1qvGUjy

PRESS KITPRESS CONTACTJULIETTE SEBILLEJ.SEBILLE @ CUIRAPARIS.COM

PRESSKITEXHIBITORS, FORUMS,EVENTS, TRENDSTRENDS AW 15/16 © AGENCE POLYPHÈMEFORUM INCUBE © RFBG CONSEILTRANSLATION © LANGUEDOC TRANSLATIONPRESS CONTACTJULIETTE SEBILLEJ.SEBILLE @ CUIRAPARIS.COMAW15/162

CONTENT21 EVENTS4 THE SHOW4 THE SHOW5 THE SHOW IN FIGURES22 INCUBE23 THE INNOVATIONS25 BESPOKE26 LAËTITIA FORTIN27 ATELIER FRÉMY28 JULIETTE ARNAULT29 CRAFT THE LEATHER30 EXHIBITION6 FASHION6 TRENDS AW15/167 MORE & MORE8 MORE ECCENTRICITY10 MORE NEURONS12 MORE MYSTERY14 MORE CUDDLES16 MORE INSOLENCE18 MORE PERMANENCE20 COLOUR RANGE3

THESHOWTHE SHOW P.4 > P.5

THE SHOW IN FIGURESTHE SHOWTHE SHOWIN FIGURES432 EXHIBITORS23 COUNTRIESBREAKDOWN % BY SECTOR55,5 Finished Leathers8 Textiles and Synthetics7,5 Components7 Exotic Leathers7 Furs5 Leather Garments4 Services, Press, Associations3,5 Raw hides and Skins2,5 ChemicalsBREAKDOWN % BY COUNTRYTHE TOP THREE54 Italy | 15,5 France | 9,5 Spain13,5 OTHER EUROPEAN COUNTRIESTurkey, Portugal, Germany, Netherlands,England, Belgium, Iceland, Denmark,Switzerland, Greece, Sweden7,5 OTHER INTERNATIONAL COUNTRIESUnited States, South Africa, New Zealand,Brazil, Chili, Singapore, Tunisia, India,PakistanTHE SHOW 5

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16SPIRIT OFMATERIALSEnrichMaterials are not to be outdone and are luxurious and surprising.They combine prints and ornaments and accept additions of all kind.Leathers are shimmering and glistening, velvety, printed, embroideredand decorated.Embroideries, hand paintings or multi-material patches embellish skinsthat are often designed as one-off items.Furs are flamboyant, crazy and ostentatious.SAGA FURS - COLORTEX - ISISI - TEINTURIERS DE PARIS - FEDI SILVANO - BONAUDOECCENTRICITY 9

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16MORENEURONS© AGENCE POLYPHÈME- FRANZ ERHARD WALTHER COURTESY GALERIE JOCELYN WOLLF © AGENCE POLYPHÈME - JÉRÉMIE BÔLE DU CHAUMONTWhere we adapt“It’s time to challenge,” time to reinvent oneself.The travelling spirit gives rise to a lifestyleof mobility. Agitated by a desire for communityand driven by the longing to build a sharingsociety, we throw design, art and fashion togetherin a large container.We will find our “home sweet home” there,but it’s a work in progress with multi-purposefurniture, nomadic objects, transformableclothing, versatile bags, take your home with youlike a snail.Colours aresingle blocks,travellers indivisible fromthe materials;truck greyand pneumatic taupeare underlined by dock greenand container red.NEURONS10

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16SPIRIT OFMATERIALSInnovateMaterials are consistent, voluminous and flexible as if created by Dunlopand produced by Goodyear.They are “intelligent,” dense and compact, supple and rubbery,more than matt, honeycombed and foam-like.We will juxtapose neoprene and ultra-fine skins, associate feltsand soft grains. Pleats and creases are a pretext for building blocks,for designing landscapes.We invent new processes to try out unusual and savvy pairings, luxuriousagglomerations, new composites.SOYDAN - MUHAMMAD SHAFI TANNERIES - ISISI - CONCERIA TREND - MEGISSERIE LAURETNEURONS 11

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16MOREMYSTERY© AGENCE POLYPHÈME - JÉRÉMIE BÔLE DU CHAUMONT© AGENCE POLYPHÈME - DARIUSZ KLIMCZAKWhere we fantasiseThe place we would like to be does not exist.We dream of discovering the ultimate remote locations, embarking on abyssal orspace tourism, inventing a phantasmagorical world.“Another World” where the beautiful meets the strange, a world of amphibiousbeings.Life is a dream, where we descend to the depths of the Earth,or we drift weightlessly in the cumuli of limbo.Sibylline colours are deep or transparent;dreary seaweed, blackened blood, spongy yellow, crab meat.MYSTERY 12

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16SPIRIT OFMATERIALSAstonishMaterials are inspired by the depths of the oceans, scratched from theearth’s crust, glistening, reflective, changeable, random.Materials in flux, strange moulds.Warped and battered surfaces are imperfectly emerised.Undulating mother-of-pearl, freshwater pearls, articulated scales.A reverberating mineral aspect.Stones from lagoons covered in sticky seaweed.Beetle shells, the skeletons of freshwater fish.Textures are murky, sticky, gummy.NOVALPINA - FEDI SILVANO - OFFICINA DELLE PELLI - MARMARA DERIMYSTERY 13

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16MORECUDDLESWhere we pamper ourselvesBring tenderness to minimalism,tactile to the ordinary, make upsets inaudible.Build a felted shell,move within a bubble of cotton wool.Dress in a pillow of chick feathers.Resurrect Care Bears, wander around in pyjamas,stroke the cat.Blend the artefact with the natural,merge naivety and creativity.Superimpose simplicity and preciosity.© AGENCE POLYPHÈME - JÉRÉMIE BÔLE DU CHAUMONT© AGENCE POLYPHÈME - JÉRÉMIE BÔLE DU CHAUMONTDelicate or grating shades,whitened, grey-washed.Woolly pastels; sugary pink,spun sugar white,acidic yellow, regressive blue,downy brown.CUDDLES 14

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16SPIRITOF MATERIALSProtectTender and comforting materials, the product of a child’s imagination,silently luxurious.Knitwear and dipped lamb form gentle shells, hair and feathers imitatesoft eiderdown.Multi-layer quilting creates warm protection, an ultra-light cosy nest.Geometry is shrinking and inspires mini-designs, micro-perforations,invisible plumetis.Chamois leather, washed deer, honeyed felt, silky pony, elastic weft,childlike furs, sheepskins, curly stuffed animals, coloured rabbit.Pastries glazed.FEDERICO ALBARELLO - YVES SALOMON - FEDI SILVANO - COLORTEXCUDDLES 15

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16MOREINSOLENCEWhere we couldn’t care lessMischief and provocation,a ‘punk attitude’ that exacerbates a tastefor the offbeat, raising the forbiddenand derision into rules of life,delighting in rewriting the codes.A new ‘trash-luxe’ character emerges,denying fashion to better manipulate it,for whom the unusual becomes usual.© AGENCE POLYPHÈMEMustard goes to the headof pseudo purple,green refuses to be interpreted.Pink is off-colour,yellow is hirsute.Mao red is buriedunder sequins.© AGENCE POLYPHÈME - JÉRÉMIE BÔLE DU CHAUMONTINSOLENCE 16

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16SPIRIT OFMATERIALSProvokeMaterials are mistreated: torn, ragged,broken down, sunken, worn,striped with unusual colours.In the grip of dandyism,they are inspired by fallen aristocracy.Their precious finish deteriorates over time.We risk uncertain combinations of sheepskin and devoré linen,of precious skins and throwaway textiles.Carpets and tapestries let their worn threads be seen.Paisley and Persian designs are overprinted and faded.Tough skins, sometimes oiled, sometimes washed, adopt the look of agangly loser, a sophisticated hobo.Furs are trashy, inclined to hysteria, dishevelledand unkempt.ENSARI DERI - ABIP - L.I.P - BENERICCETI - AMERICAN SUPPLY - MEGISSERIE LAURETINSOLENCE 17

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16MOREPERMANENCE© AGENCE POLYPHÈME - JÉRÉMIE BÔLE DU CHAUMONT© AGENCE POLYPHÈMEWhere we wonderIs it reasonable to make beauty permanent?Is it contemporary to hope for a breathing space in this frenzy that possesses us?Is it possible to turn to neo-classicism and antique references to breathe new modernity into artand fashion?Is it desirable to learn to sketch again by tapping on your tablet?Is it enough to ask these questions but not answer them?Between shade and light, between very pale and very dark.Timeless colours; storm purple, aurora borealis,charcoal black, alpaca yellow.PERMANENCE 18

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16SPRIRIT OFMATERIALSEndureSobriety of materials.Contrast between the ultra-smooth and often ultra-matt monochromes,moderate glazing and subtle gradations of colour.Quiet grains abandon the traditional two-tone finish and prefer themonochrome look.They seize the opportunity to renew finishes, enlivened by savvy doses ofshine.Box leathers look hand-polished, dusted grains have an antique patina.Perforations and laser cut-outs follow an irregular rhythm.The very refined scales of exotic skins are small and discreet.Furs are perfect, shaved minks, bleached astrakhan, combed castor.NOVALPINA - SOYDAN - BODIN JOYEUX - RUSSO DI CASSANDRINO - SOUBACHPERMANENCE 19

FASHIONTRENDS AW 15/16COLOURS AW15/16ECCENTRICITYNEURONSMYSTERYEUGÈNE - 19-4008 TPXCOMPOSITE - 14-0000 TPXVERT LUGUBRE - 19-4906 TPXOSCAR - 19-6050 TPXCONTAINER - 18 -1454 TPXCHAIR DE TOURTEAU - 14-1307 TPXGATSBY - 19-3642 TPXDOCK - 15-6311 TPXBLACKEN BLOOD - 19-1106 TPXVIVIANNE - 16-1359 TPXTRUCK - 18-5105 TPXJAUNE SPONGIEUX - 14-0846 TPXBRUMMEL - SCRATCHED GOLDROULOTTE - 16-0632 TPX/15- 0628 TPXROUGE TANGARA - 19-1718 TPXBARBARA - 17-3323 TPXPNEUMATIQUE - 18 -1304 TPXCUDDLESINSOLENCEPERMANENCEALBUMINE - 11-0107 TPXJAUNE COLÈRE - 19-0850 TPXGLAISE - 18-1210 TPXBABYGROS - 13-0640 TPXROUGE MAO - 19-1555 TPX/19-1557 TPXALPAGA - 17-1128 TPXBARBE À PAPA - 18-4036 TPXCHANGING GREEN -18-0130 TPXORAGE - 19-3915 TPXROUDOUDOU - 16-1235 TPXROSE ABIMÉ - 18-1512 TPXMOLESKINE - 19-0820 TPXLOUKOUM - 16-0421 TPXBLEU MOQUEUR - 18-3833 TPXBORÉAL - 15-4703 TPXTEADY BEAR - 18-1312 TPXFUSAIN - 19-0000 TPXCOLOUR RANGE 20

EVENTSEVENTS P.21 > P.31

EVENTSINCUBEINCUBEINCUBE PROVIDES INFORMATION ABOUTNEW AREAS OF DEVELOPMENT ANDINNOVATION.IT TAKES VISITORS ON A VOYAGEOF DISCOVERY AND REFLECTION THROUGH ASERIES OF BOLD AND RELEVANT MATERIALEXAMPLES.INCUBE PRESENTS A SELECTIONOF SAMPLES ILLUSTRATINGTHE MOST STRIKINGTECHNICAL INNOVATIONSAND THE BEST REPRESENTATIONSOF CHANGES IN CONSUMER DEMAND.INCUBE : THE INNOVATION P.22 > P.24

EVENTSINCUBEFor winter 15-16, innovations are primarilyfocused on improving comfort, resistance and theconvenience of skins and components.They seek to be protective via pairings that increasetheir ability to retain heat whilst maintaining theirnatural look.Materials are breathable and softer thanks toassociations with new, cutting-edge componentswhich produce unexpected and high performancereversible materials.Resistance remains a major concern for theseason. Finishes and colours are stabilised and nolonger bleed.As for humidity, the enemy of skins, newprocedures for pairing materials and newwaterproofing treatments make it possible to varyfinishes and textures.COMFORTLastly, the convenience afforded by dry cleaning,a characteristic that is becoming increasinglywidespread, means that new uses of the materialcan be envisaged.Environmental concerns remain at the forefront ofthis research.CONCERIA STEFANIA -NATURAL LOOK,THERMO-REGULATING AND BREATHABLECONCERIA DI URGNANO -DUVET ASSEMBLED BY HEAT WELDINGCONCERIA STELLA -SPECIAL PAIRING, WARM AND ULTRA-LIGHTINNOVATION 23

EVENTSINCUBERESISTANCETANNERIES DU PUY -VERY RESISTANT RUBBER, AS A RESULT OF BETTERADHERENCE TO THE GRAINFEDERICO ALBARELLO -GRINDING BEFORE THE FINISH TO ENHANCE THERESISTANCE OF THE RUBBERY TEXTURECONVENIENCEALEXANDER VISTMANN -SHOWERPROOF TREATMENT ON A VERY PRONOUNCEDCAVIAR GRAIN LEATHERINNOVATION 24

EVENTSBESPOKEWE LIKE IT A LITTLE, A LOT, MADLY,PASSIONATELY.LEATHER IS EVERYWHERE.FROM DESIGNER FURNITURETO WALL COVERINGS,FROM HANDBAGS TO HIGH HEELS,IT IS THE FAVOURITE MATERIALFOR FASHION AND INTERIORS.WHETHER EXPERIENCED PROFESSIONALSOR NEW COMERS,TEN TALENTED COMPANIES HANDLE ITWITH CONSUMMATE SKILL TO MEETTHE MOST CHALLENGING ORDERSAND THEY INVITE YOU TO VISIT THEMDURING THE FIFTH EDITIONOF BESPOKE BY CUIR A PARIS.FOCUS ON THE THREE NEW EXHIBITORSBES© MARION CHOPINEAUPOKEBESPOKE : THE TAILOR MADE P.25 > P.28

EVENTSBESPOKELAMB LEATHER LACE © LAËTITIA FORTINLAËTITIA FORTIN,REHABILITATING LEATHERWWW.LAETITIAFORTIN.COMINITIATIONLaëtitia Fortin graduated with a degreein upholstery techniques in 2011 thenobtained a Master’s degree in productand furniture design in 2013 from EcoleBoulle, and she now works with both theartisan and industrial sectors, creatingsynergies between them.ONCE UPON A TIME...Laëtitia decided to work with leather tomake the most of second or third choicepieces. Her project, entitled “Leatherwith character” (Cuir de caractère) takesa prospective approach to leather andits many treatments. “It is the fruit ofHIGHLIGHTING THE UNEVEN COLOURING OF THE SKIN © LAËTITIA FORTINan encounter between leather and me,between manual expertise and digitaltools, between one-off items and multipleproduction runs".The origin of the project was inspired by thefollowing observation: In the French leatherindustry, as a result of surface variations(wrinkles, scars, changes in colour, etc.)and mechanical variations (linked to therespiration and movements of the animal),only 10% of leathers are considered tobe first choice. For the majority of theplayers in the industry, the value of theleather mainly comes from the degreeof "perfection" of the skin, a paradoxicalcriteria given the living nature of leather.This classification and the system of valuingskins led Laëtitia to question the criteria ofbeauty and quality that define leather todayand she thought it would be interesting tofind ways to add value to second or thirdchoice skins.SKILLSUsing four techniques that she has refinedto perfection, she creates new looks fromthe defects of goat, calf or lamb skins.The first one, applied to calf leather,involves cutting out the wrinkles of the skinand suturing them, to create a decorativetexture of stitching. The second enhancesthe different thicknesses of goat leather bymaking incisions and splits; this creates aseries of strata on the flesh side. With thethird technique, she thins out lamb leatherto its limits, going as far as to pierce theskin to obtain a sort of lacy leather. Andwith the fourth technique, she makes themost of the different colours of vegetabletannedcalf leather, which are analysedusing computer software then outlinedwith a laser incision; to create volumeshe then boils the leather. As a result ofthese procedures, the material takes onnew formats: bas-relief, organic volume,cartography, landscape and leather lace.FAVOURITE MATERIALLeather that has been cut-out, dyed,torn, reconstituted, stitched, heated,burnt...With a natural, noble material,experimentation knows no limits!APPLICATIONSLaëtitia proposes materials that couldbe used by other designers or interiordesigners. She also responds to requestsfor bespoke designs and production. Theseries of containers is more of an illustrationof a finely-tuned production process than afinished item.Project sponsored by the Degermannand Averpeaux tanneries.LAËTITIA FORTIN 26

EVENTSBESPOKEATELIER FRÉMY,SCREEN PRINTING ON LEATHER FAVOURITE MATERIAL“The first time I was asked to work onWWW.ATELIERFREMY.TUMBLR.COMINITIATIONVéronique Frémy graduated from Ecole Boullein 1990 and the Ecole Nationale Supérieuredes Arts Décoratifs in 1993. She then spenttime as a resident at the Cité Internationaledes Arts in Paris, where she developed herexpertise in manual screen printing.ONCE UPON A TIME...After graduation, Veronique worked in thewinemaking world, with wine-producing estates,award-winning chefs and private winetasting salons in Paris.An exhibition of her work was organised in2008 in Tokyo, at the Lubero Gallery.In 2013, Véronique was chosen to set upher screen printing studio in a hub of Artsand Crafts professions that was created inthe 13th district of Paris. Since then, she hasworked with other artisans and designers andprinted on a variety of materials, includingleather.In 2015, Atelier Frémy will compete in thePrix Bettencourt as well as the Prix de la Villede Paris.SKILLSAtelier Frémy combines innovative techniqueswith traditional expertise. Applied arts andcontemporary design form a harmoniousmarriage in the works produced by this designstudio. Véronique is always on the lookout fornew techniques for screen printing onto noblematerials. Her workshop is an experimentallaboratory where innovation is the watchwordand each project is unique.The know-how of Atelier Frémy is not limitedto manual screen printing on leather andother noble materials (using gold, silver orcopper leaf).It also includes the Artistic Direction of theproject, namely the conception, creationof patterns, chromatic study and choice ofmaterials.The Atelier produces exclusive prototypesin collaboration with a number of artisansincluding saddlers, leathergoods makers, andsheath makers.leather was when a client commissionedme to design and print a wine list onto thematerial. Leather is a noble product and Iwas immediately captivated by its sensuality.I developed a printing technique and sourcedvarious suppliers. That is how I discoveredCUIR À PARIS and the tanners”.APPLICATIONSThe screen printing studio run by VéroniqueFrémy also designs and produces exclusivepremium works. Whether decorative objects,accessories, furniture, one-off creations orcommunications materials – all these designsare printed to order in limited editions.50S STYLE GRAPHIC COMPOSITION © ATELIER FRÉMY"MÉLIMÉLO" PATTERN © ATELIER FRÉMYATELIER FRÉMY 27

EVENTSBESPOKEJULIETTE ARNAULT,SURFACE DESIGNER© JULIETTE ARNAULTWWW.JULIETTEARNAULT.ULTRA-BOOK.COMINITIATIONAfter studying art history, applied arts,textile design and acquiring a Brevet desMétiers d’ Art in hand embroidery, JulietteArnault started working in the fashionsector in 2005.ONCE UPON A TIME...In 2009, she opened her own businessand continues to work in this field.She specialises in embroidery, and thanksto this expertise, she has explored anumber of sectors and materials with hervarious projects: hat-making, artificialflowers, feathers, weaving, couture andmodel-making.COMPETENCESJuliette reworks the various techniques andmaterials to create unique items. She workswith leather and fur, taking inspiration fromthe construction techniques of milliners.She assembles the products to create a newmaterial with unique patterns and textures.FAVOURITE MATERIALFor many years her work has been focusedaround skins and its many properties:biological, intuitive and sensorial.In Juliette's opinion, leather is one ofthe most interesting materials: “it allowsstraight edged cut-outs and a multitude ofapplications, even becoming a medium forgraphic expression. By its very nature it© JULIETTE ARNAULTexpresses quality and nobility and brings allof these properties to the new surface thathas been created.”APPLICATIONSJuliette works with renowned studios andcollaborates on Haute Couture and readyto-wearcollections for luxury houses.She also works in the interior designsector, in partnership with independentdesigners and upholsterer-decorators.JULIETTE ARNAULT 28

EVENTSCRAFT THE LEATHERDESIGN © LOUISE DE GROOTE - LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION“CRAFT THE LEATHER” IS A TRAINING PROJECTFOCUSED ON A GROUP OF TALENTED YOUNGDESIGNERS FROM PRESTIGIOUS INTERNATIONALFASHION AND DESIGN SCHOOLS.CRAFT THE LEATHER SHOWCASES THE WORK OFYOUNG ACCESSORIES DESIGNERS.CRAFTTHECRAFT THE LEATHER AIMS TO PROMOTE TUSCANVEGETABLE-TANNED LEATHER, A HIGH-QUALITYPRODUCT CREATED BY THE SKILLED HANDSOF THE TUSCAN MASTER TANNERS, AND TOINCREASE AWARENESS OF THIS TRADITIONAL BUTALSO EXTREMELY VERSATILE PRODUCT AMONGTHE NEW GENERATION OF FASHION DESIGNERS,WHO WILL BE THE STYLISTS OF TOMORROW.LEATHERCRAFT THE LEATHER : EXHIBITION P.29 > P.3129

EVENTSCRAFT THE LEATHERA group of selected students experienced totalimmersion in the culture of Tuscan Veg-tannedLeather. They followed the entire productive processfrom the tanneries, to the state of the arts waterpurification plant, receiving in-depth knowledge of thequality control system and techno/eco certificationsof leather. During this training week, they came intocontact with many types of vegetable-tanned leather,experienced industrial and artisan practices, joineda master class lead by traditional leather craftsmen,and in the concluding creative workshop, thedesigners were free to experiment crafting, finishingand personalization techniques with a wide range ofleathers, materials and tools. Finally each designerpartnered with a tannery and selected the leathersdirectly in the tannery to be used for the final phase ofthe project.DESIGN © LOUISE DE GROOTE - LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHIONDESIGN © MARIA ELENA CANADA -RHODE ISLAND SCHOOL OF DESIGNEXHIBITION 30

EVENTSCRAFT THE LEATHERINITIATORTOSCANA PROMOZIONEWWW.TOSCANAPROMOZIONE.ITPARTICIPANTSTessa Groenewoud -ARTEZ INSTITUTE OFTHE ARTSAnat Uziely -BEZALEL ACADEMY OFART & DESIGNNaotoshi Seki -BUNKA FASHIONCOLLEGERoswitha Gritsch -DEUTSCHESCHUHFACHSCHULEBased on the experience acquired during this workshop,interpreted by their personal creativity, these young designerselaborated a creative theme related to the natural characteristicsof Veg-tanned leather and a mini-collection of fashion accessoriesthat are being presented at CUIR À PARIS, on September 16th –18th 2014.Visitors will have the chance to review the creations of these youngtalents and to vote their preference. The winner of Craft TheLeather 2014 will be awarded during the fair. The award ceremonywill take place on September 17th at 16:00 in the VIP area.DESIGN © KOYOMI YANAGIMOTO - HIKO MIZUNO COLLEGE OF JEWELRYFernando Scott Webb -FASHION INSTITUTEOF TECHNOLOGYKoyomi Yanagimoto -HIKO MIZUNOCOLLEGE OF JEWELRYSigne Eistorp Nielse -KOLDING SCHOOL OFDESIGNYoung Hyun Kim -KOOKMINUNIVERSITYLouise de Groote -LONDON COLLEGE OFFASHIONLouise de Groote -RHODE ISLANDSCHOOL OF DESIGNPARTNERCONZORTIO VERA PELLEITALIANA CONCIATA ALVEGETALEWWW.PELLEALVEGETALE.ITEXHIBITION 31

NEXT EDITION10-11-12 FEB. 2015JOINS US ONFACEBOOKTWITTERPINTERESTVIMÉOWWW.CUIRAPARIS.COM