Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

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1595Ford Fiesta Remake2B•10 CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures12.21 Cylinder head location dowels (A)and gasket identification teeth (B)be fitted on reassembly. Tie the downpipe upto support it.18 Before it is released and removed, thecylinder head must first have cooled down toroom temperature (about 20ºC).19 Unscrew the cylinder head retaining boltsprogressively in the reverse order to thatshown for tightening (see illustration 12.28).The cylinder head bolts must be discardedand new bolts obtained for refitting thecylinder head.20 Remove the cylinder head complete withits manifolds. If necessary, grip the manifoldsand rock it free from the location dowels onthe top face of the cylinder block. Do notattempt to tap it sideways or lever betweenthe head and the block top face.21 Remove the cylinder head gasket. This mustalways be renewed; it is essential that thecorrect type is obtained. Save the old gasket, sothat the identification marks (teeth) can be usedwhen ordering the new one (see illustration).Preparation for refitting22 The mating faces of the cylinder head andcylinder block must be perfectly clean beforerefitting the head. Use a hard plastic or woodscraper to remove all traces of gasket andcarbon; also clean the piston crowns. Takeparticular care during the cleaning operations,as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,make sure that the carbon is not allowed toenter the oil and water passages - this isparticularly important for the lubricationsystem, as carbon could block the oil supplyto the engine’s components. Using adhesivetape and paper, seal the water, oil and boltholes in the cylinder block.To prevent carbon enteringthe gap between the pistonsand bores, smear a littlegrease in the gap. Aftercleaning each piston, use a small brushto remove all traces of grease andcarbon from the gap, then wipe awaythe remainder with a clean rag.23 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinderblock and the cylinder head for nicks, deepscratches and other damage. If slight, they12.27 Fit the cylinder head gasket with the“OBEN/TOP” marking upwards . . .may be removed carefully with a file, but ifexcessive, machining may be the onlyalternative to renewal.24 If warpage of the cylinder head gasketsurface is suspected, use a straight-edge tocheck it for distortion. Refer to Part D of thisChapter if necessary.25 Ensure that new cylinder head bolts areused when refitting and clean out the boltholes in the block. Screwing a bolt into an oilfilledhole can (in extreme cases) cause theblock to fracture, due to the hydraulicpressure.Refitting26 To prevent the possibility of the valvesand pistons coming into contact as the headis fitted, turn the crankshaft over to positionNo 1 piston approximately 20 mm below itsTDC position in the bore.27 Locate the cylinder head gasket on thetop face of the cylinder block, locating it overthe dowels. Ensure that the gasket is fitted thecorrect way up, as indicated by its “OBEN-TOP” marking (see illustration).28 Lower the cylinder head into position,ensuring that it fits over the locating dowels,then insert the new retaining bolts. Handtightenthe bolts initially, then tighten them inthe order shown in the four stages to thespecified torque setting (see illustration).Where possible, use an angular torque settinggauge attachment tool for accurate tighteningof stages three and four. Alternatively, afterthe first two stages, mark the bolt heads witha dab of quick drying paint, so that the paintspots all face the same direction. Now tightenall the bolts in the sequence to the Stage 3setting, by tightening them through thespecified angle. Finally, angle-tighten all thebolts through the Stage 4 angle.29 The camshaft sprocket should bepositioned so that its TDC index mark pointeris in alignment with the TDC index spot markon the front end face of the cylinder head (seeillustration 3.6b).30 Now turn the crankshaft pulley to bring itsTDC notch in alignment with the TDC (0)indicator on the front face of the timing beltcover, taking the shortest route (not viceversa)(see illustration 3.6a).12.28 Cylinder head bolt tighteningsequence31 Refit the timing belt over the camshaftsprocket, and then tension the belt asdescribed in Section 8.32 The remainder of the refitting procedure isa reversal of the removal process. Tighten allfastenings to their specified torque setting(where given). Refer to the appropriate Partsof Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting thefuel and exhaust system components, and toChapter 5B for details on reconnecting theignition system components. Ensure that allcoolant, fuel, vacuum and electricalconnections are securely made.33 On completion, refill the cooling systemand top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and“Weekly Checks”). When the engine isrestarted, check for any sign of fuel, oil and/orcoolant leakages from the various cylinderhead joints.13 Sump -removal and refitting2Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).2 Drain the engine oil as described in Chapter1.3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Removethe auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from insidethe right-hand wheel arch.4 Where fitted, pull free the oxygen sensorlead multi-plug, and disconnect it. If theengine has been recently run, take particularcare against burning when working in the areaof the catalytic converter.5 Undo the retaining nuts, and detach theexhaust downpipe from the manifold. Theflange gasket must be renewed whenreconnecting. Where applicable, also detachthe downpipe at the rear of the catalyticconverter, and release it from the frontmounting.6 On XR2i models, remove the frontsuspension crossmember as described inChapter 10. On all models, undo the nut and

CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•1113.7 Removing the clutch cover plate13.11 Sealing compound applicationpoints prior to refitting the sumpA Crankcase-to-oil pump housingB Crankcase-to-rear oil seal carrierbolt(s) securing the gearchange mechanismstabiliser bar/exhaust forward mountingbracket (where fitted) and ease it out of theway.7 Remove the starter motor as described inChapter 5A, then undo the retaining bolts, andremove the clutch cover plate from the frontface of the bellhousing (see illustration).8 Progressively unscrew the sump retainingbolts and remove them. Support and lowerthe sump pan, taking care not to spill any oilremaining in it as it is removed. If the sump isstuck to the base of the crankcase, prise itfree using a screwdriver, but take care not todamage the sump flange face. If it is reallystuck in position, check first that all of thebolts are removed, then cut around the sumpgasket with a sharp knife to help in freeing thejoint.9 After the sump is removed, further oil willalmost certainly continue to drip down fromwithin the crankcase, some old newspaperspositioned underneath will soak up thespillage whilst the sump is removed.10 Clean the sump of old oil and sludge,using paraffin or a suitable engine cleanersolution. Clean any traces of old gasket andsealer from the mating faces of the sump andthe crankcase.Refitting11 Smear a suitable sealing compound ontothe junctions of the crankcase-to-oil seal14.4 Removing the oil inlet pipecarrier at the rear and the crankcase-to-oilpump housing at the front on each side (seeillustration).12 Insert a new rubber seal in the groove inthe rear oil seal carrier and the oil pump case.As an aid to correct sump alignment whenrefitting it, screw ten M6 studs into thecylinder block, in the positions circled inillustration 13.14.13 Fit a new gasket over the studs. Fit thesump into position, ensuring that the raisedspacers sit in the gasket. Insert the bolts intothe available holes, and finger-tighten themonly at this stage. Now remove the studs andfit the remaining bolts, again finger-tight.14 Tighten the sump bolts in a progressive,numerical sequence to the specified torquewrench setting (see illustration).15 Fit the sump drain plug with a new sealingwasher, and tighten it to the specified torquewrench setting.16 Refit the clutch cover plate, the auxiliarydrivebelt lower cover, the front suspensioncrossmember, the gearchange mechanismstabiliser bar/exhaust forward mountingbracket, and the starter motor with referenceto the relevant Sections and Chapters of thismanual as applicable.17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe asdescribed in Chapter 4E.18 On completion, lower the vehicle, and fillthe engine with oil as described in Chapter 1.Reconnect the battery negative lead.14.8 Prime the oil pump prior to fitting13.14 Sump bolt tightening sequenceA Crankshaft pulley end of engineCircled numbers indicate locations of studsfor correct sump alignment (see text)14 Oil pump -removal and refitting3Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter1).3 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6),the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timingbelt, crankshaft sprocket and thrustwasher(Sections 8 and 9), and the sump (Section 13).4 Unscrew the retaining nut/bolts and removethe oil pick-up pipe (see illustration).5 Unbolt and withdraw the oil pump from thefront face of the engine. Clean the oil pumpfor inspection. Refer to Section 15 for theinspection procedures. The oil seal in the oilpump housing should always be renewed(Section 16).Refitting6 Before refitting the oil pump and theassociated fittings, clean off the respectivemating faces. A new oil pump gasket must beobtained, as well as the seals and gaskets forthe other associated components to berefitted.7 When refitting the oil pump, precautionarymeasures must be taken to avoid thepossibility of damaging the new oil seal as it isengaged over the shoulder and onto its journalon the crankshaft. Extract the Woodruff keyfrom the groove in the crankshaft, then cut athin plastic guide which will furl over andprotrude beyond the shoulder of the sealjournal on the crankshaft (see illustration14.9b). This will allow the seal to rideover the step, and avoid damaging the seal lipas it is pushed into position on the crankshaft.8 If a new oil pump is being fitted or the oldpump is to be re-used after cleaning andinspection, first prime the pump by squirtingclean engine oil into it, and simultaneouslyrotating the drivegear a few times (seeillustration).2B1595Ford Fiesta Remake

CVH <strong>and</strong> PTE engine in-car repair procedures 2B•1113.7 Removing the clutch cover plate13.11 Sealing compound applicationpoints prior to refitting the sumpA Crankcase-to-oil pump housingB Crankcase-to-rear oil seal carrierbolt(s) securing the gearchange mechanismstabiliser bar/exhaust forward mountingbracket (where fitted) <strong>and</strong> ease it out of theway.7 Remove the starter motor as described in<strong>Chapter</strong> 5A, then undo the retaining bolts, <strong>and</strong>remove the clutch cover plate from the frontface of the bellhousing (see illustration).8 Progressively unscrew the sump retainingbolts <strong>and</strong> remove them. Support <strong>and</strong> lowerthe sump pan, taking care not to spill any oilremaining in it as it is removed. If the sump isstuck to the base of the crankcase, prise itfree using a screwdriver, but take care not todamage the sump flange face. If it is reallystuck in position, check first that all of thebolts are removed, then cut around the sumpgasket with a sharp knife to help in freeing thejoint.9 After the sump is removed, further oil willalmost certainly continue to drip down fromwithin the crankcase, some old newspaperspositioned underneath will soak up thespillage whilst the sump is removed.10 Clean the sump of old oil <strong>and</strong> sludge,using paraffin or a suitable engine cleanersolution. Clean any traces of old gasket <strong>and</strong>sealer from the mating faces of the sump <strong>and</strong>the crankcase.Refitting11 Smear a suitable sealing compound ontothe junctions of the crankcase-to-oil seal14.4 Removing the oil inlet pipecarrier at the rear <strong>and</strong> the crankcase-to-oilpump housing at the front on each side (seeillustration).12 Insert a new rubber seal in the groove inthe rear oil seal carrier <strong>and</strong> the oil pump case.As an aid to correct sump alignment whenrefitting it, screw ten M6 studs into thecylinder block, in the positions circled inillustration 13.14.13 Fit a new gasket over the studs. Fit thesump into position, ensuring that the raisedspacers sit in the gasket. Insert the bolts intothe available holes, <strong>and</strong> finger-tighten themonly at this stage. Now remove the studs <strong>and</strong>fit the remaining bolts, again finger-tight.14 Tighten the sump bolts in a progressive,numerical sequence to the specified torquewrench setting (see illustration).15 Fit the sump drain plug with a new sealingwasher, <strong>and</strong> tighten it to the specified torquewrench setting.16 Refit the clutch cover plate, the auxiliarydrivebelt lower cover, the front suspensioncrossmember, the gearchange mechanismstabiliser bar/exhaust forward mountingbracket, <strong>and</strong> the starter motor with referenceto the relevant Sections <strong>and</strong> <strong>Chapter</strong>s of thismanual as applicable.17 Reconnect the exhaust downpipe asdescribed in <strong>Chapter</strong> 4E.18 On completion, lower the vehicle, <strong>and</strong> fillthe engine with oil as described in <strong>Chapter</strong> 1.Reconnect the battery negative lead.14.8 Prime the oil pump prior to fitting13.14 Sump bolt tightening sequenceA Crankshaft pulley end of engineCircled numbers indicate locations of studsfor correct sump alignment (see text)14 Oil pump -removal <strong>and</strong> refitting3Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to <strong>Chapter</strong> 5A, Section 1).2 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see <strong>Chapter</strong>1).3 Remove the crankshaft pulley (Section 6),the timing belt covers (Section 7), the timingbelt, crankshaft sprocket <strong>and</strong> thrustwasher(Sections 8 <strong>and</strong> 9), <strong>and</strong> the sump (Section 13).4 Unscrew the retaining nut/bolts <strong>and</strong> removethe oil pick-up pipe (see illustration).5 Unbolt <strong>and</strong> withdraw the oil pump from thefront face of the engine. Clean the oil pumpfor inspection. Refer to Section 15 for theinspection procedures. The oil seal in the oilpump housing should always be renewed(Section 16).Refitting6 Before refitting the oil pump <strong>and</strong> theassociated fittings, clean off the respectivemating faces. A new oil pump gasket must beobtained, as well as the seals <strong>and</strong> gaskets forthe other associated components to berefitted.7 When refitting the oil pump, precautionarymeasures must be taken to avoid thepossibility of damaging the new oil seal as it isengaged over the shoulder <strong>and</strong> onto its journalon the crankshaft. Extract the Woodruff keyfrom the groove in the crankshaft, then cut athin plastic guide which will furl over <strong>and</strong>protrude beyond the shoulder of the sealjournal on the crankshaft (see illustration14.9b). This will allow the seal to rideover the step, <strong>and</strong> avoid damaging the seal lipas it is pushed into position on the crankshaft.8 If a new oil pump is being fitted or the oldpump is to be re-used after cleaning <strong>and</strong>inspection, first prime the pump by squirtingclean engine oil into it, <strong>and</strong> simultaneouslyrotating the drivegear a few times (seeillustration).2B1595Ford Fiesta Remake

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