Lada Niva Endurance Rally Preparation - Ladaniva.co uk

Lada NivaEndurance RallyPreparationTranslated by Mary Waller,with thanks to David Rolston and KealanAllen.The “African” preparation depends on thecondition of your Niva, the mileage covered,and it has to be said on the way it is driven.We will show the essential points with anasterisk.The other modifications are included toallow you to put luck on your side to ensurea good trip.Lightening The VehicleIn the first instance think about lighteningthe car as much as possible, due to the factthat you will be adding to the weight withthe preparation procedures (extra fuel tank,drinking water supplies, food, tools, spareparts, personal belongings).You can remove all the useless elementsfitted as standard on NivasExamples:• Trim*• Floor carpets• Soundproofing (felt, even Blaxon/WaxOyl *)It is also possible to replace the doors, thebonnet and the tailgate with parts inglassfibre (available from the Pochnetwork).Fitting bucket seats instead of the originalsis only worthwhile if the weight difference issignificant and if you are worried aboutbackpain. The choice of bucket seat willallow you to have rear seats or load.Useful load of Niva: 400kgP.T.R.A. 1,590 kg*Blaxon/ WaxOyl also protects againstcorrosion. It adds to the weight but it alsoprotects your car – think about it andchoose…Bodywork – Reinforcements* Reinforcement of the front shockabsorber mountings• Continuous weld on the edge of thechassis arm C.• L : existing facingsA. parallel to the existing holes,carry out a line of facings onboth sides, in order to proceedto spot weldings of the shockabsorber support on the chassisarm. This, in addition to littlestrings/rows on the side edges ofthe latter.

Front wings (interior and exterior)• Weld or rivet the interiorreinforcements, originally bolted.• Redo the welding between thewindscreen bay and the wing, andalso between the roof andwindscreen bay – A and B below.• Using 2.5mm plate, bracket thecheek of the wing and apron (fig A)Engine CompartmentReinforce the front junction block on theapron at the level of the battery tray bywelding cold formed 1.2mm plates. Theplates are greyed out in the figs below.• For the reinforcement (1) on LHS ofthe engine compartment, limit itsheight under the clutch cylindermounting.• As for the chassis arms, re-do thewelding on the gearbox tunnel.• Reinforce the support brackets of thecoolingradiator.• Reinforce the front wing fixing on thebody side with a cold-formed platewelded to the windscreen bay.• Reinforce the wing welds on thebody side (drawing B)

Under the body• To reinforce the front tie-rod, weld afoot in plate (2.5mm thick) on the endof the support and the chassis arm (1on the drawing)• Weld a shaped plate (1.2mm thick)on the chassis arm to reinforce thispart of it and the support of thestabilizing bar (2 on the drawing)• Make the join between the chassisarm / front block of the cheek of thewing more rigid by welding a formedplate (1.5mm thick) on the chasisarm. Redo the neighbouring welds (3on drawing)The cockpitReinforce the floor on the passenger sideby welding a plate (1.5mm thick) shaped tothe floor (1 on drawing)Use the shape from the RHS to do thedriver’s side.• Redo the welds, at the level of thePanhard bar mount, on the bodyand reinforce the anchorage witha welded iron bar (2 on drawing)• Reinforce the anchorages of theupper tie rods with a weldedbracket (3 on drawing)

Air filterEnsure that the air filter seals properly. On dusty routes you cancover the air entry with a nylon stocking which should regularly have the dustremoved.Engine ventilation• Replace the mechanicalfan with an electric one.• Take out the old fan(keep it in the car incase of breakdown)• Take out the metaldeflector and replace itwith a plastic one andthe electric berline(truck) fan.It is possible to fit twoelectric fans.In all cases, you must avoidtaking off the radiator itselfto limit cracks throughvibrations.

It is advisable to mount an on/off switchwith a warning light in parallel with thethermocontact.Have the thermocontact fitted by aspecialist.Example wiring scheme :• Use a 30A relay and protect the linewith a 25-30A fuse, depending onthe power of the electric fan.CarburetorTo limit petrol consumption, we advise youto have your carburetor adjusted by aspecialist. On the other hand, the level ofthe reservoir plays an important part inconsumption. The distance between thejoint plane and the float is 6.5 mm.1. butterfly stop screw2. mixture richness screw3. sole reheating pipeOther possibilities : you can changethe original carb to a Weber (with aplastic float). Available from Weber.Advice : put an extra thermal block in.To fix the entirety, screw in longer pins.Petrol feedSeveral solutions are possible, and onceagain it’s up to you to choose the solutionbest adapted to your type of journey.Keeping the original pump: it must be ingood condition, and the refueling pressuremust be checked (250 g/cm2). Thisadjustment is done by increasing (pressuredrops) the block under the sole of thepump.Important : it is essential to redo the tinwelds of the float leg. These have atendency to break under vibration.Mounting an electric fuel pump, and bypassingit in case of breakdown(recommended solution) : in this case, takeoff the mechanical pump, take out the pushrod and remount the pump on the engine.Put the rod in a fuel pipe and use it to jointhe entry and exit pipes of the pump.

• The state of the HT leads (resistance1000 to 1500 Ω).• The coil (primary resistance 3 to 5 Ω,secondary resistance 5.4 to 9.2 Ω).Advice :• Mount a second coil as spare.• Seal the distributor by plugging theholes on the head with silicon from atube.• Stop the ends of the HT leads bytightening the caps on the head ofthe distributor with tie-wraps. Do thesame thing for the spark plug caps.Spray water repellant over the entireignition system.Exhaust• Stop the bronze collector nuts withplate or counter-nuts.• You can replace the exhaust fixingbelts with silentblocs• Check the fixing of the exhaust collaron the gearbox.Other mounting:If you have mounted a tank in place of theexhaust, you must fit a Thuvignon lateralexhaust (tel. 34.19.53.42). The previousadvice is still relevant.Petrol TanksAutonomy will depend on the areastraveled and the availability of petrolsupplies. If we consider a consumptionof 20 litres/100 km (load and terrain),then 800 km of autonomy is a safeguard.There are two solutions:• Take along jericans• Adapt a secondary tank.The original 45 litre tank will necessitate5 or 6 20 litre jericans. This represents aweight of approximately 90 kg for 120litres, which you can spread inside oroutside the car.Limit heavy weights on the roof – holdingthe road off-road becomes precarious(the centre of gravity is too high, andthere is a tendency to bounce).You can mount a 75 litre tank under thecar in place of the exhaust. A completekit (tank, guage, three-way tap andlateral exhaust) is sold by the companyThuvignon.For a greater autonomy, you can adapt atank inside the car (preferably behind thefront seats to distribute the weight).There are specialists who can make madeto-measurealuminium tanks (the mostexpensive solution).In all cases, this is an important preparationthat must be treated very seriously (forsafety reasons).

Gearbox• Check the gearbox works well, alsothe seals and the tightness of thebolts.• Check the state of the silentbloc atthe mount point and replace thescrews with six-sided BTR screws(see bodywork)• Use joint compound to seal betweenthe engine and the gearbox.• Lock the silentbloc fixing bolts on thegearbox.Clutch• Fit a more powerful Valeo clutch kit(disc, mechanism and stop).• The working and adjustment shouldbe perfect, and there should be no oilleaks.Drive ShaftImportant: The location of the parts isimperative in the event of disassembling.• Fit the universal joints wellgreased.• If vibrations are felt after changingthe universal joints get yourtransmission balanced by aspecialist.Advice• For safety, it’s better to fit Europeanbearings.• Reinforce the gearbox with a platewelded across it (2.5mm thick).1. greasing the sleeve2. balancing weights

Transfer BoxA careful revision of the transfer box mustbe made.As for the gearbox, original bearings mustbe replaced by European ones.• Check the locking of the pinionshafts (before model 87).• Lock the rim fixing screws (on thedifferential) and all the bolts withLoctite.• Replace the original floor fixingscrews by 6-sided BTR screwswelded on a reinforcement plate (seebodywork).DifferentialFor Nivas built before 1987 it’s best toreplace the case to a new one that has steelholds behind each pinion.In all cases, it is possible to improve thegreasing of the pinions by grinding spiderypatterns into the part in contact with thecase.The pinion lubrication problem only appearsif the car runs a long time at a fast pace, sooff-road there is nothing to worry about.Transfer box differentialAdvice:Whatever the origin of the transfer box, itmust be well sealed. This will avoid havingto do frequent and impractical oil top-ups.Front Axel and Power Train• Replace the original bearings withEuropean ones. The seals must beperfect.• Locktite and nylstop the axel fixingbolts and the cap bolts.The power train must be in good conditionand not have any significant play. Therubber boots must be changed if they showsigns of leakage or damage.If used for long periods with damagedboots it will be necessary to change thecomplete transmission.Remove the plastic bowls.

Back AxleAxle beam:• Reinforce the axle half-shafts with3mm plate in a U-shape (to be doneby a specialist to avoid deformations)the axle is mounted. Checkregularly at each stage.• Check the welds of the upperstabilizing bars and lock theirfixing bolts on the bodywork.• Reinforce the anchorage points ofthe rear shock absorbers and thelower ties of the axle with a plate.DifferentialsAxle nose:As for the front axle, it’s advisable toreplace the original bearings and also thelip seal of the drive pinion.• Lock the fixing bolts of the largecrown with Loctite.• Ensure the axle is well sealed.• Replace the fixing bolts of the axlenose with six-sided BTR boltslocked with locking thread. Theheads should be drilled (0.8mmdiam hole)• On the inside of the axle you canalso bolt 8 x 30 BTR bolts(threaded all their length & lockedwith Loctite) in the tapped holesthat fix the nose of the axle. Usinglocking washers and Nylstop nutsallow a permanent tightening afterIf you are sure of always (or often) drivingon hard ground then the originaldifferentials are OK.If most of your journey will be on sand orwet ground it is in your interest toreplace the differentials with some withshorter ratios. Your speed will be slightlyreduced (about 115 km/h) but you willbetter your chances of clearing yourNiva.• The 2101 axle (break) is well adapted(9/40).

should be done using a leg welded onthe cheek of the wing.Front and rear suspension• Replace the original springs withAfrican type springs.• Replace the original shock absorberswith African type shock absorbers.• Reverse the direction of the rearshock absorber and stabilizing barmounting bolts. This avoidsdamaging the thread of the bolts withflying stones, so the parts can bereplaced easily. This manoevre isrelevant wherever this could be aproblem.Warning!The new anchorage position will dependon the maximum travel of the shockabsorber. To determine the position,raise the vehicle with the front wheelshanging and mount the shock on thelower triangle. Fix the upper leg on theshock, let the shock out to its maximumtravel, locate its position (tack it ifnecessary) then weld the leg all aroundits perimeter.The shock absorbers should not, underany circumstance, hold the suspensionin place when the wheels are hanging.Doubling up the Shock Absorbers• Mounting two shock absorbers ateach wheel gives the advantage ofreducing the amount of work doneby each. The overloading of the carand the difficult terrain takes a lot outof the shock absorbers, which tendto overheat and become almostuseless.Doubling up the shocks allows shockabsorbency to be maintained withoutreducing the road holding of the car.The additional shock absorber should beof the African type, and should bemounted on the edge of the suspensiontriangle using a plate. The upper mountThe rear shock absorber is situated inthe spring. The lower mount is made bywelding two legs to the lower coil springseat.The upper mount is made from theinside of the cockpit, by welding asupport on the cheek of the rear wing.The shock passes through a hole cut outin the middle of the upper guide of thespring.Seal the cutout and the top of the shockwith silicon paste.

Rear suspension clearanceAs for the front suspension, the rear shockabsorbers should not hold the axle in place.At the front, the upper triangle is held inplace by a flexible stop. At the rear, strapsor slings (one on each side) should bemounted – paying attention to theadjustment.Nylon straps or slingsOpinions are divided so the choice is yours.Straps have the advantage of being suppleand not damaging the half-shafts. Theyhave the disadvantage of being exposed toflying stones and wearing out or breaking.This type of problem doesn’t occur withbelts, but violent enough shocks will be feltevery time the wheel leaves the ground.1. suspension stop to replace2. play adjusting bolt of the hub3. suspension spring to replace4. hub carrier5. 6. Mount BTR bolts and Nyslop nuts.Front SuspensionFront axle• The entirety of the front axle must bein good condition and well adjusted.• Reverse the direction of track rodsand tack the bolts on the tighteningcollars of the sleeves (small ball-jointon the inside, long one on theoutside)To make replacement easier, themounting of the track rods must bedone with care. The threads shouldbe well greased and shouldn’t jam.If you have made this modification, youmust make it both at the front and rear tomaintain the balance of the car.It is possible to do it only at the rear axel forweight reasons, but never ever just at thefront.Reinforcing the adjusting sleeves:The sleeves are weakened by the use of asplit down their length.A 3mm thick ring with the interior diameteradapted to the outside of the sleeves (made

to measure in place) and about 25mm longshould be slipped into place in a way thatleaves room for the tightening collars.Replace the original mounting bolts withupper and lower ball joints with BTR boltsand Nylstop nuts.Steering column• Replace the auto-breaking screwswith BTR screws.• Check and eventually re-weld thecolumn support.(relais de direction)to avoid excessive play, replace the originalrings with bronze ones of the same size.Front hub nutsIf you have had to take out thetransmission, the adjustment of the wheelbearings is done as follows:• Tighten the bolt to 1 m daN¹ to putthe bearings in place while turningthe wheel and slacken by 25°. Theconical/beveled bearings shouldnever be tightened and the playshould be close to 0 (about 0.05mm).• Don’t forget to lock the bolts.¹ tightening torqueAnti-roll barFront suspension cross-memberTo avoid shattering the suspension armcasings in the event of a violent shock, youcan encase (1) them in a 5mm thick ring.• Weld two tubes (2), the flattenedends welded to the centre of thecross-member and fixed to therotational axis of the triangle.• Replace the washers on the lowerrotational axis of the triangle with asingle one of the same thickness, forease of disassembly.

ElectricsThe entire wiring loom must be checkedand adequately protected in places wherethere is a risk of damage (from plates andthe heat of the exhaust).• Reinforce the protection of thestarter motor against the heat of theexhaust by an asbestos cover (poprivet with bands of plate).• Check and lock the solenoid bolts.Alternator:• Put a nylon stocking filter on the airintake of the alternator.• Mount an electronic regulator inplace of the original (take care thatthe ?mass/?unit is perfect).Fuse box:Protect against oxidization with aspecialized product. After, turn the fusesfrom time to time to remove the inevitableoxidization points and to ensure goodcontacts.Fix the combined dashboard instrumentswith a threaded rod and Nylstop nuts.Some General Tips• Lock the hinge-pins of the tailgatehinges with a pin.• Mount boot-catches so thevibrations don’t break the originals.• Double-up the speedometer cable• Re-weld the mounting foot of thepivot of the accelerator on therocker arm and the pulling arm ofthe accelerator (rod of 8 with twofeet).• To plug in a card reader, use thesupply in the passenger ceilinglight.• The roof-rack must be of very goodquality (CFDA/78 Coignières).• Replace the original steering wheelwith that fitted on the 2107 saloon.• To avoid the windscreen coming outof its fixing under impact, fix fouraluminium arms on the pillars.• Fitting a work spotlight will do youmore favours than fitting extraspotlights.• You can install a second toothedrack instead of the guidance slideon the front seats.• To eliminate water ingress incertainunits (gearbox, transfer box,front and rear axles), you canreplace the free-air valves bydrains coming up to the cock-pit.Care of the CarAt Each stage, systematically check thefollowing:• Tighteness of all the nuts and boltsunder the body, especially thepropeller/universal shafts, themounting of the front suspension(and all the associated parts(balljoints, suspenson triangle, etc).• Tightness of all the bolts from thecap (nose?) of the front axle to the

transfer box, also the transfer box’smounts.• Tightness of the silentbloc rear of thegearbox.• Tightness of the nose of the frontaxle on the banjo, also the reactionpush rods and the anti-rollbar.• Visually check the anti-rollbar.• Tightness of the axis of the uppertriangle (put a drilled counter-nutwith a pin).• Tightness of the brake backplates.Check for leaks and replenish levelsfor the :• Engine. Check the tightness of the oilfilter.• Front axle• Gearbox• Transfer box• Rear axle• Radiator• Battery• Windscreen washerCheck the state and replace asnecessary :• The fan belt• All hoses (check for leaks betweenthe water pump and heater hose).• Radiator core (cleaning, possiblyfilling) .Check the fixing and state of :• Extension – retraction of the shockabsorbers at all difficult stages.Check the play in :• The transmission system, thesteering and eventually theadjustment of the housing.• Front hubs and wheel bearings• Rear axle shaft bearings – noise andplay.Clean or replace:• Air filter• Fuel filterVisually check:• All the electrical and accessoriesconnections.• Brakes for leaks and good workingorder.• Wheel rims – eventually straighten orreplace them.• The state and pressure of the tyres(don’t forget for these last two itemsto check the insides of the wheelsand the inside walls of the tyres)• The inflection of the rear axle(without the wheels)..Tools and ToolsetsMost important spare parts• Upper hose from radiator to engineblock.• Hose from engine block to thethermostat.• Hose from thermostat to the radiator.• Small hose from the water pump tothe thermostat.• Heater hose.• Fan belt.• 4 spark-plugs.• Complete distributor, comprising:o Distributor capo Contactso Condenser• Rotor arm and set of HT leads.• Carburetor float.• Carburetor return spring.• Oil filter.• Lots of air filters.• Wheel nuts.• Inner tubes.• Fuel pipe by the metre.• A front and rear shock aabsorber.

• Tachometer.• Complete track rods.• Carburetor plastic control rods.• Complete balljoint.• Neiman cartridge.• Fuses.• Thermostat• Stabilizing bar fixation brackets.• Silentbloc set for transfer box fixing.ToolkitSupplies• Engine oil• TMG-EP 80 oil for transfer box, frontand back axles.• Grease• Electrical cable• Electrical wire• Assortment of “Serflux” clips, 3 or 4.• Loctite thread lock.• Inner tube puncture repair kit.• Mastic (type Cosmofer, Metolux)• Roll of sticky tape.• (?Bande W)• Flexible water container• Raffia matting.• Joint compound (Loctite blue joint)• Cottar pins• 2 universal joints (L and R)• an alternator• Axle ties (long and short)• A rear and a front spring• Brake pads• The original mechanical fan• A Panhard bar• Rope or straps• Jerricans of water• Sand ladders.Personal effects• Sleeping bag and camp-bed.• Flexible water containers• Collapsible bucket• Drinks container• Binoculars• Clothes• Safety equipment• First-aid kit• Adjustable open-end wrenches.• Set of BTR spanners (if you fittedthe BTR screws)• 50 hammer.• Mallet• Set of flat and cross headscrewdrivers• Wire cutters• Adjustable pliers• A grip vice• A set of pin drifts.• A crowbar.• A jemmy.• Ball-joint splitter.• Bradawl.• Knife• Pair of scissors• Scraper.• Flexible spade• Metal saw• Lada toolkit containingo Hand pumpo Tyre leverAdvised:• Riveter and set of rivets.• Hand drill and drill-bits.• Socket set with 210 lengthener.• Hydraulic jack.• Oil syringe.• Nylon rope.