Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing
Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing
1595Ford Fiesta Remake2D•16 Engine removal and overhaul procedures9.8 Locate the seal, and tap it into positionover the guideor press the seal squarely into place, using asuitable tube or socket (see illustration).9 To protect the seal lips from beingdamaged by the collet grooves in the valvestem as it is passed through the seal, wipeany oil from the stem at the top, and mask thesplit collet groove on the stem with insulatingtape. Lubricate the lips of the valve stem seal,and insert the valve (see illustration).10 Remove the tape from the groovedsection of the valve stem, then locate thespring and the upper retainer over the valve.11 Locate the valve spring compressor intoposition, and compress the spring and cupdown the valve stem so that the collet’sgroove is exposed above the upper retainer.Lightly grease the collet’s groove in the stem,(to retain the collets in position) then locatethe split collets into the groove in the stem.Slowly release and remove the valve springcompressor. As the compressor is released,ensure that the collets remain fully seated inthe groove, and the upper retainer rides upover them to secure them in position (seeillustration).12 Repeat the above operations on theremaining valves, ensuring that each valveassembly is returned to its original position, orwhere new valves have been fitted, onto theseat to which it was ground.13 When all of the valves have been fitted,support the cylinder head on a wooden block,and using a plastic or copper-faced hammer,lightly tap the end of each valve stem in turnto seat the respective valve assemblies.9.9 Insert the valve into its guide14 Refit the camshaft, tappets and rockerarms to the cylinder head as described inPart B of this Chapter.Zetec engines15 Beginning at one end of the head,lubricate and install the first valve. Applymolybdenum disulphide-based grease orclean engine oil to the valve stem, and refit thevalve. Where the original valves are being reused,ensure that each is refitted in its originalguide. If new valves are being fitted, insertthem into the locations to which they havebeen ground.16 Fit the plastic protector supplied with newvalve spring lower seat/stem oil seals to theend of the valve stem, then put the new sealsquarely on top of the guide, and leave itthere; the action of refitting the valve springpresses the lower seat/stem oil seal into place(see illustration).17 Refit the valve spring and upper seat.18 Compress the spring with a valve springcompressor, and carefully install the collets inthe stem groove. Apply a small dab of greaseto each collet to hold it in place if necessary.Slowly release the compressor, and makesure the collets seat properly.19 When the valve is installed, place thecylinder head flat on the bench and, using ahammer and interposed block of wood, tapthe end of the valve stem gently, to settle thecomponents.20 Repeat the procedure for the remainingvalves. Be sure to return the components to9.11 Insert the split collets into the groovein the valve stemtheir original locations - don’t mix them up!21 Refit the hydraulic tappets as described inPart C of this Chapter.10 Camshaft and tappets -removal, inspection and3refitting (HCS engines)Removal1 Refer to the applicable Sections in Part A ofthis Chapter and remove the cylinder head,timing chain and camshaft sprocket, and thesump.2 Invert the engine so that it is supported onits cylinder head face (on a clean work area).This is necessary to make all of the tappetsslide to the top of their stroke, thus allowingthe camshaft to be withdrawn. Rotate thecamshaft through a full turn, to ensure that allof the tappets slide up their bores, clear of thecamshaft.3 Before removing the camshaft, check itsendfloat using a dial gauge mounted on thefront face of the engine or feeler gauges. Pullthe camshaft fully towards the front (timingchain) end of the engine, then insert feelergauges between the camshaft sprocket flangeand the camshaft thrust plate to assess theendfloat clearance (see illustration). Thecamshaft endfloat must be as specified.4 Undo the two retaining bolts, and removethe camshaft thrust plate.5 Carefully withdraw the camshaft from thefront end of the engine (see illustration).9.16 Valve spring pressure is sufficient toseat lower seat/stem oil seals onreassembly10.3 Checking the camshaft endfloat10.5 Withdrawing the camshaft from thefront of the engine
Engine removal and overhaul procedures 2D•176 Extract each tappet in turn. Keep them inorder of fitting by inserting them in a card witheight holes in it, numbered 1 to 8 (from thetiming chain end of the engine). A valvegrinding suction tool will be found to be usefulfor the removal of tappets (see illustration).Inspection7 Examine the camshaft bearing journals andlobes for damage or excessive wear. Ifevident, the camshaft must be renewed.8 Examine the camshaft bearing internalsurfaces for signs of damage or excessivewear. If evident, the bearings must berenewed by a Ford dealer.9 If not carried out on removal, check thecamshaft endfloat as described in paragraph3. If the endfloat is exceeds thespecified tolerance, renew the thrust plate.10 It is seldom that the tappets wearexcessively in their bores, but it is likely thatafter a high mileage, the cam lobe contactsurfaces will show signs of depression orgrooving.11 Where this condition is evident, renew thetappets. Grinding out the grooves and wearmarks will reduce the thickness of the surfacehardening, and will accelerate further wear.Refitting12 To refit the tappets and the camshaft, it isessential that the crankcase is inverted.13 Lubricate their bores and the tappets.Insert each tappet fully into its original bore inthe cylinder block.14 Lubricate the camshaft bearings,camshaft and thrust plate, then insert thecamshaft into the crankcase from the timingcase end.15 Fit the thrust plate and tighten theretaining bolts to the specified torque setting(see illustration). Check that the camshaft isable to rotate freely, and that the endfloat is asspecified.11 Piston/connecting rodassemblies - removal and4inspectionRemovalHCS engines1 Refer to Part A of this Chapter and removethe cylinder head and sump, then remove theoil pick-up pipe and strainer.2 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, sothat the crankshaft can be rotated. Check thatthe connecting rod big-end caps haveadjacent matching numbers facing towardsthe camshaft side of the engine. If no markscan be seen, make your own before disturbingany of the components, so that you can becertain of refitting each piston/connecting rodassembly the right way round, to its correct(original) bore, with the cap also the right wayround.10.6 Tappet withdrawal using a valvegrinding tool suction cupCVH and PTE engines3 Refer to Part B of this Chapter and removethe cylinder head and sump, then remove theoil pick-up pipe and strainer.4 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, sothat the crankshaft can be rotated. Check thatthe connecting rods have identificationnumbers - these should be found on theexhaust side of the big-ends. No 1 assemblyis at the timing belt end of the engine. If nomarks can be seen, make your own beforedisturbing any of the components, so that youcan be certain of refitting each piston/connecting rod assembly the right way round,to its correct (original) bore, with the cap alsothe right way round.Zetec engines5 Refer to Part C of this Chapter and removethe cylinder head and sump.6 Undo the screws securing the oil pumppick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, thenunscrew the four nuts, and withdraw the oilpump pick-up/strainer pipe and oil baffle (seeillustration).7 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, sothat the crankshaft can be rotated. Note thateach piston/connecting rod assembly can beidentified by its cylinder number (countingfrom the timing belt end of the engine) etchedinto the flat-machined surface of both theconnecting rod and its cap. The numbers arevisible from the front (exhaust side) of theengine (see illustration). Furthermore, each10.15 Refitting the camshaft thrust platepiston has an arrow stamped into its crown,pointing towards the timing belt end of theengine. If no marks can be seen, make yourown before disturbing any of the components,so that you can be certain of refitting eachpiston/connecting rod assembly the right wayround, to its correct (original) bore, with thecap also the right way round.All engines8 Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge hasformed at the upper limit of ring travel (about aquarter-inch down from the top of eachcylinder). If carbon deposits or cylinder wearhave produced ridges, they must becompletely removed with a special tool.Follow the tool manufacturer’s instructionsprovided. Failure to remove the ridges beforeattempting to remove the piston/connectingrod assemblies may result in piston ringbreakage.9 Slacken each of the big-end bearing capbolts half a turn at a time, until they can beremoved by hand. Remove the No 1 cap andbearing shell. Don’t drop the shell out of thecap.10 Remove the upper bearing shell, and pushthe connecting rod/piston assembly outthrough the top of the engine. Use a woodenhammer handle to push on the connectingrod’s bearing recess. If resistance is felt,double-check that all of the ridge wasremoved from the cylinder.11 Repeat the procedure for the remainingcylinders.2D11.6 Removing the oil baffle to provideaccess to crankshaft and bearings11.7 Each connecting rod and big-endbearing cap will have a flat-machinedsurface with the cylinder number etched in it1595Ford Fiesta Remake
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Engine removal <strong>and</strong> overhaul procedures 2D•176 Extract each tappet in turn. Keep them inorder of fitting by inserting them in a card witheight holes in it, numbered 1 to 8 (from thetiming chain end of the engine). A valvegrinding suction tool will be found to be usefulfor the removal of tappets (see illustration).Inspection7 Examine the camshaft bearing journals <strong>and</strong>lobes for damage or excessive wear. Ifevident, the camshaft must be renewed.8 Examine the camshaft bearing internalsurfaces for signs of damage or excessivewear. If evident, the bearings must berenewed by a Ford dealer.9 If not carried out on removal, check thecamshaft endfloat as described in paragraph3. If the endfloat is exceeds thespecified tolerance, renew the thrust plate.10 It is seldom that the tappets wearexcessively in their bores, but it is likely thatafter a high mileage, the cam lobe contactsurfaces will show signs of depression orgrooving.11 Where this condition is evident, renew thetappets. Grinding out the grooves <strong>and</strong> wearmarks will reduce the thickness of the surfacehardening, <strong>and</strong> will accelerate further wear.Refitting12 To refit the tappets <strong>and</strong> the camshaft, it isessential that the crankcase is inverted.13 Lubricate their bores <strong>and</strong> the tappets.Insert each tappet fully into its original bore inthe cylinder block.14 Lubricate the camshaft bearings,camshaft <strong>and</strong> thrust plate, then insert thecamshaft into the crankcase from the timingcase end.15 Fit the thrust plate <strong>and</strong> tighten theretaining bolts to the specified torque setting(see illustration). Check that the camshaft isable to rotate freely, <strong>and</strong> that the endfloat is asspecified.11 Piston/connecting rodassemblies - removal <strong>and</strong>4inspectionRemovalHCS engines1 Refer to Part A of this <strong>Chapter</strong> <strong>and</strong> removethe cylinder head <strong>and</strong> sump, then remove theoil pick-up pipe <strong>and</strong> strainer.2 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, sothat the crankshaft can be rotated. Check thatthe connecting rod big-end caps haveadjacent matching numbers facing towardsthe camshaft side of the engine. If no markscan be seen, make your own before disturbingany of the components, so that you can becertain of refitting each piston/connecting rodassembly the right way round, to its correct(original) bore, with the cap also the right wayround.10.6 Tappet withdrawal using a valvegrinding tool suction cupCVH <strong>and</strong> PTE engines3 Refer to Part B of this <strong>Chapter</strong> <strong>and</strong> removethe cylinder head <strong>and</strong> sump, then remove theoil pick-up pipe <strong>and</strong> strainer.4 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, sothat the crankshaft can be rotated. Check thatthe connecting rods have identificationnumbers - these should be found on theexhaust side of the big-ends. No 1 assemblyis at the timing belt end of the engine. If nomarks can be seen, make your own beforedisturbing any of the components, so that youcan be certain of refitting each piston/connecting rod assembly the right way round,to its correct (original) bore, with the cap alsothe right way round.Zetec engines5 Refer to Part C of this <strong>Chapter</strong> <strong>and</strong> removethe cylinder head <strong>and</strong> sump.6 Undo the screws securing the oil pumppick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, thenunscrew the four nuts, <strong>and</strong> withdraw the oilpump pick-up/strainer pipe <strong>and</strong> oil baffle (seeillustration).7 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, sothat the crankshaft can be rotated. Note thateach piston/connecting rod assembly can beidentified by its cylinder number (countingfrom the timing belt end of the engine) etchedinto the flat-machined surface of both theconnecting rod <strong>and</strong> its cap. The numbers arevisible from the front (exhaust side) of theengine (see illustration). Furthermore, each10.15 Refitting the camshaft thrust platepiston has an arrow stamped into its crown,pointing towards the timing belt end of theengine. If no marks can be seen, make yourown before disturbing any of the components,so that you can be certain of refitting eachpiston/connecting rod assembly the right wayround, to its correct (original) bore, with thecap also the right way round.All engines8 Use your fingernail to feel if a ridge hasformed at the upper limit of ring travel (about aquarter-inch down from the top of eachcylinder). If carbon deposits or cylinder wearhave produced ridges, they must becompletely removed with a special tool.Follow the tool manufacturer’s instructionsprovided. Failure to remove the ridges beforeattempting to remove the piston/connectingrod assemblies may result in piston ringbreakage.9 Slacken each of the big-end bearing capbolts half a turn at a time, until they can beremoved by h<strong>and</strong>. Remove the No 1 cap <strong>and</strong>bearing shell. Don’t drop the shell out of thecap.10 Remove the upper bearing shell, <strong>and</strong> pushthe connecting rod/piston assembly outthrough the top of the engine. Use a woodenhammer h<strong>and</strong>le to push on the connectingrod’s bearing recess. If resistance is felt,double-check that all of the ridge wasremoved from the cylinder.11 Repeat the procedure for the remainingcylinders.2D11.6 Removing the oil baffle to provideaccess to crankshaft <strong>and</strong> bearings11.7 Each connecting rod <strong>and</strong> big-endbearing cap will have a flat-machinedsurface with the cylinder number etched in it1595Ford Fiesta Remake