By Howard Halasz • <strong>Wing</strong> <strong>World</strong> Technical Contribu<strong>to</strong>r(Pho<strong>to</strong> courtesy <strong>of</strong> Clymer® Repair Manuals)Your GL1000 and GL1100Gold <strong>Wing</strong>s came fromHonda’s fac<strong>to</strong>ry equippedwith mo<strong>to</strong>rcycle sealed beam headlights.If you have a Vetter Windjammerfairing on your Gold <strong>Wing</strong>,the sealed beam that was installed atVetter’s manufacturing plant was actuallyan au<strong>to</strong>mobile sealed beam, althoughit was labeled “MOTORCY-CLE”.You may ask,“So what’s the big difference?”The big difference is the following:When you are riding at night andyour Gold <strong>Wing</strong> has a mo<strong>to</strong>rcyclesealed beam, you switch from lowbeam <strong>to</strong> high beam.Your high beam isstill focused straight ahead, but higher.When you are riding at night andyour Gold <strong>Wing</strong> has an au<strong>to</strong>mobilesealed beam, you still switch from lowbeam <strong>to</strong> high beam but your highbeam is no longer focused straightahead. Instead, it is higher and slightly <strong>to</strong> the left <strong>of</strong> straight ahead.Figure 1 shows the filament arrangement in a typical sealed beam formo<strong>to</strong>rcycles. Figure 2 shows the filament arrangement in a typicalsealed beam for au<strong>to</strong>mobiles.It is better <strong>to</strong> have both the high and low beams focused at the center<strong>of</strong> the line <strong>of</strong> travel, as the bikewas designed <strong>to</strong> be.That’s why it maybe well worth it <strong>to</strong> spend a littleextra money <strong>to</strong> get either an OEMsealedbeam labeled “Mo<strong>to</strong>rcycle”or, better yet, a headlight housingthat uses the newer halogen H4bulbs.The 1975 thru 1977 Gold <strong>Wing</strong>sare equipped with a reserve lightingunit, otherwise known as an RLU.Pete Boody <strong>of</strong> Pis<strong>to</strong>l Pete’s GL1000Gold <strong>Wing</strong> Services (www.oldwings.com)quoted the followingconcerning the use <strong>of</strong> the H4 halogenheadlights on the 1975 through1977 Gold <strong>Wing</strong>s:“If you have ever opened the sideshelter cover <strong>of</strong> a 1975, 1976, or1977 GL1000 and noticed that theReserve Lighting Unit has a bulge inthe back <strong>of</strong> it, it is most likely thecause <strong>of</strong> the higher resistance <strong>of</strong> theH4 bulbs that were used back in themid-70s, causing additional heat in the unit. I believe that Honda saw thisand, along with the wiring plus the cost <strong>of</strong> the unit, did away with it andadded the H4 bulb <strong>to</strong> the headlight assembly (’78 and up) and eventuallywent <strong>to</strong> the dual bulbs in the tail light (’79 and up). Unfortunately,they did not add the dual H/L bulbs until 1988, in the GL1500.Those <strong>of</strong>LOLOHIGNDHIGNDFILAMENTSIN LINEMOTORCYCLECAROFFSETFILAMENTSFIGURE 1, FILAMENT ARRANGEMENTIN A MOTORCYCLE SEALED BEAMNotice that the high and low beam filaments are in line with each other.FIGURE 2, FILAMENT ARRANGEMENTIN AN AUTOMOBILE SEALED BEAMNotice that the high and low beam filaments are <strong>of</strong>fset from each other, which willcause the high beam <strong>to</strong> be slightly <strong>to</strong> the left <strong>of</strong> center when the low beam is centered.32 <strong>Wing</strong> <strong>World</strong>
us who have the Reserve Lighting Units andwish <strong>to</strong> keep them s<strong>to</strong>ck, and in working order,should probably not switch <strong>to</strong> the H4 bulb, andI have never had a failure <strong>of</strong> this unit since Is<strong>to</strong>pped using the H4.”But if you like the improved night visionthat the H4 halogen headlights provide, as wellas having extra taillights, and would also like <strong>to</strong>keep your ’75 through ’77 Gold <strong>Wing</strong>s lookingoriginal, you can easily bypass the RLU.The followingexcellent advice is from RandallWashing<strong>to</strong>n, a noted GL1000 expert, <strong>of</strong> RAN-DAKK’S CYCLE SHAKK, (http://www.randakks.com):“You should know how <strong>to</strong> bypass a failedReserve Lighting Unit. This is a very cleverdevice. It’s designed <strong>to</strong> compensate for a failedlow beam headlight or taillight filament byswitching <strong>to</strong> the high beam headlight or s<strong>to</strong>plamp filament (at reduced voltage). If the unit isworking correctly and all your bulbs are okay,here’s how you will know everything is right:1. The red s<strong>to</strong>p lamp indica<strong>to</strong>r on theconsole will come on every time youapply either the front or rear brake. Ifyou apply the brakes and the red lightdoes not illuminate, you either have:• a burned out taillight /s<strong>to</strong>p light bulb• a bad indica<strong>to</strong>r bulb• a problem with the ReserveLighting Unit2. The headlight indica<strong>to</strong>r works inopposite fashion (it is the clear whiteindica<strong>to</strong>r on the lower left side <strong>of</strong> theconsole). It stays <strong>of</strong>f all the time,unless there is a problem with one <strong>of</strong>the two headlight filaments.”Randall continues that, “Also, it’s possiblefor the RLU <strong>to</strong> fail in such a way that you haveno headlights or taillights at all! The Clymermanual has a nice diagram (previous page)which shows how <strong>to</strong> bypass the RLU usingthree short jumper wires (via the dotted linesshown). I recommend that you make up threeshort wires (with appropriate male and femaleconnec<strong>to</strong>rs on each end) and put them in yourglove box, along with a sketch <strong>of</strong> the connections<strong>to</strong> affect the bypass.By the way, if you are interested in maintainingyour bike’s collec<strong>to</strong>r value, I recommendthat you keep this device in service. It’sa very neat device that was engineered <strong>to</strong>accommodate anticipated safety regulationsthat never materialized. In my experience, failuresare rare, and it does provide a useful safetyfeature. Collec<strong>to</strong>rs always check <strong>to</strong> see thatGL1000s have this device in place and that it isin operation.”Adding extra taillights, s<strong>to</strong>p lights, and otherrunning lights tied <strong>to</strong> the taillight/s<strong>to</strong>p light circuitcould also shorten the life <strong>of</strong> the RLU. BobMacBird, GWRRA’s Classic <strong>Wing</strong> SIG Representative,and Pete Boody suggest that if youwant <strong>to</strong> add extra lights that use the taillightand brake light circuit, leave the incandescentbulb in the original tail/brake light housing.Then use the newer LED #1157 substitutesfor any additional taillights and brake lights.The LED light bulbs will never draw enough<strong>current</strong> from the RLU <strong>to</strong> cause damage.One Final SuggestionIf your classic Gold <strong>Wing</strong> has a Vetter orother aftermarket frame-mounted fairing, theoriginal package came with those little blueScotch Lock electrical connec<strong>to</strong>rs <strong>to</strong> connectthe Vetter headlight harness <strong>to</strong> the Honda fac<strong>to</strong>rywiring.After 25-plus years <strong>of</strong> use, there’sa good chance that those connec<strong>to</strong>rs havedeteriorated from corrosion and dissimilarmetal chemical reaction.This aging process can lead <strong>to</strong> voltagedrops at the connections and intermitten<strong>to</strong>pen circuit conditions. You may find thatsome <strong>of</strong> the electrical items on your fairingare failing—either intermittently or permanently.Now would also be a good time <strong>to</strong>replace all <strong>of</strong> those little blue Scotch Lockelectrical connec<strong>to</strong>rs with some good hotsolder connections. Just be sure <strong>to</strong> use agood quality lead tin alloy solder and somegood quality electrical tape or heat shrinkinsulation.●March 2009 33
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