Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

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1595Ford Fiesta Remake11•4 Bodywork and fittings15 minutes after spraying on the final coat ofpaint.Allow the new paint at least two weeks toharden, then, using a paintwork renovator, ora very fine cutting paste, blend the edges ofthe paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,apply wax polish.Plastic componentsWith the use of more and more plastic bodycomponents by the vehicle manufacturers (egbumpers. spoilers, and in some cases majorbody panels), rectification of more seriousdamage to such items has become a matterof either entrusting repair work to a specialistin this field, or renewing completecomponents. Repair of such damage by theDIY owner is not really feasible, owing to thecost of the equipment and materials requiredfor effecting such repairs. The basic techniqueinvolves making a groove along the line of thecrack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in apower drill. The damaged part is then weldedback together, using a hot-air gun to heat upand fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.Any excess plastic is then removed, and thearea rubbed down to a smooth finish. It isimportant that a filler rod of the correct plasticis used, as body components can be made ofa variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,ABS, polypropylene).Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIYowner using a two-part epoxy filler repairmaterial. Once mixed in equal proportions,this is used in similar fashion to the bodyworkfiller used on metal panels. The filler is usuallycured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready forsanding and painting.If the owner is renewing a completecomponent himself, or if he has repaired itwith epoxy filler, he will be left with theproblem of finding a suitable paint for finishingwhich is compatible with the type of plasticused. At one time, the use of a universal paintwas not possible, owing to the complex rangeof plastics encountered in body componentapplications. Standard paints, generallyspeaking, will not bond to plastic or rubbersatisfactorily. However, it is now possible toobtain a plastic body parts finishing kit whichconsists of a pre-primer treatment, a primerand coloured top coat. Full instructions arenormally supplied with a kit, but basically, themethod of use is to first apply the pre-primerto the component concerned, and allow it todry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer isapplied, and left to dry for about an hourbefore finally applying the special-colouredtop coat. The result is a correctly-colouredcomponent, where the paint will flex with theplastic or rubber, a property that standardpaint does not normally possess.5 Major body damage -repair5Where serious damage has occurred, orlarge areas need renewal due to neglect, itmeans that complete new panels will needwelding-in, and this is best left toprofessionals. If the damage is due to impact,it will also be necessary to check completelythe alignment of the bodyshell, and this canonly be carried out accurately by a Forddealer, using special jigs. If the body is leftmisaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as thecar will not handle properly; secondly, unevenstresses will be imposed on the steering,suspension and possibly transmission,causing abnormal wear, or complete failure,particularly to such items as the tyres.6 Bonnet - removal,refitting and adjustment1Removal1 Raise the bonnet and support it on its stay.2 Using a felt tip marker pen or similar, markaround the hinge positions on the bonnet.3 Cut the windscreen washer jet hose in theengine compartment, or release it from its onewayvalve (if already fitted), then release the hosefrom the bonnet hinge clip (see illustration).4 With the aid of an assistant, support thebonnet assembly and remove the four boltssecuring it to its hinges. Remove the bonnetassembly, taking care to disengage the staybefore the bonnet is moved.Refitting and adjustment5 To refit, first align the marks made on thebonnet with the hinges, then refit and fullytighten the four securing bolts. Support thebonnet on its stay.6 Refit the windscreen washer jet hose intothe bonnet hinge clip, and join it up using aone-way (non-return) valve, having ensuredcorrect routing. Ensure that the valve isinstalled the correct way round, allowing flowto the jets but resisting return flow back to thereservoir.7 Close the bonnet and ensure that there isan equal gap at each side, between thebonnet and the wings, and that it sits flush inrelation to its surrounding panels.8 The bonnet should close smoothly andpositively with no excessive pressure beingapplied. If this is not the case, adjustment willbe necessary.9 To adjust the bonnet closure, adjustablebump stops are fitted to the closure panel(see illustration). These may be raised orlowered by screwing in or out, as necessary.The bonnet latch may also be adjusted, asrequired, and this is covered in Section 8 ofthis Chapter.7 Bonnet release mechanism -removal and refitting1Removal1 Remove the screws securing the lowersteering column shroud to its location and,where applicable, detach the choke warninglight switch/pull control assembly, from it.2 Operate the bonnet release lever then raiseand support the bonnet. If the release cable isbroken, it will be necessary to detach thelatch from its body location by undoing thethree latch retaining screws through the gapbetween the leading edge of the bonnet andthe radiator grille slot.3 With the bonnet open, remove the threescrews securing the latch to the body.Disengage the release cable from the latch(see illustrations).6.3 Windscreen washer jet hose in enginecompartmentA Hose located to bonnet hinge clipB Position of cut6.9 Altering the setting of a bonnet closurebump stop7.3a Removing the bonnet release latch
Bodywork and fittings 11•57.3b Bonnet release cable attachments atthe latchA Outer cable attachmentB Inner cable attachment4 Pull the latch end of the cable into theengine compartment, noting cable routing andclips fitted. Remove the cable from its clips.5 Detach the cable from its release lever onthe steering column, by aligning the cablecore with the slot on the release lever andwithdrawing the end fixing. Detach the cablefrom its outer core abutment on the steeringcolumn lock housing.6 Unclip the cable from its pedal boxlocation, then detach the bulkhead grommetand pass the cable through into the enginecompartment. Withdraw the cable from thevehicle.7 The release lever on the steering columnmay be removed, if required, by unhookingthe spring from its retaining arms, thendisengaging its retaining arms from thesteering column lock housing.Refitting8 Refit the release lever, if removed, byreversing the method of removal.9 To install the release cable, first pass thelatch end of the cable down the right-handside of the steering column, through itsbulkhead location, and out into the enginecompartment.10 Fit the cable to its clip on the pedal boxassembly, then reconnect the cable to therelease lever and the steering column lockhousing abutment by reversing the method ofremoval.11 Where applicable, refit the choke warninglight switch/pull control assembly, to the lower10.1 Removing a roof drip rail mouldingsteering column shroud, by reversing themethod of removal. Refit the shroud.12 Seat the release cable grommet into thebulkhead.13 Route and secure the release cable in theengine compartment.14 Reconnect the release cable to the latch,then refit the latch to the body, setting thelatch at its maximum height position, andtightening only the bottom retaining screw.15 Adjust the latch for flush bonnet closure inaccordance with Section 8.8 Bonnet latch - adjustment11 To adjust the bonnet latch, remove the twoupper latch retaining screws, then with thelatch raised to its maximum height positionand secured with the lower retaining screw,close the bonnet.2 Slacken the lower latch retaining screw,through the gap between the leading edge ofthe bonnet and the radiator grille slot, thenset the bonnet so it sits flush with itssurrounding panels - it may be necessary toadjust the height of the bump stops (seeSection 6) if they have been moved in anyway, or if fitting a new bonnet.3 With the desired bonnet closure obtained,fully tighten the lower latch retaining screw,then open the bonnet and refit the two upperlatch retaining screws, tightening to thespecified torque.9 Body adhesive emblems -renewal 11 Using a length of strong thin diameter cord(fishing line is ideal), break the adhesive bondbetween the emblem and the panel.2 Thoroughly clean all traces of the oldadhesive from the emblem location, usingmethylated spirit, taking all normal safetyprecautions. Allow the emblem location todry.3 Gently heat the new emblem until it is warmto the touch.10.7 Removing a door side mouldingA Masking tape C Nylon cord (fishing line)B Moulding4 Peel the protective backing paper from theemblem then, taking care not to touch theadhesive, position the emblem on the panel.Maintain hand pressure evenly for at leastthirty seconds to ensure a good bond.10 Body trim mouldings -removal and refitting1Roof drip rail moulding (allmodels except Courier)Removal1 Remove the drip rail moulding by gentlyraising the forward end from its retainingflange, taking care not to bend or kink it, thencarefully pull it off the retaining flange (seeillustration).Refitting2 To refit the drip rail moulding, first align therear of the moulding to the roof panel edge bythe tailgate, then, using the flat palm of thehand, gently tap the moulding down.3 If fitting the Ford roof rack, the drip railmouldings on both sides must be removedand replaced by a ten-piece moulding kit,available from Ford dealerships.Roof drip rail moulding (Couriermodels)Removal4 These are released by lifting and grippingthe moulding’s inboard edge, then byrotating the whole length of the mouldingtowards the outside of the vehicle to release itfrom its outboard lip.Refitting5 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure; ensure that the moulding’soutboard edge is seated securely in its lipbefore pressing the inboard edge firmly intoplace.Door side mouldingRemoval6 Apply masking tape, as an alignment guideand to protect the paintwork, just above andjust below the moulding to be renewed.7 Using a length of strong thin diameter cord(fishing line is ideal), break the bond betweenthe moulding and the panel, and remove themoulding (see illustration).Refitting8 Thoroughly clean the moulding location ofany trace of old adhesive, using methylatedspirit, taking all normal safety precautions.Allow the moulding location to dry.9 Continue to proceed using a similartechnique to that described in Section 9taking care to align the moulding correctly.10 To improve the adhesive bond, applypressure over the whole length of themoulding using a roller.11 Remove the masking tape carefully.111595Ford Fiesta Remake
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1•1Chapter 1Routine maintenance a
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CVH and PTE engine in-car repair pr
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CVH and PTE engine in-car repair pr
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2C•1Chapter 2 Part C:Zetec engine
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Zetec engine in-car repair procedur
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2D•1Chapter 2 Part D:Engine remov
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Engine removal and overhaul procedu
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3•1Chapter 3Cooling, heating and
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Cooling, heating and ventilation sy
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4A•1Chapter 4 Part A:Fuel system
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Fuel system - carburettor engines 4
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4B•1Chapter 4 Part B:Fuel system
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Fuel system - central fuel injectio
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4C•1Chapter 4 Part C:Fuel system
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Fuel system - electronic fuel injec
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4D•1Chapter 4 Part D: Fuel system
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Fuel system - sequential electronic
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4E•1Chapter 4 Part E:Exhaust and
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Exhaust and emission control system
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5A•1Chapter 5 Part A:Starting and
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Starting and charging systems 5A•
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Page 169 and 170: Ignition system 5B•3flux can pass
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Page 175 and 176: 9•1Chapter 9Braking systemContent
Page 177 and 178: Braking system 9•34 Withdraw the
Page 179 and 180: Braking system 9•56.3 Depress and
Page 181 and 182: Braking system 9•78.3 Compress th
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Page 185 and 186: Braking system 9•11Bleeding - usi
Page 187 and 188: Braking system 9•1318.4 Handbrake
Page 189 and 190: Braking system 9•1524.6 Belt-brea
Page 191 and 192: Braking system 9•17cylinder reser
Page 193 and 194: 10•1Chapter 10Suspension and stee
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Wiring diagrams 12•33Diagram 4: I
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REF•2 Conversion factorsWeightsKe
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REF•4 General repair proceduresWh
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REF•6 Conversion FactorsLength (d
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REF•8 Tools and working facilitie
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REF•10 MOT test checksThis is a g
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REF•12 MOT test checksExhaust sys
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REF•14 Fault findingEngine Engine
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REF•16 Fault findingEngine (conti
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REF•18 Fault findingAutomatic tra
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REF•20 Fault findingElectrical sy
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REF•22 Glossary of technical term
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REF•28 IndexFault finding - clutc
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Preserving Our Motoring HeritageJoh
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