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ZambiaChattering and throwing palmnuts ontothe roof of your cottage, the monkeysstart your day before the sun does. Emerginginto the misty morning, a cup of coffee inhand, you watch as the sun rises over abroad snaking river. A breeding herd ofelephant soundlessly descends the dusty bankto drink. The sun turns the glassy waterpink, crocodiles stir and a fish eagle’s screechpierces the air. Welcome to Zambia – youhave arrived in the wild heart of Africa.Zambia is the home of the walking safari,and its prolific game is especiallyexhilarating when encountered on foot.Elephant, lion, wild dog, spotted hyena,giraffe and puku are just some of the gameyou will see. Beware: once you’ve approacheda hundred-strong herd of buffalo on foot,game-viewing from a vehicle may nevergive quite the same thrill. At night there aredrives to search for leopard, the spotlightseeking the reflection of feline eyes in theundergrowth. From the tree-climbing lionsof the Busanga Plains to the hundred-stronghippo pods of the South Luangwa, Zambiais untamed, little-explored and as wild asit has ever been.42

Audley in Zambia45638712Zambia is one of our favourite countriesin Southern Africa and our extensiveknowledge of it comes from many years oftravelling and operating safaris in the region.Our chosen camps are small and run byfriendly and capable Zambians whosewelcome is always warm. They are alsodelightfully close to nature – you might havea vervet monkey on the roof of your bandaor a hippo grazing the lodge lawn at night.The country’s main game areas; the LuangwaValley, Lower Zambezi and Kafue, are allreached by a good network of flights.Travellers usually spend time in one or twoareas to enjoy the contrasting scenery andgame. There are several good trip extensionoptions: a few days in Livingstone to see theVictoria Falls, or Lake Malawi is a short flightaway. Zambia is easy to travel around butdon’t let this persuade you that it is a tamecountry – it is one of the wildest insouthern Africa.AccommodationDusk at Busanga Bushcamp1 South LuangwaNational ParkThe home of the walking safariand one of the best parks inAfrica for leopard sightings.2North LuangwaNational Park5 Busanga PlainsVast floodplains and thecentrepiece of the Kafue. Hometo plains game, tree climbinglions and cheetah.6 LivingstoneLivingstone offers beautifulriverside lodges from which tosee the Victoria Falls.7 Shiwa Ng’anduAn incongruous stately homebuilt in the remote north byeccentric Englishman StewartGore Browne.African hoopoe8 Bangweulu WetlandsSeasonally flooded grass plainsthat support a rich diversity ofwater birds. Shoebill stork andblack lechwe are found here.In the national parks, a lodge and a handfulof satellite bushcamps are usually owned byone safari operator, often a family business.The lodge will have around six rooms and isoften a good place in which to start yoursafari. The satellite bush camps tend to be inremote areas and focus on walking safaris.Typically, they have three simple chaletsmade of reed and thatch. Overlooking riversor waterholes, the dining room might beunder a sausage tree and the open airbathrooms visited by a tree frog or two.All accommodation is unfenced so it’scommon for wildlife to wander throughcamp. Livingstone’s beautiful riverside lodgesare the ideal place in which to start or enda safari; from here you can enjoy VictoriaFalls and fall asleep to the sound of hipposgrunting in the water.A wild park with only two campsand numerous lion and buffalo,excellent for walking safaris.Find out more3 Lower ZambeziNational ParkOne of Africa’s most scenicwildlife areas, concentratedaround the Zambezi River. Thepark supports high densities ofbig game.4 Kafue National ParkA huge wilderness encompassingrivers, picturesque woodland andopen floodplains.Elephant in the Lower ZambeziFor suggested itineraries and practicalinformation about travel in Zambia, pleasesee page 55.☎www.audleytravel.comInteractive maps and features,further suggested itineraries,accommodation, climate informationand articles written by our specialists.Discuss your plans with our Zambiaspecialists 01993 838 505Zambia 43

Watching elephant on a walking safariSouth Luangwa National ParkThe South Luangwa National Park is tropical, wildand beautiful. Situated in a wide rift valley, thepark is flanked by the Muchinga escarpment tothe west and the meandering Luangwa River tothe east. Its lush and diverse vegetation is hometo a wide variety of game and rich birdlife. Muchof the game is found near the river, with herds ofelephant and buffalo descending the banks todrink. Large crocodiles laze on sandbanks and atdusk hundreds of hippo leave their pools andlumber up the banks to graze. Impala and pukuare common and Thornicroft’s giraffe can be seenin the forests. Cookson’s wildebeest, Crawshay’szebra, waterbuck, bushbuck, grysbok and oribi arealso found. Predators abound, with lion andspotted hyena common, while the leopards arealways a highlight. Finally, there are over 400species of bird, with specialities including flocks ofcrowned cranes, colonies of carmine bee-eatersand a breeding colony of yellowbilled stork.Walking safaris are a speciality in the Luangwa.Accompanied by guides and scouts, walks explorethe riverbanks and pretty dambos with theirgreen Nile cabbage and crocodiles. There arealso day and night drives in open 4x4s.KAPANI LODGE, SOUTHLUANGWA NATIONAL PARKKapani Lodge is a welcoming lodge located in awildlife area adjacent to the South LuangwaNational Park. It has six cottages overlooking apretty lagoon which attracts a wide variety ofgame. With shady gardens, a small pool andchattering vervet monkeys, it’s a perfect start toa safari. Walks and drives in the park are led byexperienced guides. Kapani works well incombination with a few of its satellite bushcamps(Luwi, Nsolo and Kakuli), which are locateddeep within the park.LUWI, NSOLO AND KAKULIBUSHCAMPS, SOUTH LUANGWANATIONAL PARKThese three bushcamps are situated along theLuwi and Luangwa rivers and you can ramblefrom one to the other on a guided walk. Luwi istiny and delightful, with four simple reed roomsunder mahogany trees. Nsolo has beautiful raisedchalets with polished wooden floors and openair bathrooms. Finally, Kakuli overlooks theconfluence of the Luwi and Luangwa rivers anda noisy pod of hippos in the water below.Dining at Nsolo Bushcamp44MCHENJA BUSHCAMP, SOUTHLUANGWA NATIONAL PARKMchenja Bushcamp stands in an ancient ebonygrove – a favourite of baboons – on the banksof the Luangwa. It is one of the most picturesquesites in the park for a camp. There are fourspacious tents, with polished wooden floors, largedecks and en suite bathrooms. Activities fromcamp include walking safaris and game drives.

Young male lion in the LuangwaWatching puku on a game driveLeopard in the South LuangwaCHAMILANDU BUSHCAMP,SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARKChamilandu is situated in a remote spot on theLuangwa River. The décor of the two-metrehigh tree house chalets is a tasteful blend ofwrought iron and brass. Open to a 180° vista,the front of each tree house chalet provides theframe for all of the Luangwa Valley’s wildlife, andthe four poster beds enjoy a bird’s eye view overthe waters of the Luangwa River. A series ofseven ox-bow lagoons around Chamilandu yielddiverse habitats and attract abundant wildlife.This is a wonderful place to explore both onfoot and in 4x4s.KAPAMBA BUSHCAMP, SOUTHLUANGWA NATIONAL PARKKapamba Bushcamp is a beautiful camp withviews over the Kapamba River. There are fourstone and thatch chalets, which are open on oneside allowing you to step out into the bush fromyour bedroom. Each chalet has an en suitebathroom with large tub. At night your bathroomis sometimes shared by a couple of small frogs,who will sit and watch you clean your teeth!There is a large deck in the centre of camp whereyou can sit and enjoy breakfast in the sun andcampfires in the evening.Chamilandu BushcampCHINDENI BUSHCAMP, SOUTHLUANGWA NATIONAL PARKChindeni has one of the most stunning locationsin the South Luangwa, nestled on the apex of apermanent oxbow lagoon in the shadow of themagnificent Nchindeni Hills. Watching thesunrise over the hills in the morning is awonderful way to start the day. Sitting onwooden decking, Chindeni’s four en suite tentshave raised verandas, ideal platforms from whichto view the resident game. Chindeni is only sixkilometres from one of its sister camps,Bilimungwe, so you can enjoy an early morningwalk between the two.KUYENDA BUSHCAMP, SOUTHLUANGWA NATIONAL PARKKuyenda sits on the banks of the Manzi River.The accommodation consists of three rondavelsmade entirely of local material – reed, thatch andwood. The chalets are rustic but comfortable andoffer an authentic bush home. En suite bathroomshave bucket showers and guests can order hotwater in advance – this is a true safari experience.Kuyenda is in a good walking area and somewalks are guided by Phil Berry, who hasunmatched knowledge of the Luangwa Valley,having spent the last 30 years here.Kapamba Bushcampwww.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 45

Lioness beside the Luangwa RiverTAFIKA CAMP, SOUTH LUANGWANATIONAL PARKTafika Camp stands on high banks above theLuangwa River. Owned by John and CarolCoppinger, it prides itself on having some of themost experienced guides in the park. The campitself is comfortable, with five large bungalows.Once across the river, you are in a pristine wildlifearea of the park where there are no roads orother camps, so it is well suited to walking safaris.John owns a microlight and will take guests upinto the air at dawn. Skimming low over theLuangwa River and watching crocodile splash intothe water is an exhilarating experience. Tafikacombines well with a walking safari to its satellitebushcamps, Chikoko and Crocodile.LION CAMP, SOUTH LUANGWANATIONAL PARKLion Camp is located in an area away from othercamps so guests enjoy a private and wild safariexperience. The camp overlooks a lagoon and isunfenced so it is not unusual for antelope,elephant and hippo to wander through the campduring the day. Linked by raised woodenwalkways are nine luxurious canvas and thatchchalets. The centre of camp has a large deckwhere dinner is often eaten under the stars. It isone of the few camps in the park to have a smallpool, very welcome in the hot summer months.A chalet at TafikaNKWALI CAMP, SOUTHLUANGWA NATIONAL PARKNkwali Camp is located in an area of ebonywoodland and open grass plains. Elephant oftencross the Luangwa River near to the lodge andcrocodiles can be seen lazing on the sandbanks.Nkwali has six luxurious chalets overlooking theriver and a large bar built around an ebony tree.Dining is often outside under a tree, andsometimes on a sandbank in the middle of theriver! Nkwali combines well with its sister campsTena Tena and Nsefu.Mobile walking safarisZambia is renowned for its walkingsafaris, which were pioneered in theLuangwa Valley. There are two ways toenjoy walking safaris – either on morningand afternoon rambles out and back tothe same camp or on a three or fourday dedicated walking trail.One of our favourite places to start athree day walking trail is Tafika Camp.On a typical trail you would set outfrom Tafika for a morning’s walk througha pristine wilderness area to the firstcamp, Crocodile Camp, only accessibleon foot. A day or so can be spent atCrocodile before taking a morning walkto Chikoko Bushcamp. After a couple ofnights at Chikoko, you can then enjoy awalk back to Tafika.The beauty of this trail is that it can betailored to your interests and pace,whether you enjoy long or short walks,or a mixture of both. The camps aredelightful with simple reed and thatchchalets and hot bucket showers. You willdine under sausage trees, shower underthe stars and sit around campfires.46The campfire at Lion Camp

Lion prideViewing buffalo on a walking safariCarmine bee-eatersNorth Luangwa National ParkThe North Luangwa is a wild park with virtuallyno roads and thus the focus is on walking safaris.The small Mwaleshi River runs through the park,with clear shallow waters and low banks, perfectfor rambling along. Game gravitates towards theriver, particularly in the dry season when it iscommon to see buffalo, lion and hyena in healthynumbers by the water. There are someparticularly pretty dambos covered in brilliantNile cabbage with a hippo or two only visible bytheir flickering ears. A short flight from the SouthLuangwa, we recommend adding this park ontothe end of a safari there and suggest that youstay at least four days to fully explore thispeaceful wilderness.Walking along the Mwaleshi RiverMWALESHI CAMP, NORTHLUANGWA NATIONAL PARKMwaleshi Camp is one of our favourite camps inAfrica. Taking a maximum of six guests, its reedchalets overlook the Mwaleshi River. Earlymornings and evenings are spent walking alongthe banks of the river, looking at everything fromelephant-shrew tracks to lions, determined dungbeetles to exquisite seed pods. In the heat of theday it is possible to paddle in the clear, shallowriver in front of camp, which has tiny silver fishbut apparently no crocodiles!Shiwa Ng’andu HouseShiwa Ng’anduShiwa Ng’andu is an old English manorhouse, built deep in the African bush.A flight from the South Luangwa, it isremote but well worth making thejourney for. Perfect avenues ofeucalyptus lead to a graceful statelyhome with sweeping staircases, panelledlibraries, Persian rugs, muskets, chestsand a clock tower topping the slate tiledroof. Built by Sir Stewart Gore Brownein the early 20th century and brought topublic attention by Christina Lamb’sbook ‘The Africa House’, it is steeped inhistory and a living memorial to the lifeand work of Sir Stewart. A stay hereamply rewards the intrepid traveller andcould not provide more of a contrastwith Zambia’s safari camps.Crawshay’s zebraSundown at Mwaleshiwww.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 47

Observing wild dog on a game driveThe Lower ZambeziNational ParkOnce over the Zambezi escarpment, your pilotwill begin to lower the aeroplane and the vast riftvalley of the Lower Zambezi will unfold beforeyou, with curving oxbow lagoons and the sandywaters of the great Zambezi River. Pods of hippolitter the water, clumped herds of buffalo can beseen on the floodplains, and elephant move, earsflapping and trunks up, through the trees andaway from the sound of the plane. With itsfloodplains, grasslands and tall forests, the LowerZambezi Valley supports fantastic game densities.Impala are everywhere and kudu, eland,waterbuck, zebra and wildebeest are alsocommon. Elephant are often seen swimming theZambezi River to feed on the grassy islandswhere buffalo graze. The sandy river banks arehome to iridescent carmine bee-eater colonieswhile kingfishers and African skimmers flit aboveBreakfast at Chongwe River Camp48the waters. Predators include leopard, large pridesof lion and packs of wild dog. From walking safaristo drives, boating and fishing, the Zambezi has somuch to offer that we recommend a stay of atleast three days to explore it fully.CHONGWE RIVER CAMP,LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARKChongwe River Camp is set under a canopy ofwinterthorn acacias on the confluence of theChongwe and Zambezi Rivers. The nine tentsall face the river and are cool and comfortable.A pod of hippos occupy the river in front of thelodge and crocodiles often laze on the oppositeriverbank alongside storks, herons and geese.Activities from camp include game drives, walkingsafaris, boat trips, canoeing and tiger fishing.SAUSAGE TREE CAMP,LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARKSausage Tree Camp is a luxurious camp perchedon a high sandy bank where bee-eaters nest.There are seven stylish tents which have largebeds, antique telephones (the network extendsas far as the bar) and open air bathrooms.There is an airy living room with lots of booksand a dining room where excellent meals areserved. Activities from camp include game drives,walking safaris and boat trips and Sausage Treealso operates a canoe trail up the Zambezi River.Canoeing by day and sleeping on islands by nightis an exciting way to experience the wildlife.The honeymoon suite at Sausage Tree CampOLD MONDORO, LOWER ZAMBEZINATIONAL PARKOld Mondoro is small and simple, surrounded bygood walking country, making it the ideal campfrom which to enjoy walks as well as game drives.There are four chalets with double beds, en suitebathrooms and timber decks outside. At night,lanterns lead from the chalets to the dining room,where you can sit around the fire and discuss theday’s events. Set deep in the park, the camp issurrounded by excellent game densities, makingdrives, walks and boat trips very rewarding.Old Mondoro

Waterbuck in Mana Pools National ParkYoung leopardCanoe safari in Mana PoolsThe pool at Rukomechi CampMana Pools, ZimbabweDirectly across the river from the Lower ZambeziNational Park is Mana Pools in Zimbabwe.Reached by a three hour road and boat transferfrom Lusaka or via a short flight, this is a greatalternative to a safari in the Lower Zambezi. In itsheyday, Mana was one of the most sought afterand exclusive parks in Zimbabwe, and as fewvisitors have travelled there in the last ten years,the park remains unchanged. The presence ofscouts and rangers has meant that it has beenunaffected by poaching, and game densities areas high as they’ve ever been. Visitors are nowreturning to the park, accessing it from theZambian side and enjoying one of SouthernAfrica’s premier wildlife destinations, with theadded bonus of having to share it with fewother visitors.Mana Pools covers 2,000 square kilometres oftotal wilderness, much of it with no roads, so it isideal for exploration on foot. This stretch of theZambezi River is famous for its four pools: Main,Chine, Long and Chisambuk, which are remnantsof channels of the river which stopped flowingyears ago. These, and smaller seasonal poolsdotted further inland, hold water all year round,drawing a wide variety of game. The area isrenowned for having large numbers of elephant,buffalo, hippo and eland. Predators such as lion,leopard and wild dog are regularly sighted and thebirdlife is superb. There are only a couple of smallcamps in the park as well as a number of guidedcanoe trails. It is an excellent addition to a trip toZambia and suited to those looking for a puresafari experience.Tents on a Mana canoe trailRukomechi CampRUCKOMECHI CAMP,MANA POOLSRuckomechi Camp sits in a grove of acacia andmahogany trees on the banks of the ZambeziRiver. There are ten spacious tents, all withdouble or twin beds and en suite bathrooms withhot showers. The central dining and lounge areasface the Zambezi escarpment and a separatedeck has an infinity pool for the hot afternoonsand a cushion-strewn star gazing deck for night.Activities from the camp include game drives,boat trips and walking safaris, although it is oftenunnecessary to leave the camp to see game, aselephant frequently wander in to snack on thefruit of the albida trees.MANA CANOE TRAIL,MANA POOLSThis three night canoe trail explores one of themost beautiful stretches of the Zambezi River.The whole trail covers a distance of 65kilometres, and each day you’ll canoe a stretchof river before stopping for lunch on an islandor sandbank. There is the chance to explore thepark on foot in the afternoon before campingeach night on the banks of the river. The trail isled by an experienced guide and support vehiclesand staff set up camp each day on your arrival.It is an ideal trip for the fit and adventuroustraveller who wants to encounter wildlife fromclose quarters.www.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 49

Dawn on the Busanga Plainszebra, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, blue wildebeest,oribi and sable antelope. Cheetah stalk throughthe stubbly grass and prides of lion relax alongthe branches of fig trees. With clouds of openbilled storks overhead, you are surrounded bywildlife. This variety of environments can beexplored on walking safaris, boat trips and dayand night game drives.Lufupa River LodgeThe Kafue National ParkAt over 22,000 square kilometres, the KafueNational Park is a huge magical wilderness. It hastropical rivers filled with hippo, vast floodplainswith herds of grazers, and twisted fig trees amongwhose branches lions are found. With fewvisitors, it is wild and untamed. In the north, theLufupa and Lunga Rivers twist and turn, andboating along these you will see the corrugatedbacks of crocodiles gliding silently underoverhanging trees. Elephant come to the smallsandy beaches to drink along with bushbuck,defassa waterbuck, eland and more. Deep in thepark, the Busanga Plains are a highlight. Seasonalfloodplains, these immense grasslands are onlyaccessible from June to October. Here the newshoots attract large herds of puku, red lechwe,LUFUPA RIVER LODGE, KAFUENATIONAL PARKSituated on the banks of the Lunga River, thissmall lodge is welcoming and comfortable withtwelve canvas chalets looking out onto the water.There’s a small pool and bar deck on stiltsabove the water – perfect for sundowners inthe warm evenings. Lufupa offers a variety ofactivities including boat trips, walks, and day andnight drives.BUSANGA BUSHCAMP, KAFUENATIONAL PARKBusanga Bushcamp sits on a fig tree island on theBusanga Plains. The four tented rooms have gauzenetting walls permitting fabulous views over thePlains. There are en suite open air bathroomswhich allow you to shower either with the sunbeating down on your back or under the stars.Dining is under canvas and there’s always acampfire in the evenings. Activities focus on dayand night drives on the Busanga Plains as well ashot air ballooning.Hot air ballooning over the Busanga PlainsHot air ballooningA fascinating way to experience theBusanga Plains is from the basket of a hotair balloon. You will take off before dawnand rise up into the air with the sun.The balloon will float where the windtakes it – over grasslands, fig tree islands,rivers and wetlands. Wildlife looksdifferent when viewed from above –you can see birds roosting at the tops oftrees, the patterns of herds on the plainsand the backs of hippos and crocodiles inthe water. Accompanied by the mist thatoften rises off the plains in the earlymorning, these trips are visually stunningand excellent for keen photographers.On landing, a champagne breakfast isserved before a leisurely game driveback to camp.50

Zambia’s safari housesElephant in front of the Luangwa HouseThe concept of the safari house, now popularacross Africa, was pioneered in Zambia. Thecountry has a number of beautiful houses, allbuilt in the middle of the bush, with spaciousliving areas, characterful bedrooms andluxurious bathrooms. On stepping out throughthe front door, however, you might encounterpuku on the lawn or an elephant drinking fromthe swimming pool.These luxurious houses are booked exclusivelyand are ideal for small groups. Luangwa Houseand Robin’s House are located in the heart ofthe South Luangwa. Chongwe River Houseand Kigelia House are located in the LowerZambezi and Tangala House is close toLivingstone, on the banks of the Zambezi Riverand near a rather noisy pod of hippos.The safari houses are ideal for families,which the Zambians welcome with open arms.The houses come complete with guides andactivities that can be tailored to each specificfamily. Game drives can be enjoyed byparents and children together, or the childrencan enjoy their own special safari programme.There is a range of activities for young guests,from walking out to collect seed pods totracking lessons. For younger children, thekitchen and gardens are a highlight and theycan bake cookies, collect hens’ eggs andpick pineapples.Chongwe River HouseCHONGWE RIVER HOUSE,LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARKChongwe River House has a secluded settingon the banks of the Chongwe River. The househas furniture made from winterhorn trees andits ceiling contains pebbles from the ChongweRiver. The four bedrooms have spectacularviews, and the en suite bathrooms have tapscarved from bone. Outside there is a smallpool and the lawn is ideal for al fresco dining.LUANGWA HOUSE, SOUTHLUANGWA NATIONAL PARKThe Luangwa House overlooks a seasonallagoon, frequented by elephant and giraffe. It isbuilt with ancient leadwood trees, stone andthatch. There are four bedrooms, two upstairsand two downstairs. The centre of the house isdominated by a stunning open plan living roomwith views out to the waterhole. Outside thereis a plunge pool and a walkway out to aviewing deck above the waterhole. In the dryseason this is a particularly exciting place to sit,as herds of elephant come to drink.ROBIN’S HOUSE, SOUTHLUANGWA NATIONAL PARKRobin’s House is situated on the banks of theLuangwa River and shaded by ebony trees.Stone steps lead up into a cool central livingroom with squashy sofas and views of theriver. The living room has two bedroomsleading off it, each with an en suite bathroomwith shower and bathtub. A short walk awayfrom the house there is a pool that is sharedwith nearby Nkwali Camp. The house comeswith its own staff, including a private chefand a guide.Robin’s HouseA bedroom in Luangwa Housewww.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 51

Victoria FallsLivingstone & Victoria FallsOne of the natural wonders of the world,Victoria Falls is known as the ‘smoke thatthunders’ in the local language. It is an apt namegiven the thundering roar that resounds as thesparkling Zambezi River pours great cascades ofwhite water over the lip of the Falls. Walkingalong little paths to view this phenomenon ofnature, you see trumpeter hornbills dart out fromdripping trees to fly across the water. Vervetmonkeys and baboons chatter and a rainbowforms across the spray when the sun comes out.There are excellent views from the Zambian side,where you can also cross Knife Edge Bridge to anisland surrounded by water. Ten kilometres fromthe Victoria Falls, Livingstone town has sprung tolife with lots of small guesthouses, lively marketsand operators offering every possible activityfrom helicopter rides to exhilarating whitewaterrafting trips and gentle boat cruises on theZambezi. We recommend staying outside theA chalet at Waterberry52town in one of the quiet lodges on the ZambeziRiver, from where you can visit the Victoria Fallsas well as go on sunset boat trips, walks and visitsto village markets.TONGABEZI LODGE & SINDABEZIISLAND CAMP, LIVINGSTONETongabezi is situated on the banks of the ZambeziRiver. Rooms are large with polished stone floors,cream fabrics and en suite bathrooms withVictorian baths and shining brass taps. There’s apool built into the rocks and sunloungers in theshade. Tongabezi combines well with a stay at itssister camp, Sindabezi. Sitting on a little island inthe middle of the river, Sindabezi is a tranquil spotwith white fronted bee-eaters flitting from thetrees. The rooms are luxurious and the welcomewarm – it is one of our favourite camps in Zambia.WATERBERRY ZAMBEZI LODGE,LIVINGSTONEThis pretty lodge is located on the banks ofthe Zambezi about 45 minutes’ drive fromthe Victoria Falls. There are seven thatchedcottages overlooking either the river or gardens.A split-level main building houses a dining andlounge area and looks over the water. A greatplace to relax, Waterberry also offers a range ofactivities including a guided trip to the VictoriaFalls, a sunset cruise on the river, and a particularlyinteresting visit to a nearby village with one ofthe local staff.A room at Sindabezi Island CampTOKA LEYA, LIVINGSTONEToka Leya has 15 canvas rooms on the banks ofthe Zambezi River. All rooms are connected bywooden walkways, allowing game to pass throughthe camp uninterrupted. The main lodgecomprises of an open sided lounge withcomfortable sofas and tables for private orcommunal dining. The bar has views onto theriver, and there is a shady deck where you canenjoy lunch. The pool and small spa make thisan ideal place to relax before or after a safari.Toka Leya

The Victoria Falls Hotel, Victoria Falls TownMalachite kingfisherVictoria Falls Town,ZimbabweThe small town of Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe isless than two kilometres south of the ZambeziRiver and the border to Zambia. UntilZimbabwe’s political problems surfaced, it wasthe place to stay to see the waterfalls and thetown was buzzing and vibrant. Whilst the pastfew years saw troubled times for the country,Victoria Falls Town was one of the few areasthat managed to retain a semblance of a tourismindustry. Recently the town has begun to cometo life again with hotels receiving refurbishmentsand new restaurants opening. The streets arenow busy and everything from washing powderto wooden curios is readily available. The townhas a number of hotels, including the famousVictoria Falls Hotel which was always, and still is,the place to have tea on the terrace. You canwalk to the Falls from many of the hotels andenjoy a leisurely morning exploring the rainforestpathways with the backdrop of chatteringmonkeys. Easily reached from the parks inZambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana, Victoria FallsTown is once again, a wonderful start or endto any safari.Dining at the Victoria Falls Safari LodgeTHE VICTORIA FALLS HOTEL,VICTORIA FALLS TOWNThis historic hotel overlooks the Victoria FallsBridge and the gorges below. Situated in acresof private garden, the charm and tranquilatmosphere has long been a favourite withvisitors. A walk along the hotel’s pathway willbring guests out at the top of the gorge andprovides views of the bridge. With colonialprints and antique furniture, history surroundsyou at every turn. The colonial heritage extendsinto the 184 rooms and suites which all havefour-poster or canopy beds. The hotel’s famousStanley’s Terrace is the place to enjoy afternoontea watching the spray rise up from the water.ILALA LODGE, VICTORIAFALLS TOWNIlala Lodge enjoys a secluded location close totown. It is the nearest lodge to the Falls and fromthe gardens you can hear the roar of the water.The lodge borders the Victoria Falls National Parkand it is common to see wildlife wandering acrossthe lawn. A wide verandah wraps round the frontof the hotel providing a shady area where youcan relax and look out across the pretty gardens.There are 32 en suite rooms, a pool with athatched bar area and a good restaurant that ispopular with hotel residents and locals alike.VICTORIA FALLS SAFARI LODGE,VICTORIA FALLS TOWNThe Victoria Falls Safari Lodge is set high on aplateau, four kilometres from town. The plateauforms a natural boundary to the unfencedZambezi National Park and there are fantasticuninterrupted views from the hotel. A waterholein front of the lodge attracts a variety of gameduring the dry season, including elephants,buffalo, impala and kudu. With the feel of alarge safari lodge there are 72 en suite roomswith hardwoods, thatch and vibrant colours, allfacing across the park. As well as visits to theFalls you can enjoy guided bushwalks on thesurrounding reserve.Ilala Lodge, Victoria Falls Townwww.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 53

Zambia’s Green SeasonLuangwa in the Green SeasonYoung impalaIn Zambia’s Luangwa Valley, the time fromNovember to May is known as the GreenSeason. Heavy rains arrive, promoting lushgrowth that sparkles green under hot skies.Plains are carpeted with tall grasses and theland is flushed with thickets and forests in fullfoliage. The rains are welcomed by the localsas it is good for the surrounding farms. Daysare beautiful and warm between showers,many of which occur in the afternoons or atnight. With the downpour of rain the LuangwaRiver swells and bursts its banks, floodinglagoons which fill with hundreds of waterbirds.Herbivores give birth and birds are in breedingplumage. The only creature that is notablefor its absence is the visitor. With parks emptyof vehicles and prices a fraction of those inhigh season, this is a magical time for thesafari enthusiast.Wildlife in the Green SeasonIn the Green Season you will not see thegreat numbers of game congregated at watersources that you would in the dry season.However, the rains bring abundant food andmany animals give birth. There are nurseriesof tiny impala tottering around on wobbly legsand baby warthogs sprinting to burrows.Proliferation of vulnerable animals brings aboutincreased predator activity and sightings can beextraordinary. In early May packs of wild dogsare seen. Birding is exceptional with an influxof migratory birds arriving in the valley. Spiralsof migrating storks fill the air, heronries areformed and colonies of weavers’ nests hangover lagoons. Birds adopt colourful breedingplumage and mating displays are common.Safaris in the Green SeasonBecause of water levels, fewer camps areopen during the Green Season. Those thatdo remain open include Kapani Lodge, KakuliBushcamp, Nkwali, Nsefu, Mfuwe Lodge andKapamba Bushcamp. These camps have agood network of all-weather roads makinggame drives possible. In addition to gamedrives many camps offer boat trips on theLuangwa River. As visitor numbers are low,you can often enjoy private guiding fromsome of Zambia’s top guides.Special interest safarisThe Green Season lends itself to a number ofspecialist safaris. It is an excellent time of yearfor photographers as there is less dust and theair is crystal clear. The skies begin the day bluebefore building up in the afternoon withspectacular clouds and light. Two photographicworkshops are run in the South Luangwaallowing amateur photographers to improvetheir skills. Two migrations arrive in Zambiaat this time; blue wildebeest to the Liuwa plainin early November and ten million bats toKasanka in late November. Mobile safaris runto each migration. Finally, around early Maytwo wild dog safaris are run in the Luangwato see these endangered animals.Masked weaver displaying54

Suggested itinerariesTailoring your tripThe itineraries shown are designed to give you aflavour of what is possible, and are routes thatwork particularly well. We can use these as abasis to plan your trip or can design a completelydifferent itinerary to suit your tastes and interests.DEMOCRATIC REPUBLICOF CONGOZAMBIASouth LuangwaNational ParkDEMOCRATIC REPUBLICOF CONGOZAMBIASouth LuangwaNational ParkPlease call one of our Zambia specialists to startplanning your itinerary.Telephone: 01993 838 505LusakaLusakaLower ZambeziNational ParkGetting aroundLivingstoneZIMBABWEZIMBABWEZambia’s four main game areas are the KafueNational Park, Lower Zambezi National Park andthe North and South Luangwa Parks. Distancesbetween the parks are large and roads poor. Forthis reason we will fly you from one to the other,using a network of light aircraft flights. On arrivalat the airstrip you will be met by your guide withan open 4x4 and taken to your first camp. Atypical itinerary will usually incorporate a numberof camps in one park. Travelling from one to theother can either be done by game drive or onfoot, as many of Zambia’s camps are deliberatelyspaced at walking distance apart.When to goJan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓✓ ✓ ✓✓✓ The best time to travel.✓ A good time to travel, but there may be some factors to be aware of.~ Travel is possible, but this is not the best time of year.✕ Travel is not recommended.Zambia is situated in the tropics and receivesstrong sunlight and good rainfall. Its seasons canbroadly be divided into two periods, the dryseason which runs from May to the end ofOctober and the green season which run fromNovember to April. In the dry season you canexpect clear blue skies and sunshine. The monthsof July and August can be cold at night but arehot during the day. As the dry season progressesthe temperature rises with September andOctober seeing temperatures of over 30°C. FromNovember onwards, Zambia receives high rainfall.This leads to many areas becoming inaccessibleand the camps in the Kafue and Lower Zambeziclose. Some camps in the South Luangwa stayopen and offer good boat safaris. The vegetationexplodes, animals give birth and bird numbersswell with an influx of migrants.Time difference: GMT+2 hoursFlight time from UK: 10 hoursPricesWe offer trips to cater for a wide range ofbudgets. You can find up-to-date guideline pricesfor your trip to Zambia on our website,alternatively please call our specialists to discussyour plans.Classic ZambiaThis itinerary combines a stay on an island nearto the Victoria Falls with a week on a wild safariin the South Luangwa National Park. On tinySindabezi Island, in the middle of the ZambeziRiver, you can relax and enjoy boat trips on theriver. A spectacular flight across Zambia takes youto the heart of the South Luangwa National Park.Here we’ve chosen a series of small camps in aremote area of the park. You can spend your daysgame viewing from open vehicles or on foot, andas darkness falls, there is the chance to search forleopard, honey badgers, bushbabies andporcupines on a night drive.Day 1Days 2-4Days 5-7Days 8-9Fly from the UK to Livingstonevia Johannesburg.Arrive in Livingstone for three nightsat Sindabezi Island Camp. Explore theVictoria Falls, visit local village andtake boat trips on the Zambezi River.Fly to the South Luangwa for threenights at Chamilandu Bushcamp.Enjoy game drives, night drives andwalking safaris.Walk or game drive fromChamilandu to Chindeni Bushcamp.Further time on safari.Days 10-11 Game drive to Kapamba Bushcampfor two nights. Further time on safari.Day 12Day 13Stay longerGame drive from Kapamba to theairstrip. Fly to Lusaka for one night.Fly from Lusaka to the UK. Arriveback in the UK in the early evening.The South Luangwa combines easily with a beachstay on Lake Malawi. A light aircraft flight takes youstraight into Lilongwe from where you can drive orfly onwards to the lake. We recommend stayingon colourful Likoma Island, with its small fishingand farming villages and easy pace of life. With notraffic, the roads are ideal for cycling and there isplenty to see, from the golden beaches to theimpressive cathedral on the centre of the island.Stay a week or so at Kaya Mawa, an idyllicproperty perched up on rocks above crystal clearwaters, and spend your days relaxing beside thepool, on the beach, snorkelling, sailing and diving.Luangwa & LowerZambezi ExplorerThis itinerary uses three camps with primelocations in their respective parks. Combining theLuangwa and Lower Zambezi provides a goodcontrast in scenery, activities and game and gives arounded safari experience. Starting in the Luangwaat Kakuli Bushcamp you can enjoy day and nightgame drives before walking along the river toyour next camp, Muchenja. After time here, aspectacular flight over the Zambezi escarpmentbrings you to the Lower Zambezi. As well as dayand night game drives and walking safaris, theLower Zambezi is particularly good for boat trips.Day 1Days 2-4Days 5-7Days 8-11Day 12Stay longerFly from the UK to Lusaka.Arrive in Lusaka and connect witha flight to the South Luangwa fortwo nights at Kakuli Bushcamp.Enjoy game drives, night drives andwalking safaris.Walk or game drive to MchenjaBushcamp for two nights. Furthertime on safari.Game drive to the airstrip. Fly to theLower Zambezi for four nights atSausage Tree Camp. Enjoy gamedrives, night drives, walking safarisand boat trips on the Zambezi River.Fly to Lusaka and on to the UK.Arrive back in the UK in the evening.Complete the safari with a trip to the KafueNational Park. This spectacular wildlife area hasfew camps and is wild and unexplored. FromLufupa Lodge enjoy boat trips, walking safaris andgame drives. Then, take a trip up to the BusangaPlains to stay in Busanga Bushcamp and take tothe air in a hot air balloon.Viewing hippo on a walking safariwww.audleytravel.com/zambia ● 01993 838 505 ● Zambia 55 53