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Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

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1595Ford Fiesta Remake2D•22 Engine removal <strong>and</strong> overhaul proceduresnecessary for reassembly of the engine are ath<strong>and</strong>. In addition to all normal tools <strong>and</strong>materials, jointing <strong>and</strong> thread lockingcompound will be needed during enginereassembly. For general-purpose applications,it is recommended that Loctite 275 settingsealer or Hylomar PL32M non-setting sealerbe used for joints where required, <strong>and</strong>Loctite 270 for stud <strong>and</strong> bolt thread-locking.For specific applications on Zetec engines,Hylosil 102 for the cylinder block/crankcaseto-sump/oilpump/oil seal carrier joints, <strong>and</strong>Loctite 518 for the camshaft right-h<strong>and</strong>bearing caps should be used. These arerecommended by, <strong>and</strong> obtained from, Forddealers. In all other cases, provided therelevant mating surfaces are clean <strong>and</strong> flat,new gaskets will be sufficient to ensure jointsare oil-tight. Do not use any kind of siliconebasedsealant on any part of the fuel system orinlet manifold, <strong>and</strong> never use exhaust sealantsupstream of the catalytic converter.2 In order to save time <strong>and</strong> avoid problems,engine reassembly can be carried out in thefollowing order (as applicable).a) Engine ventilation cap (CVH <strong>and</strong>PTE engines).b) Tappets <strong>and</strong> camshaft (HCS engines).c) Crankshaft <strong>and</strong> main bearings.d) Pistons <strong>and</strong> connecting rods.e) Oil pump.f) Sump.g) Flywheel/driveplate.h) Cylinder head.i) Timing sprockets <strong>and</strong> chain/belt.j) Engine external components.3 Ensure that everything is clean prior toreassembly. As mentioned previously, dirt <strong>and</strong>metal particles can quickly destroy bearings<strong>and</strong> result in major engine damage. Use cleanengine oil to lubricate during reassembly.16 Piston rings - refitting21 Before installing new piston rings, checkthe end gaps. Lay out each piston set with apiston/connecting rod assembly, <strong>and</strong> keep16.6 Look for etched markings (“STD” -indicating a st<strong>and</strong>ard-sized ring - shownhere) identifying piston ring top surfacethem together as a matched set from now on.2 Insert the top compression ring into the firstcylinder, <strong>and</strong> square it up with the cylinderwalls by pushing it in with the top of thepiston. The ring should be near the bottom ofthe cylinder, at the lower limit of ring travel.3 To measure the end gap, slip feeler gaugesbetween the ends of the ring, until a gaugeequal to the gap width is found. The feelergauge should slide between the ring endswith a slight amount of drag. Compare themeasurement to the value given in theSpecifications in this <strong>Chapter</strong>; if the gap islarger or smaller than specified, double-checkto make sure you have the correct ringsbefore proceeding. If you are assessing thecondition of used rings, have the cylinderbores checked <strong>and</strong> measured by a Forddealer or similar engine reconditioningspecialist, so that you can be sure of exactlywhich component is worn, <strong>and</strong> seek advice asto the best course of action to take.4 If the end gap is still too small, it must beopened up by careful filing of the ring endsusing a fine file. If it is too large, this is not asserious, unless the specified limit is exceeded,in which case very careful checking isrequired of the dimensions of all components,as well as of the new parts.5 Repeat the procedure for each ring that willbe installed in the first cylinder, <strong>and</strong> for eachring in the remaining cylinders. Remember tokeep rings, pistons <strong>and</strong> cylinders matched up.6 Refit the piston rings as follows. Where theoriginal rings are being refitted, use the marksor notes made on removal, to ensure thateach ring is refitted to its original groove <strong>and</strong>the same way up. New rings generally havetheir top surfaces identified by markings(often an indication of size, such as “STD”, orthe word “TOP”) - the rings must be fitted withsuch markings uppermost (see illustration).Note: Always follow the instructions printedon the ring package or box - differentmanufacturers may require differentapproaches. Do not mix up the top <strong>and</strong>second compression rings, as they usuallyhave different cross-sections.7 The oil control ring (lowest one on thepiston) is usually installed first. It is composedof three separate elements. Slip thespacer/exp<strong>and</strong>er into the groove. If ananti-rotation tang is used, make sure it isinserted into the drilled hole in the ring groove.Next, install the lower side rail. Don’t use apiston ring installation tool on the oil ring siderails, as they may be damaged. Instead, placeone end of the side rail into the groovebetween the spacer/exp<strong>and</strong>er <strong>and</strong> the ringl<strong>and</strong>, hold it firmly in place, <strong>and</strong> slide a fingeraround the piston while pushing the rail intothe groove. Next, install the upper side rail inthe same manner.8 After the three oil ring components havebeen installed, check that both the upper <strong>and</strong>lower side rails can be turned smoothly in thering groove.9 The second compression (middle) ring isinstalled next, followed by the topcompression ring - ensure their marks areuppermost, <strong>and</strong> be careful not to confusethem. Don’t exp<strong>and</strong> either ring any more thannecessary to slide it over the top of the piston.10 On HCS engines, when all of the rings arefitted to each piston, arrange them so that thegaps are positioned as described in theSpecifications at the start of this <strong>Chapter</strong>.11 On the CVH <strong>and</strong> PTE engines, when all ofthe rings are fitted to each piston, arrangethem so that the gaps are spaced at 120ºintervals, with no gaps positioned above thegudgeon pin hole.12 On Zetec engines, when all the rings arefitted to each piston, space the ring gaps(including the elements of the oil control ring)uniformly around the piston at 120º intervals.17 Crankshaft - refitting <strong>and</strong>main bearing running4clearance check1 It is assumed at this point that the cylinderblock/crankcase <strong>and</strong> crankshaft have beencleaned, inspected <strong>and</strong> repaired orreconditioned as necessary. Position theengine upside-down.2 Remove the main bearing cap bolts, <strong>and</strong> liftout the caps. Lay the caps out in the properorder, to ensure correct installation.3 If they’re still in place, remove the oldbearing shells from the block <strong>and</strong> the mainbearing caps. Wipe the bearing recesses ofthe block <strong>and</strong> caps with a clean, lint-freecloth. They must be kept spotlessly-clean!Main bearing running clearancecheckHCS engines4 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats inthe crankcase, <strong>and</strong> clean the backs of thebearing shells. Insert the respective uppershells (dry) into position in the crankcase.Note that the upper shells have grooves inthem (the lower shells are plain, <strong>and</strong> have awider location lug). Where the old mainbearings are being refitted, ensure that theyare located in their original positions. Makesure that the tab on each bearing shell fits intothe notch in the block or cap.Caution: Don’t hammer the shells intoplace, <strong>and</strong> don’t nick or gouge the bearingfaces. No lubrication should be used atthis time.5 Place the crankshaft thrustwashers intoposition in the crankcase, so that their oilgrooves are facing outwards (away from thecentral web) (see illustration).CVH <strong>and</strong> PTE engines6 Wipe clean the main bearing shell seats inthe crankcase, <strong>and</strong> clean the backs of thebearing shells. Insert the respective uppershells (dry) into position in the crankcase.Note that with the exception of the front mainbearing, the upper shells have grooves in

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