircraft, and this includes avariety of inspections, replacements and repairs of parts and variouscomponents on passenger planes. In other words everything involved inservicing aircraft. I’m qualified to work on Airbus and Canadair RegionalJet aircraft, plus some others.After graduating, given your education you could have found employmentelsewhere. How did you decide to do the job of an aircraft technician?I could say that I wanted to enhance the theoretical knowledge Igained on my university course, so consequently I started with the basics.In my opinion it’s important for every engineer to experience thepractical side of work.How were you received by your workmates when you first entered thehangar?Some received me very well and help me a lot at work, but there arealso some people who simply cannot accept women in this workingenvironment, so working with them is a lot harder.This is an interesting situation, you are a woman in an occupation thatis the domain of men, while at the same time you have a much highereducation than the others in the hangar. What bothers some of themmore, the former or latter?For the ones that received me well, neither thing bothers them, butfor the others, probably both, although I simply don’t get bogged downwith people like that, and I focus on my own path. I came across peoplewho think that this environment is a male preserve even when I was astudent. As the Nobel Prize winner for medicine, Rita Levi Montalcini,said, the secret of success lies in continuing your work despite an occasionallyunpleasant environment. You simply move forward.Does your education mean that your opinions ever carry more weightthan others?There are situations where my knowledge allows a better understandingof a problem, but in aircraft maintenance team work is veryimportant, and solutions are generally the result of various opinions,and above all of experience.Do you ever go for a beer with your workmates?No, work is work, and my social life is my own… as far as I can, I keepmy private life strictly separated from my work.Were you interested in technical details even as a child?Yes, you could say that. I gained my enthusiasm for aviation from mynow sadly departed grandfather, who was assigned to a unit of Britain’sRAF in Algeria during the Second World War, after the Italian capitulation.He worked there as a mechanic, helping to repair air force planes.In my childhood he often told me stories from that time, and they madesuch an impression on me that even when I was starting primary school,I knew that my career would involve aircraft. After secondary school Iwent on to study at the Faculty of Mechanical Engineering in Ljubljana,and I took the course Aviation – Aircraft Construction and Maintenance.Towards the end of my course, through a series of coincidences Iworked for a year via the student employment service as a mechanic ongeneral aviation aircraft, which in laymen’s terms means light aircraft.Then my path took me to Adria, where I applied for an advertised job asan aircraft technician, and I’ve been here nearly three years now.What do you find challenging at work?Hmm, knowledge. Even as a student I was driven by an enormousdesire to acquire knowledge, and that’s still present in my work. Nowadayswe’re on a superhighway of technological advancement, andsomething new and interesting always turns up to get my attentionand represent some kind of challenge.Have you ever thought about an academic career?We’ll see what the future brings, but for the moment I’m sticking topractical work.Do you happen to know any female colleague abroad in a similar job?Sadly no, but it would of course be interesting to exchange views onthis profession with a female employed in it. A

Otvoritev razstave»Adria 50, dovoljenje imate za vzlet«Vtorek, 19. aprila 2011, je bila v Muzeju novejše zgodovine svečano odprta razstava, ki je nastala v sodelovanjumuzeja in Adrie Airways. Na otvoritveni slovesnosti so goste pozdravili: direktorica muzeja dr. Kaja Širok, glavniizvršni direktor Adrie Klemen Boštjančič in minister za promet dr. Patrick Vlačič, ki je razstavo tudi odprl.Prireditve so se poleg številnih gostov s področja gospodarstva, kulturein predstavnikov letalskih institucij udeležili tudi Adrijci, ki so ssvojimi predmeti ali znanjem sodelovali pri pripravi razstave. Še pravposebej so vse prisotne razveselile s svojo navzočnostjo štiri od prvihstevardes Adrie, ki se smehljajo z nosilne fotografije razstave iz daljnegaleta 1963 avtorja Edija Šelhausa. Po ogledu razstave so gostje zaključilivečer ob pogostitvi. K prijetnemu vzdušju so pripomogle dobrote, ki sojih pripravile spretne roke mojstrov Cateringa Kaval, zahvala pa gre tudisponzorjema – Fructalu iz Ajdovščine in podjetju Radgonske gorice izGornje Radgone.Razstavo si je možno ogledati še do konca septembra 2011. S svojopostavitvijo je zanimiva za obiskovalce vseh starosti. Otroci se skupaj spedagoškima likoma Otom in Edo podajo na polet ter se v posebni sobipoigrajo in rešujejo uganke. Tisti malo starejši pa se lahko ob določenihdnevih pod vodstvom članov Kluba virtualnega letenja preizkusijo nasimulatorju letenja kot pravi piloti.Od leve proti desni: glavni izvršni direktor Adrie Airways Klemen Boštjančič, direktorica muzejadr. Kaja Širok, minister za promet dr. Patrick Vlačič in izvršni direktor Adrie Robert Vuga. / Left toright: Adria CEO Klemen Boštjančič, Director of the National Museum of Contemporary History DrKaja Širok, Minister of Transport Dr Patrick Vlačič, and Adria Executive Director Robert Vuga.Foto: S. Kovačič Foto: S. Kovačič( 13 )Muzej je odprt vsak dan od torka do nedelje med 10. in 18. uro, razen ob državnih praznikih – dela prostih dnevih.Več informacij najdete na spletni strani www.muzej-nz.si.

Foto: S. KovačičGlavni izvršni direktor Adrie Klemen Boštjančič predaja nagrado g. Daliborju Jovanoviću, lastnikunajstarejše najdene letalske vozovnice Adrie. / Adria CEO Klemen Boštjančič bestowing an awardon Dalibor Jovanović, owner of the oldest Adria ticket found.Opening of“Adria 50, you arecleared for take off”exhibitionFoto: S. KovačičAn exhibition commemorating 50 years of Adria Airwayshas opened at the Museum of Contemporary History. Thegrand opening of the exhibition, created in partnershipbetween the museum and Adria Airways, took place on19 April. Guests at the opening ceremony were greeted by the directorof the museum, Dr Kaja Širok, Adria’s CEO, Klemen Boštjančič, and theMinister of Transport, Dr Patrick Vlačič, who opened the exhibition.Along with numerous guests from the world of business and cultureand representatives of aviation institutions, the exhibition was alsoattended by Adria personnel, who offered items and their knowledgeto help prepare the exhibition. Attendees were especially pleased bythe presence of four of Adria’s first flight attendants smiling from theexhibition’s central photograph by Edi Šelhaus, dating from 1963. Theevent was completed by a delicious treat, thanks to the sponsors oDelicioustreats prepared by the skilled hands of Catering Kaval’s mastersof cuisine contributed to a pleasant atmosphere; thanks also go tothe sponsors – the Fructal company of Ajdovščina and the Radgonskegorice company of Gornja Radgona.The exhibition can be seen till the end of September 2011 and hasbeen designed to offer something to visitors of all ages. Kids can goflying with two helpful characters, Oto and Eda, and enjoy playing andsolving riddles in a special room, while their elders can put their skillsto the test on a flight simulator as real pilots under the guidance of themembers of the Virtual Flying Club on a number of specific days.( 15 )The museum is open each day Tuesday to Sunday,from 10 am to 6 pm, except public holidays.For more information visit www.muzej-nz.si

{ Umetnost & kultura }( 16 )Ljubljana, Galerija TR3, do 30. julijaMimmo PaladinoV galeriji TR3 so razstavljena dela iz umetnikovega dvajsetletnega obdobja ustvarjanja medletoma 1983 in 2003, ki razkrivajo njegovo široko paleto podob in ustvarjalnosti. Osrednje delorazstave, slika z naslovom Suonno (D’après Piero della Francesca) iz leta 1983, upodablja rimskegacesarja Konstantina v postelji v noči pred slavno bitko pri Milvijskem mostu (Ponte Milvio).V vseh razstavljenih delih je Paladinov glas jasno prisoten, predvsem njegovo spoštovanjedo etruščanske in zgodnje rimske kulture. Njegova ljubezen do kapric, metafor in bogatih barvkot tudi njegova naklonjenost do popolnega prednjega narisa, ki ga je iz preteklosti prenesel vsodobnost, ohranjata globoke zgodovinske povezave. Paladino je namreč odraščal v južni Italiji,njegova povezanost s preteklostjo je močna in ustvarja občutek hrepenenja in želje po vidikihčloveškega življenja, ki se je že zdavnaj končalo, vendar v določenih subtilnih trenutkih še vednovztraja. In prav zaradi tega občutka brezčasnosti so Paladinova dela tako močna in aktualna.Ljubljana, TR3 Gallery, until 30 JulyMimmo PaladinoThe TR3 Gallery is hosting an exhibition of the artist Mimmo Paladino's works created over 20years (1983 to 2003) and revealing a broad range of images and creativity. The central work of theexhibition, the painting Suonno (D’après Piero della Francesca) from 1983, depicts the Roman emperorConstantine in bed on the eve of the famous battle at the Milvio Bridge (Ponte Milvio).There is a clear presence of Paladino’s voice in all of the displayed paintings, especially his respectfor Etruscan and early Roman culture. His love for caprices, metaphors and rich colours, aswell as his fondness for a perfect front upright projection transferred from the past to the presentmaintain deep historical links. Paladino’s growing up in southern Italy made his link with the paststrong, creating a sense of longing and desire for those aspects of human life that ended long ago,yet still persist in certain subtle moments. And it is that very sense of timelessness that makesPaladino’s work so powerful and topical.Jaka Jeraše, PiranPiran, palača Trevisini, od 11. junija do 9. oktobraSijajni popV začetku junija odpira Piran v palači Trevisini nov prestižni razstavniprostor. Agencija Maona v sodelovanju z Adriatic Slovenicoin Občino Piran začenja poletje z veliko razstavo POP ARTA. Vsakostoletje ima svojega posebneža. Dvajseto stoletje je navrglo tudiAndyja Warhola. Kot stvarnik POPularnosti je sleherniku dodelilsvojih petnajst minut slave. In prodal platno svojih »Osem Elvisov«za vrtoglavih 100 milijonov dolarjev. Umetnine Andya Warhola,Toma Wesselmanna, Roya Lichtensteina, grafike JohnaChamberlaina in kolaži Roberta Rauschenberga bodo zasijali narazstavi Sijajni pop. Vroče piransko poletje bodo po zgledu Warholovetovarne – Factory – v sklopu razstave dodatno popestrile tudištevilne delavnice.Organizatorji pripravljajo likovne delavnice na temo pop arta,šolo grafitov, ustvarjalne delavnice za otroke. V sklopu razstavebodo predvajali filme, posnete v newyorški tovarni, in povezaliglasbenike, ki bodo izvajali glasbo tistega časa – Velvet UndergroundTribute Band, glasbo Lou Reeda, Niko …Mimmo Paladino, Suonno (D’après Piero della Francesca), 1983Piran, Trevisini Palace, from 11 June to 9 OctoberShiny PopIn early June, Piran will open a new prestigious exhibition venue atthe Trevisini Palace. In collaboration with Adriatic Slovenica and theMunicipality of Piran, the Maona agency will spice up the summerwith a major pop art exhibition. Every century has its special characters,and the 20 th century gave rise to Andy Warhol. As the creatorof POPularity, Warhol provided each person with his/her 15 minutesof glory and his "Eight Elvises" canvas was later sold for a staggering100 million dollars. Works by Andy Warhol, Tom Wesselmann,Roy Lichtenstein, John Chamberlain’s graphic works and RobertRauschenberg’s collages will hold centre stage at the Shiny Pop exhibition.The hot summer in Piran will additionally be pepped up bynumerous workshops following the example of Warhol’s Factory.The organisers are preparing fine-arts workshops on pop art, agraffiti school and creative workshops for children. The exhibitionwill include playing movies filmed at a New York factory and musiciansperforming music of the era – tributes to the Velvet Underground,Lou Reed, Nico…

{ Art & Culture }Ljubljana, Galerija Alkatraz, Metelkova mesto, od. 17. junija do 1. julijaDeej Fabyc: Očka je bil vohunSovjetske zvezeBritansko-avstralska umetnica Deej Fabyc je v Ljubljani razstavljala že leta 2009 v okviruMednarodnega feminističnega in queer festivala Rdeče zore. Proces in raziskovanje sta pomembnaelementa umetničinih angažiranih performans/video predstavitev. To velja tudiza razstavo v Galeriji Alkatraz. Izhodiščna točka celotnega procesa je, da je kot otrok nekajmesecev živela v Ljubljani. V letu 1970 je bil njen oče, Paul Duncan Jones, kot statističnisvetovalec zaposlen v Ljubljani. Službena pot ga je v poznih 60-ih in zgodnjih 70-ih letihvodila po številnih vzhodnoevropskih deželah, a Ljubljana je bila edina izmed vseh mest,kamor je s seboj pripeljal še družino. Teh nekaj mesecev so živeli v Hotelu Bellevue v Tivoliju.Zaradi narave očetovega dela, njegovih neprestanih potovanj in stalne odsotnosti jeDeej Fabyc domnevala, da je vohun. Njen načrt je razkriti skrite sledove javnih in osebnihzgodovin, skozi katere naseljujemo in vidimo mesto. Otroškim spominom in potencialnoizmišljenim podrobnostim je v svojem potovanju in raziskovanju Ljubljane sledila kotkartograf in tako na mesto plastila alternativno zgodovino. Njen projekt se tako kot delonjenega očeta ukvarja z vprašanjem migracij, obenem pa zastavlja vprašanje, kje je mejamed domišljijo in resnico, če je resnica le konstrukt in ne produkt dejstev. Ali je glede nato, da za njenim bivanjem v Ljubljani ni nobenih sledi, sploh možno trditi, da je kratek čassvojega otroštva preživela v Sloveniji?Ljubljana, Alkatraz Gallery, Metelkova City, from 17 June to 1 JulyDeej Fabyc: Daddy was a Spy for the Soviet UnionThe British-Australian artist Deej Fabyc has already exhibited in Ljubljana in 2009 withinthe Red Dawns International Feminist and Queer Festival. The process and exploration areimportant elements of the artist’s socially engaged performances/video presentations. Thisalso applies to this exhibition at the Alkatraz Gallery. The starting point of the process was theartist living in Ljubljana for a few months in her youth. Her father, Paul Duncan Jones, workedas a statistics consultant in Ljubljana in 1970. His business trips in the late 60s and early 70stook him to numerous Eastern European countries and Ljubljana was the only city to which hebrought his family. They spent those few months at the Bellevue Hotel in Tivoli Park. Due tothe nature of her father’s work, his endless trips and constant absence, Deej Fabyc was convincedthat he was a spy. Her plan is to reveal the hidden traces of the public and personalhistories through which we inhabit and perceive cities. In exploring Ljubljana, she followedher childhood memories and potentially fictitious details on her way through the city as a cartographer,superimposing layers of alternative history on the city. Her project, like her father’swork, deals with issues related to migration, investigating at the same time the line betweenimagination and truth, as well as whether the truth is merely a construct and not a productof facts. Bearing in mind the fact that her stay in Ljubljana left no traces, could it really beclaimed that she spent a short period of her childhood in Slovenia?http://www.galerijalkatraz.orgLjubljana, Galerija Alkatraz, Metelkova mesto, od 6. do 13. julijaNeven Korda:Vrnitev,zbirka interaktivnih instalacijin video objektovNeven Korda je umetnik, ki deluje na področju performativnih inprojiciranih umetnosti. Raziskuje, prakticira in beleži čisto umetnost.Njegova video praksa je zato raziskovanje videa in ne žanrov ali vsebin,ki jih video posreduje. Njegov vizualist je Barbat Kanak. Kordaustvarja umetne situacije, ki potrebujejo živo interakcijo telesa, glasu,zvoka in videa, ter računalniško posredovanje. Je režiser in avtor gledališkihpredstav, avtorskih filmov, dokumentarcev in video spotov,obenem pa mentor in izvajalec delavnic uporabnega videa. Dejaven jena področju arhiviranja in ohranjanja video zapisov.Ljubljana, Alkatraz Gallery, Metelkova City, from 6 to 13 JulyNeven Korda: The Return, a Collection of InteractiveInstallations and Video ObjectsNeven Korda is an artist engaged in performance and projection art. Heexplores, practises and records pure art. His video practice is thereforerelated to exploration of video and not genres or content provided byvideo. His visualist is Barbat Kanak. Korda creates artificial situationsthat require live body, voice, sound and video interaction, as well ascomputer intervention. He has directed and created a number of theatreplays, author films, documentaries and music videos, and also tutorsand conducts workshops on applied video. Korda is also active in thefield of archiving and storing video recordings.( 17 )http://www.galerijalkatraz.orgFoto: Sunčan P. Stone; postavitev:Deej Fabyc / Photo by Sunčan P.Stone, directed and framed byDeej Fabyc

{ Umetnost & kultura }Ljubljana, Križanke, Cankarjev dom, Kino Šiška, Klub Gromka, Stara Ljubljana, od 29. junija do 2. julija52. jazz festival Ljubljana52. jazz festival Ljubljana se v Evropi ponaša z najdaljšo neprekinjeno tradicijo, a tudi v svetovnem merilu jele bore malo starejših. Festival predstavlja sodobno glasbeno ponudbo iz vsega sveta in domovine, ki izhajaiz kreativne tradicije jazza, ter ključne osebnosti in tudi manj znana, a obetavna imena. Poseben poudareknamenja evropskemu jazzu ter inovativnim, modernim in izzivalnim pristopom glasbenic in glasbenikov, kipresegajo žanrske, kulturne in druge stereotipe.V letošnjem programskem izboru bodo nastopili: zasedba legendarnega saksofonista Charles Lloyd Quartet,pevska zvezdnica jazza Maria João, eden najzanimivejših jazzovskih basistov William Parker, izjemno priljubljeniin dinamični Hidden Orchestra, doma priznana in v tujini uveljavljena slovenska pevka Mia Žnidarič& Steve Klink International Band, eden najboljših, vsekakor pa najzanimivejših bobnarjev in tolkalcev ZlatkoKaučič in še vrsta radovednost vzbujajočih umetnikov. Festivalsko dogajanje bo s tremi nastopi obeležilo10-letnico delovanja glasbene založbe Clean Feed.( 18 )Charles Lloyd, foto: Nada Žgank, arhiv CDLjubljana, Križanke, Cankarjev dom, Kino Šiška, Klub Gromka, Old Ljubljana, from 29 June to 2 July52nd Ljubljana Jazz FestivalThis year's 52 nd Ljubljana Jazz Festival boasts the longest unbroken tradition in Europe, and even on the worldscale there are few festivals that are older. The festival showcases modern music from all over the world, andalso from Slovenia, based on the creative jazz tradition, plus key figures and also some less famous but up-andcomingnames. It places special emphasis on European jazz and on the innovative, modern and challenging approachesof the musicians, who transcend genre, culture and other stereotypes.This year’s selection offers appearances by the Charles Lloyd Quartet, the band of the legendary saxophonist,the vocal star Maria João, one of the most exciting jazz bass players, William Parker, the enormously popular anddynamic Hidden Orchestra, the locally famous and internationally acclaimed Slovenian singer Mia Žnidarič &Steve Klink International Band, one of the best, and of course the exciting drummers and percussionists ZlatkoKaučič, plus a range of other fascinating performers. Festival events will feature three performances to celebratethe 10 th anniversary of the music publisher Clean Feed.Ljubljana, Kongresni trg, Križanke, Cankarjevdom, od 3. junija do 7. septembraFestivalLjubljana 2011Več kot tisoč glasbenikov in desetkrat več gledalcevbo 3. julija ob 21. uri napolnilo prenovljeni Kongresnitrg v Ljubljani, ki bo zaživel v monumentalni Simfonijitisočev Gustava Mahlerja. Nepozabna otvoritevFestivala Ljubljana 2011, katere častni pokrovitelj jepredsednik države dr. Danilo Türk, bo obeležila tudi20. obletnico ustanovitve držav Slovenije in Hrvaške.Spektakularnemu uvodu v 59. festivalsko poletjebo sledilo še 36 vrhunskih prireditev, na katerih bonastopilo več kot 3000 umetnikov iz 30 držav. Medvrhunci letošnjega bogatega programa, ki ga najdetena spletni strani www.ljubljanafestival.si, bodo vsekakor:predstava Tomaža Pandurja Somrak bogov,plesni poslastici Béjart Balleta iz Lozane in BorisaEifmana, koncert slovite milanske Scale pod taktirkoDaniela Hardinga in mjuzikl Hair s plesalci z WestEnda in Broadwaya.Ljubljana, Kongresni trg, Križanke, Cankarjevdom, from 3 June to 7 SeptemberLjubljana Festival 2011On 3 July at 9 pm, more than 1,000 musicians andten times as many spectators will fill the renovatedKongresni trg square in Ljubljana, which will come tolife with Gustav Mahler’s monumental Symphony of aThousand. The unforgettable opening of the LjubljanaFestival 2011, whose honorary sponsor is the Presidentof the Republic of Slovenia, Dr Danilo Türk, will also celebratethe 20 th anniversary of Slovenia’s and Croatia’sindependence. A spectacular intro to the 59 th festivalsummer will be followed by 36 top-level events featuringmore than 3,000 artists from 30 countries. Among thehighlights of this year’s rich programme, which can befound at www.ljubljanafestival.si, are Somrak bogov (Twilightof the Gods), a play by Tomaž Pandur, dance by theBéjart Ballet from Lausanne and Boris Eifman, a concertperformed by the famous Scala Orchestra from Milanunder the conduct of Daniel Harding, and the musicalHair with dancers from the West End and Broadway.http://www.ljubljanafestival.siBéjart Ballet iz Lozane: Bolero, foto: Francois Paolini / Béjart Balletfrom Lausanne: Bolero, Photo: Francois PaoliniOrkester Filarmonica della Scala, foto: Silvia Lelli / Filarmonicadella Scala Orchestra, Photo: Silvia Lelli

{ Art & Culture }54. Beneški bienale, Slovenski paviljon, od 4. junija do 27. novembraMirko Bratuša:Grelci za vroče občutkeKipar Mirko Bratuša se bo na Beneškem bienalu predstavil s kiparsko instalacijo, sestavljeno iz osmih prostostoječihantropomorfnih in vegetabilnih teles, ki bodo z napeljavami povezana v mrežo. Notranje, nevidnonapajanje bo kipe iz žgane gline ogrevalo, vlažilo in ohlajevalo. S hlajenjem enih bo dovajana toplota zaogrevanje drugih. Vzpostavljena bo mreža povezav kot sistem umetniških teles, ki kažejo na medsebojnoodvisnost. Metaforika takega skonstruiranega umetnostnega sistema je univerzalno uporabna za sodobnodružbo, v kateri se vse dogaja v medsebojnih relacijah: bogatenje na enem koncu sveta pomeni revščino nadrugem, zaskrbljeni smo zaradi ranljivosti ekosistema, ko izkoriščanje narave povzroča vse hujše naravne katastrofe,povezave iz družabnih omrežij sprožajo družbene nemire, ki spreminjajo politične sisteme.Grelci za vroče občutke so kompleksen kiparski sistem, ki bo združeval možnosti kiparskega medija kot dvodimenzionalnegain tridimenzionalnega, kot podobe na sebi in podobe nečesa drugega, kot optično, taktilnoin termalno občutje. Spajal bo različne plasti aktualnih in preteklih prostorov ter njihovih pomenov. Del projekta,štirje kipi iz serije Hipokriti, je bil jeseni leta 2010 postavljen v cerkvi nekdanjega cistercijanskega samostanav Kostanjevici na Krki. Ta plast časovne dimenzije bo v projekt vključena kot dokumentarna resničnost.Na razstavi v Slovenskem paviljonu bo projiciran videofilm videoumetnice in filmske režiserke Jasne Hribernik,ki bo interpretiral prostorsko postavitev v cerkvi v luči problematike svetlobe in zgodovinskih pomenovprostora, ki jo bo prikazal kot sled realnosti v smislu »arheologije« umetniške forme.Komisarka in kustosinja je Nadja Zgonik, projekt pa vodi Bojan Božič, direktor Galerije Božidar Jakac, Kostanjevicana Krki.( 19 )54 th Venice Biennial, Slovenian Pavilion, from 4 June to 27 NovemberMirko Bratuša: Heaters for Hot FeelingsThe sculptor Mirko Bratuša will present a sculpture installation at the Venice Biennial composed of eight freestandinganthropomorphic and vegetable pieces connected to a network. Hidden electrical fittings will heat,humidify and cool the fired-clay sculptures. The heat generated by the cooling of the first sculptures will be usedto heat the others. A network of connections will be set up as a system of artificial bodies indicating their mutualdependence. The metaphorics of an artistic system constructed in this manner are universally applicable tomodern society, in which everything happens in mutual relation: amassing wealth on one side of the planet leadsto poverty on the other, we worry about the vulnerability of the ecosystem, in which the exploitation of naturecauses increasingly severe natural disasters, and connections through social networks trigger social unrest,which changes political systems.Heaters for Hot Feelings forms a complex sculpture system combining the possibilities of the sculpture mediumas a two- and three-dimensional medium, as an image in itself and an image of something else, as an optical,tactile and thermal feeling. It combines various layers of present and past spaces and their meanings. Part ofthe project, four sculptures from the Hypocrites series, was installed in the church of the former Cistercian monasteryin Kostanjevica na Krki in the autumn of 2010. This layer of the time dimension will be included in theproject as a documentary reality. During the exhibition at the Slovenian Pavilion, a video by video artist and filmdirector Jasna Hribernik will be shown, which will, by analysing the light and the historical meanings of the space,interpret the spatial layout of the church and expose it as a trace of reality in the sense of the "archaeology" ofartistic forms.The commissioner and curator is Nadja Zgonik, while the project is managed by Bojan Božič, Director of theBožidar Jakac Gallery in Kostanjevica na Krki.

{ Umetnost & kultura }( 20 )Ljubljana, Galerija Photon, junij, julijRazstava madžarskihfoto klasikovGalerija Photon bo v sodelovanju z madžarskim muzejem za fotografijo iz Kecskeméta v Slovenijiprvič predstavila dela mednarodno priznanih avtorjev, kot sta André Kertész, Brassaï idr., danessplošno priznanih ikoničnih figur fotografije.Na razstavi bodo visela dela nekaterih verjetno najpomembnejših vzhodnoevropskih avtorjev,ki so kljub svoji osnovni geografski dislociranosti v zgodovino fotografije prispevali izjemnovplivno in samosvojo izraznost, a so jo uspeli doseči šele s selitvijo v velika umetniška središča.Usoda večine izmed njih – Laszlo Moholy–Nagy, André Kertész, Brassaï, Robert Capa idr. – je bilatorej tako ali drugače povezana z migracijo, začasno ali dosmrtno, ki jih je doletela iz ekonomskihali političnih razlogov. Kljub uveljavljanju v zahodnem svetu so številni madžarski ustvarjalciobdržali delček formalnih značilnosti, ki so lastne prav temu prostoru. Razstava v Galeriji Photonse bo osredotočila na temeljna dela nekaterih izmed omenjenih, prav tako pa tudi nekaterih vsvetovnem merilu malce manj prepoznavnih avtorjev, ki so s svojim delovanjem pomembno zaznamovaliin tudi spremenili svet avtorske in dokumentarne fotografije, kot so Martin Munkácsi,Rudolf Balogh, Károly Escher in József Pécsi.Ljubljana, Photon Gallery, June, JulyExhibition of Classic Hungarian PhotosIn collaboration with the Hungarian Museum of Photography from Kecskemét, the Photon Gallerywill, for the first time in Slovenia, display the works of internationally renowned artists and iconicfigures of photography such as André Kertész and Brassaï.The exhibition will include works of some of the arguably most important Eastern European photographerswho have, despite their geographically remote location, marked the history of photographywith exceptionally powerful and original expressiveness after moving to major art cities. The destiniesof most of the artists – Laszlo Moholy-Nagy, André Kertész, Brassaï, Robert Capa and others – wererelated to the migration (whether temporary or life-long) to which they were exposed for economic orpolitical reasons. Despite their success in the West, many Hungarian artists managed to retain part ofthe formal features characteristic for their country of origin. The exhibition at the Photon Gallery willfocus on major works of some of their photographers mentioned and some other lesser-known artistswho have greatly marked and changed the world of artistic and documentary photography, such asMartin Munkácsi, Rudolf Balogh, Károly Escher and József Pécsi.www.photon.siUroš Abram, porno 08Novo mesto, različne lokacije, od 25. julija do 6. avgustaFOTOPUB –11. mednarodni festival in delavnicedokumentarne fotografijeFotopub je fotografski festival, ki pripelje v Novo mesto številnaznana imena iz sveta dokumentarne fotografije in vsem ljubiteljemtovrstnega medija ponudi teden intenzivnih delavnicza različne stopnje fotografskega predznanja, poleg tega pa šedelavnico multimedije in novinarske reportaže. Vsi festivalskidogodki so odprti za javnost: razstave, večerne projekcije, kjermentorji in posebni gostje pripravijo fotografske zgodbe, četrtkovanagrada, ki je tekmovalni del festivala, ter Tribuna, javnadiskusija na izbrano temo. Tema letošnjega Fotopuba je »Zasebnooko«, mentorji pa priznana ameriška fotografinja BrendaAnn Kenneally za mojstre, norveški fotograf Espen Rasmussenza tiste bolj napredne in slovenski fotograf Uroš Abram za začetnike.Novo mesto, various venues, from 25 July to 6 AugustFotopub – 11th International Festival andWorkshops on Documentary PhotographyFotopub is a photography festival bringing to Novo mesto numerousrenowned names from the world of documentary photographyand offering a week of intense workshops for various levels ofprevious experience, along with a workshop on multimedia andjournalistic coverage. All festival events are open to the public:exhibitions, evening projections with tutors and special guests preparingphoto stories, the Thursday Award representing the competitionphase of the festival, and the Forum, a public discussionon a chosen topic. This year’s theme is "The Private Eye”. Masterswill be tutored by the leading American photographer Brenda AnnKenneally, the tutor for more advanced photographers will be theNorwegian photographer Espen Rasmussen and beginners will betutored by the Slovenian photographer Uroš Abram.Károly Escher, Sleet in Budapest, 1934 André Kertész, In front of a circus, 1920www.fotopub.si

{ Art & Culture }Ljubljana, Slovenski etnografski muzej, do 28. aprila 2012Orinoko,Indijanci amazonskegadeževnega gozdaRazstava Indijanci amazonskega deževnega gozda pripoveduje o sonaravnem življenjudvanajstih etničnih skupin, ki že stoletja živijo ob reki Orinoko v južniVenezueli. Skupine De’áruwa (Piaroa), Ye’kuana, Yanomami, Híwi (Guahibo),E’ñepa (Panare) in Hodi živijo v porečju reke Orinoko v Amazoniji, Wakuenai(Curripaco), Baniwa (Baniva), Baré, Puinave, Warekena in Tsase (Piapoco) so zobmočij Gvajane in Rio Negra z amazonskega porečja v Braziliji in Kolumbiji.Postavljena v slikovni in zvočni ambient deževnega gozda, razdeljena v triglavne sklope – narava, vsakdanje življenje, sistemi verovanj in obredov –, jihpredstavlja v gozdu, na rekah in v njihovih skupnih bivališčih.Razstava zajema zelo širok razpon predmetov (okrog 700): od obrednih –mask, okraskov iz perja, šamanskih pripomočkov, posvečenih palic in orožja – dopestrega izbora nakita – zapestnic, ogrlic in uhanov. Prav tako predstavlja bogatizbor pip, piščali, ropotulj in drugih glasbil, predmetov iz vsakdanjega življenja– čolnov, vesel, loncev in tkanin – ter bogato paleto edinstvenih in umetelnopletenih košar. Vsi ti predmeti jasno odražajo nezapleten odnos med njihovimiuporabniki in naravo: vse, kar izvira iz deževnega gozda, se mora tja tudi vrniti.Razstava z zbirko Orinoko Fundacije Cisneros iz Venezuele prvič prinaša v temobsegu slovenski publiki zgodbo o teh malo poznanih kulturah.( 21 )Ljubljana, Slovene Ethnographic Museum, until 28 April 2012Orinoco: Indians of the Amazon RainforestThe exhibition Indians of the Amazon Rainforest tells of the sustainable lifestyle of12 ethnic groups that have lived for centuries along the River Orinoco in southernVenezuela. The De’áruwa (Piaroa), Ye’kuana, Yanomami, Híwi (Guahibo), E’ñepa(Panare) and Hodi live in the Orinoco river basin in Amazonas. The Wakuenai (Curripaco),Baniwa (Baniva), Baré, Puinave, Warekena and Tsase (Piapoco) are fromGuyana and the Rio Negra Amazon river basin in Brazil and Columbia. Placedin a rainforest ambience created through sounds and images, and divided intothree sections – nature, everyday life, and systems of belief and rituals – they areshown in the forest, on the rivers and in their communal homes.The exhibition includes a very wide range of objects (around 700), from ritualitems – masks, decorations made from feathers, shaman's tools, sacred sticksand weapons – to a rich selection of jewellery: bracelets, necklaces and earrings.There is also a wide array of pipes, flutes, rattles and other instruments; objectsfrom everyday life – canoes, paddles, dishes and textiles; and a fine assortmentof unique, hand-woven baskets. All these objects clearly express the complexrelationship between their users and nature: everything that originates from therainforest must return to it. By displaying the Orinoco Collection of the CisnerosFoundation of Venezuela, the exhibition for the first time brings a more in-depthstory of these little-known cultures to the Slovenian audience.www.etno-muzej.siFoto: Rafael Santana

{ Umetnost & kultura / Art & Culture }( 22 )Zürich, Kunsthaus ZürichJoseph Beuys: Difesa della NaturaDo 14. avgustaObramba naraveDolga desetletja je Beuys (1921–1986)vsako leto nekaj tednov preživel v Bolognanuv Abruziji, kjer je sodeloval vestetsko-ekološkem projektu z naslovom»Difesa della Natura«. Kot nekaj, kar jeavtor štel za socialno skulpturo, naj bi»Difesa della Natura« presegla strogoumetniški vidik ter povzročila celovito reformogospodarskih in ekoloških praks vkmečkih krajih južne Italije, zato je v Bolognanuz leti nastalo veliko kipov, risb,grafik in brošur, ki so spremljali širokrazpon umetnikovih lokalnih dejavnosti.Kot sodobni gledalci imamo možnost, dasi ogledamo zanimiv kontekst, znotraj kateregaje nastal »Olivestone«, dandaneseno ključnih del v Kunsthausovi zbirki.Beuys je v Palazzo Durini odkril kadi izapnenca, ki so se uporabljale za pretakanjeoljčnega olja.Istanbul, Muzej sodobne umetnostiLale Tara: Nedolžni nadomestkiDo 4. septembraV svojem najnovejšem ciklu fotografij»Nedolžni nadomestki« nas turškafotografinja Lale Tara, znana po mizanscenah,ki jih ustvarja z nedolžniminadomestki, uvede v koncept transcendentalneteleportacije. Ta koncept, ki biga lahko opredelili kot potovanje skoziprostor-čas, nas vabi v svet, ki presegaracionalni um.Umetnica, ki razlaga, da cikel »Nedolžninadomestki« sestoji iz dvodimenzionalnihkopij stvarnosti, v katero verjamemo,je prepričana, da z vključevanjemteh nadomestkov v naše fantazijez zgodbami, ki nam jih predstavlja,dokazuje njihovo resničnost.London, galerija WhitechapelIan Berry: To je WhitechapelDo 4. septembraPodobno kot danes je vzhodni London vzgodnjih sedemdesetih letih doživljal hitresocialne in gospodarske spremembe.Ko se je uveljavljena judovska skupnostodselila in je na njeno mesto prišlojužnoazijsko prebivalstvo, je galerija Whitechapelnajela vodilnega britanskega fotografaIana Berryja, da bi dokumentiralto obdobje tranzicije.Kot član fotoreporterske organizacijeMagnum je Berry zaslovel s svojimi uličnimifotografijami. Posnel je zdaj že davnozgodovino ikonskih lokalnih znamenitosti,na primer košer restavracijo Bloom’s,pub Blind Beggar, tržnici na ulicah BrickLane in Petticoat Lane ter ljudi, ki so ži-veli v četrtih Whitechapel in Spitalfields,in iz tega gradiva pripravil veliko razstavo.Medtem ko se vzhodni London znovapripravlja na spremembe pred bližajočimise olimpijskimi igrami leta 2012, jeta razstava priložnost, da si ogledamo,kakšen je bil videti ta del mesta predštiridesetimi leti.Amsterdam, muzej CobraJacques Doucet, le Cobra françaisDo 18. septembra 2011Prvič je velika mednarodna razstavaposvečena delu francoskega avantgardnegaumetnika Jacquesa Douceta(1924–1994). Ta umetnik francoskegarodu, član umetniškega gibanja Cobra,je odigral pomembno vlogo v letih, ki sopripeljala do fenomena Cobra. V zamenomu je obdobje Cobre ponudilo enkratneizkušnje, ki so močno vplivale na njegovopoznejše delo. Doucet se je umetnikomCobre pridružil zaradi tega, ker mu jeduh gibanja zagotovil svobodo, da se jeoddaljil od smeri, ki jih narekuje razum,in začel bolj poglobljeno raziskovati prvobitnevire ustvarjalnosti.Delo Jacquesa Douceta je neločljivopovezano z avantgardo 20. stoletja insvobodo, ki jo je ta avantgarda ustvarilater umetnikom omogočila, da so spontanorazvrščali oblike, barve in materiale,ne da bi jih pri tem ovirale akademsketradicije.Razstava osvetljuje širok, večstranskiopus tega francoskega umetnika. Vključujeveč kot 80 del od začetka njegoveumetniške kariere v zgodnjih štiridesetihletih do njegovih zadnjih stvaritev.Pariz, Jeu de PaumeSantu Mofokeng: Lov za sencami, 30let fotoesejevDo 25. septembraRazstava in spremljajoča knjiga združujetaedinstven izbor fotoesejev, ki jihje Santu Mofokeng pripravil v preteklihtridesetih letih.Santu Mofokeng predstavlja izbor večkot 200 podob (fotografij in diapozitivov),besedil in dokumentov. Fotoeseje jepripravljal dolga leta, nekateri so celovseživljenjski projekti, ki še vedno trajajo,obsegajo pa vse od Soweta njegove mladosti,njegovega raziskovanja življenjana kmetijah, vsakodnevnega življenja včrnskem mestu ter zlasti predstavitevnjegovih in družinskih zgodb o črnihJužnoafričanih do podob avtorjevegaraziskovanja verskih obredov in tipologijpokrajine, vključno z njegovim najnovejšimprojektom Sijoča pokrajina, ki je bilnaročen posebej za to retrospektivo.Zürich, Kunsthaus ZürichJoseph Beuys: Difesa della NaturaUntil 14 AugustDefence of nature: For decades, Beuys(1921–1986) would spend a few weekseach year in Bolognano, Abruzzi, workingon an aesthetico-ecological project knownas "Difesa della Natura". As what heconsidered social sculpture, "Difesa dellaNatura" was intended to reach beyond thestrictly artistic to effect a comprehensivereform of the economic and ecologicalpractices of this farming town in southernItaly, and thus over the years Bolognanosaw the production of numerous sculptures,drawings, prints and brochures toaccompany Beuys’s wide range of localactivities. For viewers today, these offer afascinating glimpse at the context out ofwhich "Olivestone" emerged, today amongthe key works in the Kunsthaus collection:Beuys discovered the limestone basins inthe Palazzo Durini, where they were in usefor decanting olive oil.Istanbul, Museum of Modern ArtLale Tara: Innocent SurrogatesUntil 4 SeptemberIn her latest cycle of photographs "InnocentSurrogates", Turkish photographerLale Tara, whom we know from the mise-en-scènes she creates with innocentsurrogates, introduces us to the conceptof transcendental teleportation. This concept,which can be defined as a journeyin space-time, invites us into a world thattranscends the rational mind.The artist, who explains that the cycleconsists of two-dimensional copies of thereality we believe in, believes that theinclusion of these surrogates in our fantasiesthrough the stories she conveys tous proves that they are real.London, Whitechapel GalleryIan Berry: This is WhitechapelUntil 4 SeptemberMuch like today, East London in the1970s was undergoing rapid social andeconomic change. As the establishedJewish community moved away and asouth Asian population took their place,the Whitechapel Gallery commissionedleading British photographer Ian Berry todocument this period of transition.A member of the photojournalist organisationMagnum, Berry had established areputation for his street photography. Hecaptured a now distant history of iconiclocal landmarks, such as Bloom’s kosherrestaurant, the Blind Beggar pub, BrickLane and Petticoat Lane markets andthe people who lived in Whitechapel andSpitalfields, to create a major exhibition.As East London prepares for changeonce more with the 2012 Olympics, thisexhibition is an opportunity to see whatthe area was like 40 years ago.Amsterdam, Cobra MuseumJacques Doucet, Le Cobra FrançaisUntil 18 SeptemberFor the very first time, a major internationalexhibition is being devoted to thework of the French avant-garde artist,Jacques Doucet (1924–1994). ThisFrench-born Cobra artist played a strikingrole in the years leading up to theemergence of Cobra. In turn, the Cobraperiod offered him unique experiencesthat would have a major influence on hislater work. Doucet joined the Cobra artistsbecause the spirit of the movementgave him the freedom to depart from directionsdictated by reason and to moredeeply investigate the primal origins ofcreativity.Jacques Doucet's work is inextricablybound with the 20 th -century avant-gardeand the freedom it generated, allowingartists to spontaneously arrange forms,colours and materials, unimpeded byacademic traditions.The exhibition highlights the broad,multi-sided oeuvre of this French artist.It includes more than 80 works, fromthe beginning of his artistic career in theearly 1940s through to his last works.Paris, Jeu de PaumeSantu Mofokeng: Chasing Shadows,30 years of photographic essaysUntil 25 SeptemberThe exhibition and accompanying bookbring together a unique selection of thephotographic essays made by Santu Mofokengover the last 30 years.Santu Mofokeng presents a selection ofmore than 200 images (photographs anda slideshow), texts and documents. Thephotographic essays he has composedover the years, some of which are a lifelongwork in progress, range from theSoweto of his youth, his investigations oflife on the farms, the everyday life of thetownship and in particular, representationsof the self and family histories ofblack South Africans, to images from theartist’s ongoing exploration of religiousrituals and of typologies of landscapes,including his most recent project RadiantLandscapes, commissioned for thisretrospective.

{ Adrijin potnik }MitjaOkornV resnem razmerju.S filmom.Besedilo: Patricija Maličev Fotografije: Bor Dobrin( 34 )Mitja Okorn je star trideset let. Za seboj imazavidljivo filmsko kariero, poleg snemanjaštevilnih domačih in tujih videospotov inreklam se lahko pohvali z dvema igranima celovečercema,Tu pa tam ter s pravkar posnetim poljskim Letters to St.Nicholas (Pisma Sv. Nikolaju).Kranjčan. Svetovljanski. V intervjujih ga večkrat najavljajos »hiperaktiven«. Toda pred menoj sedi fant, ne še moški,z zanj značilno čepico na glavi – in skejtom pod mizo –,ki sam precej dobro ve, kaj hoče v življenju, in je za topripravljen garati. Talent mu je pri tem v precejšnjo oporo.Živi med Poljsko in Slovenijo, toda v zadnjih dveh letihpredvsem na Poljskem, kjer so ga angažirali za snemanjetam najbolj priljubljene tv nadaljevanke 39 in pol terštevilnih tv reklam najprestižnejših naročnikov; ne grepa pozabiti tudi na režijo njegovih večkrat nagrajenihvideospotov poljske glasbene skupine Afromental. Ševedno sanja o svojem sedaj že tretjem celovečercu Član.Pravi, da mu bo nekoč uspelo. Punce zaenkrat nima. Jenamreč v resnem razmerju s filmom.Kakšen je bil Mitja kot otrok?Takšen, kot je zdaj. Neprenehoma sem nekaj ustvarjal, organiziral, režiralživljenja drugih ter bil glasen in problematičen. Samo malenkost večlas sem imel (smeh).Kot mulec ste skejtali in kasneje to veliko ljubezen iznajdljivo združili sše večjo – s filmom.Med skakanjem čez stopnice, uničevanjem marmornatih robnikov terštevilnimi izvini gležnjev in zlomi rok sem občutil nepopisen adrenalin,ki sem ga želel pokazati tudi vsem tistim, ki niso poznali privlačnostitega športa. Vzel sem očetovo kamero in nastal je prvi slovenski skejterskifilm s pomenljivim naslovom Not sponsored, saj so kranjski skejterjivedno veljali za izobčence in nas ni nihče jemal resno ali podpiral. Jaz pasem vztrajal in s filmom, njegovim nadaljevanjem ter akcijami, s katerimisem pridobil vsem nadaljnjim generacijam tudi prvi skejtpark, povzročilnovo ero slovenskega skejtanja. Prav to, skejtersko uporništvo mije v življenju vedno pomagalo pri premagovanju ovir. Zato bom vednoostal skejter po duši.

( 35 )Kaj vas je vodilo, da niste obupali, ko ste še kot najstnik kar štiri letasnemali svoj prvi film Tu pa tam s 70-člansko ekipo prijateljev in družinepopolnoma brez sredstev, nato pa zanj prejeli nagrado za najbolj gledanslovenski film leta 2005 – zlato rolo?Notranji glas in intuicija vseskozi vesta, kaj in kdo si v resnici želiš postati.S filmom Tu pa tam sem tudi sam prišel do te resnice in dojel, da siželim biti samo režiser in nič drugega kot to. Moj hobi – snemanje – je postalmoje življenje. Življenje, ki pa zagotovo ni enostavno, kot je denimotisto v utečenem vsakdanu in predstavlja za večino ljudi najenostavnejšoopcijo. Vendar je to le na videz varno in udobno. Za tisto nekaj več pa jetreba imeti pogum. Garati je treba z rokami in možgani. Ali kot je rekelSteve Jobs: Treba je ostati lačen in norčav. Seveda pa je najbolj pomembno,da nikoli ne obupaš.Kako so vas našli tuji producenti?Vrsto let sem po svetu neumorno obiskoval filmske festivale in vsevprekdelil svoje vizitke in predstavitvene dvd-je. Potem me je nekega dne enaod teh deset tisočih oseb le poklicala – producentka največje poljsketelevizije TVN. Vprašala me je, ali bi prišel k njim snemat serijo 39 in pol.Naslednji dan sem sedel na letalu za Varšavo ... Serija je kmalu podrla vserekorde gledanosti in priljubljenosti.Pravkar ste zaključili svoj drugi celovečerec, Letters to st. Nicholas, kiste ga posneli na Poljskem in s tem postali prvi slovenski režiser v zgodovini,ki je tam posnel tako velik film.Za mano je štirideset intenzivnih snemalnih dni, da ne govorim o pripravahna film. Zdaj me čaka montaža, sicer pa gre za sladko-grenkozgodbo, ki se začne na božični dan in konča naslednje jutro ter v temčasu preplete usode ljudi, ki jim ta praznik za vedno spremeni življenje.Ponosen sem, da sem imel priložnost že pri svojem prvem poljskemfilmu sodelovati s toliko vrhunskimi poljskimi igralci in igralkami. Filmsicer oglašujejo kot družinsko komedijo, seveda pa si nisem mogel kaj,da ga ne bi začinil z malo Okornovega »crazy« humorja. Tako da se bodotudi gledalci, ki običajno ne marajo božičnih filmov, lahko poistovetiliz marsičim. In to že v novembru, ko bo film premierno prikazan v vsehvečjih poljskih kinematografih, dogovarjam se seveda tudi za prikaz v

{ Adria Passenger }Sloveniji. Ker pa je dober film umetnost in umetnost univerzalna, si želim,da bi moj film našel svojo publiko tudi drugod po svetu.obdobju padca komunizma in razpada Jugoslavije. To je film, ki ga močnočutim, ki ga želim posneti, režirati. To je film, ki ga hočem živeti!Slovenščina je vaš materni jezik. Obvladate poljščino – imate mordanajljubšo besedo?Smešno. Ker v zadnjem letu skorajda nisem govoril slovensko, je poljščinanekako postala moj »materni« jezik. Ob vrnitvi v Slovenijo sem namrečugotovil, da sem pozabil ogromno besed in da govorim s poljskimnaglasom.Ena mojih ljubših poljskih besed pa bi bila lahko »zajebiste«. Besedica,ki morda deluje kot kletvica, pa ni, saj v prevodu pomeni »jebeno dobro«!Z njo vselej izražam navdušenje.Kako pa gre vašemu projektu Član?Film Član, to so moje sanje. Projekt, na katerega čakam že šest let in ki sebo zgodil ob najbolj pravem trenutku. Gre za film, resnično zgodbo črnogorskegapriseljenca v Sloveniji, razpetega med kriminalom in glasbo, vČe vas povabijo v Hollywood – hipotetično, kakšne vrste filma bi se najprejlotili?Sploh ni pomembno, kje, v Sloveniji, na Poljskem, v Hollywoodu – povsodbi se lotil istega filma. Filma z zgodbo, ki mi je všeč. Je pa res, da bito želel snemati brez kakršnih koli omejitev in z možnostjo, da ta filmvidijo po celem svetu. Kar se tega tiče, je Hollywood pač najboljša izbira.Zavedam pa se, da za izgubljene priložnosti tam nimajo nikjer oddelkaza najdene predmete. Dobiš »One shot«, kot poje Eminem ... Življenju jetreba pustiti, da ti ob namenjenem trenutku ponudi, kar ti ima ponuditi.In to zagrabiš. Trenutno sem več kot zadovoljen, da mi je ponudilo Poljskoin z njo priložnost, da se marsičesa naučim. Nekakšen študij, lahkorečem. Morda bom na Poljskem na ta način s projekti opravil »magisterij«in nato »vrgel kapo visoko v zrak« v Ameriki.( 36 )Mitja OkornIn a Serious Relationship.With Film.Text: Patricija Maličev Photography: Bor DobrinMitja Okorn is thirty years old. He has already had an enviablefilm career. In addition to making several Slovenian and foreignvideos and advertisements, he has made two feature films, Hereand There and the just completed Polish film Letters to St.Nicholas. He is from Kranj. He is cosmopolitan. In interviews he isoften described as “hyperactive”. But before me sits a boy, not yet aman, with his trademark cap on his head (and a skateboard underthe table), who has a pretty good idea about what he wants fromlife and is ready to push himself hard to get it. His talent gives hima substantial foothold. He lives between Poland and Slovenia, butin the last two years mostly in Poland, where he has been hired tofilm their most popular show, 39 and a half, and several TV adsfrom top-level clients – and he also directed the videos for thePolish band Afromental, which have received several awards. He isstill dreaming about his third feature film, The Member. He saysthat he’ll be able to make it someday. He doesn’t have a girlfriendright now. He’s in a serious relationship with film.What was Mitja like as a child?Like he is now. I was constantly making things, organising things, directingother people’s lives, and I was loud and problematic. I just had alittle more hair. (laughs)As a kid you were a skater, and later you ingeniously combined that greatlove with an even greater one – film.While I was jumping stairs, destroying marble kerbs and after severalsprained ankles and broken arms, I experienced an indescribable adrenalinrush that I wanted to share with everyone who didn’t understand the appealof the sport. I grabbed my dad’s camera and made the first Slovenianskater film with the pointed title Not Sponsored, since Kranj skaters were alwaystreated like outcasts and nobody took us seriously or supported us.But I kept on going, and through the film and its sequels and campaigns,I managed to get the first Slovenian skateboard park built, which started anew era in Slovenian skateboarding and will be a legacy for all the cominggenerations. In fact, my skater rebelliousness has helped me overcomeobstacles all my life. So I’ll always be a skater at heart.What was it that drove you not to give up when as a teenager it took youfour years to make your first film, Here and There, with a 70-memberteam of friends and family and no funding whatsoever, and then you receivedthe Golden Reel award for the most popular Slovenian film of 2005?Your inner voice and intuition always know what and who you reallywant to become. With Here and There I came to that awareness and realisedthat I wanted to be a director and nothing but a director. My hobby,filmmaking, became my life. It’s definitely not a simple life, like onewith an everyday routine, which is the simplest option for the majorityof people. But that kind of life is only outwardly safe and comfortable.For that something extra you need courage. You have to work with yourhands and your mind. Or as Steve Jobs said, “Stay hungry. Stay foolish.”Of course the most important thing is to never give up.

How did foreign producers find you?For several years I went around the world attending film festivals andhanding out my business cards and promotional DVDs. Then one dayone of those ten thousand people just called me – a producer fromPoland’s number one television station, TVN. She asked me if I wouldcome direct their show 39 and a half. The next day I got on a plane to Warsaw.Shortly after that the show started breaking all of the viewer andpopularity records.You have just completed your second feature film, Letters to St. Nicholas,which you shot in Poland, thus becoming the first Slovenian directorto direct a major film there.We spent forty days of incredibly intense filming, not to mention all ofthe preparations. We’re waiting for the editing now, but otherwise thefilm is a bittersweet story that begins on Christmas day and ends thefollowing morning, and reveals the intertwined fates of people whoselives are changed forever by the holiday. I am proud to have had theopportunity to work with such first-rate Polish actors and actresses inmy first Polish film. The film is being promoted as a family comedy,but of course I couldn’t help but season it with a little bit of Okorn’s“crazy” humour. So even people who usually don’t like Christmas filmswill find a lot to identify with. And this is already in November, whenthe film will be shown in all of the larger Polish cinemas; of course I’mnegotiating to show it in Slovenia as well. Since a good film is a work ofart and art is universal, I hope that my film will also find an audienceelsewhere around the world.Slovene is your mother tongue. You speak excellent Polish – do youhave a favourite word?It’s funny. Since I almost haven’t spoken Slovene in the last year, Polishhas somehow become my mother tongue. When I came back to SloveniaI realised that I had forgotten a huge amount of words and that I speakwith a Polish accent.One of my favourite Polish words would be “zajebiste”. It sounds likeit could be a coarse swear word, but it isn’t; it translates as “damn good”.I always use it to express enthusiasm.How is your project The Member going?The Member is my dream. I have been waiting for it for six years, and itwill happen when the moment is right. It is a true story about an immigrantwho came to Slovenia from Montenegro, suspended betweencrime and music, during the period of the fall of communism and thebreakup of Yugoslavia. It’s a film that I really feel that I want to make.It’s a film that I want to live!If you were invited to Hollywood, hypothetically, what kind of film wouldyou start with?It doesn’t matter where, Slovenia, Poland, Hollywood – I would makethe same film anywhere. A film with a story that I like. Of course I wouldlike to make it without any restrictions and with the possibility of itbeing shown all over the world. From this aspect Hollywood is the bestchoice. But I am aware that there is no lost and found there for missedopportunities. You get “one shot”, as Eminem says. You have to let lifeoffer what it has to offer you at the right moment. And you grab hold ofit. At the moment I am more than satisfied that it offered me Poland,and with it the opportunity to learn so much. A kind of education, youmight say. Perhaps I’ll get my masters in Poland and then “throw mygraduation cap high into the air” in America.A( 37 )

MakedonijaPoletjeobjezerih( 38 )Res je da, sta bili Makedonija in Slovenijanekoč del iste države, vendar vsakana drugem koncu Jugoslavije, tako dao Makedoniji razen tega, da sem poznal nekajstereotipov o pridelavi riža in tobaka ter okusnihparadižnikih, nisem imel kakšne posebnepredstave.Ohridsko jezero, zaščiteno pod UNESCOM innujna postaja na potovanju po Makedoniji, je s 50kilometri makedonske obale primerljivo z dolžinoslovenskega morja. Zaradi svoje lege na 690 metrihnadmorske višine je ob jezeru čez dan znosno vroče, ponoči se prijetnoohladi. Restavracije, kavarne in bari na obali so mamljivi, hrana,ki jo na veselje gurmanov strežejo tudi ob poznih nočnih urah,ko se v lokalih, odprtih na ulice, odvija pestro nočno življenje, je posvoji pripravi in okusu deležna le presežkov. Samostani in cerkvicena idiličnih lokacijah ob vodi, vožnje s čolni, pogledi na jezero zokoliških hribov, plavanje in namakanje v prijetni vodi ...Besedilo in fotografije: Matic Brumen

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{ Makedonija }( 40 )V vasici Brajčino, ki leži v neokrnjeni naravi med Prespanskim jezeromin naravnim parkom Pelister, se obiskovalec vrne nekaj desetletijnazaj v času. V stari stavbi lokalne trgovine je hkrati še družabni prostor,kjer domačini igrajo šah in karte, pred stavbo, centralno točkodogajanja v vasi, pa je tako čez dan kot ob večerih zbrana večja skupinamoških, ki debatirajo ob cigaretah in pivu. Vaščani, ki se šele spoprijemajoz možnostmi privatnih pobud in ponujanja storitev, od katerih seda tudi živeti, obiskovalcem ob domači hrani bolj svetujejo kot ponujajoaktivnosti v naravi. Se pa trudijo, da bi vas postavili na zemljevid svetaz eko turizmom. Iz Brajčine vodi strma pot v park Pelister, kjer od boljnevarnih živalskih vrst prebivajo medvedi, kače in divji prašiči, travnatapokrajina pa je zaradi obilice pisanih vrst rastlin prav lirična. Mimo vrhana 2400 metrih in Velikega jezera (Golemo jezero, kjer je tudi planinskakoča) se na drugo stran pot spušča proti Bitoli.Severno od Pelisterja je manjše mesto Prilep; na njegovem obrobju jez majhnimi belimi kamni posuta pot, ki pelje mimo trdnjave Markovihkul do samostana Treskavec. Markove kule naj bi bil zapustil znamenitikraljevič Marko, srbski kralj, ki je vladal v tem delu Makedonije. Trdnjavaje na 200 metrov visokem hribu, kjer se nahajajo izkopanine še iz antičnihin rimskih časov. V času turških vpadov se je v utrdbo skrilo tudiokoliško prebivalstvo in tukaj vztrajalo do Markove smrti ter prevladeTurkov ob koncu 14. stoletja. Z vrha trdnjave seže pogled do nasadovtobaka, ki se razprostirajo za mestom ter po Prilepskem jezeru in okoliškihhribih.Z Markovih kul pridemo v dveh urah po pešpoti do samostana Treskavec,skritega na višini 1400 metrov. Pot se pne po travnato-kamnitipokrajini, kjer se zdi, kot bi bil na luni: ogromni kamni in skale ležijo vnenavadnih položajih, kot bi prileteli z neba. V mnogih prepoznamo živalskelike. Tako popotnika že sama zložna hoja v hrib po tej pokrajini inpod žgočim soncem rahlo premakne v drug svet, v stanje zamaknjenosti,in ga tako pripravi na poseben kraj, ki ga čaka. Za kamnitimi skladise pred pogledi iz doline skriva samostan, ki naj bi ga bili prvič zgradiliv 12. stoletju in ga nato večkrat porušili. Nekoč je v samostanu delovalookrog sto pravoslavnih menihov, vendar po vseh menjavah režimovdanes deluje le še eden. Nekdanje celice samostana so preurejene v ličneskromne sobice za popotnike, ki za prenočitev plačajo toliko, kolikor želijo.Na voljo je kuhinja, prijazni mladi fantje, študentje iz Skopja, ki tampreživljajo poletja, pa popotnike prijazno postrežejo s čajem.Samostani in cerkvice na idiličnihlokacijah ob vodi, vožnje s čolni,pogledi na jezero z okoliških hribov,plavanje in namakanje v prijetni vodi ...

{ Makedonija }( 41 )

{ Makedonija }( 42 )Nekoliko južneje od Prespanskega jezera ob meji z Grčijo je očarljivomesto Bitola, ki je bilo od padca kraljeviča Marka do začetka 20. stoletjadel otomanskega imperija. Bitola je poimenovana mesto konzulov, saj je vnjej na prehodu iz 19. v 20. stoletje živelo 12 konzulov, kar takoj opazimopo razkošni arhitekturi. Njena razmejenost med vzhod in zahod jo delaprivlačno še danes, ponaša se z univerzo in s kinematografsko tradicijo– brata Manaki naj bi bila v Bitoli posnela prvi film na Balkanu. Iz prostranebaščaršije in mnogih minaretov, ki se dvigajo nad mestom, ter izposebne kulinarične ponudbe pa se širi vonj po vzhodu.Ob obisku jugozahodnega dela Makedonije mi je bilo jasno, da imastereotip o odličnem makedonskem paradižniku trdno osnovo, prepričalpa sem se tudi o neokrnjeni in mikavni naravi južne Makedonije. Klimatskerazmere ravno pravšnje, hrana sveža in okusna, cene v primerjavis slovenskimi zelo ugodne. Ljudje mehki, prijazni, dobronamerni inpošteni, kot bi se jih še ne dotaknila okrutnost ponorelega kapitalizma.Restavracije, lokali in ulice polne ljudi, ki se sprehajajo, posedajo po klopeh,predvsem pa med seboj komunicirajo. Življenje, ki se odvija zunajdomov in se ne konča ob sončnem zahodu, pa traja pozno v noč.

{ Macedonia }( 43 )

{ Macedonia }Summersby the LakesText and photography: Matic Brumen( 44 )While it’s true that Macedonia and Slovenia wereonce part of the same country, they were at oppositeends of Yugoslavia, so apart from a few stereotypesabout growing rice and tobacco, along with juicy tomatoes,I had no particular idea what Macedonia was like.Lake Ohrid, under UNESCO protection and an essential stop on anytrip to Macedonia, provides the country with 50 kilometres of shoreline,which is comparable to Slovenia’s own coast. Its position at 690 metresabove sea level means the lake is tolerably hot by day, and it cools offpleasantly at night. The restaurants, cafes and bars along the shore arehard to resist, and the food, which to the delight of foodies is served evenlate into the night, when the local establishments that open onto thestreet provide plenty of nightlife variety, can only be described in superlativesin terms of preparation and taste. Monasteries and tiny churchesat idyllic locations by the water, boat rides, views of the lake from thesurrounding hills, swimming and soaking in the pleasant water…In the little village of Brajčino, which lies in unspoilt surroundings betweenLake Prespa and Pelister Nature Park, the visitor is taken back severaldecades in time. The old building housing the local shop also servesas a place for socialising, where the locals play chess and cards, whilein front of the building, the central point of all goings-on in the village,both day and night there is a sizeable group of men gathered there for debateover cigarettes and beer. The villagers, who are only just getting togrips with the possibilities of private initiative and offering services thatcan provide a livelihood, tend more to offer advice to visitors over somelocal food, rather than offering activities in nature. But they are tryingto get their village on the world map through ecotourism. From Brajčinoa steep trail leads to Pelister Park, where the more dangerous animalinhabitants include bears, snakes and wild pigs. The hundreds of colourfulplant species give this landscape a lyrical appeal, and past the 2,400metre peak and the lake of Golemo jezero (where there is also a mountainlodge), on the other side the trail heads down towards Bitola.North of Pelister is the little town of Prilep; at its margins is a trailstrewn with little white stones that leads past the fortress of Markovekule to the monastery of Treskavec. Markove kule was supposedly abandonedby the famous Marko Kraljević, or Prince Marko, the Serbian kingwho ruled this part of Macedonia. The fortress stands on a 200-metre highhilltop, where finds from Antiquity and Roman times have been discovered.During the period of Turkish incursions, the fortress also provided aMonasteries and tiny churches atidyllic locations by the water,boat rides, views of the lake from thesurrounding hills, swimming andsoaking in the pleasant water…refuge for the surrounding population, which held out here until Marko’sdeath and the onset of Turkish dominance at the end of the 14th century.The top of the fortress offers a view of tobacco plantations stretching outbehind the town, and of the Prilep lake and surrounding hills.From Markove kule a two-hour hike along the footpath takes you to themonastery of Treskavec, hidden away at an altitude of 1,400 metres. Thetrail rises through a landscape of grass and rock, where you might thinkyou’re on the moon. Vast rocks and boulders lie in unusual positions, as if

( 45 )they had landed from the sky. In many of them you can make out animalforms. In this way a gentle hike into the hills through this landscape andunder the burning sun shifts the traveller gradually into a different world,into a state of removal, thereby preparing him for the special place thatawaits. Concealed behind the stacks of stone, out of sight from the valley,stands a monastery supposedly first built in the 12th century and then torndown several times. At one time there were around a hundred Orthodoxmonks at the monastery, but after all the regime changes there is now justone. The former monastic cells have been converted into neat, modestlittle rooms for wayfarers, who pay whatever they want to stay the night.There is a kitchen available, and the friendly young student lads from Skopjewho spend the summer there happily serve tea to travellers.A little further to the south from Lake Prespa, along the border withGreece, is the enchanting town of Bitola, which from the demise ofMarko Kraljević and up to the beginning of the 20th century was part ofthe Ottoman Empire. Bitola is called the town of consuls, since at the end ofthe 19th and beginning of the 20th century some 12 consuls lived here, andthis is immediately noticeable in the luxurious architecture. Its senseof division between East and West renders it still attractive today, andit boasts a university and cinema tradition – the Manaki brothers purportedlymade the first film in the Balkans here in Bitola. The extensivebaščaršija or souk and the many minarets rising above the town, as wellas the culinary specialities on offer, give off a fragrance of the East.Visiting the south-western part of Macedonia, it was clear to me thatthe stereotype of outstanding Macedonian tomatoes had a solid basis,and I was also able to confirm first hand the unspoilt natural attractionsof southern Macedonia. The climate is just right, the food fresh andtasty, and prices compared to Slovenia are very agreeable. The people aregentle, friendly, well-intentioned and honest, as if they had not yet beentouched by the ruthlessness of unbridled capitalism. Restaurants, cafesand streets full of people walking, sitting on benches and, most importantly,communicating with each other. Life, which is pursued outsidethe home and does not close down with the sunset, but lasts late intothe night.AAdria Airways leti na liniji Ljubljana–Skopje dvakrat dnevno.Adria Airways flies between Ljubljana and Skopje twice a day.

Goričko( 46 )Zeleni otokpresahlegamorjaPo rodu sem Prekmurec, a moji prvi otroški spomini na Prekmurje nisonajlepši. Rodil sem se v Ljubljani, bil sem mestni otrok, oče pa me je vsakešolske počitnice za dva, tri tedne vzel s sabo v Veliko Polano. In medtem, koje on tam pisal katerega od svojih romanov, hodil na lov in ribolov ali pa klepetal ssošolci in prijatelji iz otroških let ob kozarcu jurke ali klitona z domače brajde, sembil jaz bolj ali manj prepuščen samemu sebi in svoji iznajdljivosti. To so bili časi, kose je svetilo še s petrolejko, o tistem redkem avtomobilu, ki je pripeljal skozi vas, pase je govorilo še cel teden. Tako je razumljivo, da sem se zdel polanskim otrokomskorajda tako tuj in nenavaden kot kakšen zeleni možic iz vesolja, sam pa praktičnotudi nisem razumel niti besede tega, kar so govorili. Ni presenetljivo, da sem sesvojih prisilnih prekmurskih počitnic kmalu naveličal in si vroče želel nazaj domov vLjubljano, Prekmurje pa mi je postajalo z vsakim letom bolj zoprno. A ne za vedno!Besedilo in fotografije: Miško Kranjec

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{ Goričko }( 48 )Vse se je spremenilo, ko sem mnogo let kasneje na eni odpoti tja spoznal Cvetko, žensko svojega življenja. Bilo je,kot da bi si nataknil očala in nenadoma videl vse drugačein v popolnoma novi luči. Takrat sem se začel tudi resnoukvarjati s fotografijo in Prekmurje s svojimi dobrimi, odprtimi ljudmi,s svojimi logi in močvarami, s slamo kritimi hišami, z Muro ter ravnico,katere horizonta ni zastirala nobena gora, je postalo moje najljubše področjefotografskih iskanj.Če sem rekel, da prekmurskega obzorja ne kazi nobena gora, pa to nepomeni, da je ravnina povsod, kamorkoli se obrneš. Na severu se nagrbančiin vzpne, a takoj za cesto, ki vodi iz Moravcev v Lendavo, že preideravnica v nizko gričevje, ki se razteza vse tja do avstrijske in madžarskemeje. Goričko, kot se ta svet, razumljivo, imenuje, nam ravenskim Prekmurcemni bilo nikoli povsem pri srcu. Ljudje, ki so tam živeli, so bilimalo drugačni, »inačišnji« bi rekli mi po domače, pa tudi prekmurščina,ki so jo govorili, ni bila čisto enaka. Sam nisem veren, a brez dvoma jeimela tudi vera nekaj pri tem, saj je na Ravenskem in Markovskem domarimskokatoliška cerkev, oni tam gori pa so protestantje.Tako me moje poti in fotografska iskanja niso ravno pogosto zaneslimed goričke griče, ko pa so me že, sem se počutil nekako utesnjenega.Tam spodaj je bil pogled čist, okoli se je bočilo neizmerno nebo, prekokaterega so počasi pluli beli oblaki; a četudi so bili črni in se je iz njihgrozeče pobliskavalo, si vedel pravočasno, kaj prihaja. Tudi zgubiti se nidalo zlahka, saj si v nebo štrleče zvonike vaških cerkva videl na kilometredaleč.Nekega dne pred dobrimi štirimi leti pa je zazvonil telefon. Na drugistrani se je oglasil Anton Vratuša, dolgoletni ugledni slovenski politik,velik Prekmurec po srcu in eden od ustanoviteljev Ustanove dr. Šiftarjevafundacija Petanjci. Povedal je, da ustanova pripravlja vodnik po Goričkem,ki je bilo leta 2003 z uredbo Vlade Republike Slovenije razglašeno zakrajinski park, in da si zelo želi, da bi fotografije za ta vodnik posnel jaz.Izkazano zaupanje mi je pomenilo veliko priznanje, a vseeno sem sivzel čas za premislek. Za dobro pokrajinsko fotografijo je potrebno vsajtroje: čas, odgovarjajoči, po možnosti izjemni svetlobni in vremenskipogoji ter ustrezen osebni odnos do pokrajine. Za prva dva pogoja semže takoj vedel, da bosta težko izpolnjena, saj je seznam, ki sem ga dobil,obsegal na stotine krajev, objektov in lokacij, ki naj bi jih posnel; več kotdvestokilometrska razdalja med Ljubljano, kjer prebivam, in Goričkimpa tudi ni omogočala ujeti najboljših trenutkov za snemanje. Predvsempa me je skrbelo, ali bom uspel vzpostaviti tisti pristni, intimni odnoss pokrajino, izvleči iz nje najboljše, kar ponuja, in jo predstaviti bralcemtako, kot si zasluži.A moj strah je bil pri tem zadnjem povsem odveč. Že prvič naju je obas Cvetko, ki me je spremljala skoraj na vseh obiskih in je bila izjemnapomočnica in spodbujevalka, Goričko povsem očaralo, saj sva ga tokratgledala z drugačnimi očmi. Z vsakim gričem, ki sva ga prevozila, z vsakimnovim pogledom, ki se nama je odprl, sva se bolj in bolj zaljubilav to mehko valovito pokrajino, prekrito z cikcakasto razporejenimiraznobarvnimi krpami polj, travnikov, vinogradov in gozdov. Motivi,predvsem tisti nenapisani na seznamih, ki sem jih dobil, so se ponujaliskoraj na vsakem koraku – čudovite panorame, chiaroscuro polj intravnikov, bleščečega rumenila ogrščice in globoke modrine neba, pasvetlobe v prekrasnih bukovih gozdovih, visoke, v vetru mehko valujočetrave, modriša v žitnem polju, z gozdovi obdanih jezer, starih, a šeohranjenih mlinov z mehanizmi, izdelanimi iz lesa, neizmerne lepotejesenskih barv, črno-bele romantike z drobno snežno odejo prekritihvinogradov ...Kako hudo nama je bilo, da sva na kratkih, v glavnem enodnevnihobiskih, drvela od ene postavke na seznamu do druge, ne da bi lahko vzbranosti in brez časovnega pritiska uživala vso to lepoto. Žal sta se vprecejšnji meri uresničila oba prva pomisleka – čas in svetloba. Prvega jebilo odločno premalo, svetloba pa – kakršna je bila, tako sem izkoristil.Saj ne, da bi bil nezadovoljen s tem, kar sem naredil, vem pa, da bi lahkoše bolje.Goričko, ta zeleni otok presahlega morja, je še tam, prelep in vabeč, ins Cvetko se bova tja še vračala, a takrat za najino dušo, brez pritiska časain seznamov. Le tako bova lahko v polni meri uživala v lepoti in spokojnimehkobi njegovih gričev, ovitih v jutranjo svetlobo sonca, dvigajočegase nekje tam, kjer to morje še ni do kraja presahnilo.Tam spodaj je bil pogled čist,okoli se je bočilo neizmerno nebo, prekokaterega so počasi pluli beli oblaki ...

{ Goričko }( 49 )

{ Goričko }( 50 )A Green Islandin a Dried-up SeaText and Photography: Miško KranjecAlthough my family is from Prekmurje, my earliestchildhood memories of the region are not the happiest. Iwas born in Ljubljana, a child of the city, but during everyschool holiday my father would take me with him to VelikaPolana for two or three weeks. And while he was busy writing one of hisnovels, setting off on a hunting or fishing expedition, or chatting withold schoolmates and childhood friends over a glass of jurka or klintonmade with grapes from the trellis by the house, I was more or less left tomyself and my own ingenuity. This was a time when oil lamps were stillused for lighting, and on the rare occasions that a car drove through thevillage people would talk about it for a week. It is understandable, then,that to the children of Polana I seemed almost as strange and alien as alittle green man from space, while for my part I could hardly understanda word that they said. It is hardly surprising that I quickly got fed upwith my compulsory holidays in Prekmurje and longed to be back homein Ljubljana. Prekmurje grew more abhorrent to me with every year thatpassed – but it would not always be like this.

{ Goričko }( 51 )

{ Goričko }( 52 )Everything changed when, many years later, on one of my trips to theregion, I met Cvetka, the woman of my life. It was as though I had puton a pair of glasses and suddenly saw everything differently and in acompletely new light. That was also when I began to get more seriouslyinvolved in photography, and Prekmurje, with its good, open-heartedpeople, its woods and wetlands, its thatched houses, the river Mura, anda plain extending to a horizon uninterrupted by mountains, became myfavourite place to seek out photographic experiences.I say that no mountain disfigures the Prekmurje horizon, but thisdoes not mean that it is flat everywhere you turn. In the north thelandscape wrinkles and climbs, as just beyond the road running fromMoravci to Lendava the plain gives way to low hills that extend as faras the Austrian and Hungarian borders. Those of us from the flatterparts of Prekmurje never wholeheartedly embraced Goričko (the nameliterally means “hill region”). The people who lived there were differentsomehow, and even the dialect they spoke was not the same. I am not areligious person but there is no doubt that faith also had something todo with it, since the people of Ravensko (“the flatlands”) and Markovskowere Roman Catholics, while the people up there were Protestants.So my visits and photography trips did not often take me among thehills of Goričko, and when they did I felt somehow ill at ease. Down belowthe view was pure, the infinite sky arching all around, with white cloudssailing slowly across it – and even if the clouds were black and lightningflashed menacingly from them, you always had plenty of warning of whatwas coming. It was also difficult to get lost, because the bell towers of thevillage churches, jutting up into the sky, were visible for miles around.One day, just over four years ago, I got a phone call. The voice at theother end of the line belonged to Anton Vratuša, a prominent Slovenepolitician of many years’ standing, a great Prekmurec at heart and oneof the founders of the Dr Šiftar Foundation in Petanjci. He told me thatthe Foundation was preparing a guide to the Goričko region, which in2003 had been designated a nature park and protected landscape area bythe national government, and that he would really like me to take thephotographs for this guide.I was honoured by this demonstration of confidence in my abilities,but even so I had to think about it. A good landscape photograph needsat least three things: time, suitable (or preferably outstanding) light andweather conditions, and an appropriately personal relationship withthe landscape in question. Regarding the first two of these conditions, Iimmediately knew that it would be difficult to meet them, since the listI had been given ran to hundreds of localities, buildings and locationsthat I was supposed to photograph, while the distance of more than 200kilometres that separated Ljubljana, where I live, from Goričko made itimpossible to catch the best moments for shooting photographs. Aboveall, however, I was concerned about whether I would be able to establishthat genuine, intimate relationship with the landscape, to draw outfrom it the best that it has to offer, and present it to the readers of theguide in the manner that it deserves.As it turned out, my fears in this respect proved to be entirely unfounded.On our very first visit, Cvetka and I (she accompanied me onalmost all my visits and provided me with fantastic assistance andencouragement) fell entirely under Goričko’s spell, since now we wereseeing it with different eyes. With every hill we drove over, with everynew view that opened up before us, we fell more and more in love withthis softly undulating landscape covered with the zigzag pattern of avaricoloured patchwork of fields, meadows, vineyards and forests. Subjectsfor photographs – particularly ones that did not appear on the listI had been given – offered themselves at almost every step: wonderfulpanoramas, the chiaroscuro of fields and meadows, the dazzling yellowof the rape fields and the deep blue of the sky, the light in the wonderfulbeech forests, the tall grasses waving gently in the breeze, the cornflowersgrowing in the fields of grain, the tree-fringed lakes, the old mills,carefully preserved with their original wooden machinery, the bound-

Down below the view was pure,the infinite sky arching all around, withwhite clouds sailing slowly across it ...less beauty of autumn colours and the black-and-white romance of vineyardscovered with a fine blanket of snow.How terrible it was for us, on our brief visits, most of them only lastinga single day, to have to rush from one item on the list to the next withoutbeing able to enjoy all this beauty without distraction and the pressureof time. Unfortunately, my first two reservations – those regarding timeand light – proved to be largely justified. There was decidedly too little ofthe former. As for the light, I made the best of it, such as it was. It is notthat I am dissatisfied with my work, but I know that I could do better.Goričko, this green island of a dried-up sea, is still there, beautifuland inviting, and Cvetka and I will return there, but this time for ourown benefit, without the pressure of time and lists. Only in this waywill we be able to enjoy in full measure the beauty and tranquil softnessof its hills swathed in the light of the morning sun rising up somewhereover there where the sea has still not dried up completely.A( 53 )

Rudarjenje nekočČas je,da pade meja( 54 )tudi pod zemljo

Pred kratkim sem z alpinističnima kolegomaraziskoval stene nad idilično vasico Log podMangartom in v neki grapi visoko nad gozdnomejo naletel na približno meter krat dva velike železneostanke nečesa. Le kdo bi tako težko reč nosil sem gor,smo tuhtali in jo skušali izkopati iz grušča. In ko namje to uspelo, smo ugotovili, da gre najbrž za ostankeletalskega rezervoarja ameriškega bombnika iz drugesvetovne vojne. Napisi v angleščini so se še dali prebrati.Verjetno ga je odvrgel, ko se je vračal z napada na rajh.( 55 )Besedilo: Tadej Golob Fotografije: Rafael Marn

{ Rudarjenje nekoč }( 56 )Zgodovina na kupuDvomim, da je še kje košček Slovenije s toliko zgodovine, kot je premoreta njen skrajni severozahodni del. Že pred mejnim prehodom zItalijo na Predelu te pozdravijo ostanki topniške avstroogrske baterije,ki je nekoč merila na Nevejsko sedlo. Po nekaterih italijanskih virih najbi prav iz nje izstrelili prvo topovsko kroglo na soški fronti. (V dokaz, dazgodovina ni mrtva, jo krasi svež grafit 'Ein Tirol'.) Nekaj metrov naprejstojita opuščeni carinarnici na italijanski in slovenski strani pa kmaluza njima umirajoči lev in ostanki trdnjave Predel. V njej so maja 1809 ponekajdnevni bitki s premočnimi Francozi v danes že pozabljeni vojnimed Francijo in Avstrijo padli skoraj vsi njeni branilci skupaj s poveljnikom,inženirskim stotnikom Johannom Hermannom von Hermannsdorfom,ki jo je tudi zgradil. Dva, tri ovinke naprej po spuščajoči se cestinaletimo na nov most čez hudourniško strugo Predelice, po kateri jejeseni 2000 prihrumel zemeljski plaz, odnesel stari most, na svoji rušilnipoti razdejal Log pod Mangartom in pod seboj pokončal sedem ljudi.A še preden nas cesta pripelje v ta na pogled idilični kraj med gorami, jetreba skozi Strmec, mimo spomenika padlim, ustreljenim domačinom,ki so jih pobili esesovci kot povračilo za partizanski napad na rudniksvinca in cinka v Rablju in na vojaško enoto, ki je zadevo preiskovala.In ko smo v Logu in ko govorimo o zgodovini, moramo omeniti še pokopališčeiz prve svetovne vojne in stare fotografije džamije, ki je nekoč,med to vojno, stala v tem za mošejo popolnoma edinstvenem kraju –edina kadarkoli v Sloveniji. Za nami je vsega šest kilometrov poti.Kot lahko vidite, je zgodovina, predvsem 'uvožena', tukajšnjim ljudem,pa tudi tistim, ki so jo zanesli sem od drugod, prinesla samo slabo, trpljenjein pogubo. Obstaja pa svetla izjema, pomnik na nekaj, kar je kraje, kiležijo na svoji strani treh bližnjih meja, povezovalo in jim prinašalo kruh.Trd in nevaren, a vseeno kruh. Če boste pri majhnem obeležju sv. Barbare,ki stoji med Spodnjim in Zgornjim Logom, zavili na stransko cestoin po njej peljali kakšnih sto metrov, boste naleteli na vagončke in lokomotivo,takoj za njimi pa na vhod v predor, v Štoln, kot so mu rekli (ponemški besedi za predor); po njem so vozili rudarje do rudnika v Rablju, vkaterem je delalo veliko Slovencev, najprej z Avstrijci, potem pa, ko so tiodšli in je Rabelj padel pod Italijo, z italijanskimi kolegi.Rudnik v RabljuČe se s Predela spustimo na drugo stran od opisane, kmalu naletimona Rabelj, po italijansko Cave del Predil, mestece, ki s svojimi nekajnadstropnimizgradbami nekako ne sodi v osrčje alpske pokrajine. Ni trebabiti prav posebej pameten, da izveš, zakaj so tam. Na severozahodnemobrobju vasice z mestno podobo se v strmine Kraljeve špice zažira ranadnevnega kopa nekdanjega rudnika svinca in cinka. Pod njo stojijo rudniškezgradbe in pod njimi so do globine 550 metrov do zadnjega, 17.obzorja segli rudarji v iskanju srebrnih svinčevih in rumenih cinkovihžil, ki v nasprotju s tistimi v rudnikih premoga ne ležijo vodoravno, pačpa bolj ali manj navpično.Natančnega datuma prvega rudarjenja v tej krajih ne ve nihče. Ponekaterih legendah naj bi tukaj prvi kopali že Rimljani, prvi pisni viri,ki omenjajo rudarjenje v Rablju, obstajajo šele tisoč let po propadu rimskegaimperija, ko je bamberški škof Anton dodelil Trbižanom in Bovčanompisno dovoljenje za izkoriščanje rude na tem področju. Do začetka18. stoletja so jo kopali na površju, potem pa začeli riti tudi pod zemljo.Prodiranje v globino je bilo nevarno in zahtevno predvsem zaradi vode,ki se je pojavljala v vedno večjih količinah in v rudnik pronicala s površja,pa tudi iz globin, ujeta med skalovjem, in je pri vrtanju udarjalana plano. Ker v 18. in 19. stoletju niso imeli dovolj močnih črpalk, da birudnik osušili, so se morali spomniti druge rešitve. In so jo našli.ŠtolnRabelj se nahaja na nadmorski višini 900 m, Log pod Mangartom patam, kjer danes leži vhod v predor, na višini 626 m. Če bi iz rudnika doLoga izvrtali predor, bi voda preprosto odtekla, so razmišljali in se leta1895 lotili dela. Še prej se je morala rudniška uprava dogovoriti z občinov Logu pod Mangartom o dovoljenju za predor in odvod vode v potokRojo na loški strani. Občina je pristala, toda s pogojem, da bodo predorizvrtali Ložani in Strmčani, od katerih so se mnogi potem zaposlili vrudniku.Priprave na vrtanje so trajale do leta 1899, ko so se dela začela. Šest letje minilo, da je bil predor končan, čeprav je bil sam preboj narejen že leta1902. A takrat so bile predvidene mere predora manjše, potem pa je, tudiali predvsem zaradi načrtov generalštaba avstroogrske vojske, Štolnzačel dobivati današnjo podobo. »Predor, tak, kakršen je zdaj, ni bilnarejen zaradi odvajanja vode, ampak predvsem zaradi vojske,« razlagaJaka Vadnjal, upokojeni zdravnik iz Zagorja pri Pivki, ki je še kot študentmedicine spoznal dekle iz Loga in si kasneje z njo, ženo, postavil vikend,kjer živi zadnjih petnajst let. »Kaj pa naj delam v Kranju?« kjer je delal vzdravstvenem domu, pravi, »tam bi si samo kravžljal živce.« In ker ga jevedno zanimala zgodovina Primorske, se je lotil preučevanja rudnika inŠtolna, o katerem je ob njegovi stoletnici napisal zelo informativno brošuro.Bil je tudi prvi, ki je ugotovil, koliko avstrijskih vojakov in opremeje šlo v prvi svetovni vojni skozi rudnik na fronto. »Zaradi tega sem jihtudi že slišal,« priznava, »tako od Italijanov kot Avstrijcev, ki niso mogliprenesti, da bi nek laik ugotovil to, česar sami niso znali. Prav zadnjič jebil tukaj pri meni neki profesor iz Celovca, ki je dvomil o mojih dognanjih,in sem mu rekel: Če rudarska poročila lažejo, potem sem lagal tudijaz. O prvi svetovni vojni je danes napisanega toliko, da se bog usmili,ampak nihče nima podatkov o prevozu. Sam sem pa razmišljal, da bomdo podatkov prišel tam, kjer mora biti narejen obračun vojne. V rudnikuso zelo natančno zapisali vsakega vojaka in vsako tono tovora, ker je vseto morala vojska tudi plačati.« In po njegovih podatkih je šlo skozi Štolnv letih 1915 do 1917 impresivnih 33.385 vlakov s 400.157 vagončki, ki soprepeljali na bojišče 446.890 vojakov.A vsaka vojna se nekoč vendarle neha. Tako se je tudi prva svetovna inpredor je spet služil odvodnjavanju ter prevozu rudarjev na delo. Vse doleta 1970, ko ga je rudniška uprava zaprla, saj je postal avtobusni prevozčez Predel cenejši od prevoza z ozkotirno železnico, ki jo je bilo treba nenehnovzdrževati. Občasno, ko je bila cesta pozimi zaradi snega zaprta,so predor in železnico spet usposobili.

( 57 )Slovenci v rudnikuOd številnih slovenskih rudarjev, ki so delali v Rablju, je danes vLogu pod Mangartom živih le še nekaj. Eden od njih je Anton Mavrič, podomače Tonči z Vrha. Tam se je zaposlil v sedemdesetih in vztrajal vsedo zaprtja rudnika. Bil je tudi eden tistih, ki so v protest proti zaprtjuleta 1991 za sedemnajst dni ostali v jami in na ta način izsilili zaposlitevin prihodnost rudarjev, ki se niso mogli upokojiti. Pred tem je bilTonči oskrbnik koče na Mangartskem sedlu, kjer so se pripravljali našitelovadci na olimpijske igre v Mehiki leta 1968. Koča namreč stoji nanadmorski višini skoraj 2000 m, kar je primerljivo z glavnim mehiškimmestom, pa so Miru Cerarju in kolegom kar tja gor pripeljali orodja in jihrazpostavili okrog koče, ker notri pač ni bilo dovolj prostora. »Še danesse kdaj dobimo,« pravi Tonči.V rudniku je delal kot nakladač. Odkopano rudo je nalagal na vagončke– v dveh izmenah, tretja je bila redka, ker so morali biti previdnizaradi miniranja, saj bi se lahko (in se večkrat tudi je) kje kaj podrlo.Ruda se je nahajala v žilah, ki pa so bile, se spominja, sto, dvesto, tristo,tudi štiristo metrov dolge, široke pa vseh sort: od dvajset centimetrovpa tudi do dveh, recimo treh metrov. »In te rude je še,« doda, »pravijo,da so njene korenine še dosti nižje, saj so sondirali, ampak se je ni večsplačalo kopati zaradi dnevnih kopov iz Amerike in od drugod, pa tudizato, ker je plastika izpodrinila svinec in cink.« Kljub temu da je bilodelo naporno in nevarno – pri delu je letno v povprečju umrl en rudar,od katerih je bilo samo v zadnjih desetletjih rudnikovega obratovanjakakšnih trideset slovenskih –, ga je imel Tonči rad. »Raje sem bil ’not’kot zunaj,« pove z nasmeškom, »ker zunaj si bil na očeh – na režiji, tamso se držali ti šefi, da so kontrolirali delavce. V jami si imel pa mir. Notrismo pa našli tudi kaj drugega kot samo svinec in cink. Luknje, velike zabajto, in pa manjše, dva krat dva metra, obdane s kristali.«Rudnik je prenehal z delom 30. junija 1991. Njegov manjši del je danesna voljo za 40-minutni ogled, njegov prav tako zanimivi del, skoraj petkilometrskiŠtoln, pa zaprt z obeh strani. S treh pravzaprav. Na njegovisredi, natančneje 2695 metrov od izhoda iz rova v Logu, stojijo debelakovinska vrata, ki so jih tja po partizanskih sabotažah postavili Nemcimed drugo svetovno vojno, po njej pa so služila tudi kot svojevrstnapodzemna pregrada med dvema državama in sistemoma, med Italijo inJugoslavijo. Nad zemljo so ovire že padle, in če je soditi po podpisu pismao nameri med bovškim in trbiškim županom o ureditvi Štolna v turističnenamene, naj bi nekoč padla tudi ta pod njo. Ne bo preprosto inne poceni, a čas bi že bil, da se 'železna zavesa' odstrani tudi pod zemljo.{ Rudarjenje nekoč }

{ Mining in the Olden Days }Time for theUndergroundBorder toCome DownText: Tadej Golob Photography: Rafael Marn( 58 )Not long ago I was exploring the rock faces above theidyllic little village of Log pod Mangartom with two fellowclimbers when, in a ravine far above the tree line, I cameacross the iron remains of something measuring roughly one metre bytwo. Who would have brought something as heavy as this all the wayup here, we wondered, as we tried to dig it out of the scree. Once we hadsucceeded, we realised that it was probably the remains of a fuel tankfrom a US bomber from the Second World War. The English words on itwere still legible. The pilot probably jettisoned it on his way back froman attack on the Reich.Heaps of historyI doubt that there is any piece of Slovenia with as much history asthis, its far north-western corner. Even before the border crossing intoItaly, through the Predel/Predil Pass you are greeted by the remains ofan Austro-Hungarian artillery battery that once pointed at the SellaNevea. According to some Italian sources it was from here that the firstshell was fired on the Isonzo Front. (And as if to prove that history isnot dead, it is adorned by fresh graffiti reading “Ein Tirol”.) A few metresfurther on stand the abandoned customs houses on the Italianand Slovenian sides of the border and, just behind them, a monumentadorned with a bronze statue of a dying lion and the remains of thePredel fortress. It was here that in May 1809, following a several-daybattle with superior French forces in the now-forgotten war betweenFrance and Austria, almost all the defenders of the fortress fell, togetherwith their commanding officer, Engineer Captain Johann Hermann vonHermannsdorf, who was also the fortress’s builder. Two or three bendsfurther down the descending road we come across the new bridge overthe torrential Predelica stream. In autumn 2000 an avalanche swept theold bridge away, caused great destruction in Log pod Mangartom andclaimed seven lives. But before the road brings us to this seeminglyidyllic village among the mountains, we have to pass through Strmec,past the memorial to the villagers shot by the SS as a reprisal for thepartisan attack on the lead and zinc mine in Rabelj and the militaryunit that was sent to investigate the attack. And while we are in Log andtalking about history, we should also mention the First World War cemeteryand the old photographs of the mosque, built during that samewar, that once stood in this utterly unique location for a mosque, theonly one anywhere in Slovenia. Behind us is a six-kilometre hike.As you can see, history, particularly “imported” history, brought onlyevil, suffering and ruin to the people of these parts – and also to thosewho brought it here from elsewhere. There is, however, one shiningexception, a monument to something that linked the places lying eachon their own side of the three nearby borders and provided them witha livelihood. Difficult and dangerous, but still a livelihood. If you turnoff the main road by the little statue of St Barbara that stands betweenSpodnji (Lower) and Zgornji (Upper) Log and follow the side road forabout 100 metres, you will see some little wagons and locomotive and,just beyond them, the entrance to a tunnel, or “Štoln” as it was known(a corruption of the German word Stollen, meaning “tunnel”), alongwhich miners were transported to the mine in Rabelj, where manySlovenians worked, at first alongside Austrians and then, after Rabeljbecame part of Italy and the Austrians left, alongside Italians.The Rabelj mineIf you come down from Predel on the opposite side from the one wehave just described, you soon come to Rabelj, or Cave del Predil to giveit its Italian name, a little town with buildings several storeys highthat sits somewhat incongruously in the heart of the Alpine landscape.It does not take much intelligence to work out why the buildings arethere. At the north-western edge of this oddly urban village, the woundof the old open-pit lead and zinc mine is gouged into the steep slopes ofMonte Re. Below it stand the mine buildings and below them, down toa depth of 550 metres, to the last horizon, the 17th, miners dug their wayin search of silver veins of lead and yellow veins of zinc which, unlikecoal seams, do not lie horizontally but more or less vertically.

{ Mining in the olden days }( 59 )

{ Mining }No one knows the exact date when mining first began in these parts.According to some legends it was the Romans who were the first toexcavate here. The first written records to mention mining in Rabelj donot appear until a thousand years after the fall of the Roman Empire,when Johann Philipp Anton von Frankenstein, Prince-Bishop of Bamberg,granted the people of Tarvisio and Bovec written permission to exploitthe ore in this area. Until the beginning of the 18th century ore wasmined on the surface, after which they began to burrow underground.Penetrating deep underground was difficult and dangerous, particularlybecause of the water that appeared in ever greater quantities and trickledinto the mine from the surface, but also from down below, where itwas trapped between rocks and released by the drilling. Since in the 18thand 19th centuries there were no pumps powerful enough to dry out themine, another solution had to be found. And found it was.Štoln( 60 )Rabelj lies at a height of 900 metres above sea level, while Log podMangartom, where the entrance to the tunnel lies today, is at 626 metres.It was conjectured that if a tunnel was bored from the mine to Log,the water would simply drain away. Work began in 1895. Before this themanagers of the mine had to reach an agreement with the municipalauthorities in Log pod Mangartom about permits for the tunnel and fordraining the water into the Roja stream on the Log side. The municipalityagreed, but on condition that the tunnel was built by men from Logand Strmec, many of whom were subsequently employed in the mine.Preparations for the tunnel took until 1899, and then the work finallybegan. Six years would pass before the tunnel was complete, althoughthe breakthrough itself occurred in 1902. At that time, however, theplanned dimensions of the tunnel were smaller. Later, in part or aboveall because of the plans of the general staff of the Austro-Hungarianarmy, Štoln began to take on its present appearance. “The tunnel as itexists today was not built to drain water from the mine but, first andforemost, because of the army,” explains Jaka Vadnjal, a retired doctorfrom Zagorje, near Pivka, who met a girl from Log when he was still amedical student and eventually married her. Later, he and his wife builtthe weekend cottage in Log where they have been living for the last 15years. “What am I supposed to do in Kranj?” – where he worked in thehealth centre – he asks. “I would just get irritable.” And since he hasalways been interested in the history of Primorska, he started studyingthe mine and Štoln, about which he wrote an extremely informativebrochure to coincide with its centenary. He was also the first person toascertain how many Austrian soldiers and how much equipment camethrough the mine to the front during the First World War. “That hasalready earned me plenty of criticism,” he admits, “from both Italiansand Austrians, who couldn’t stand the fact that a layman had discoveredwhat they had been unable to. Recently I was visited by a professorfrom Klagenfurt who challenged my findings and I said to him: if themine reports contain untruths, then I have told untruths too. Goodnessknows a great deal has been written about the First World War, but noone has any information about the transport operations. It occurred tome that I would find the information wherever the war accounts weredrawn up. The mines authority kept a very careful record of every soldierand every tonne of freight, because the army also had to pay for allof this.” According to Dr Vadnjal’s data, an impressive 33,385 trains consistingof 400,157 wagons passed through Štoln between 1915 and 1917,and carried 446,890 soldiers to the front.But every war ends eventually. After the First World War, the tunnelonce again served to drain the mine and to transport miners to work.Right up until 1970, when it was closed by the mines authority becausebus transport over the Predel Pass had become cheaper than transportvia the narrow-gauge railway, which was in constant need of maintenance.Occasionally, when the road was blocked by snow in winter, thetunnel and railway were brought back into service.Slovenians in the mineOf the many Slovenian miners who worked in Rabelj, there are onlya few left today in Log pod Mangartom. One of them is Anton Mavrič,known locally as Tonči, who began work in the mine in the 1970s andstayed there right up until its closure. He was also one of the men whoin 1991 stayed in the pit for 17 days in protest at the closure of the mineand in this way forced the mines authority to guarantee employment

( 61 )and a future for those miners who were unable to take retirement. Beforethat, Tonči was the custodian of the mountain hut on MangartskoSedlo, where the Yugoslav gymnasts trained in preparation for the1968 Olympic Games in Mexico. The hut stands at an altitude of almost2,000 metres above sea level, which is more or less the same altitude asMexico City, so they transported the apparatus for [champion gymnast]Miroslav Cerar and his teammates all the way up the mountain and arrangedit around the hut – because there was not enough room inside.“We still meet up from time to time today,” says Tonči.He worked in the mine as a loader, loading the excavated ore ontowagons, in two shifts. A third shift was rare, because blasting madecaution necessary, and collapses could (and often did) occur. The orewas located in veins, and these veins, remembers Tonči were a hundred,two hundred, three hundred, even four hundred metres long and ofmany different widths. From 20 centimetres up to two or even three metres.“There is still ore down there,” he adds. “They say that its roots aremuch deeper – they have sent probes down – but it was no longer worthmining it because of open-pit mines in America and elsewhere, and alsobecause plastic has taken the place of lead and zinc.” Despite the factthat the work was difficult and dangerous – on average one miner diedevery year, with some 30 Slovenian miners dying in the last decades ofthe mine’s operation alone – Tonči liked it. “I preferred to be inside thanoutside,” says Tonči with a smile, “because outside you were always inview. The foremen sat up in the office and kept an eye on the workers.Down in the pit, though, they left you in peace. It wasn’t only lead andzinc that we used to find down there. Holes as big as a house, and smallerones, two metres by two metres, surrounded by crystals.”The mine ceased operating on 30 June 1991 but a small section of it istoday open to visitors. A tour takes 40 minutes. But the most interestingsection, the almost five-kilometre tunnel known as Štoln, is sealedat both ends. At three ends, actually. In the middle of the tunnel, atexactly 2,695 metres from the tunnel entrance in Log, stands a stoutmetal door that was put there by the Germans during the Second WorldWar following sabotage attacks by partisans. After the war it served asa unique underground barrier between Italy and Yugoslavia, two countrieswith two different forms of government. Above the ground thebarriers have already fallen, and judging from the letter of intent signedby the mayors of Bovec and Tarvisio with regard to the development ofŠtoln for the purposes of tourism, this underground barrier is about tofall as well. It will not be simple or cheap, but the time has come to removethe “Iron Curtain” below the ground.A

( 62 )Ljubezen v kamnu

Pripoved»podpečana«Besedilo in fotografije: Igor DrnovšekApnenec iz Podpeči pri Ljubljani imasvojo zgodbo: dolgo in razburljivo.Navsezadnje njegovih 210 milijonov letpredstavlja častitljivo starost tudi na geološkemkoledarju, pri katerem sicer človek, ki ga neuporablja pogosto, dobi občutek, da so milijoni letvredni še manj od milijonov somalijskega šilinga,ki ga je okužil virus inflacije.Podpečan je redkobeseden – spregovori geologom, nagovarjaumetnike. Prvim opisuje prostor nastanka in svoje dolgo potovanjes pomikanjem litosferske plošče iz tropskega v zmernipas. Rojeval se je na morskem dnu toplega tropskega morja.Odloženo blato, v katerega se brez reda pomešajo ostanki morskegaživlja, se v primežu časovnih prostranstev predrugači v temen kamen ssvetlim kalcitnim okrasjem. Dolge školjke z dvema debelima lupinamaso raziskovalci izumrlih svetov poimenovali »lithiotis«. Beli pramenilitiotid se v kamnu med seboj valovito prepletajo in mehčajo njegovotrdo podobo, kot da bi z njimi v podpečanu še naprej utripalo morje.Morda so bili Rimljani prvi, ki so ta kamen oblikovali po svojih predstavah.Najdbe pričajo, da so iz njega klesali nagrobne stele in plošče,votivne oltarje in preproste mejnike. V bližini kamnoloma v Podpeči sona Ljubljanici zgradili rečno pristanišče, od koder so bloke podpečanavozili tudi v Emono. S propadom njihovega imperija za dolgo zamre tudikamnoseška dejavnost, kamnolom pa ponovno obudijo šele graditeljiželezniške proge, ki so za nasutje mokrotnih barjanskih tal potrebovaligore kamnitega drobirja iz neposredne bližine. Ko pa so oživele kamnoseškedelavnice v Ljubljani in okolici, je apnenec iz Podpeči doživel svojčas razcveta. Arhitektove ideje je dleto v rokah kamnoseških mojstrovprelilo v pesem kamna. V harmonijo, ki nastaja v vseh prostorih skladnihoblik. Mojster Jože Plečnik je s podpečanom ustvaril svoja najlepšadela v Ljubljani.Umetnik in kamen:zlitje duha in materijeŽe v prvem večjem objektu, ki je bil v Ljubljani zgrajen po Plečnikovihnačrtih, prevladuje podpeški apnenec. Cerkev Frančiška Asiškega jasnonakazuje poreklo mojstrovih vzorov. Svetloba, ki prihaja v notranjostskozi velika okna, in raven, lesen strop, spominjata na arhitekturostarokrščanskih bazilik in prostor napolnita z neko starosvetnoenergijo, ki ji je tudi profanost domača. Ker je glavni oltar pomaknjennekoliko proti sredini cerkve, so gradnjo za nekaj časa celo ustavili,saj naj bi to ne ustrezalo krščanski tradiciji. K sreči so cerkev kasnejedokončali in oltar predstavlja gotovo eno od najveličastnejših hvalnicpodpečanu. Vzvišeno, poduhovljenemu prostoru primerno resnobnočrnino prepredajo elegantne linije kalcitnih žil v kontrastni belini.Vsepovsod pa še dodatki školjk, naključno razporejenih v temni gmotiapnenca – nekatere cele, ohranjene, druge razbite na koščke, v kaosunaravnih sil prenesene na morsko odlagališče življenja. In z igro naraveprenesene na žrtvenik življenja.Tudi v največji slovenski Plečnikovi mojstrovini, Narodni inuniverzitetni knjižnici, se razkošno razkazuje podpečan. Njegovaprisotnost v vhodnem delu še dodatno prispeva ktemačnosti prostora. Ko se po kamniti stopniščni»preprogi« dvigujemo v tempelj učenosti, pa naspostopoma oblije svetloba, ki napolnjuje preddverje( 63 )

{ Ljubezen v kamnu }čitalnice. Tako kot nam znanje iz hrama učenosti vsakodnevnorazsvetljuje temo našega neznanja in nevednosti. Med številnimikamnitimi elementi notranjosti knjižnice še posebej izstopajo kamnitepolice in njihovi žlebljeni nosilni stebri, ki jih je narava prav razsipnoobdarila s fosilnimi ostanki litiotidnih školjk, ki ponekod s svojimigosto posejanimi belimi prameni puščajo le malo prostora temeljničrnini podpečana.Kamnolom v Podpeči se počasi zarašča. Pred dvema desetletjema jebil razglašen za naravni spomenik, saj so iz njegovih kamnitih blokovzrasli številni presežki slovenske oblikovne dediščine. Arhitekt JožePlečnik je svojo ljubezen prenesel tudi v kamen, ki s tem živi naprej –tako kot školjke v podpečanu, ki nas danes nagovarjajo glasneje kot začasa življenja.( 64 )The Tale ofPodpečanText and Photography: Igor DrnovšekThe limestone from Podpeč near Ljubljana has its ownstory – a long and turbulent one. After all, its life of 210million years so far represents a venerable age, even onthe geological calendar, although for those of us not in thehabit of using that calendar regularly, somehow millions of years seemworth less than millions of inflation-afflicted Somali shillings. ThePodpečan limestone is taciturn, and speaks to geologists and artists. Tothe former it describes its area of origin and its long journey of shiftinglithospheric plates from the tropical to the temperate zone. It was bornon the bed of a warm tropical sea. Deposited mud, into which comes arandom mix of marine remains, metamorphoses in the slow vice gripof time into a dark stone with light calcite accents. The long molluscswith two thick shells have been named “lithiotids” by researchers oflost worlds. The white prongs of lithotids roil and interweave in therock, softening its hard image, as if the sea was still swelling throughthem in the Podpečan stone. It may have been the Romans who werethe first to apply their imagination to shaping this stone. Finds indicatethat they hewed from it gravestones and slabs, votive altars and simpleboundary markers. Close to the quarry at Podpeč they built a river wharfon the River Ljubljanica, from which they carried blocks of Podpečan toancient Emona. The collapse of their empire also marked the start of a

( 65 )

{ Love in Stone }long dormancy for the local quarry, and quarrying was only revived bythe railway builders, who needed mountains of locally available rock aggregateto lay as a roadbed through the soggy wetlands. Then when thestonemason workshops were revived in Ljubljana and the surroundingarea, the limestone of Podpeč came into its own golden age. Throughthe chisels of the master stonemasons, the concepts of architects werefused into songs of stone. Into a harmony that emerges in all spacesof concordant forms. The master architect Jože Plečnik used Podpečanstone to create his finest work in Ljubljana.Artist and stone:a fusion of spirit and material( 66 )In the very first major structure built in Ljubljana to Plečnik’s plans,Podpeč limestone predominates. The Church of St. Francis of Assisiclearly indicates the source of the patterns used by the master. The lightentering the interior through the large windows and flat, wooden ceilingbrings to mind the architecture of early Christian basilicas and fillsthe space with a kind of old-world energy for which the profane is alsofamiliar. Since the main altar is slightly shifted towards the centre ofthe church, construction was even halted for a time, since this supposedlywent against Christian tradition. Fortunately the church was latercompleted, and the altar represents without doubt one of the most magnificentpaeans to Podpečan. The exalted, grave blackness, well suitedto this sanctified space, is interwoven with the elegant lines of calciteveins in contrasting white. Everywhere there are the remnants of shells,scattered randomly through the dark mass of limestone – some stillentire and preserved, others shattered and carried by the chaos of naturalforces to the marine dumping ground of life. And through a trick ofnature, transformed into a sacrificial stone of life.And in Plečnik’s greatest Slovenian masterpiece, the National andUniversity Library, Podpečan stone is displayed in all its finery. Itspresence in the entrance area enhances the darkness of the space. Aswe ascend the stone “carpet” of steps to the temple of learning, we aregradually bathed in light that fills the reading-room lobby. Just as everyday knowledge from the shrine of learning illuminates the darknessof our ignorance. Particularly prominent among the numerous stoneelements of the library’s interior are the stone shelves and their flutedbearing pillars, which nature has quite extravagantly adorned withfossils of lithiotid molluscs, and in places their dense weave of whiteextrusions leave little space for the basic black of the Podpečan.The quarry at Podpeč is gradually becoming overgrown. Two yearsago it was declared a natural monument, since its stone blocks hadgiven rise to numerous pinnacles of Slovenia’s design heritage. Thearchitect Plečnik also channelled his love into stone, and in this way itlives on, just like the molluscs in the Podpečan, which speak to us todaylouder than when they were alive.A

( 67 )JOŽE PLEČNIKKako bi lahko obiskali Ljubljano, ne da bi spoznali katero odPlečnikovih mojstrovin? Si predstavljate, da se vrnete iz Barcelonein ne veste, kdo je Gaudi? Ali pa, da vam na primer obogledu Firenc zamolčijo Brunelleschija? Jože Plečnik je dalLjubljani edinstven pečat. Njegov kozmopolitski duh je prav razkošnooplemenitil naše glavno mesto. Plečnikov navdih se je oplajal pri virihklasične arhitekture, njegov ideal je bila brezčasna arhitektura. Svetovljanskookolje Dunaja na prehodu v 20.stol. mu je namenilo izvrstnegaprofesorja. Otto Wagner, utemeljitelj dunajske secesije, mu je med drugimdo mojstrske stopnje izostril čut za soodvisnost oblike in materiala,kar pri Plečniku opazijo številni ocenjevalci njegovega umetniškegaopusa. Bil je eden redkih nekonformističnih umetnikov minulegastoletja. Secesijo je zapustil iz protesta, saj je začetna svetovljanskaodprtost gibanja postajala vse bolj nemško usmerjena. Pokončna innačelna drža pa ga je pravzaprav pripeljala nazaj v domače okolje. V češkiprestolnici je imel Plečnik kot arhitekt praškega gradu sicer idealnedelovne pogoje, a zaradi pohoda funkcionalizma se leta 1921 odloči, dase vrne v Ljubljano.How is it possible to visit Ljubljana without getting upclose to one of Plečnik’s masterpieces? Imagine comingback from Barcelona and not knowing who Gaudi is. Orfor instance touring Florence, and Brunelleschi being kepta secret. Jože Plečnik left a unique mark on Ljubljana. His cosmopolitanspirit ennobled our capital city in truly gorgeous style. Plečnik’sinspiration found sustenance in sources of classical architecture, andhis ideal was timeless architecture. The cosmopolitan environmentof Vienna at the beginning of the 20th century brought him to an outstandingprofessor. Otto Wagner, a founder of the Vienna Secession,honed Plečnik’s feeling for the co-dependence of form and materialto a masterful level, something that has been observed by numerousappraisers of his artistic opus. He was one of the rare non-conformistartists of the past century. He left the Secession in protest, since theinitial cosmopolitan openness of the movement was becoming increasinglyGerman-oriented. His upright and principled stance in factled him back to his native environment. While working as the architectof Prague Castle in the Czech capital, Plečnik did enjoy ideal conditionsfor his work, but, with the rise of functionalism, in 1921 he decided toreturn to Ljubljana.

( 68 )Idrijska čipka

Mesto, ki neskončnebele nitke spreminja včarobno lahkotne čipkeBesedilo: Maja Cimerman Fotografije: Matej Sitar( 69 )pojejo kleklji. »Klopeti-klop-klop,« plešejokleklji med prsti v levo pa v desno pa v levo pa spet nazaj. Prsti jih prekrižajo, zamenjajo,»Klop-klop-klopeti-klopeti-klop-klop-ti-klopeti-klop,«prenesejo. Zabadajo bucike z barvnimi glavicami v modre blazine. Skozi vrata razreda radovednežimolijo glave, starši pritiskajo na sprožilec fotoaparata. Prsti pa vse bolj hitijo v divjem ritmu, otroškeoči so strmo uprte v bele nitke, da se nobena ne zaplete, da se – nikar tega! – ne strga. Le še dvajset minutje časa. Le še dvajset minut lahko postanejo državni prvaki v klekljanju čipk.Čipke so zasedle gimnazijo Jurija Vege v Idriji. Čipke predvhodom, čipke na hodniku, v razstavnem prostoru. V razredihklekljajo otroci za zmago, v telovadnici se med sebojmerijo odrasli. Na hodnikih čakajo obiskovalci, nekateregospe so si v naročje položile klekljarski pribor in klekljajo, da hitrejemine čas. Letošnje tekmovanje je največje v zgodovini, 198 udeležencevposkuša v 45 minutah splesti kar največ kar najlepših čipk.Zdi se, da je visoka udeležba na letošnjem tekmovanju del vzorca,ki se plete okrog idrijske čipke – ta namreč v zadnjih letih doživljapreporod. Še nikdar po prvi svetovni vojni ni zanjo vladalo takšnozanimanje. Ni več zgolj način dodatnega zaslužka, kot je bila nekoč,temveč je postala del identitete regije. Ni več zgolj obrt, ki izdelujenamizne prtičke za stare mame, spet je postala modni dodatek, stvarprestiža. Znane Slovenke in nagrajenke lepotnih tekmovanj pošiljamov svet z oblekami modnih oblikovalk, ki v svoje kreacije vpenjajo delaidrijskih klekljaric. Tujim državnikom podarjamo čipkaste umetninekot protokolarna darila. Čipke so povsod: kot nakit, kot čevlji, celo kotpohištvo.»Klop-klop-klopeti-klopeti-klop.« V sozvočju z otroškim klepetom.»Klopeti-klop-klop.« Majhne glave se sklanjajo nad svoje punkljeokrog velike skupne mize. Njihove nitke so barvne, da lažje ločijo pareklekljev. Pod njihovimi prsti počasi, počasi nastajajo čipkasti kužki,miške, školjke, avtomobili. »Gospa učiteljica, gospa učiteljica, kakogre naprej?« sprašujejo zdaj eni, zdaj drugi. Čipkarstvo je njihov šolskiizbirni predmet, trikrat na teden po dve šolski uri sedijo skupaj za mizoin klekljajo. In klepetajo. Izdelovanje čipke je vedno pomenilo tudipriložnost za druženje, klepetalnico. Starejši otroci pomagajo mlajšim,predse dajo njihov punkelj in jim pokažejo, kako izdelati težje prehode.Učiteljica se smuka med njimi, tukaj nekaj pripomni, tam pomagarazdreti narobe izdelan del. V Idriji in okoliških krajih imajo učiteljicepod svojim okriljem 400 otrok, starih od 6 do 15 let.Prva učiteljica na Idrijski čipkarski šoli je bila Ivana Ferjančič.Idrijčanka se je po čipkarskem izobraževanju na Tirolskem vrnila vrodni kraj, kjer je razvijala nove vzorce čipk, ki predstavljajo temeljdanašnje prepoznavne idrijske čipke. Po posvetu z dunajskimministrstvom je v Idriji leta 1876 ustanovila čipkarsko šolo, kjer jepoučevala tri leta, dokler ni v devetindvajsetemletu starosti po hudi bolezni umrla. Za seboj jepustila številne izvirne tehnike in nov rod učiteljicklekljanja, ki se je oplajal do danes.

{ Idrijska čipka }( 70 )Zgodovina idrijske čipke pa se začne že precej prej. Najverjetneje sprihodom čeških rudarjev na delo v rudnik živega srebra. Njihove ženeso bile vešče klekljanja in so si tako priklekljale dodaten zaslužek.Domača dekleta so se pri njih nagledala tehnik in jim dodala slovenskemotive ter imena. Nastali so rogljički, srčki, kriščevke, gobice …»Klopeti-klop-klop-klopeti-klop,« odmeva po dvorišču graduGewerkenegg. »Klop-klop-klopeti-klop.« Gospa s črnimi lasmi in v črniobleki urno vrti kleklje. Oči ji veselo bliskajo izza velikih črnih očal. Nanjenem punklju so v papirec zapičene bucike, okrog katerih plete zlatenitke. Na mizi ležijo modne revije in klekljarski pribor: kleklji, izstruženi iztrdega lesa, bucike iz nerjavečega jekla, sukanci – zlati, srebrni pa klasičnibeli. Prav pri vhodu so postavljene preproste čipke, ki si jih turisti kupujejoza spomin: srčki, deteljice, podkve in obrisi Slovenije. Teh proda največ,prikima. Za njo velika čipkasta pahljača, na levi in desni steni police, polneobeskov za verižice, pa sponke, uhani, zapestnice. Ponekod so vtkani dragikamni, spet drugje je kakšen ahat ali opal oblečen v prosojno čipko.Lidija Anzelm je ena izmed mnogih izdelovalk čipk, ki ima v Idrijisvoj atelje. V mestu se prodajalnice kar vrstijo. Čipkasti prtički,posteljnina s čipko, nakit, oblačila in modni dodatki kot čipka okrogrobčka obrobljajo glavno ulico. Idrijske oblikovalke lovijo ravnotežjemed ohranjanjem tradicionalne čipke in iskanjem sodobnega izraza ternovih prodajnih niš. Čipkarska šola in čipkarice sodelujejo z modnimioblikovalci, študentkami tekstilstva Univerze v Ljubljani, proizvajalcipohištva. Skupaj si zastavljajo vprašanja, ki potiskajo naprej mejedojemanja tega, kaj je lahko čipka. Kateri material je potrebno uporabitiza čipko, ki bo predstavljala zadnji del sicer usnjenega čevlja? Kako sečipka obnaša z različnimi materiali na večerni obleki? Kako daleč lahkogre oblikovalka, da ostane čipka še vedno enoznačno idrijska? Kakouporabiti čipko na nove, še nikdar videne načine? Spalnice idrijskegaproizvajalca pohištva Iles, denimo, so pravi homage čipkarski tradiciji.Na barvnih svetlečih podlagah se razprostira odtis čipke velikanke,seveda s pripadajočo čipkasto posteljnino vred. Tako se zdi, da vsiskupaj vlečejo za isti klekelj in Idrija se uveljavlja kot edinstveno mesto,mesto, ki vdihava bele nitke in izdihava čarobno lahkotne čipke.»Klopeti-klopeti-klop-klop.« Kot zvočna podlaga. »Klopeti-klopetiklop.«Sivolasa turistka je sedla za punkelj, na katerem je delno izdelanačipka, in se zazrla v projekcijo pred seboj. Prekrižaš, zamenjaš, preneseš.Prekrižaš, zamenjaš, preneseš. Prsti poskušajo počasi izvajati ukaze, kijih ustnice čisto tiho mrmrajo. Vendar se nitka kmalu zaplete. Gospajo razplete in poskusi znova. Prekrižaš, zamenjaš, preneseš. Prstipa zamenjajo, prenesejo, prekrižajo. Njen mož stoji za njo, z rahlimnasmeškom na obrazu kaže na veliko čipko v vitrini poleg njiju insprašuje, kdaj, misli, bo pripravljena splesti takšno. Potem gresta mimorazstavljenih čipk z različnih koncev sveta, mimo oblačil s pridihomčipke, pa ven iz nagrajenega idrijskega muzeja.

( 71 )A TownWhere Infinite WhiteThreads are TransformedInto Lace of a MagicalLightnessText: Maja Cimerman Photography: Matej SItarClop-clop-cloppety-cloppety-clop-clop-ti-cloppety-clopsing the bobbins as they dance between fingers, left andright, left and right again. Fingers cross the bobbins, swapthem round, carry them over. Fingers push pins with colouredheads into blue pillows. The heads of curious onlookers peerround the classroom door; parents take photographs. The fingers movefaster and faster, in a wild rhythm, and the children’s eyes are fixed onthe white threads, making sure that none of them gets tangled, thatnone of them breaks. Only 20 minutes to go. In another 20 minutes theycan become national lacemaking champions.Lace has taken over the buildings of the Gimnazija Jurija Vege in Idrija.There is lace outside the entrance, lace in the corridor, and in theexhibition space. In the classrooms, the children are lacemaking for victory;the adult competitors are in the gym. Visitors wait in the corridors.Some ladies have brought their own lacemaking kits and are workingaway with their bobbins to while away the time. This year’s competitionis the largest in history, with 198 participants attempting to makeas much beautiful lace as possible in 45 minutes.The high participation in this year’s competition is part of a patternthat weaves itself around Idrija lace. In recent years Idrija lace has undergonesomething of a renaissance. Not since the First World War hasthere been so much interest in it. No longer merely a way of earninga little extra money, as it once was, it has become part of the identityof the region. No longer limited to table napkins for grannies, lace hasonce again become a fashion accessory, a thing of prestige. Sloveniasends its celebrities and beauty-contest winners out into the worldwearing dresses by fashion designers who incorporate the work of Idrija’slacemakers into their creations. Foreign dignitaries are presentedwith works of art made of lace as symbolic gifts. Lace is everywhere: injewellery, in footwear, even in furniture.Clop-clop-cloppety-cloppety-clop. In harmony with the chatter ofthe children. Cloppety-clop-clop. Little heads bow over their lace pillowsaround a large table. They use coloured threads to make it easierto distinguish the pairs of bobbins. Slowly but surely, lace puppies,mice, shells and cars take shape beneath their fingers. “Teacher, teacher,where do I go from here?” comes the cry, from different parts of theroom. Lacemaking is an elective subject for these schoolchildren. Three{ Idrija Lace }

{ Idrija Lace }( 72 )times a week they sit round the table for a double period of lacemaking.And chatter. Lacemaking has always represented an opportunity for socialisation,a chance to chat. The older children help the younger ones,showing their own pillows and explaining how to do the difficult bits.The teacher glides among them, making suggestions and helping unpickparts that have gone wrong. Teachers in Idrija and the surroundingarea have 400 children aged between 6 and 15 under their care.The first teacher at the Idrija Lacemaking School was Ivana Ferjančič.A native of Idrija, she studied lacemaking in South Tyrol before returningto her home town, where she developed new lace patterns that representthe foundation of today’s distinctive Idrija lace. In 1876, followinga consultation with the ministry in Vienna, she founded a lacemakingschool in Idrija. She taught there for just three years before succumbingto a serious illness at the tender age of 29. Behind her she left numerousoriginal techniques and a new generation of lacemaking teachers thathas grown from strength to strength.The history of Idrija lace, however, begins much earlier. Probablywith the arrival of miners from Bohemia, who came here to work in thetown’s mercury mine. Their wives were skilled at lacemaking and forthem it was a way of earning some extra money. The local girls observedtheir techniques and added Slovene motifs and names. This was the originof rogljički, srčki, kriščevke, gobice and so on.Cloppety-clop-clop-cloppety-clop. The sound echoes around thecourtyard of Gewerkenegg Castle. Clop-clop-cloppety-clop. A ladywith black hair and a black dress spins her bobbins skilfully. Her eyesflash merrily behind her big black glasses. On her pillow the pins arestuck into a paper pattern or pricking, around which she weaves goldthreads. Fashion magazines lie on a table alongside lacemaking equipment:hardwood bobbins, stainless steel pins, different kinds of thread– gold, silver and traditional white. Simple pieces of lace are displayednear the entrance for tourists to buy as souvenirs: hearts, clover leaves,horseshoes and outlines of Slovenia. These are what she sells most of,she nods. Behind her, a large lace fan. On the walls to the left and right,shelves full of pendants for necklaces, brooches, earrings, bracelets. Preciousstones are woven into some of them, while others feature an agateor opal dressed in transparent lace.Lidija Anzelm is one of many lacemakers with a workshop in Idrija.The town is full of shops selling lace. Lace napkins, bed linen, jewellery,clothes and fashion accessories line the high street like a lace border.Idrija’s designers are seeking a balance between preserving traditionallace and finding a modern form of expression and new market niches.The lacemaking school and lacemakers collaborate with fashion designers,textiles students from the University of Ljubljana, furnituremakers, and so on. Together they are asking questions that are pushingthe boundaries of people’s understanding of what lace can be. Whatmaterial should you use for lace that will represent the back section ofan otherwise leather shoe? How does lace behave when combined withdifferent materials on an evening gown? How far can a designer go iflace is to remain unmistakably Idrija lace? How to use lace in new waysnever seen before? The bedroom suites by Idrija-based furniture makerIles, for example, are a veritable homage to the lacemaking tradition. Animpression of a giant piece of lace extends across gleaming, colourfulbases – naturally with matching lace bed linen. And so it seems thateveryone is pulling on the same bobbin and Idrija is establishing itselfas a unique town, a town that breathes in an infinity of white threadsand breathes out lace of a magical lightness.Cloppety-cloppety-clop-clop. Like a soundtrack. Cloppety-cloppetyclop.A grey-haired tourist sits in front of a lace pillow containing a partiallycompleted piece of lace and gazes at the projection in front of her.Cross, swap, carry over. Cross, swap, carry over. Her fingers slowly tryto obey the mute orders murmured by her lips. But the thread is soontangled. She untangles it and tries again. Cross, swap, carry over. Buther fingers swap, carry over and cross. Her husband stands behind her, afaint smile on his face, and points to the large piece of lace in the displaycabinet next to them and asks her when she thinks she will be ready tomake something like that. Then they walk past the exhibits of lace fromvarious parts of the world, past clothes with a hint of lace, out of theaward-winning Idrija museum into the open air.A

Vprostorih Idrijske čipkarske šole poteka srečanje udeležencev evropskegaprojekta z naslovom Čipka – razkošje in priložnost. Projektna skupinasi je zastavila nalogo, da rekonstruira stare, že pozabljene čipke.Slovenske čipkarice so se lotile fragmenta čipke, ki je menda krasil obrobo hlačJaneza Vajkarda Valvasorja in predstavlja najstarejšo slovensko ohranjeno čipko.V 19. stoletju jo je v Valvasorjevi družinski grobnici našel Peter von Rodics, kije bil raziskovalec življenja in dela Valvasorja. Čipka je v modri pisemski ovojniciz napisom, ki je pojasnjeval, da gre za čipko iz Valvasorjeve družinske grobnice,neodkrita ležala v Arhivu RS vse do leta 2001. Zaradi vpliva stoletij je bila vzelo krhkem stanju, vendar je čipkaricam kljub temu odprla vrata v svet starihslovenskih čipk. Čipka z rastlinskim ornamentom je bila izdelana s pomočjo štiriinštiridesetihparov klekljev, kot je bilo v našem prostoru običajno, dokler IvanaFerjanič ni izumila tehnike klekljanja s sedmimi pari, ki se največkrat uporabljaše danes. Za razliko od idrijske čipke, običajno izdelane iz lana, je bila Valvasorjevačipka svilena in črno obarvana, kar je bil v 17. stoletju zadnji modni krik.The Idrija Lacemaking School is currently hosting a meeting of participantsin a European project entitled Lace – A Wealth for the Rich, ABlessing for the Poor. The project group has set itself the task of reconstructingold, forgotten lace patterns. Slovenian lacemakers have tackled a fragmentof lace that is said to have adorned the trousers of 17 th -century polymathJ. V. Valvasor and represents the oldest surviving piece of Slovenian lace. It wasdiscovered in the Valvasor family tomb in the 19 th century by Peter von Rodics,who was researching Valvasor’s life and work. Until 2001 the lace lay undiscoveredin the National Archives of the Republic of Slovenia in a blue envelope withan inscription explaining that the lace came from the Valvasor family tomb. Thepassage of time has left it in an extremely fragile state, but for today’s lacemakersit has nevertheless opened the door into the world of old Slovenian lace. Thelace, which has a plant motif, was made using 44 pairs of bobbins, which wasthe custom in this part of the world until Ivana Ferjančič invented a technique usingjust seven pairs of bobbins – still the most commonly used technique today.Unlike Idrija lace, which is usually made from flax, Valvasor’s lace was made ofsilk and dyed black – the height of 17 th -century fashion.Idrija je bila tudi zaradi svoje lege idealna za razvoj čipkarstva. Mestece,ki se krčevito oprijema kamnitih bregov Idrijce, saj se le malo za njimizemlja strmo vzpne proti nebu, je nudilo le malo možnosti za kmetijstvo,zato je bilo klekljanje eno redkih dejavnosti, ki je ženskam nudilo lastenprihodek. Precej majhen sicer, saj si je klekljarica za celodnevno prepletanjeniti lahko privoščila kilo mesa ali dva hlebca kruha. Tudi nedostopnost Idrijeje prav gotovo pripomogla k razvoju edinstvene čipke. Sicer so v Idrijo, ki jebila do pred nekaj stoletji pozimi celo popolnoma zaprta, prihajali vplivi izdrugih čipkarskih središč, z Dunaja in iz Italije, vendar kljub temu le postopomain prejkone v homeopatskih odmerkih. Za skladnost z modo danegadne so skrbeli predvsem domači trgovci, ki so bili glavni oblikovalci vzorcevin hkrati odjemalci čipke. Pravzaprav so bili oni tisti, ki so ustvarili blagovnoznamko »idrijska čipka« in izdelke pod tem imenom prodajali po celotni Evropiin Ameriki.Idrija’s position made it an ideal place for the development of lacemaking.The little town clings to the rocky banks of the Idrijca, behind whichthe ground rises up steeply towards the sky and offers scant possibilitiesfor agriculture. Lacemaking was thus one of the few activities that offeredthe town’s women a chance to earn some money of their own. Earnings weremodest, however, and a lacemaker could not earn enough with a whole day’swork to buy a kilo of meat or even two loaves of bread. Idrija’s inaccessibilitycertainly also contributed to the development of a unique form of lace. Theinfluence of other lacemaking centres, in Vienna and Italy, did eventually startto make itself felt in Idrija – which until a few centuries earlier had been entirelycut off from the outside world, at least in winter – but the process was anextremely slow one. For the most part it was the local merchants who ensuredthat the lace was in line with the fashions of the day. They were also the chiefdesigners of patterns and at the same time the biggest customers. They wereeven responsible for creating the Idrija lace trademark, selling products underthis name throughout Europe and even in America.( 73 )

DanesObrti inopravila naŠkofjeloškem( 74 )Škofja Loka, ujeta v objem obeh Sor, Selške naseveru in Poljanske na jugu, ponuja odličnoizhodišče za izvajanje obrti in opravil. Škofjeloškimestni obrtniki so se že v 15. stoletju povezovali vcehe. Izdelovali so predmete, ki jih ni bilo mogočenikjer kupiti, danes pa rokodelski in obrtniški izdelkislužijo predvsem kot spominki in darila, ki ponavadinimajo uporabne funkcije. Na Škofjeloškem (geografskogledano je to Škofja Loka z obema dolinama) je šedanes ogromno različnih obrti in opravil: klekljanje,kvačkanje, pletenje, vezenje, peka dražgoških inloških kruhkov (pecivo iz medenega testa), sirarstvo,izdelovanje košar, košev, peharjev, brezovih metel,kovaštvo, čevljarstvo, pletarstvo, lanarstvo, oglarstvo,žganjekuha, apneničarstvo, kamnoseštvo, rezbarstvo,sodarstvo, klobučarstvo, glavnikarstvo ...Besedilo in fotografije: Jana Jocif

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{ Danes }( 76 )Potiho, skorajda po prstih sem stopila v hišo in plašnopozdravila: »Dober dan!«»O, kar naprej!« In že sem se počutila tako domače. Usedla semse h krušni peči in se malo razgledala po sobi. Masivna lesenamiza je bila pokrita z rdeče-belim karirastim prtom, na njej je stal jogurtovlonček, poln zvončkov. Ta gosposkih! V kotu sobe stoji bohkov kot. Nakavču je sedela mama in pela uspavanko bolnemu vnučku. Na podboju kuhinjskihvrat visi velik rožni venec. Na vratih je slonel ata in opazoval dogajanje.Na steni je slikarija domačije, kjer je živela mama. Ko je malo otročezaspalo, smo šli v kuhinjo. V mentrgi je vzhajalo testo za kruh, na mizi ječakalo devet peharjev. Pečejo ga vsak teden. Včasih tudi po enajst hlebov.Na kuhinjski mizi hleb kruha, kozarec medu in velika žlica. Mama mije prinesla ’šalo’ vročega in gostega mleka, na katerem se je že nabiralaplast smetane. »Kar sama si odreži!« Odrezala sem si kos kruha in ganamazala z medom.Ata je medtem pletel pehar iz slame in jo polžasto navijal okrog sredínedna peharja. Slamo je povezoval s protjem, ravno prav debelim inhkrati ravno prav tankim, da se ni lomilo, ko ga je navijal okrog slame.Te obrti se je naučil od svojega očeta. Za njim ni potomca, ki bi naprejohranjal to znanje in spretnost.V času, ko je ata spletel pehar do konca, je po hiši omamno dišalo popečenem kruhu. Ko sem se odpravljala proti domu, je mama v papirnat»škrnicelj« spravila hleb hrustljavega kruha – takega, ki ga ni moč kupiti.Pred dvema letoma sem obiskala prvega rokodelca. Metlarja Rudla. Živiv vasi Puštal v neposredni bližini Škofje Loke – v skromni bajtici nahribčku s pogledom na loški grad. V majhni kurilnici ima svojo delavnico,kjer shranjuje tudi ves material za izdelavo brezovih metel. Teganabere v zimskem času, ko ima les v sebi najmanj sokov. Izdelava potekatako, da mojster ošiljene brezove šibe niza okrog ročaja metle in jih nakoncu privije z žico. Gospod Rudl nima potomcev in nikogar ni, ki bi gaobrt zanimala v tolikšni meri, da bi prevzel njegovo znanje ...V ozki grapi v Poljanski dolini je skrita kovaška delavnica. Leta 1926 jev Logu kovaški mojster Matevž Krmelj kupil star mlin in začel z obrtjo.Kovačnico je 1960. leta za njim prevzel njegov sin, ki je proizodnjo še nekolikorazširil. Obrt je vodil do leta 1990, ko jo je prevzel njegov zet JožeKrmelj. Poleg delavnice so zgradili tudi pravo malo elektrarno, ki oskrbujeobjekt z električno energijo. Stara nakovala in kladiva so zamenjalizmogljivejši stroji za kovanje, kljub vsemu pa pri nekaterih izdelkih šepoprimejo za stara orodja. Njihovi izdelki so narejeni iz najkakovostnejšegajekla, kar zviša kakovost in podaljša življenjsko dobo izdelka.Upokojeni mojster Tone Guzelj iz Puštala pa danes le poredko razžariželezo in ga skuje v izdelek. Največkrat popravi kakšno staro in izrabljenoorodje. Večjih naročil nima, prav tako ni potomca, ki bi ga ta obrtzanimala ...Cajnar Albin, upokojeni profesor, je doma v Kravji dolini v Retečah priŠkofji Loki. Izdeluje košare, cajne in jerbase. Gospod Albin pravi, da somateriali – vrbovo šibje, ki ga nabere – danes zelo slabi in se med izdelovanjemkošar lomijo. Za njim ni nikogar, ki bi prevzel to tradicionalnoznanje ...Čebelar z Lenarta, gospod Lojze, ki kuha kopo, klekljarica Slavka inčevljar Franc so bili še rokodelci, katerih delo sem zabeležila s fotoaparatom.Lansko leto je zaključil z delovanjem zadnji ceh s stoletno tradicijo,ki je preživel dobo industrializacije in ne nazadnje tudi globalizacije.Čevljar iz Puštala je bil eden zadnjih aktivnih članov škofjeloškega čevljarskegaceha.

{ Present Day }( 77 )

{ Present Day }( 78 )Crafts andTasks inŠkofja LokaText and Photography: Jana JocifQuietly, almost on tiptoes, I stepped up to the house and timidlycalled: “Hello!”“Oh, come on in!” and I immediately felt right at home. I sat down bythe bread oven and had a little look around the room. The massive woodentable was covered with a red-and-white checked tablecloth, and on itstood a yoghurt pot full of little bells. The really fancy ones! In the cornerof the room was a bohkov kot, a “God’s corner” shrine. On the couch satthe mother singing a lullaby to her poorly grandson. A large rosary hungfrom the kitchen doorjamb. The father leaned against the door, observingwhat was going on. On the wall was a painting of the homesteadwhere the mother lived. When the little child fell asleep, we went into thekitchen. In the dough-trough table or mentrga, bread dough was rising,and nine straw baskets were waiting on the table. They bake every day.Sometimes as many as 11 loaves.Škofja Loka, caught in the embrace of the two Sora rivers,the Selška in the north and the Poljanska in the south, offersan outstanding base for pursuing crafts and tasks. Škofja Lokatown craftsmen were already associated into guilds back in the15th century. They made items you could not buy anywhere else, buttoday the handicrafts and artisanal products serve mainly as souvenirsand gifts that often have no practical function. In the Škofja Loka area (ingeographical terms, the town of Škofja Loka and the two valleys) thereare still a great many different crafts and trades: lacemaking, crocheting,weaving, binding, baking local biscuits (pastries made of honey dough),cheesemaking, various types of basketry, birch brooms, blacksmithing,shoemaking, wickerwork, linen, charcoal, distilling, quarrying, stonemasoning,carving, barrel-making, hat-making, comb-making and more.

( 79 )Večina danes še aktivnih obrtnikov in izdelovalcevje bila rojena v času pred drugo svetovnovojno, zato se na Škofjeloškem zavedamo, kakopomembno je ohranjanje znanja, in trenutno se vse aktivnostinatančno popisujejo in dokumentirajo. Še v temletu bodo z vzpostavitvijo Rokodelskega centra na »Placu«v Škofji Loki poskrbeli, da bi se čim več rokodelskihin obrtniških znanj ohranilo. Zanimanje za rokodelstvo jeizjemno veliko, zato je nastal projekt »Rokodelska dediščinav čezmejnem prostoru – včeraj, danes in jutri«, kibo prav gotovo prispeval k ohranitvi tradicionalnih znanj,veščin in spretnosti.The majority of craftsmen and artisans still activewere born in the period before the Second WorldWar, so in the Škofja Loka area we realise howimportant it is to preserve these skills and at this time toaccurately record and document all these activities. Inthis very year, the establishing of a Handicrafts Centre inthe main square of Škofja Loka should serve to preserveas many artisanal and craft skills as possible. There isplenty of interest in handicrafts, and this gave rise to theproject “Handicraft heritage in the cross-border area –yesterday, today and tomorrow”, which will contribute topreserving traditional knowledge, skills and crafts.

{ Present Day }On the kitchen table was a loaf of bread, a jar of honey and a bigspoon. The mother brought me some milk that was hot and thick, so athick layer of cream had collected on the top. “Just cut yourself some!” Icut myself a slice of bread and spread honey on it.The father meanwhile was weaving a basket of straw, which he waswinding, snail-like, around the (middle) of the basket bottom. He wasbinding up the straw with a switch that was just thick enough and justthin enough not to break when he wound it around the straw. He hadlearned these skills from his own father. After him there are no morefamily members who might keep the craft going.As the father wove the basket to completion, the house was filledwith the intoxicating aroma of baked bread. When I set off home, themother popped into a paper bag a crusty loaf – the kind that is stillwarm and sticks to your teeth.( 80 )Two years ago I visited the first artisan. Rudl the broom-maker. He livesin the village of Puštal right by Škofja Loka, in a humble little houseon a low hill with a view of the town’s castle. He has his workshop in alittle boiler room, where he also stores all the materials to make birchbrooms. He collects the materials in the winter, when the wood has itslowest sap content. Production involves the craftsman wrapping thewhittled birch twigs around the broom handle and then finally securingthem with wire. Mr Rudl has no descendants, and there is no oneinterested enough in this craft to acquire his skills.Hidden away in a narrow ravine in the valley of Poljanska dolina is ablacksmith’s forge. In 1926 the master blacksmith Matevž Krmelj boughtan old mill in Log, and started up his trade. In 1960 the forge was takenover from him by his son, who expanded production a little further. Heran the trade until 1990, when it was taken over by his son-in-law JožeKrmelj. In addition to the workshop, they also built a proper little powerplant that supplies electricity to the facility. The old anvils and hammerswere replaced with more powerful forging machines, although forsome items they still take up the old tools. Their products are made of

( 81 )the highest-quality steel, which raises the quality and extends the lifeof the product.The retired master smith Tone Guzelj in Puštal nowadays only rarelyfires up the iron and forges it into some finished item. He mostly repairsthe odd worn-out implement. He has no major orders, nor does he haveany descendants interested in this trade.Albin the wicker basket maker, a retired professor, has his home in thevalley of Kravja dolina in Reteče near Škofja Loka. He makes baskets andwicker containers. Mr Albin says that the materials – willow switchesthat he collects – are very poor nowadays, and break while he is makingbaskets. There is no one after him who might take over the traditionalskills.The beekeeper from Lenart, Mr Lojze, who makes charcoal, lacemakerSlavka and cobbler Franc were other artisans whose work I recordedwith my camera. Last year saw the winding up of the last guild with acenturies-old tradition, one that had survived the period of industrialisationand ultimately also globalisation. The cobbler of Puštal was oneof the last active members of the Škofja Loka shoemaking guild.A

Postojnska jamajamskiAlternativniturizem( 82 )»Jaz sam sem v različnih deželah in kraljestvih, ne lepo Evropi, ampak tudi po Afriki mnogo edinstvenočudovitih jam videl, ampak najbrž nikjer takoposebno občudovanja vrednih kot v moji očetnjavi ...«Janez Vajkard Valvasor (1641–1693), Slava vojvodine Kranjske

( 83 )Ta naša »očetnjava« se je od Valvasorjevih časov sicer krčila,spreminjala svoje meje in vladarje, se osvobajala in osamosvajala,a nekaj je v njej ostalo prav takšno, kot je bilo takrat, ko je taslavni kronist prvič poškilil v podzemlje: naravno bogastvo slovenskegakrasa, predvsem seveda številne jame, ki se skrivajo pod površjem. Šedanes bi mu težko ugovarjali, pa tudi mnogim drugim, ki so mu sledili;te podzemeljske lepote daleč prekašajo večino svetovno znanih jamskihsistemov in naše jame so stoletja privlačile popotnike, vedoželjne učenjakein romarje, kakor se je pač reklo turistom še pred »izumom« turizma.Besedilo in fotografije: Arne Hodalič

{ Postojnska jama }( 84 )Avantura za vsakogarVzačetku devetdesetih let, ko je zaradi balkanske vojneredni obisk svetovno znane Postojnske jame močnoupadel, so v svoj program uvrstili posebno obliko obiska:pravo jamarsko avanturo. Od dvajsetih raziskanih kilometrov tejame so samo dobri trije kilometri dostopni rednemu obiskovalcu,torej tistemu, ki pri vhodu kupi vstopnico in se v jamo zapelje zznamenito jamsko železnico, ki so jo tu odprli že leta 1872. Vse ostaloje na voljo »posebnežem«. Vsi vodniki za te posebne obiske so pravijamarji, ki preživijo ne samo svoj službeni, pač pa tudi večino svojegaprostega časa med raziskovanjem podzemlja. Tako se manjše skupinenavdušencev podajo po labirintu jamskih brezpotij in v jamarskihkombinezonih ob soju svetilk na čeladah se tem »izbrancem«razkrijejo lepote nedotaknjenega podzemlja. V lanskem letu je jamo natak način obiskalo tisoč dvesto ljudi.Tak obisk jam je izjemna priložnost, da se marsikdo nauči občudovanjain obenem tudi varovanja naravne dediščine. Z ekološkegavidika so jame izredno občutljive in le osveščene skupine obiskovalcevso pogoj za njihovo ohranitev. Nikakor si ne moremo privoščiti, da binepremišljeno uničevali krhke prostore, ki so nastajali dolga tisočletja,in obiskovalci morajo vedeti, da se odlomljen kapnik ne bo »zacelil« včasu nekaj stotin generacij naših vnukov. Hoja po občutljivi sigi in kalcitnihtvorbah, vsakovrstni, tudi najdrobnejši odpadki in še marsikajdrugega lahko trajno poškodujejo jamo.V svojo ponudbo so Postojnčani vključili tudi nekaj sosednjih jam,ki bi drugače ostale skrite navadnim obiskovalcem. Še posebej jezanimiva Jama pod Predjamskim gradom s svojo legendo o ErazmuPredjamskem. Ta naj bi svojim oblegovalcem z grajskega obzidja metalsveže češnje, ki so mu jih prinesli skozi podzemni sistem prav te jame.Nedaleč od glavnega vhoda v Postojnsko jamo se lahko ob stenah 65metrov globokega navpičnega brezna spustimo v Pivka jamo, kjer sepo dnu pretaka skrivnostna reka Pivka. Njen vodni tok tu zapuščaPostojnsko, Črno, in Pivka jamo ter teče po še neraziskanih rovih protidobra dva kilometra oddaljeni Planinski jami. Pot je večinoma vklesanav prepadno steno in lahko se sprehodimo po divjem kanjonu medbrzicami podzemeljske reke, ki je v davni preteklosti izoblikovala celotenpostojnski jamski sistem. V Rovu starih podpisov taki »raziskovalci«najdejo številne podpise prvih obiskovalcev, ki segajo vse tja doleta 1213. Lahko se resnično vživijo v čase, ko so se ljudje, ki so še trdnoverjeli v zmaje in čarovnice, s strahom odpravili v podzemlje in si potrazsvetljevali s kadečimi baklami. Tako kot na primer v osemnajstemstoletju, ko so za posebne priložnosti, kot so bile poroke na bližnjemgradu Hasberg, v jamo nagnali tudi po dva regimenta vojakov, da so zbaklami osvetljevali jamske dvorane.Poseben čar takega obiska so tudi jamske živali. Postojnsko planinskijamski sistem je po jamski biodiverziteti še vedno na prvem mestuv svetu. Te živali so se večinoma umaknile turistom v globlje dele jam,pri tovrstnih obiskih pa lahko obiskovalci nekatere od njih tudi vidijo.In po takem obisku tudi lažje razumemo znamenito misel jamskegaraziskovalca in takratnega jamskega svetilničarja Luke Čeča, ki je leta1818 odkril nove dele Postojnske jame:»Tu je nov svet, tu je paradiž!«

{ Postojna Cave }( 85 )

{ Postojna Cave }( 86 )Alternative Cave TourismText and photography: Arne Hodalič“I have myself, in different countries and kingdomsin Europe as well as in Africa, seen many uniquelywonderful caves, but probably nowhere as worthy ofadmiration as in my fatherland…”Janez Vajkard Valvasor (1641–1693);The Glory of the Duchy of CarniolaSince Valvasor’s times, this “fatherland” of ours has shrunk,changed its borders and rulers, sought liberation and independence,but something in it has remained exactly the same as whenthis famed chronicler first glimpsed the underground world. This, inparticular the great number of caves hiding under the surface, is thenatural wealth of the Slovenian karst. Even today, we could hardly arguewith him or the many who have followed him; these subterraneanbeauties by far surpass most of the world’s famous cave systems, andfor centuries, our caves have attracted travellers, curious scholars andpilgrims, as tourists were called before tourism was “invented”.

{ Postojna Cave }( 87 )

{ Postojna Cave }( 88 )An Adventure for EverybodyIn the early 90s, when the Balkan wars heavily affected the rate of visitsto the world-renowned Postojna cave, it began to offer a special typeof tour: a true caving adventure. Of the 20 kilometres of this cave thathave been explored, only around 3 are accessible to most visitors, that isthe visitors who buy a ticket at the entrance to take a ride into the caveon the famous cave railway, first opened back in 1872. The remainder isavailable only to a special breed of guests. All guides on these specialtours are proper cavers, who not only spend their working time but alsomost of their leisure exploring the subterranean. Small-sized groups ofenthusiasts set off into a trackless maze of cave passages, where theseselect few, dressed in caving suits and accompanied by the glow of helmetlights, explore the unfolding beauties of an untouched underworld.Last year, the cave was visited in this way by 1,200 people.A visit of this type to the caves is a great opportunity for many peopleto learn how to appreciate as well as to protect our natural heritage. Inenvironmental terms, the caves are extremely sensitive and developingthe awareness of visiting groups is a necessary condition for their conservation.We cannot indulge in any thoughtless destruction of thesefragile spaces that took millennia to form, and visitors should knowthat a broken stalactite will not “heal” for hundreds of generations ofgrandchildren to come. Walking on the sensitive sinter and calcareousformations, leaving the smallest amount of refuse, along with manyother things, can cause permanent damage to the cave.The local people have developed the experience on offer with severalnearby caves that would otherwise stay hidden from the ordinary visitor.One cave of special interest is that under Predjama Castle, with its legendabout Erazem Predjamski, who is said to have thrown fresh cherries tohis besiegers from the castle walls, brought to him through the subterraneansystem of this cave. Not far from the main entrance to the PostojnaCave, it is possible to descend the walls of a 65-metre deep vertical abyssto Pivka Cave, at the bottom of which flows the mysterious River Pivka.This is where it leaves the Postojna, Črna and Pivka Caves and runs alonga good two kilometres of still unexplored passages to the Planina Cave.The path is mostly hacked into a precipitous rock face and visitors walkthrough a wild canyon among the white waters of the subterranean river,which in the distant past moulded the entire Postojna cave system. Inthe Passage of Old Signatures “explorers” of this kind will find manysignatures left by the first visitors, dating as far back as 1213. In this waythey can make a connection with the times when people who still firmlybelieved in dragons and witches timorously ventured into the underworld,lighting their way with smoking torches. In the 18th century, forexample, on special occasions such as weddings at the nearby HasbergCastle, two regiments of soldiers were made to go into the cave to illuminatethe subterranean chambers with torches.An enchanting feature of this type of visit is the fauna of the cavesystem. The Postojna-Planina system still ranks first in terms of cavebiodiversity. Though the animals have mostly retreated from the touristsinto the deeper reaches of the caves, visitors can spot some of themon tours of this kind.After a visit, it is easier to understand the famous words of the caveexplorer and lamplighter Luka Čeč, who in 1818 discovered new parts ofthe Postojna cave system:“Here is a new world, here isparadise!” A

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Surf na valovih Jadrana( 90 )To jeprava stvar!

( 91 )Za Jadransko morje je znano, danima surferskih valov. To seveda nipresenetljivo, kajti morje je zaprtomed dolgo hrvaško in italijansko obalo,kamor oceanski tokovi niti približno nesežejo. Presenetljivo pa je, da so entuziastičnislovenski surferji v hrvaški Istri vendarleodkrili poseben del obale, kjer ob izjemnoredkih spletih vremenskih okoliščin nastajajovalovi, primerni za surfanje.Besedilo in fotografije: Simon Plestenjak

{ Surf na valovih Jadrana }( 92 )Včasih, ko so današnji surferji hodili s starši na Hrvaškona poletne počitnice, o surfanju na valovih ni vedel nihčeprav ničesar, še najmanj lokalni ribiči, ki so sicer znalipovedati marsikatero o dolgih in visokih valovih, kadar jeod jugozahoda potegnil eden glavnih jadranskih vetrov – jugo. In pravjugo je v tej zgodbi o surfanju glavni igralec.Danes, ko so potovanja v Indonezijo, Avstralijo, Ameriko in še kateredruge surferske destinacije približno tako zamudna, kot je bil nekočskok v južno Dalmacijo, se je športni duh nekaterih Slovencev na obalahtamkajšnjih oceanov srečal z novim športom. Naučili so se surfanja inob povratku seveda ves čas sanjarili o bližjih valovih za svoj novi hobi.Valovi za surfanje so v grobem dveh izvorov: t.i. »reef break« (kjer sevalovi lomijo ob grebenih v oceanu) in t.i. »beach break« (kjer se valovilomijo, ko morje naleti na počasen nagib peščenih plaž). Za surfanje jenamreč bistvenega pomena, da se val lomi, kajti le tako ustvarja nekakšnosteno, po kateri drsijo deske. Če imamo torej v Jadranu velike valove,ki jih spiha jugo, potem morda nekje obstaja počasi nagnjena plaža,kjer bi se ti valovi lomili!Skupina slovenskih surferjev je s to logiko v nekaj zadnjih letih prekkombinacije interneta, avtomatskih vremenskih postaj, google earth,zemljevidov, pričevanj ribičev in lastnih iskanj našla doslej še neodkritesurferske lokacije na Hrvaškem. Med njimi sta glavna, najboljša in najboljobiskana Medulin in Barbariga. Ista logika je napeljala tudi Italijane,ki so svoja mesta našli v Jesolu, Lignanu in Gradežu, v Sloveniji pa jeedina pogojno možna piranska Punta.To pa je tudi vse od morja, ki se zajeda najgloblje v osrčje Evrope intako predstavlja najbližjo surfersko destinacijo za vse narode srednjeEvrope. Medulin in Barbariga sta namreč oddaljena samo približno dveuri vožnje iz Ljubljane.Zato ne gre zanemarjati pomena takšne lokacije za lokalno surferskosceno. V Sloveniji se surferji združujejo že v 4 surferske klube, ustanovljenapa je bila tudi Surf zveza Slovenije, ki organizira vsako leto tudislovensko državno prvenstvo Jugo Majstr, imenovano prav po znamenitemvetru. Prvič je bilo organizirano leta 2006.Ponavadi je na surfanju pri nas zelo mrzlo. Jugo, ki najbolj piha v zimskihmesecih, namreč prinaša vlažen zrak in vlažen mraz je tisti, ki najboljzažira v kosti. Klemen Surk iz prvega slovenskega surferskega klubaUjusansa, je v blogu na primer objavil ta zapis v dobrem slovenskemsurferskem slengu: »Medulin, 4. 3. ob 13:55, voda ima baje 9,8 stopinj, koprides ven, ne cutis dobro podplatov, drugace pa gre z dobrim wetsuitom.Vala je bilo 1meter, kaksen set tudi malo vec, piha rahel JZ, za jutr jenapovedan hud jugo pa popoldan naj bi se umiril.«Vsekakor je potrebna »surferska duša«, da vloži toliko truda za takomalo surfanja v tako težavnih pogojih. Vendar ne gre toliko za količinosurfanja kot za količino in intenziteto občutkov. Največ, kar lahko tu pričakuješ,so neredni valovi, ki se vsakič lomijo na drugem mestu, ledenomrzla voda in ostro, kamnito dno. Gre predvsem za surfanje na kraju, kini bil nikoli mišljen za to!V Medulin sem se nekajkrat odpravil tudi sam – ne samo z desko, pačpa tudi s fotoaparatom. S skupino fantov smo vedno odšli iz Ljubljaneže okrog 4h zjutraj.Glavno gonilo izletov je bil prijatelj, 33-letni profesionalnisnowboarder Matevž Pristavec. Surfati je začel na Portugalskem inpotem mnogo surfal v Indoneziji.Ko je pred nekaj leti osvojil bron na svetovnem prvenstvu vsnowboard skokih (big air) mi je povedal: »Uspešen sem bil, ker semšel med vsakim tekmovanjem surfat«. V Medulin zahaja tudi po 15-krat na leto. »Všeč mi je, da pri odločitvi, kdaj gremo dol, obstaja nekotveganje. Ni tako kot na oceanu, kjer je vse dano. Mi moramo pregledatiin spremljati kakih šest avtomatskih vremenskih postaj, da se znamoglede na napovedane valove in veter odločiti, kdaj bo najbolj ugodnihnekaj ur za surfanje,« pripoveduje Matevž.Poleg tako prekaljenih surferjev, kot je Matevž, pridejo v Medulintudi manj izkušeni. Klemen Razinger, 33, ima o tem drugačne izkušnje:»Osebno mi Medulin ni najbolj pri srcu. Neprijazna obala, razbrazdanodno in nekonstantne razmere me zaenkrat še niso prepričali. Mislim, daje to lokacija za izkušene deskarje in daleč od tega, da bi se nekdo tamučil deskanja na valovih.« Vendar ima tudi on pristno surfersko dušo:»To je popolnoma drug svet v primerjavi s francoskimi ali španskimispoti, vendar je velikokrat ravno tako romantičen. Ko se začne soncespuščati proti horizontu in se po dolžini vala raztegne tista lepa zahajajočasvetloba, se ti zdi, da si nekje drugje, daleč od doma.«Večina mladih Slovencev si o hrvaški obali deli enake spomine – toplomediteransko klimo, pečene ribe, glasen ponavljajoč se zvok škržatov,prijeten vonj borovcev, slano kožo in obvezno skakanje s skal v globokokristalno morje. Surfanje pa ni bilo nikoli del tega kolektivnega spomina,zato je v teh negotovih in skopih razmerah tako dražeče – je nekaj svetovnega,kar surferji prinesejo domov. Je nekaj, o čemer bodo lahko pripovedovalisvojim vnukom. Je klasična, večna zgodba o odkritju nečesanovega. Ampak ne novega na internetu. To je prava stvar!

( 93 )Gre predvsem za surfanje nakraju, ki ni bil nikoli mišljen za to!{ Surfing }

{ Surfing the Adriatic }SURF ZVEZA SLOVENIJE/SURF ASSOCIATION OF SLOVENIAhttp://www.surfzveza.si/UJUSANSA SURF KLUB/UJUSANSA SURF CLUBhttp://www.ujusansa.siSURF KLUB/SURF CLUBhttp://www.surfer.siSURF KLUB TRIBU/SURF CLUB TRIBUhttp://www.tribu.siMANA’WAIhttp://manawai.si( 94 )

This is theReal Thing!Text and photography: Simon PlestenjakThe Adriatic Sea is not known for having surfer waves.Of course this is hardly a surprise, for the sea is enclosed betweenthe long Croatian and Italian coastlines, and ocean currentscome nowhere near it. What is surprising, though, is that enthusiasticSlovenian surfers have nevertheless discovered in Croatian Istriaa particular part of the coast, where in an extremely rare set of weatherconditions you can find waves suitable for surfing.In the days when today’s surfers went with their parents on summerholidays in Croatia, no one knew a thing about surfing the waves, leastof all the local fishermen, who otherwise could tell you a thing or twoabout the long and high waves that formed whenever the weather sentin one of the main southerly Adriatic winds – the jugo. And it is indeedthe jugo – short for jugovzhodni, or southeast wind – that plays the mainpart in this story of surfing.Nowadays, when travelling to Indonesia, Australia, America andother surfer destinations is just about as essential as it once was to hopdown to southern Dalmatia, the sporting spirit of some Slovenians hasencountered a new pastime on the shores of those oceans. They havelearned how to surf, and on their return, of course they spend all theirtime dreaming about waves within easier reach for their new hobby.Surf waves are generated roughly in two ways – the “reef break”(where waves break over reefs in the ocean) and “beach break” (wherewaves break when the sea runs up against the gentle incline of a sandybeach). For surfing of course the essential thing is that the wave breaks,for only in this way does it create a kind of wall on which the surfboardcan slide. So if the Adriatic can produce big waves, whipped up by thejugo, then there does perhaps exist somewhere a gently shelving beachwhere those waves could break!Over the last few years, a group of Slovenian surfers have applied thislogic and a combination of the Internet, automatic weather stations,Google Earth, maps, stories from fishermen and their own searches tofind hitherto undiscovered surf locations in Croatia. The two main locations,the best and most visited, are Medulin and Barbariga. The samelogic has also lured Italians, who have found their own spots at Iesolo,Lignano and Grado, while in Slovenia the only conditional possibility isthe Piran punta or point.( 95 ){ Surfing }

{ Surfing the Adriatic }But this is it from the sea that probes furthest into the heart of Europe,thereby offering the closest surfing destination for all the people of CentralEurope. Medulin and Barbariga are just about two hours’ drive fromLjubljana.So we should not ignore the importance of such a location for the localsurfer scene. In Slovenia, surfers have already formed four surfingclubs, as well as the Surf Association of Slovenia, which organises everyyear a Slovenian national championship, Jugo Majstr – named of courseafter the famous wind. The competition was first held in 2006.Usually surfing here is a very cold affair. The jugo, which blows hardest inthe winter months, brings with it damp air, and the damp air is what chillsWhen he won bronze a few years ago at the world championship in bigair snowboard jumping, he told me: “I did well because between eachcompetition I went surfing.” He goes to Medulin as often as 15 times ayear. “I like it that there’s a certain amount of risk involved in decidingwhen to go down there. It’s not like the ocean, where everything is agiven. We have to check out and monitor around six automatic weatherstations, so we can decide, given the forecast waves and wind, whenwill be the optimum few hours for surfing,” says Matevž.Aside from such hard-bitten surfers as Matevž, the less experiencedalso come to Medulin. For this reason Klemen Razinger, 33, has a differentstory: “Personally Medulin isn’t my favourite spot. The inhospitable( 96 )you to the bone. Klemen Surk, a member of the first Slovenian surfing club,Ujusansa, published the following notes, for instance, in a blog completewith the best Slovenian surfer slang: “Medulin 4.3. at 13:55, water supposedly9.8 degrees, when you get out you can’t really feel your feet, otherwiseit’s OK with a good wetsuit. Waves 1 metre, some sets a bit more, gentle SWbreeze, tomorrow forecasting strong jugo but calm in the afternoon”.Of course you need a “surfer’s soul” to put so much effort into suchlittle surfing in such difficult conditions. But it’s not so much aboutthe quantity of surfing as about the quantity and intensity of feelings.The most you can expect here is irregular waves that break each in a differentplace, icy cold water and a sharp, rocky seabed. This is, above all,about surfing in a location never intended for it!I myself went to Medulin a few times – not just with my board, butwith my camera, too. Together with a group of guys, I would alwaysleave Ljubljana around 4 am.The driving force behind these excursions was a friend, the 33-yearoldprofessional snowboarder Matevž Pristavec. He started surfing inPortugal and then surfed a lot in Indonesia.shoreline, the jagged seabed and changeable conditions have not wonme over for the moment. I think this is a location for experienced surfers,and it’s far from being a place where someone could learn to surf thewaves.” But he, too, has a genuine surfer’s soul: “This is an entirely differentworld to the French or Spanish spots, but for that very reason it’soften romantic. When the sun starts setting towards the horizon, andthat beautiful setting sunlight catches the length of the waves, it seemslike you’re somewhere else, far from home.”The majority of young Slovenians share the same memories of theCroatian coast – the warm Mediterranean climate, grilled fish, the loud,repetitive noise of the cicadas, the pleasant fragrance of the pines, saltyskin and the obligatory jumping off rocks into the deep crystal sea. Andsurfing was never a part of this collective memory. For this reason, inthese uncertain and meagre times, surfing is so alluring – it is somethingglobal that surfers have brought home. It is something that theywill be able to tell their grandchildren about. It is the classic, eternaltale of discovering something new. But not something new on the Internet– this is the real thing!A

This is, above all, about surfingin a location never intended for it!( 97 )

Egipt( 98 )V tišinimed koralniminorčijami

( 99 )Ura je bila pet zjutraj, sonce še ni vzšlo in bilo je hladno.Zavit v rjuho sem si v prijetnem jutranjem hladu kartežko predstavljal, da bo čez nekaj ur v tem šotorupostalo nevzdržno, kajti vročina, ki se julija v Egiptu pojavi takojpo sončnem vzhodu, se hitro povzpne krepko čez štiridesetstopinj. Zrak je bil prijetno suh in kar čutil sem vonj po puščavi,ki je plaval po zalivu Marsa Shagra. Ampak jutro je najlepši deldneva in najbolj zanimivi potopi so ponavadi prav zjutraj.Besedilo in fotografije: Borut Furlan

{ Egipt }( 100 )Gladina v laguni je bila gladka kot olje. Voda, modra inbistra, me je prijetno vsrkala vase s svojo poletno toplino. Jutranjabonaca v laguni je razmejevala dva popolnoma različnasvetova. Zgornji svet je puščava, svet sonca, peska in kamnov, svet, ki mupripadamo mi. Vse je bilo odeto v tople rjavkaste tone, ki so ob sončnemvzhodu zažareli v še bolj rdečih odtenkih. Spodnji svet je svet neskončnemodrine, spokojne tišine, a hkrati tudi svet vrvečega življenja.Koralni greben se prebudi, še preden prvi sončni žarki predrejo gladinoin ga obarvajo s svojo zlatkasto jutranjo svetlobo. Pisane koralne ribice,zastavice in cesarčki, vrvijo med koralnimi vejicami in si iščejo drobnihčrvičkov in rakcev za pod zob. Plamenke, odete v svoje čudovite, a strupeneresaste plavuti, po nočnem lovu počivajo v senci večjih koral. Barviteustnače neumorno patruljirajo po grebenu, pikaste samotarske kirnje palenobno poležavajo vsaka na svojem dvorišču. Plašni hlastači se združujejov tesne jate in se stiskajo k večjim koralnim skladom. Rumeni klovnčkise s svojimi družinicami zadržujejo v varnem zavetju tentaklijev svojihanemon, toda kadar se njihovi hiši približa vsiljivec, ga hrabro preženejoz grozečim škrtanjem s čeljustmi v svojih malih ustecih. Koralni grebenje odet v oblake oranžnih kirnjic, ki neumorno hlastajo za nam nevidnimplanktonom.Nedaleč od Marse Shagre se razprostira čisto drugačen, a nič manjzanimiv zaliv – Marsa Abu Dabab. Njegovo dno je peščeno in prekrito ssramežljivo morsko travo. Na njem se pasejo orjaške želve, ki lenobnopoležavajo v kratki travi, jo po malem žvečijo in se občasno spomnijo, dabi se bilo morda potrebno napotiti na gladino po kratek požirek zraka.Včasih jim delajo družbo mlade rumene ribice piloti, ki si v oblakih peska,dvigujočega se pri želvjem muljenju trave, poiščejo slastne črvičke. Čeimamo srečo, lahko na paši srečamo tudi redkega dugonga ali morskokravo, simpatičnega rastlinojedega morskega sesalca s smešno glavo inelegantnim delfinjim repom.

( 101 )V bližini travnatega zaliva je koralni labirint, imenovan Sharm AbuDabab. Tu so korale ustvarile sistem rovov, jezerc in votlin z luknjami vstropu, skozi katere prodirajo srebrni sončni žarki, ki predirajo temo inmigotajo, kadar veter nakodra morsko gladino. Pred vhodom v labirint seobičajno zadržuje velika jata mladih barakud, ki se kot velikanski srebrnosiv oblak razprostirajo nad koralnim grebenom. Barakudice so dobro znaneroparskim šnjurom, ki z odprtega morja prihajajo po svoj krvni davek.Šnjuri se zaganjajo v oblak iz slastnega mesa, a ta se jim spretno izmika invelike plenilke se pogosto znajdejo sredi tunela, katerega stene sestavljajoribja telesa. Jata od daleč zgleda kot en sam ogromen, neprestano spreminjajočse živ organizem.Daleč na odprtem morju se razprostira koralni greben Shaab Shagra,bolje znan kot Elphinstone, in se kot mogočen zid dviguje iz velikih globin.Njegove stene so navpične, ponekod celo previsne in odete v čudovitemehke korale in gorgonije, ki so jim ljubši senčni predeli. Na vrhu grebenase bohotijo kamene korale, kajti le te se lahko uspešno zoperstavijo neumornemurušečemu delovanju velikih valov.Greben nudi dobra zaklonišča številnim koralnim ribicam, ki so hranavečjim plenilcem z odprtega morja. Sem zahajajo morski psi, kot stabeloplavuti oceanski pes in kladvenica. Posebno v poletnih mesecih srečujemojate teh lepih velikih plenilcev z značilno glavo v obliki velikegakladiva.Ko sonce zaide za rdečkastimi gorami v zaledju Marse Shagre in kose prične zrak nad skalami, razbeljenimi od sonca, ponovno ohlajati, seprebivalci koralnega grebena zamenjajo. Večina ribic se poskrije globokomed koralne veje, kjer so varne pred nočnimi plenilci. Noč je čas rakcev,ki lačni pokukajo iz svojih skrivališč, da bi si napolnili svoje drobne, anenasitne želodčke. Marsikatera kozica pri tem naredi uslugo večji ribi, kojo očisti nadležnih zajedavcev. Na svoj račun pridejo tudi lepe in počasneplamenke, ki počistijo greben vseh naivnih malih ribic, ki se pravočasnone poskrijejo v zavetje koral.Po številnih dnevnih in nočnem potopu tudi sam zapustim koralni rajin se vrnem med prijetne rjuhe v svojem šotoru. Potrebno se je spočiti insi nabrati novih moči, kajti še prehitro bo spet nov dan in nadaljevalo sebo moje raziskovanje skrivnosti koralnega grebena Marse Shagre.{ Egypt }

{ Egypt }SilenceAmidst a Riotof CoralText and photography: Borut Furlan( 102 )It was five in the morning, the sun was not yet up and it was cold.Wrapped in a blanket, I was having difficulty in the pleasant morningchill imagining that in a few hours it would become unbearablein this tent, for the July heat, which sets in just after sunrise in Egypt,quickly climbs way past 40 degrees. The air was agreeably dry and Isensed the fragrance of the desert wafting around the bay of MarsaShagra. But morning is the nicest part of the day, and the most excitingdives usually happen in the morning.The surface of the lagoon was as smooth as oil. The water, blue andclear, sucked me pleasantly into its summer warmth. The morning calmin the lagoon delineated two completely different worlds. The upperworld was the desert, the world of the sun, sand and rock, the world towhich we belong. Everything was draped in warm brownish tones, andglowed increasingly red as the sun rose. The lower world was a world ofinfinite blue, of tranquil silence, and at the same time a world of teeminglife.

{ Egypt }( 103 )

{ Egypt }( 104 )The coral reef awakes even before the first rays of sun pierce the surfaceand paint it in golden morning light. Colourful little coral fish, bannerfishand Emperor angelfish, swarm around the coral branches huntingtiny worms and shrimp to snack on. Firefish, decked out in theirfantastic but poisonous tasselled fins, rest in the shade of bigger coralsafter their night’s hunt. Brightly coloured parrotfish tirelessly patrol thereef, while lone spotted groupers laze about, each in their own courtyard.Timid snappers huddle together in tight schools and stick closeto large coral masses. Yellow clownfish and their little families stay inthe safe refuge of the tentacles of their own anemones, but wheneveran intruder approaches their house, they boldly drive them away withthreatening chomping of their little jawbones. The coral reef is coveredin clouds of orange swallowtail seaperch, ceaselessly grazing on whatare to us invisible plankton.Stretching out not far from Marsa Shagra is a completely different,but no less fascinating bay – Marsa Abu Dabab. It has a sandy bottomand is covered with coy seaweeds. This is the grazing ground of giantturtles, which lazily disport themselves in the short seaweed, chewingoff a little and occasionally remembering that they might need to headto the surface for a quick gulp of air. Once in a while they are joined byyoung yellow pilot fish, looking for tasty worms in the clouds of sandstirred up by the turtles grazing on the seaweed. If you’re lucky, in thispasture you might even encounter a rare dugong or sea cow, the lovableplant-eating marine mammal with its odd head and elegant dolphin’stail.

( 105 )Close to this seaweed bay is a coral labyrinth called Sharm AbuDabab. Here the corals have created a system of galleries, pools and cavernswith holes in the roof, through which silver sunrays penetrate thedarkness, shimmering when the wind curls the surface of the water. Alarge school of young barracuda is usually hanging out at the entranceto the labyrinth, hovering like a gigantic silver-grey cloud above thecoral reef. The young barracuda are well known to the plundering Atlantichorse mackerel, which come in from the open sea for their poundof flesh. The mackerel race into the cloud of delicious meat, but the agilecloud avoids them, and the great predators frequently find themselvesin the middle of a tunnel walled entirely of fish bodies. From a distancethe school looks like a huge, constantly changing, living organism.Far out in the open sea lies the coral reef of Shaab Shagra, betterknown as Elphinstone, which rises from the great deep like a mightywall. Its walls are perpendicular, in some places even with overhangs,and are decked with wondrous soft corals and gorgonia, which favourthe shadier parts. Proudly topping the reef are rock corals, for they alonecan withstand the ceaseless destructive efforts of the great waves.The reef offers a safe haven for numerous little coral fish, whichwould otherwise be food for the bigger predators in the open sea. It isalso visited by sharks such as the oceanic whitetip and hammerhead.Particularly in the summer months you can encounter schools of thesefine large predators, with their characteristic heads shaped like greathammers.When the sun goes down behind the reddish mountains inland fromMarsa Shagra, and when the air over the sun-bleached rocks starts tocool down again, the denizens of the coral reef change places. Most ofthe little fish hide deep down among the coral branches, where theyare safe from night predators. Night is the time for crabs, which pokehungrily out of their hiding holes to fill their tiny, insatiable stomachs.Here many shrimp do a favour for bigger fish, cleaning them of annoyingparasites. The beautiful, slow firefish also come into their own here,clearing the reef of all the naïve young fish that are not quick enough tohide in the shelter of the coral.After numerous day and night dives, I also leave the coral paradise,and return to the pleasant sheets in my tent. I need to rest up and gathernew strength, for all too soon it will be a new day and time to continueexploring the mysteries of the Marsa Shagra coral reef.A

S L O V E N I J ANekaj osnovnih podatkovpovršina (v km 2 ) 20 273gozdovi 10 124travniki 5 593polja in vrtovi 2 471sadovnjaki 363vinogradi 216dolžina meje (v km)s Hrvaško 546z Avstijo 324z Italijo 235z Madžarsko 102obala (v km) 46,6A few factsterritory area (in sq. km) 20273forests 10124grassland 5593fields and gardens 2471orchards 363vineyards 216border length (in km)with Croatia 546with Austria 324with Italy 235with Hungary 102coastline (in km) 46.6najvišja točkaTriglav2864 mhighest pointTriglav2864 mgostota naseljenosti(prebivalcev/km) 98prebivalstvoglavno mesto2 milijonaLjubljanavečja mesta: Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenjepodnebje: alpsko, celinsko, sredozemskojezik: Uradni jezik je slovenščina, na območjih z mešanim prebivalstvompa madžarščina in italijanščina. Pri stiku s tujci uporabljajoprebivalci Slovenije največkrat angleščino, nemščino, italijanščinoin francoščino.denarna valuta: Denarna valuta je evro (EUR). Tuje valute lahkozamenjate na mejnih prehodih, v bankah, menjalnicah in hotelih.population density(inhabitants/km) 98populationcapital2 millionLjubljanamajor towns: Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenjeclimate: Alpine, Continental, Mediterraneanlanguage: The official language is Slovene, as well as Hungarian andItalian in areas of mixed population. People who live in Slovenia mostcommonly use English to communicate with foreigners, then German,Italian and French.currency: The currency is the euro (EUR). Foreign currency may beexchanged at border crossings, in banks, exchange offices and hotels.prazniki1. in 2. januar novo leto8. februar Prešernov dan,slovenski kulturni praznik8. april velika noč27. april dan upora proti okupatorju(druga svetovna vojna)1. in 2. maj praznik dela25. junij dan državnosti15. avgust Marijino vnebovzetje31. oktober dan reformacije1. november dan spomina na mrtve25. december božič26. december dan samostojnostiholidaysJanuary 1 & 2February 8April 8April 27May 1 & 2June 25August 15October 31November 1December 25December 26New Year’s HolidayPrešeren Day,Slovene Day of CultureEaster Sunday and MondayDay of Uprising Against the Occupation (WW2)Labour DayPentecostStatehood DayAssumption DayReformation DayAll Saints’ DayChristmas DayIndependence Day

EVROPAEUROPERedni poleti / Scheduled FlightsZimski in poletni vozni redIz/from LJUBLJANA/Brnik Nm/km Čas poleta/Flight time(A320/CRJ)Čarterski poleti / Charter FlightsWinter and summer timetablesIz/from LJUBLJANA/Brnik Nm/km Čas poleta/Flight time(A320/CRJ)Amsterdam 606/1122 1.35 hAthens 761/1409 2.05 hBanjaluka 157/291 0.45 hBarcelona 686/1270 1.46 hBelgrade 267/494 0.65 hBrussels 559/1035 1.26 hCopenhagen 641/1187 1.39 hDublin 1026/1900 2.38 hFrankfurt 420/778 1.07 hIstanbul 781/1446 1.53 hKiev 730/1352 2.05 hLondon (Gatwick) 757/1402 1.56 hManchester 868/1608 2.11 hMoscow (Sheremetyevo) 1120/2074 2.35 hMunich 224/415 0.41 hOhrid 434/803 1.09 hParis (C. de Gaulle) 616/1141 1.36 hPristina 622/1150 1.50 hPodgorica 365/676 1.25 hSarajevo 222/411 0.41 hSkopje 413/765 1.07 hSplit 207/383 0.50 hStockholm 910/1685 2.35 hTirana 474/878 1.14 hToulon 510/945 1.40 hVienna 153/283 0.30 hZürich 334/619 0.56 hWarsaw 463/859 1.35 hVienna - Frankfurt 358/663 1.10 hAntalya 966/1789 2.35 hAqaba 1454/2692 3.18 hCairo 1276/2363 3.25 hChios 738/1367 2.10 hConstanca 654/1211 1.55 hDjerba 796/1474 2.20 hDubrovnik 292/541 1.05 hHeraklion 832/1540 2.15 hHurghada 1533/2839 3.45 hIbiza 799/1480 2.20 hKarpathos 996/1844 2.35 hKefalonija 585/1083 1.45 hKerkira (Corfu) 523/968 1.35 hKos 873/1616 2.20 hLarnaca 1197/2216 3.00 hLefkas (Preveza) 567/1050 1.40 hLesbos (Mitiline) 746/1381 2.10 hMalta 670/1241 2.00 hMenorca 646/1196 1.55 hMykonos 793/1468 1.56 hPalma de Mallorca 723/1339 2.10 hRhodos 947/1753 2.30 hSamos 823/1524 2.10 hSantorini 836/1548 2.15 hSharm el Sheikh 1505/2787 3.45 hSkiatos 632/1170 1.50 hThassos (Kavala) 563/1043 1.45 hTel Aviv 1286/2382 2.57 hThessaloniki 571/1057 1.24 hZakinthos 632/1170 1.50hIz/from PRIŠTINABrussels 931/1706 2.35 hCopenhagen 1065/1972 3.05 hDuesseldorf 924/1711 2.40 hFrankfurt 930/1722 2.50 hMunich 646/1196 2.00 hParis 981/1817 2.40 hAdria Airways has used the map of Europe exclusively as an illustration of its flight connections and without any political or other implications.

Adria Airways{ Adria Airways }Flota/FleetAirbus A319Število/Total 2Dolžina/Length33.84 mVišina/Height11.76 mRazpon kril/Wingspan34.10 mHitrost/Cruising speed900 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude11 700 mDolet/Range6 650 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 135Airbus A320( 118 )Število/Total 2Dolžina/Length37.57 mVišina/Height11.75 mRazpon kril/Wingspan31.10 mHitrost/Cruising speed900 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude11 700 mDolet/Range3 890 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 162/180Canadair Regional Jet 900Število/Total 4Dolžina/Length32.50 mVišina/Height7.57 mRazpon kril/Wingspan23.20 mHitrost/Cruising speed882 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude12 496 mDolet/Range3 600 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 86Canadair Regional Jet 200 LRŠtevilo/Total 6Dolžina/Length26.77 mVišina/Height6.22 mRazpon kril/Wingspan21.21 mHitrost/Cruising speed860 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude12 496 mDolet/Range3 285 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 48/50Ilustracije: Miha Žnidar

How we builtbridges withbutterflies.How we builtbridges withImpossible you might think, but not when you bringthe right global organisations together. Irina Bokovais the Director-General of UNESCO, who met withthe Star Alliance network representatives in 2001 tocreate the Biosphere Connections partnership.butterflies.This environmental initiative linked UNESCO’s networkof biosphere reserves with the International Unionfor Impossible Conservation you might of Nature think, and but the not Ramsar when you Convention bringon the Wetlands right global to conserve organisations some together. of the world’s Irina Bokova mostunique is the Director-General locations. Being of the UNESCO, largest airline who met network, withStar the Star Alliance Alliance was network the natural representatives partner for this in 2001 initiative toas create its members the Biosphere were able Connections to donate partnership.flights toscientists, This environmental field workers initiative and linked educators UNESCO’s involved network inprojects of biosphere all over reserves the world. with the International Unionfor Conservation of Nature and the Ramsar ConventionThe on Wetlands Amani Nature to conserve Reserve some in Tanzania, of the world’s where most theAmani unique Butterfly locations. project Being was the largest created, airline was one network, suchproject. Star Alliance This small was the scheme natural encouraged partner for local this initiative peopleto as breed its members butterflies were for able exhibition to donate around flights the to world,helping scientists, them field to workers earn an and income educators from the involved forest infar projects beyond all their over expectations, the world. without exploiting itsresources. It’s amazing how a few small butterflieshave The Amani managed Nature to build Reserve bridges in Tanzania, between where local thepeople Amani Butterfly and their project environment. was created, was one suchproject. This small scheme encouraged local peopleWatch to breed this butterflies story and for four exhibition others that around were the world,made helping in them partnership to earn with an income National from Geographic the forestat far staralliance.combeyond their expectations, without exploiting itsresources. It’s amazing how a few small butterfliesAnother have managed great to build bridges example between localpeople and their environment.of global collaboration.Watch this story and four others that weremade in partnership with National Geographicat staralliance.comAnother great exampleof global collaboration.

{ Adria Airways }Dobrodošli v letalu Adrie AirwaysSpoštovani potniki, vaše zadovoljstvo je naš uspeh. Da bi bilo potovanje z nami čim bolj prijetno, namdovolite, da vas opozorimo na nekaj napotkov, ki so pomembni za vaše udobje in varnost pred poletom,med letom in po pristanku.Pred poletomEkonomski in poslovni razredNa večini Adrijinih prog izmenično letijo letala tipa Airbus A-319, CanadairRegional Jet CRJ-100/200LR in CRJ-900.Vozovnica za potovanje v poslovnem razredu je izdana po veljavni tarifi zaposlovni razred in velja eno leto z možnostjo rezervacije, plačila in prevzemakadarkoli, omogoča pa tudi druge ugodnosti, kot so: sprememba datumovpotovanja brez doplačila, večja količina brezplačne prtljage, uporaba poslovnihsalonov na letališčih idr.V ekonomskem razredu potujejo potniki z vozovnicami po ekonomskihtarifah, ki so nižje in vsebujejo določene omejitve.Nakup vozovnice prek spletaAdria Airways tudi na mobilnih telefonihVsem uporabnikom pametnih telefonov sporočamo, da si lahko na svojemmobilnem brskalniku nastavijo našo mobilno stran m.adria.si ali pa s skenerjemkod poskenirajo QR kodo.Če skenerja nimajo, si ga lahko naložijo na povezavi http://www.i-nigma.com/Downloadi-nigmaReader.html. Uporabniki iPhona pa to najdejo v iStore.Mobilna stran prinaša: spremljanje statusa letov, informacije o voznem redu,informacije o naših destinacijah in informacije o vremenu na destinacijah.Poleg tega pa na tej strani še lahko najdejo:vodič za potnike, turistični vodnik, naše kontakteter različne povezave do sledenja prtljage, iskanjaposlovnih salonov po letališčih in preverjanjamilj v klubu Miles&More.Seveda pa so tu še novice in najbolj vroče cenovneponudbe vozovnic ter “checkmytrip”, kjerlahko preverijo svoje potovanje.( 120 )Web Check-inV Adrii Airways se zavedamo, da je pri potovanju pogosto dragocena vsakaminuta. Še posebej takrat, kadar nas na poti na letališče ovira gost promet.Web check-in je naša novost, s katero boste prihranili čas pri okencu za prijavona let, saj se nanj lahko prijavite že od doma, z delovnega mesta oziromapovsod, kjer je vzpostavljena internetna povezava. Svoj planirani let lahkoprijavite največ 24 ur in najmanj 60 minut pred poletom. Storitev web checkinje trenutno možna le za določene lete Adrie Airways. V prihodnjih mesecihbomo obstoječim destinacijam postopoma dodajali še nove.Letalsko vozovnico lahko najceneje in hitro rezervirate in kupite na Adrijinihspletnih straneh www.adria.si. To velja le za polete na Adrijinih letih. Nakupprek interneta je zaščiten z varnostnim certifikatom. Elektronske vozovniceprejme potnik po elektronski pošti.V primeru, da potrebujete letalsko vozovnico, kjer bodo vključeni tudidrugi prevozniki, vas prosimo, da pokličete naš Klicni center za rezervacije inprodajo letalskih vozovnic na telefonski številki: 386 1 369 10 10 ali 080 13 00.Potujte z elektronsko vozovnicoNa vseh rednih poletih slovenskega letalskega prevoznika je možno leteti zelektronsko vozovnico.Potnik dobi ob nakupu potniški kupon, ki velja kot račun, in načrt poti(itinerar) v ovitku Adrie Airways. Dokument lahko prejme tudi na svoj elektronskinaslov in ga natisne sam. To dokumentacijo mora imeti s seboj vesčas potovanja. Pri okencu za prijavo na let se identificira s potnim listom aliosebno izkaznico. Uslužbenec izda potniku vstopni kupon za let, s katerim tavstopi v letalo. Elektronski način dokumentiranja prodaje zagotavlja sprotenvpogled v dogajanje z vozovico, hiter prenos podatkov in manjše možnostizlorab. Najpomembnejše pri tem pa je, da so potnikovi kuponi za let shranjeniv elektronski obliki in tako varni pred izgubo.Omejitve pri vnosu živil v EUPotnikom svetujemo, da pred potovanjem preverijo seznam artiklov, ki jihje mogoče vnesti na območje Evropske skupnosti. Strog nadzor nad uvozommesa, mleka, rib, lupinarjev ter njihovih izdelkov je nujen za zaščito ljudi inživali pred boleznimi, ki se lahko prenašajo s temi živili.V primeru, da carinska služba pri rutinskem pregledu osebne prtljage ugotoviprisotnost nedovoljenih živil živalskega izvora, le-ta zaseže. Informativniletak “Kaj prinesti domov?” vam je na voljo na naši spletni strani.Več informacij lahko dobite na Glavnem uradu VURS-a ali na njihovi spletnistrani www.vurs.gov.si v poglavju Javne objave/Uvoz živil za osebno rabo.Ročna prtljagaZaradi vaše varnosti in udobja vas vljudno prosimo, da upoštevate mednarodnapravila, ki potniku dovoljujejo imeti pri sebi en kos ročne prtljage vvelikosti 55 x 40 x 20 cm in z največjo težo osem kilogramov.Ročno prtljago namestite v za to namenjeni predal nad sedežem, težjekose pa, če je le mogoče, shranite pod sedež pred sabo. Priporočamo vam, dapredal s prtljago pazljivo odpirate, saj se lahko med poletom predmeti v njempremaknejo.Na letalih CRJ oddajte večjo ročno prtljago pred letalom. Tam jo takoj poizstopu iz letala tudi prevzemite.Varnostna pravilaEvropska unija (EU) je v letu 2006 sprejela nova varnostna pravila. Ta omejujejokoličino tekočin, ki jo lahko vzamete s seboj na letalo.V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate samo majhne količine tekočin, kimorajo biti shranjene v posamičnih posodah z največjo prostornino 100

{ Adria Airways }Adria Airways Welcomes You Aboard( 122 )Dear passengers, your satisfaction is our success. In order to ensure that your Adria flight is as pleasantas possible, allow us to draw your attention to certain points that are important for your comfort and safetybefore take-off, during the flight and after landing.Before take-offEconomy and business classThe majority of Adria routes are served by the following aircraft: Airbus A319,Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-100/200LR and CRJ-900.A business-class ticket is issued according to the current business-classtariff and is valid for one year. The ticket can be booked, paid for and pickedup at any time and includes other advantages such as changing the date oftravel without additional charge, a larger free luggage allowance, the use ofbusiness lounges at airports, etc.Economy class is for passengers with economy-class tickets, which arecheaper and carry certain restrictions.Online ticketingThe cheapest and quickest way to book a flight and buy a ticket is to visitAdria's website at www.adria.si. This only applies to flights operated byAdria. Online purchases are protected by a security certificate. Passengersreceive their electronic tickets via e-mail.If you require a ticket that will also include other carriers, please contactour Call Centre for Reservations and Ticket Sales on: 386 1 369 10 10 or 080 13 00.Travel with an electronic ticketYou can travel with an electronic ticket on all Adria Airways scheduled flights.On purchasing a ticket, passengers receive a passenger coupon and itinerary inan Adria Airways cover. You can also receive the document via e-mail and printit yourself. You must keep this document with you throughout the journey. Atthe check-in, present your passport or identity card. The check-in personnel willissue you with your boarding pass. Electronic documentation of the ticket salemeans that the ticket status can be verified at any time. It also facilitates rapidtransfer of data and reduces the chance of abuse. Most importantly, there is nodanger of losing the boarding pass, since it is stored in electronic form.check-in service is a new service that lets you save time at the check-in desk:because you can check in from home or office – or anywhere with an Internet connection.You can check in as early as 24 hours and up to 60 minutes before yourscheduled departure time. Web check-in is currently only available on selectedAdria flights. In the coming months new destinations will gradually be added.Restrictions on bringing food into the EUWe advise passengers to check the list of articles that may be brought intothe EU before travelling. Strict controls of the import of meat, milk, fish,shellfish and products derived from them is necessary to protect people andanimals from the diseases that they can transmit.If customs officials discover prohibited foodstuffs of animal origin duringroutine luggage checks, they will be confiscated. The informative leaflet“What to bring home” is available on our website.More information is available from the Veterinary Administration of theRepublic of Slovenia or on its website http://www.vurs.gov.si/ under the sectionPublic Announcements/Import of Foodstuffs for Personal Use.Carry-on luggageFor your safety and comfort, we ask you to observe international rules thatpermit passengers to have one piece of carry-on luggage of a maximum sizeof 55 x 40 x 20 cm and a maximum weight of 8 kg.Carry-on luggage should be placed in the overhead bins. Heavier items maybe stored under the seat in front of you if possible.We recommend that you take care when opening the overhead bins asitems may have moved during the flight and may fall out.If your flight is on a CRJ aircraft, larger items of carry-on luggage must be surrenderedon boarding. They will be returned to you when you leave the aircraft.Adria Airways on mobile phonesTo all smartphone users – we would like to inform you that you can now setour mobile site, m.adria.si, on your mobile browser or scan your QR codewith the code scanner.If you do not have a code scanner, you can download it by clicking the followinglink http://www.i-nigma.com/Downloadi-nigmaReader.html. iPhoneusers can find this in the iStore.The mobile site provides information on the following: flight status, timetables,destinations and weather conditions.In addition, you will also find the following:travellers guide, tourist guide, our contact detailsand various links to: baggage tracking, searchesby airport business lounge, and frequent flyermiles in the Miles & More Club.Of course, you can also find news, the hottestticket price bids and “checkmytrip” where youcan check information on your trip.Web Check-inAt Adria we are aware that every minute is precious when you are travelling.Especially when heavy traffic holds you up on the way to the airport. The webEU airport security rulesIn 2006 the European Union adopted new security rules that restrict theamount of liquids that passengers can take aboard aircraft.You are only allowed to take small quantities of liquids in your hand luggage.These liquids must be in individual containers with a maximum capacityof 100 millilitres each. These containers must be packed in one transparentre-sealable plastic bag of not more than one litre capacity per passenger.Liquids include: water and other drinks, soups, syrups; creams, lotions and

{ Adria Airways }oils; perfumes; sprays; gels, including hair and shower gels; contents of pressurisedcontainers, including shaving foam, other foams and deodorants;pastes, including toothpaste; liquid-solid mixtures; mascara; any other itemof similar consistency.You can still:• pack liquids in bags that you check in – the new rules only affect hand luggage;• carry in your hand luggage medicines and dietary requirements, including babyfoods, for use during the trip. You may be asked for proof that they are needed;• buy liquids such as drinks and perfumes in an EU airport shop when locatedbeyond the point where you show your boarding pass or on board an aircraftoperated by an EU airline. If they are sold in a special sealed bag, do not openit before you are screened – otherwise the contents may be confiscated at thecheckpoint. (If you transfer at an EU airport, do not open the bag before screeningat your airport of transfer, or at the last one if you transfer more than once).If you have any doubts, please ask your airline or travel agent in advance oftravel.During the flightwith remote control, computer printers and other devices emitting electromagneticwaves which could interfere with sensitive aircraft systems.Other electronic devices such as portable computers, CD and DVD playersand pocket calculators may only be used during the flight (if they do notcause a disturbance). They may not be used during take-off and landing.Please check with the cabin crew before using electronic devices and be sureto follow their instructions.Hazardous itemsUnder international safety regulations air passengers may not transport,either on their person or in their luggage, weapons and other hazardousitems such as flammable liquids, compressed or liquefied gas cylinders, highlyinflammable materials, matches (except safety matches), and so on.Comfort and healthFor your comfort, an adjustable air vent and a reading light are located aboveyour seat. There is also a button which you can use to call a member of thecabin crew if necessary.The aircraft is equipped with a first aid kit. During the flight you may feelan uncomfortable pressure in your ears. This is caused by changes in altitudeand the air pressure in the aircraft; swallowing or yawning will help relievethe discomfort.In order to avoid vein problems associated with long flights, we advise youto take frequent walks up and down the cabin and to do stretching exercisesfor the whole body while seated.Alcohol on boardConsuming alcoholic beverages that you have brought on board the aircraftyourself is not permitted. The cabin crew is not allowed to serve alcohol topassengers who show signs of intoxication or to passengers under 18 yearsold. Please bear in mind that because of the lower air pressure during flight,alcohol has a faster and stronger effect than on the ground.( 123 )Safety informationOur cabin crew will give you important safety information before take-off.You will find instructions for emergency procedures in the pocket of the seatin front of you. Since these procedures differ depending on the type of aircraft,we ask you to read the instructions carefully before every flight.During take-off and landing you must fasten your seatbelt. For your ownsafety and comfort we also recommend that you leave it fastened during theflight. After landing, wait in your seat until the aircraft comes to a completestop or until the seatbelt sign is switched off.The captain can issue a passenger who acts inappropriately on the aircraftwith what is called a RED CARD. The red card is intended for anyonewhose behaviour obstructs the work of the cabin crew, who does not observesafety instructions or who threatens the safety and comfort of passengers.Unacceptable behaviour on board an aircraft is a violation of the law. Placingair traffic in jeopardy is a criminal offence in accordance with Article 330 ofthe Criminal Code of the Republic of Slovenia (KZ-1), carrying with it the penaltyof imprisonment.Use of electronic devicesUse of the following devices is not permitted aboard the aircraft: mobilephones (they must be switched off!), radios and televisions, video gamesAfter landingDelayed, lost and damaged luggageIf problems occur with your checked luggage during your journey (also appliesto luggage surrendered on boarding), contact the appropriate service assoon as you arrive at the airport (Lost & Found, Arrival Service, etc.)Passenger Relations CentreAdria's Passenger Relations Centre provides you with news and informationabout our services and can also offer assistance and advice.Passengers can submit complaints or compensation claims, and praise isalways welcome. You can contact the centre in person, in writing, by e-mailto prc@adria.si, and by phoning the free telephone number 080 13 03 if callingfrom Slovenia, +386 1 369 11 33 if calling from outside Slovenia.Rent-a-cars and hotelsWe have recently added two tabs to Adria's website that enables you to booka rent-a-car or hotel accomodation throughout the world at favourable rates.Simply visit www.adria.si, and click on the desired tab. Choose from amongtens of thousands of hotels on every continent, ranging from one-star hotelsto prestigious international hotel chains.Budget Rent-a-Car Slovenia offers Adria Airways customers the best dealson car rental in more than 3,400 destinations in 128 countries!

Adria AirwaysOstale storitve/Other services( 124 )Prevoz tovoraBlagovna služba Adrie Airways odpremi vse pošiljke hitro in kakovostno dovseh letališč po svetu. V sodelovanju z drugimi prevozniki in s pomočjo računalniškopodprtega rezervacijskega sistema spremljamo vsako pošiljko odsprejema do predaje naslovniku.Naša blagovna služba in prodajna zastopništva v tujini vam bodo z veseljempomagala odpremiti oz. dostaviti blago po najhitrejši in cenovno najugodnejšipoti.ADRIA CARGO, Letališče Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana – Prevoz tovora,telefon: 04 259 43 40, faks: 04 202 30 30,e-pošta: jp.cargo@adria.siCargoThe Adria Airways cargo service provides fast, high-quality goods transportto every airport in the world. In conjunction with other carriers, and with thehelp of a computerised booking system, we monitor every item from receptionto delivery.Our goods service and sales offices abroad will be happy to help you dispatchor deliver goods by the fastest and most competitively priced route.ADRIA CARGO, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport – Cargo Transport,Telephone: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Fax: + 386 (04) 202 30 30,e-mail: jp.cargo@adria.siZaposlene v družbi Adria Tehnika odlikuje vrhunsko tehnično znanje,ki temelji na več kot 40-letnih izkušnjah vzdrževanja letal proizvajalcevMcDonnel Douglas, Airbus in Bombardier.Več informacij na spletni strani www.adriatehnika.com.Adria Tehnika maintenance staff have superlative technical know-how derivingfrom more than 40 years' experience in maintaining McDonnell Douglas,Airbus and Bombardier aircraft.For more information visit www.adriatehnika.com.Čarterski prevoziAdria Airways ponuja potnikom, agencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskimprevoznikom poleg svojih rednih linij tudi čarterske polete iz Ljubljane in zvseh drugih (predvsem evropskih) letališč. Z vstopom v Evropsko unijo ponujamoagencijam, podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom tudi polete zvseh drugih evropskih letališč.Odlikujejo nas zlasti prilagodljivost, ažurnost, visoka kakovost in točnostpoletov.E-pošta: charter@adria.siChartersIn addition to its scheduled services, Adria Airways offers charter flightsfrom Ljubljana and other (mainly European) airports to passengers, agencies,companies and other carriers. Now that Slovenia is part of the EuropeanUnion, we can also offer flights from all other European airports to agencies,companies and other carriers.Adria charters offer flexibility, up-to-the-minute services, high quality andpunctuality.E-mail: charter@adria.si

njihov uradni ekskluzivni prevoznik, udeležencem ter organizatorju pa nudimoposebne ugodnosti. Preprosto, učinkovito in prilagojeno potrebam svojih uporabnikovposkrbimo za to, da poteka dogodek uspešno, udeleženci pa prispejo nacilj pravočasno, varno in zanesljivo. Kot članica združenja Star Alliance lahko zavečje mednarodne kongrese zagotovimo produkt »Conventions Plus«, v sklopukaterega postane več članov združenja uradni prevoznik dogodka. Za vse nadaljnjeinformacije smo dosegljivi po elektronski pošti: events@adria.si.Spoznajte letenje v virtualnem svetu z našimi odličnimi inštruktorji.V simulatorju letenja – v 30 minutah za samo 39 EUR (DDV je vključen v ceno)– boste spoznali osnove letenja.Za rezervacijo termina in dodatne informacije o obisku simulatorja pošljitee-mail na naslov: ales.bobnar@adria.si; GSM: +386 (0)41 604 116. Letenje jemožno po plačilu vnaprej in predhodni rezervaciji termina.Več o ponudbi preberite na spletni strani www.adrialetalskasola.si.Official events carrierAs a modern company we understand the needs of modern business, which increasinglytakes place in the global arena. For this reason we are ideally positionedto work with organisers of conferences, congresses, fairs and other internationalevents by becoming their official exclusive carrier and offering discounted faresand other advantages to participants and organisers. With a simple, efficientapproach adapted to the needs of our customers, we make sure that the eventruns smoothly, with participants arriving at their destination on time, safely andreliably. As a Star Alliance member we offer the Conventions Plus service for majorinternational conferences, which effectively makes all Star Alliance members theofficial carrier for the event. For more information write to us at: events@adria.si.Flight SchoolLearn to fly in a virtual world with our excellent instructors.In our flight simulator you can learn the basics of flying in just 30 minutesfor a mere 39 euros (VAT included).To book a session and for more information about a visit to the simulator,e-mail us at the following address: ales.bobnar@adria.si; GSM: +386 (0)41 604116. Booking essential. Payment in advance.For more information visit www.adrialetalskasola.si.Uradni prevoznik dogodkovKot sodobna družba razumemo potrebe poslovnega vsakdanjika, ki se vse pogostejeodvija v globalnem prostoru. Zato stopamo naproti tistim, ki organizirajokonference, kongrese, sejme ali druge mednarodne dogodke, tako da postanemoKlubi zvestobe/Loyalty ClubsAvio taxi - Panoramski letiZ letalom Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T s tremi sedeži za potnike lahkopoletite do vseh večjih mest s športnimi letališči v Sloveniji in do bližnjihletališč sosednjih držav.Za lete se lahko naročite po telefonu: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi)ali 041 636 420 (tel. št. pilota).Aviotaxi – Panoramic flightsOur Piper Turbo Arrow PA-28R-201T, with its three passenger seats, can flyyou to all major towns with sports airfields in Slovenia and to nearby airportsin neighbouring countries.To book flights, call us on: 04 23 63 460 (Adria Airways Aviotaxi)or 041 636 420 (pilot)( 125 )Partnerska kartica Diners Club-AdriaPotniki s stalnim prebivališčem v Republiki Sloveniji se lahko odločite za skupnoplačilno kartico Diners Cluba in Adrie Airways. Z uporabo partnerske plačilnekartice Diners Club-Adria lahko zbirate milje in koristite nagradne vozovnicein druge ugodnosti v programu Miles&More. Vsakporabljen evro vam bo prinesel 1 miljo. Dogovor, sklenjenmed Adrio in klubom Miles&More, prinaša imetnikompartnerske kartice pomembno dodatno ugodnost: milje,zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria, nezapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsakmesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnavate v roku. Karticapa vam odpira vrata in nudi brezplačne storitve tudi v večkot 130 letaliških salonih po vsem svetu, kjer boste lahko vmiru počakali na odhod svojega letala, brezplačno prelistaličasopis, se osvežili z napitki, telefonirali ali poslali faks.Informacije: telefon 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.siDiners Club-Adria Partner CardPassengers with permanent residence in Slovenia can obtain the joint Diners Cluband Adria Airways charge card. By using the Diners Club – Adria Airways chargecard, you can collect miles and enjoy bonus tickets and otherprivileges in the Miles&More programme. Every euro spentwill give you one mile. The agreement between Adria andMiles&More brings partner card holders an important additionalbenefit: miles collected through purchases using theDiners Club-Adria payment card will not lapse if you havebeen a member for at least three months, you use the cardfor at least one purchase each month and you settle youraccount balance on time. At the same time, the card opensthe door to free services in more than 130 airport loungesaround the world, where you can await your departure in tranquillity, browsethrough newspapers, enjoy a refreshing drink, make phone calls or send faxes.Information: Telephone: 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si

Adria AirwaysStar Alliance( 126 )Star Alliance partnerstvoAdria Airways je letalski prevoznik z več kot 49-letnimi izkušnjami v čarterskemin rednem prometu. Uspešno sodeluje v evropskih integracijskihtokovih in se partnersko povezuje z drugimi letalskimi prevozniki. Decembra2004 se je Adria kot regionalna članica pridružila največjemu globalnemuzdruženju letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceu, z januarjem 2010 pa je napredovalav polnopravno članico združenja.Potnikom tako zagotavljamo vse prednosti, ki jih prinaša izboljšan dostopdo svetovnega omrežja prevoznikov, združenih v Star Allianceu. V povezavis partnerji vam omogočamo dostop do svetovne mreže poletov 27 letalskihprevoznikov, ki z več kot 21.000 leti dnevno povezujejo 1160 destinacij v 181državah.Poleg tega so vam na voljo ugodnosti, ki jih ponujajo prevozniki člani StarAlliancea, kot so: prijava na let do končne destinacije, priznavanje statusa,vstop v letališke salone ter zbiranje in uveljavljanje točk ali milj v okviru programovza pogoste potnike. Za številne destinacije po svetu so vam na voljopotovanja po ugodnejših cenah in posebna ponudba Star Alliancea Roundthe World – potovanje okoli sveta. Za več informacij smo vam na voljo nanaših prodajnih mestih.Biosferne povezaveStar Alliance ima novo kampanjo blagovne znamke, v kateri predstavlja svojopobudo »Biosferne povezave«. Kampanja poteka od marca do junija in vključujetiskane oglase, filme, TV-oddaje, spletno oglaševanje, družbene medijein komunikacijske poti članic.Pobuda Biosferne povezave je bila ustanovljena leta 2006 in podpira enegaod glavnih načel združenja Star Alliance omogočiti potnikom potovanja povsem svetu, v tem primeru znanstvenikom, raziskovalcem in sodelujočim vprojektu.Sedanja kampanja je bila pripravljena v sodelovanju z National Geographic,izpostavlja pa pet mednarodnih projektov: Arhipelag Abrolhos v Braziliji,Laguna Chilika v Indiji, tropski deževni gozd Vzhodna Usambara v Tanzaniji,Hagia Sophia v Istanbulu v Turčiji in Vrnitev sivega volka v Narodni parkYellowstone v ZDA.Star Alliance posreduje vsebine po najpogosteje obiskanih poteh in polegtega tudi sprašuje ljudi o njihovem mnenju o posameznih projektih. Projekteje mogoče oceniti na strani www.staralliance.com, novih straneh StarAlliancea na Facebooku (www.facebook.com/staralliance) in YouTubu (http://www.youtube.com/user/staralliancenetwork) ter na spletni strani NationalGeographic.V kampanji bo po svojih komunikacijskih poteh sodelovalo tudi 27 letalskihprevoznikov, ki so člani združenja Star Alliance.Star Alliance partnershipAdria Airways has more than 49 years of experience in operating both charterand scheduled flights. We are successfully participating in the process ofEuropean integration and have established partnership arrangements withother air carriers. In December 2004 Adria joined the Star Alliance, the world'slargest airline alliance, as a regional member and later became a full memberin January 2010.Our customers now benefit from improved access to the world-wide StarAlliance network. In connection with our partners, we offer access to a globalnetwork of flights on 27 airlines, which offer more than 21,000 flights dailyserving 1,160 destinations in 181 countries.Moreover, our passengers enjoy customer benefits offered by Star Alliancemember carriers, such as through check-in, status recognition, lounge access,frequent-flyer accrual and redemption. Reduced-price flights are available fornumerous destinations throughout the world, along with the Star AllianceRound-the-World special offer. We will be glad to provide details at any Adriasales outlet.Biosphere ConnectionsStar Alliance has launched its new brand campaign featuring the Alliance’s“Biosphere Connections” initiative. The campaign runs from March through toJune and includes print advertising, films, TV, online, social media and memberairline communication channels.Biosphere Connections was established in 2006 and underpins one of StarAlliance’s founding principles - connecting people from all corners of the globeby facilitating world-wide travel. Through this global cooperation, the respectiveorganisations receive travel support from Star Alliance member carriersto foster the knowledge exchange between scientists, researchers and projectworkers.The current campaign, produced in association with National Geographic,highlights five international projects which have benefited from this support:Abrolhos Archipelago in Brazil, Chilika Lagoon in India, East Usambara tropicalrainforest in Tanzania, the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Turkey and the reintroductionof the Grey Wolf to the Yellowstone National Park in the USA.Making the fullest use of the social media environment, Star Alliance is notonly sharing content in the most commonly frequented channels, but is alsoasking people for their opinions on the various projects. These can be rated atwww.staralliance.com, the newly launched Star Alliance Facebook (www.facebook.com/staralliance)and YouTube pages (http://www.youtube.com/user/staralliancenetwork) as well as through the National Geographic website itself.The 27 Star Alliance member airlines will also be featuring the new campaignin their own communication channels.

Dobrodošli v Miles & MoreRazlog več, da poletite z Adrio AirwaysAdria Airways nudi svojim pogostim potnikom program Miles & More in jims tem omogoča pestrost zbiranja in uporabljanja milj v celotni mreži poletovčlanic Star Alliancea. Sem spadajo tudi vse redne proge Adrie Airways.Welcome to Miles & MoreOne more reason for flying Adria AirwaysAdria Airways is offering its frequent flyers the Miles & More programme,which makes available a variety of ways to collect and use miles on the entireflight network of Star Alliance members. All Adria Airways scheduled routesare included in this network.Prijava v klubV klub se lahko prijavite s prijavnico, ki jo dobite na vseh prodajnih mestihin v letalih Adrie Airways, ali pa to storite na naslovu www.adria.si na našihspletnih straneh.Zbiranje miljMilje lahko zbirate na celotni mreži poletov članic Star Alliancea. Dodatnemilje lahko zbirate z bivanjem v hotelih, z najemom vozil, telefoniranjem,nakupi v določenih trgovinah in z uporabo kreditnih kartic.Člani Miles & More v Sloveniji bodo milje pridobili tudi s plačilno karticoDiners Club-Adria. Vsak nakup v vrednosti 1 EUR vam bo prinesel eno miljo.Milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club - Adria, ne zapadejo, česte vsaj tri mesece član, opravite z njo vsak mesec vsaj en nakup in računeporavnavate v roku.Poleg zbiranja milj imajo člani Miles & More še dodatne ugodnosti, kot soprednost na čakalnih listah, prevoz večje količine prtljage idr.Veljavnost zbranih milj je tri leta.Koriščenje miljZbrane milje lahko uporabite za številne nagrade: brezplačne vozovnicena progah članic Star Alliancea, potovanje v višjem razredu, počitniškapotovanja, nakup različnih artiklov.Članske karticeZ včlanitvijo postanete član kluba in imetnik osnovne kartice. Doseženoštevilo zahtevanih milj, zbranih v koledarskem letu, zagotavlja višje nivoječlanstva, kot so: srebrni član ali Frequent Traveller, zlati član ali Senator inHON Circle Member. Višji nivo članstva vam prinese posebne ugodnosti.Člansko kartico imejte vedno pri roki, potrebujete jo za beleženje milj,uveljavljanje ugodnosti in naročanje nagrad.Dobrodošli na poletih Adrie Airways, članice združenja Star Alliance!Informacije o zbranih miljah, novostih v klubu, naročila nagradnih vozovnicin drugih nagrad v klicnem centru Miles & More dobite na tel. št. (0)40 747440 ali na naslovu www.adria.si. Navesti morate člansko številko in PINštevilko. V delovnem času od 8. do 18. ure vam bodo informacije na voljo vslovenskem jeziku, kasneje v angleškem ali nemškem.Club registrationYou can join the club by filling in the registration form available at all salesoffices and on board Adria Airways aircraft, or by registering online at ourwebsite, www.adria.si.Collecting milesYou can collect miles within the entire Star Alliance network. You can alsocollect additional miles through hotel stays, car rental, telephone calls,purchases at selected shops and using your credit cards.Miles & More members in Slovenia also receive miles when you use theDiners Club-Adria charge card. Every euro charged earns you 1 mile. Milescollected through purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card willnot lapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use thecard for at least one purchase each month and you settle your account balanceon time.In addition to collecting miles, Miles & More members enjoy additionalbenefits such as priority on waiting lists, excess baggage allowance and so on.Miles are valid for three years.Using milesYou can use the miles you have accumulated for various benefits: free ticketson Star Alliance member routes, upgrades to business class, holiday traveland various purchases.Membership cardsYou become a club member as soon as you join. Accumulating the requirednumber of miles in a calendar year leads to higher levels of membership:silver member or Frequent Traveller, or gold member or Senator, or HONCircle Member. A higher level of membership offers you special benefits.Always have your membership card on hand, because you’ll need it toregister miles, claim benefits and request awards.Welcome aboard Adria Airways, a Star Alliance member!For information on miles, Club news, to order free tickets or other benefits,call the Miles & More call centre at +386 40 747 440 or visit our website atwww.adria.si. You’ll be asked for your membership number and PIN. We’llbe happy to take your calls in Slovene from 8 am to 6 pm, and service is alsoavailable in English and German outside these hours.( 127 )

Prodaja vozovnic in rezervacijeTicket Offices and BookingKlicni center: telefon 00386 (0)1 36 91 010Brezplačna številka v Sloveniji: 080 13 00www.adria.si( 128 )Adria AirwaysZgornji Brnik 130h4210 Brnik - AerodromTel.: +386 (0)1 36 91 010E-mail: booking@adria.siPoslovalnice / Sales offices:LJUBLJANAGosposvetska 61000 LjubljanaKlicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00Tel.: +386 (0)1 23 91 910Fax: +386 (0)1 23 21 668E-mail: adr.gosposvetska@adria.siLetališče Jožeta Pučnika LJUBLJANALJUBLJANA Jože Pučnik AirportAdria Airways Sales OfficeKlicni center: 36 91 010, 080 13 00Tel.: +386 (0)4 25 94 245Fax: +386 (0)4 23 63 461E-mail: adr.prodaja@adria.siAMSTERDAMAdria Airways, NetherlandsP.O. Box 756441118 ZR Schiphol TriportTel.: +31 20 625 11 22Fax: +32 2 753 23 37E-mail: adr.amstown@adria.siAirport Ticketing DeskAmsterdam Schiphol AirportGlobeground Ticketing DeskTerminal 3, opposite check-in row 20Tel.: +31 20 79 52 600Fax: +31 20 79 52 601E-mail: adr.amsariport@adria.siATHENSAdria Airways, General Sales AgentK.G. KOMPAS GREECE, 572 VouliagmenisAve & Karaiskaki, 164 51 AthinaArgiroupoliTel.: + 30 21 09 94 7263,Fax: + 30 21 09 94 7288,E-mail: adr.athens@adria.siBANJALUKABosnia and HerzegovinaSKY SRPSKATel.: +397 (0)51 220 330Mobile: +387 (0)65 321 817E-mail: office@sky srpska.aeroBARCELONAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentKompas SpainC/ Paris, 162-164 Entlo 2a08036 BarcelonaTel.: + 34 93 246 67 77Fax: +34 93 245 41 88E-mail: adr.barcelona@adria.siBELGRADEAdria Airways Representative OfficeOKI AIR INTERNATIONALAirport “Nikola Tesla”11180 Belgrade 59Tel/Fax: +381 11 2286457,2286458, 2097457E-mail: okiairbeg@oki.me,adr.belgrade@adria.siBRUSSELSAdria AirwaysBrussels Airport – Box 41930 ZaventemTel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 336Fax: +32 (0)2 75 32 337E-mail: adr.brussels@adria.siAdria Airways Ticket DeskAirport Zaventem / BrusselsTel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 337COPENHAGENAdria AirwaysRepresentative and InformationAntello AB, Tings Gatan 2256 56 Helsingborg, SWEDENTel.: +46 (0)42 28 47 78Fax: +46 (0)42 14 47 78Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskCopenhagen AirportTerminal 2, Floor 2, Office 2302770 Kastrup, DenmarkTel. & Fax: +45 (0)32 51 59 59Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.siFRANKFURTAdria AirwaysFrankfurt AirportTerminal 1, Building 201Room 201. 4043/4044P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am MainTel.: +49 (0)69 269 56 720, 269 56 721Fax: +49 (0)69 269 56 730E-mail: adr.frankfurt@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskFrankfurt Airport, Terminal 1, Hall BSales Desk 307P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am MainTel. +49 (0)69 269 56 722ISTANBULAdria AirwaysGeneral Sales AgentOrdu Cad No. 206/134470 Laleli, IstanbulTel.: +90 (0)212 51 24 232Fax: +90 (0)212 51 24 234, 51 25 436E-mail: adr.istanbul@adria.siKIEVGeneral Sales Agent: AVIAREPS -town officeChervonoarmijska st. 9/2Office number 201004 Kiev, UkraineTel.: +38 044 287 07 47Fax: +38 044 490 65 04E-mail: jp.ukraine@aviareps.comAdria AirwaysBorispol International AirportTicketing agent: AquavitaTel.: +38 044 230 00 49, 230 00 50Fax: +38 044 230 00 48E-mail: adr.kievairport@adria.siLONDON, MANCHESTER,DUBLINAdria Airways - London Gatwick AirportTicketing Agent: SkybreakNorth Terminal, Zone A, Ticket DeskTel.: +44 (0) 1293 507 182Fax: +44 (0) 1293 507 144Reservations: Tel: +44 (0) 1293 555 707E-mail: info@adria.siMOSCOWAdria AirwaysDerbenevskaja 4113 114 MoscowTel.: +7 495 727 08 85Fax: +7 495 727 08 88E-mail: adr.moscow@adria.siAdria AirwaysSheremetyevo AirportTicket office Bohemia2nd floor of terminal FTicketing +7 903 5613645,e-mail: apt-svo@mail.ru,fax +7 495 578 8197Supervisor on duty +7 916 267 2395,e-mail: svokkjp@adria.siMUNICHProsimo, obrnite se na predstavništvov Frankfurtu.Please contact our office in Frankfurt.PARISAdria Airways94 rue Saint Lazare75009 ParisStopnišče A, II. nadstropjeStaircase A, 2nd floorTel.: +33 (0)1 47 42 95 00Fax: +33 (0)1 47 42 00 67E-mail: adr.paris@adria.siPODGORICAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentOki Air InternationalIvana Vujoševića 4681000 PodgoricaTel.: +382 (0) 20 201 201Tel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 241 154Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.siAdria Airways Ticket OfficePodgorica AirportOKI AIR INTERNATIONALTel. & Fax: +382 (0) 20 623 232Mobil: +382 (0)67 24 11 54E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.siPRISTINAAdria representative office – town officePal Palucij 3, 38000 PristinaTel.: +381 (0)38 54 34 11Tel. & Fax: +381 (0)38 54 32 85E-mail: adr.pristina@adria.siTicket issue at the airportTel.: +381 (0) 38 548 437Fax: +381 (0) 38 548 437Mobile: +377 44 501 241SARAJEVOAdria AirwaysRepresentative and InformationFerhadija 2371000 SarajevoTel.: +387 (0)33 23 21 25, 23 21 26Fax: +387 (0)33 23 36 92E-mail: adria@bih.net.baAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskSarajevo International AirportTel. & Fax: +387 33 464 331E-mail: adr.sarajevo@adria.siSKOPJEAdria AirwaysGeneral Sales Agent AAM dooelUlica Dame Gruev, Gradski Zid, blok 4/81000 SkopjeTel.: +389 (0)2 31 17 009, 32 29 975Fax: +389 (0)2 31 65 531E-mail: adr.skopje@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket OfficeSkopje AirportTel. +389 (0)2 25 50 133STOCKHOLMAdria AirwaysRepresentative and InformationAntello AB, Tings Gatan 2256 56 Helsingborg, SwedenTel.: +46 (0)42 28 4778Fax: +46 0)42 14 4778Mobil.: +46 708 28 4778E-mail: adr.stockholm@adria.siTEL AVIVAdria AirwaysMirus Services (1996) Ltd.General Sales Agent8 Mendele Str.Tel Aviv 63432Tel.: +972 (0)3 52 23 161Fax: +972 (0)3 52 40 895Adria Airways Ticket DeskBen Gurion AirportLaufer Aviation Ltd.Tel.: +972 (0)3 97 74 300Fax: +972 (0)3 97 12 022TIRANAAdria Airways AlbaniaEuropian Trade CenterStreet bajram Curri No. 19Town OfficeTel.: +355 4 227 4666Tel. & Fax: +355 4 227 2666Mobil Off.: +355 6 94076614AirportTel. & Fax: +355 4 238 1911Mobil in Rinas Apt.: +355 6 94076611E-mail: adr.tirana@adria.siVIENNAReservations and purchaseAdria Airways StationA-1300 Vienna AirportTel.: +43 (1) 700 736 913Fax: +43 (1) 700 736 914E-mail: adr.vienna@adria.siWARSAWAdria Airways, General Sales AgentGLOBAIR Polska Sp z o.o.Marszalkowska St. 28,office number 1U-35Warsaw 00-576Tel: +48 (022) 696 85 20Fax: +48 ( 022) 696 85 24Mobile: +48 696 49 14 77E-mail: adr.warsaw@adria.siwww.globairgroup.comZAGREBAdria AirwaysPraška 910000 ZagrebTel.: +385 (0)1 48 10 011, 48 10 016Fax: +385 (0)1 48 10 008E-mail: adr.zagreb@adria.siZÜRICHAdria AirwaysLoewenstrasse 54/II.8001 ZürichTel.: +41 (0)44 212 63 93Fax: +41 (0)44 212 52 66E-mail: adr.zurich@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket OfficeZürich AirportTerminal B-2-521Tel.: +41 (0)43 81 64 437