Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

1595Ford Fiesta Remake2D•24 Engine removal and overhaul procedures17.20 Refit the crankshaft after checkingbearing clearancescareful not to scratch the bearing - use yourfingernail or the edge of a credit card.Final crankshaft refitting18 Carefully lift the crankshaft out of theengine. Clean the bearing surfaces of theshells in the block, then apply a thin, uniformlayer of clean molybdenum disulphide-basedgrease, engine assembly lubricant, or cleanengine oil to each surface. Coat thethrustwasher surfaces as well.19 Lubricate the crankshaft oil seal journalswith molybdenum disulphide-based grease,engine assembly lubricant, or clean engine oil.20 Make sure the crankshaft journals areclean, then lay the crankshaft back in place inthe block (see illustration). Clean the bearingsurfaces of the shells in the caps, thenlubricate them. Install the caps in theirrespective positions, with the arrows pointingto the timing belt/chain end of the engine.21 Working on one cap at a time, from thecentre main bearing outwards (and ensuringthat each cap is tightened down squarely andevenly onto the block), tighten the mainbearing cap bolts to the specified torquewrench setting.22 Rotate the crankshaft a number of timesby hand, to check for any obvious binding.23 Check the crankshaft endfloat (see Section12). It should be correct if the crankshaftthrust faces aren’t worn or damaged.24 Refit the crankshaft left-hand oil sealcarrier, and install a new seal (see Part A, Bor C of this Chapter according to engine type).18 Piston/connecting rodassemblies - refitting and big-endbearing running clearance check4Note: On HCS engines, new big-end bearingcap retaining bolts will be required forreassembly.1 Before refitting the piston/connecting rodassemblies, the cylinder bores must beperfectly clean, the top edge of each cylindermust be chamfered, and the crankshaft mustbe in place.2 Remove the big-end bearing cap from No 1cylinder connecting rod (refer to the marksnoted or made on removal). Remove theoriginal bearing shells, and wipe the bearingrecesses of the connecting rod and cap with aclean, lint-free cloth. They must be keptspotlessly-clean!Big-end bearing runningclearance check3 Clean the back of the new upper bearingshell, fit it to the connecting rod, then fit theother shell of the bearing set to the big-endbearing cap. Make sure that the tab on eachshell fits into the notch in the rod or caprecess (see illustration).Caution: Don’t hammer the shells intoplace, and don’t nick or gouge the bearingface. Don’t lubricate the bearing at thistime.4 It’s critically important that all matingsurfaces of the bearing components areperfectly clean and oil-free when they’reassembled.5 Position the piston ring gaps as describedin Section 16, lubricate the piston and ringswith clean engine oil, and attach a piston ringcompressor to the piston. Leave the skirtprotruding about a quarter-inch, to guide thepiston into the cylinder bore. The rings mustbe compressed until they’re flush with thepiston.6 Rotate the crankshaft until No 1 crankpin(big-end) journal is at BDC (Bottom DeadCentre), and apply a coat of engine oil to thecylinder walls.7 Arrange the No 1 piston/connecting rodassembly so that the arrow on the pistoncrown points to the timing belt/chain end ofthe engine. Gently insert the assembly into theNo 1 cylinder bore, and rest the bottom edgeof the ring compressor on the engine block.8 Tap the top edge of the ring compressor tomake sure it’s contacting the block around itsentire circumference.9 Gently tap on the top of the piston with theend of a wooden hammer handle (seeillustration), while guiding the connectingrod’s big-end onto the crankpin. The pistonrings may try to pop out of the ringcompressor just before entering the cylinderbore, so keep some pressure on the ringcompressor. Work slowly, and if anyresistance is felt as the piston enters thecylinder, stop immediately. Find out what’sbinding, and fix it before proceeding. Do not,for any reason, force the piston into thecylinder - you might break a ring and/or thepiston.10 To check the big-end bearing runningclearance, cut a piece of the appropriate-sizePlastigauge slightly shorter than the width ofthe connecting rod bearing, and lay it in placeon the No 1 crankpin (big-end) journal, parallelwith the crankshaft centre-line (seeillustration 17.11).11 Clean the connecting rod-to-cap matingsurfaces, and refit the big-end bearing cap.Tighten the cap bolts evenly - on the HCS andZetec engines, first use a torque wrench totighten the bolts to the Stage 1 torque setting,then use an ordinary socket extension bar andan angle gauge to tighten the bolts furtherthrough the Stage 2 angle (see illustration).On the CVH and PTE engines, tighten thebolts progressively to the specified torque;further angle-tightening is not required onthese engines. Use a thin-wall socket, toavoid erroneous torque readings that canresult if the socket is wedged between thecap and nut. If the socket tends to wedgeitself between the nut and the cap, lift up on itslightly until it no longer contacts the cap.Don’t rotate the crankshaft at any time duringthis operation!12 Unscrew the bolts and detach the cap,being very careful not to disturb thePlastigauge.13 Compare the width of the crushed18.3 Tab on each big-end bearing shellmust engage with notch in connecting rodor cap18.9 The piston can be driven gently intothe cylinder bore with the end of a woodenor plastic hammer handle18.11 Angle-tightening the big-end boltsusing the correct tool