Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing
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Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

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11.07.2015 Views

1595Ford Fiesta Remake1•20 Every 20 000 miles or two yearsif nothing worse. If the outer electrode is notexactly over the centre electrode, bend it gentlyto align them. Special spark plug gap adjustingtools are available from motor accessory shops,or from certain spark plug manufacturers.14 Before fitting the spark plugs, check thatthe threaded connector sleeves at the top ofthe plugs are tight, and that the plug exteriorsurfaces and threads are clean. Brownstaining on the porcelain, immediately abovethe metal body, is quite normal, and does notnecessarily indicate a “leak” between thebody and insulator.15 Apply a smear of copper-based grease oranti-seize compound to the threads of eachplug, and screw them in by hand wherepossible. Take extra care to enter the plugthreads correctly, as the cylinder head is ofaluminium alloy.It’s often difficult to insert spark plugsinto their holes without cross-threadingthem. To avoid this possibility, fit ashort piece of rubber hose over the endof the spark plug. The flexible hoseacts as a universal joint, to help alignthe plug with the plug hole. Should theplug begin to cross-thread, the hosewill slip on the spark plug, preventingthread damage.16 When each spark plug is started correctlyon its threads, screw it down until it just seatslightly, then tighten it to the specified torquewrench setting. If a torque wrench is notavailable - and this is one case where the use ofa torque wrench is strongly recommended -tighten each spark plug through no more than1/4 of a turn (CVH and PTE engines) or 1/16 of aturn (HCS and Zetec engines) after it seats. HCSand Zetec engines are fitted with taper-seatspark plugs, identifiable by not having a sealingwasher, and these in particular should NEVERbe overtightened - their tapered seats meanthey are almost impossible to remove if abused.17 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads intheir correct order, using a twisting motion onthe boot until it is firmly seated on the end ofthe spark plug and on the cylinder head cover.Spark plug (HT) lead, distributorcap and rotor arm check18 The spark plug (HT) leads should bechecked whenever the plugs themselves arerenewed. Start by making a visual check ofthe leads while the engine is running. In adarkened garage (make sure there isventilation) start the engine and observe eachlead. Be careful not to come into contact withany moving engine parts. If there is a break inthe lead, you will see arcing or a small sparkat the damaged area.19 The spark plug (HT) leads should beinspected one at a time, to prevent mixing upthe firing order, which is essential for properengine operation. Each original lead shouldbe numbered to identify its cylinder. If thenumber is illegible, a piece of tape can bemarked with the correct number, andwrapped around the lead (the leads should benumbered 1 to 4, with No 1 lead nearest thetiming belt end of the engine). The lead canthen be disconnected.20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, whichwill look like a white crusty powder. Clean thisoff as much as possible; if it is excessive, or ifcleaning leaves the metal connector too badlyeroded to be fit for further use, the lead mustbe renewed. Push the lead and boot backonto the end of the spark plug. The bootshould fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if itdoesn’t, remove the lead and use plierscarefully to crimp the metal connector insidethe boot until the fit is snug.21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire lengthof the lead to remove built-up dirt and grease.Once the lead is clean, check for burns,cracks and other damage. Do not bend thelead sharply, because the conductor mightbreak.22 Disconnect the lead from the ignition coilby pressing together the plastic retainingcatches (where fitted) and pulling the endfitting off the coil terminal. Check for corrosionand for a tight fit. If a meter with the correctmeasuring range is available, measure theresistance of the disconnected lead from itscoil connector to its spark plug connector. Ifthe resistance recorded for any of the leadsexceeds the value specified, all the leadsshould be renewed as a set. Refit the lead tothe coil, noting that each coil terminal ismarked with its respective cylinder number,so that there is no risk of mixing up the leadsand upsetting the firing order.23 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT)leads, ensuring that each is securely fastenedat the distributor cap or ignition coil and sparkplug when the check is complete. If any signof arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns,cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain newspark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set.If new spark plug leads are to be fitted,remove and refit them one at a time, to avoidmix-ups in the firing order.If new spark plug leads are tobe fitted, remove the leadsone at a time and fit eachnew lead in exactly the sameposition as the old one.24 On models with distributor ignitionsystems, refer to Chapter 5B and remove thedistributor cap then thoroughly clean it insideand out with a dry lint-free rag.25 Examine the HT lead segments inside thecap. If they appear badly burned or pittedrenew the cap. Also check the carbon brushin the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is freeto move and stands proud of its holder. Makesure that there are no sign of cracks or black“tracking” lines running down the inside of thecap, which will also mean renewal if evident.26 Inspect the rotor arm checking it forsecurity and also for signs of deterioration asdescribed above.27 Refit the cap as described in Chapter 5Bon completion.22 Idle speed control valvecleaning and maintenance1Note: The idle speed control valve may bemounted on the air cleaner, on the enginecompartment bulkhead, or on the side of the inletmanifold according to valve make and year ofmanufacture. Valves manufactured by Weber aremounted on the air cleaner and only these valvesrequire the periodic maintenance describedbelow. Bulkhead and inlet manifold mountedvalves are manufactured by Hitachi and aremaintenance free. Refer to the warning note inSection 1 of Chapter 4C before proceeding.1 Remove the valve as described in Chapter4C, Section 14.2 Immerse the valve head in a suitablecontainer filled with clean petrol, and allow itto soak for approximately three minutes.3 Clean the valve bore, slots and piston withpetrol, using a suitable lint-free cloth, thengently move the piston up and down in itsbore using a small screwdriver (seeillustration). Ensure that no cloth particlesenter the bore, and do not use the slots tomove the piston.4 Rinse the valve again with clean petrol, thendry it using an air line (or other source ofcompressed air).Warning: Wear eye protectionwhen using compressed air!5 Clean the mating faces of the valve and theair filter housing then refit as described inChapter 4C, Section 14.22.3 Gently move the idle speed controlvalve piston up and down in its bore usinga small screwdriver (1.6 litre EFi engine)

Every 30 000 miles or three years 1•21Every 30 000 miles (48 000 km) or three years, whichevercomes first23 Coolant renewal1Note: If the antifreeze used is Ford’s own, thecoolant need not be renewed for the life of thevehicle. If the vehicle’s history is unknown, ifantifreeze of lesser quality is known to be inthe system, or simply if you prefer to followconventional servicing intervals, the coolantshould be changed periodically (typically,every 3 years) as described here. Refer also to“Antifreeze - notes on renewal” in thisSection.Warning: Do not allowantifreeze to come in contactwith your skin or paintedsurfaces of the vehicle. Flushcontaminated areas immediately withplenty of water. Don’t store new coolant,or leave old coolant lying around, whereit’s accessible to children or pets - they’reattracted by its sweet smell. Ingestion ofeven a small amount of coolant can befatal! Wipe up garage-floor and drip-panspills immediately. Keep antifreezecontainers covered, and repair coolingsystem leaks as soon as they’re noticed.Warning: Never remove the expansiontank filler cap when the engine is running,or has just been switched off, as thecooling system will be hot, and theconsequent escaping steam and scaldingcoolant could cause serious injury.Coolant drainingWarning: Wait until the engine iscold before starting thisprocedure.1 To drain the system, first remove theexpansion tank filler cap (see “WeeklyChecks”).2 If additional working clearance is required,raise the front of the vehicle and support it23.3 Drain plug location at the base of theradiator - use a coin to unscrew the plugsecurely on axle stands (see “Jacking andVehicle Support”).3 Place a large drain tray beneath theradiator, and unscrew the radiator drain plug -you can use a small coin to do this, as theplug’s slotted for this purpose (seeillustration). Direct as much of the escapingcoolant as possible into the tray.System flushing4 With time, the cooling system may graduallylose its efficiency, as the radiator corebecomes choked with rust, scale depositsfrom the water, and other sediment (refer alsoto “Antifreeze - notes on renewal” later in thisSection). To minimise this, as well as usingonly good-quality antifreeze and clean softwater, the system should be flushed as followswhenever any part of it is disturbed, and/orwhen the coolant is renewed.5 With the coolant drained, refit the drainplug, and refill the system with fresh water.Refit the expansion tank filler cap, start theengine and warm it up to normal operatingtemperature, then stop it and (after allowing itto cool down completely) drain the systemagain. Repeat as necessary until only cleanwater can be seen to emerge, then refill finallywith the specified coolant mixture asdescribed below.6 If only clean, soft water and good-qualityantifreeze (even if not to Ford’s specification)has been used, and the coolant has beenrenewed at the suggested intervals, the aboveprocedure will be sufficient to keep thesystem clean for a considerable length oftime. If, however, the system has beenneglected, a more thorough operation will berequired, as follows.7 First drain the coolant, then disconnect theradiator top and bottom hoses. Insert agarden hose into the top hose, and allowwater to circulate through the radiator until itruns clean from the bottom outlet.8 To flush the engine, insert the garden hoseinto the thermostat water outlet, and allowwater to circulate until it runs clear from thebottom hose. If, after a reasonable period, thewater still does not run clear, the radiatorshould be flushed with a good proprietarycleaning agent.9 In severe cases of contamination, reverseflushingof the radiator may be necessary. Todo this, remove the radiator (Chapter 3), invertit, and insert the garden hose into the bottomoutlet. Continue flushing until clear water runsfrom the top hose outlet. A similar procedurecan be used to flush the heater matrix.10 The use of chemical cleaners should benecessary only as a last resort. Normally,regular renewal of the coolant will preventexcessive contamination of the system.Coolant filling11 With the cooling system drained andflushed, ensure that all disturbed hose unionsare correctly secured, and that the radiatordrain plug is securely tightened. If it wasraised, lower the vehicle to the ground.12 Prepare a sufficient quantity of thespecified coolant mixture (see below); allowfor a surplus, so as to have a reserve supplyfor topping-up.13 Slowly fill the system through theexpansion tank; since the tank is the highestpoint in the system, all the air in the systemshould be displaced into the tank by the risingliquid. Slow pouring reduces the possibility ofair being trapped and forming airlocks.14 Continue filling until the coolant levelreaches the expansion tank “MAX” level line,then cover the filler opening to preventcoolant splashing out.15 Start the engine and run it at idle speed,until it has warmed-up to normal operatingtemperature and the radiator cooling fan hascut in; watch the temperature gauge to checkfor signs of overheating. If the level in theexpansion tank drops significantly, top-up tothe “MAX” level line, to minimise the amountof air circulating in the system.16 Stop the engine, allow it to cool downcompletely (overnight, if possible), thenuncover the expansion tank filler opening andtop-up the tank to the “MAX” level line. Refitthe filler cap, tightening it securely, and washoff any spilt coolant from the enginecompartment and bodywork.17 After refilling, always check carefully allcomponents of the system (but especially anyunions disturbed during draining and flushing)for signs of coolant leaks. Fresh antifreeze hasa searching action, which will rapidly exposeany weak points in the system.18 If, after draining and refilling the system,symptoms of overheating are found which didnot occur previously, then the fault is almostcertainly due to trapped air at some point inthe system, causing an airlock and restrictingthe flow of coolant; usually, the air is trappedbecause the system was refilled too quickly.In some cases, airlocks can be released bytapping or squeezing the various hoses. If theproblem persists, stop the engine and allow itto cool down completely, before unscrewingthe expansion tank filler cap or disconnectinghoses to bleed out the trapped air.Antifreeze mixture19 If the antifreeze used is not to Ford’sspecification, it should always be renewed atthe suggested intervals (typically, every 2 or3 years). This is necessary not only to maintainthe antifreeze properties, but also to prevent11595Ford Fiesta Remake

1595Ford Fiesta Remake1•20 Every 20 000 miles or two yearsif nothing worse. If the outer electrode is notexactly over the centre electrode, bend it gentlyto align them. Special spark plug gap adjustingtools are available from motor accessory shops,or from certain spark plug manufacturers.14 Before fitting the spark plugs, check thatthe threaded connector sleeves at the top ofthe plugs are tight, <strong>and</strong> that the plug exteriorsurfaces <strong>and</strong> threads are clean. Brownstaining on the porcelain, immediately abovethe metal body, is quite normal, <strong>and</strong> does notnecessarily indicate a “leak” between thebody <strong>and</strong> insulator.15 Apply a smear of copper-based grease oranti-seize compound to the threads of eachplug, <strong>and</strong> screw them in by h<strong>and</strong> wherepossible. Take extra care to enter the plugthreads correctly, as the cylinder head is ofaluminium alloy.It’s often difficult to insert spark plugsinto their holes without cross-threadingthem. To avoid this possibility, fit ashort piece of rubber hose over the endof the spark plug. The flexible hoseacts as a universal joint, to help alignthe plug with the plug hole. Should theplug begin to cross-thread, the hosewill slip on the spark plug, preventingthread damage.16 When each spark plug is started correctlyon its threads, screw it down until it just seatslightly, then tighten it to the specified torquewrench setting. If a torque wrench is notavailable - <strong>and</strong> this is one case where the use ofa torque wrench is strongly recommended -tighten each spark plug through no more than1/4 of a turn (CVH <strong>and</strong> PTE engines) or 1/16 of aturn (HCS <strong>and</strong> Zetec engines) after it seats. HCS<strong>and</strong> Zetec engines are fitted with taper-seatspark plugs, identifiable by not having a sealingwasher, <strong>and</strong> these in particular should NEVERbe overtightened - their tapered seats meanthey are almost impossible to remove if abused.17 Reconnect the spark plug (HT) leads intheir correct order, using a twisting motion onthe boot until it is firmly seated on the end ofthe spark plug <strong>and</strong> on the cylinder head cover.Spark plug (HT) lead, distributorcap <strong>and</strong> rotor arm check18 The spark plug (HT) leads should bechecked whenever the plugs themselves arerenewed. Start by making a visual check ofthe leads while the engine is running. In adarkened garage (make sure there isventilation) start the engine <strong>and</strong> observe eachlead. Be careful not to come into contact withany moving engine parts. If there is a break inthe lead, you will see arcing or a small sparkat the damaged area.19 The spark plug (HT) leads should beinspected one at a time, to prevent mixing upthe firing order, which is essential for properengine operation. Each original lead shouldbe numbered to identify its cylinder. If thenumber is illegible, a piece of tape can bemarked with the correct number, <strong>and</strong>wrapped around the lead (the leads should benumbered 1 to 4, with No 1 lead nearest thetiming belt end of the engine). The lead canthen be disconnected.20 Check inside the boot for corrosion, whichwill look like a white crusty powder. Clean thisoff as much as possible; if it is excessive, or ifcleaning leaves the metal connector too badlyeroded to be fit for further use, the lead mustbe renewed. Push the lead <strong>and</strong> boot backonto the end of the spark plug. The bootshould fit tightly onto the end of the plug - if itdoesn’t, remove the lead <strong>and</strong> use plierscarefully to crimp the metal connector insidethe boot until the fit is snug.21 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire lengthof the lead to remove built-up dirt <strong>and</strong> grease.Once the lead is clean, check for burns,cracks <strong>and</strong> other damage. Do not bend thelead sharply, because the conductor mightbreak.22 Disconnect the lead from the ignition coilby pressing together the plastic retainingcatches (where fitted) <strong>and</strong> pulling the endfitting off the coil terminal. Check for corrosion<strong>and</strong> for a tight fit. If a meter with the correctmeasuring range is available, measure theresistance of the disconnected lead from itscoil connector to its spark plug connector. Ifthe resistance recorded for any of the leadsexceeds the value specified, all the leadsshould be renewed as a set. Refit the lead tothe coil, noting that each coil terminal ismarked with its respective cylinder number,so that there is no risk of mixing up the leads<strong>and</strong> upsetting the firing order.23 Inspect the remaining spark plug (HT)leads, ensuring that each is securely fastenedat the distributor cap or ignition coil <strong>and</strong> sparkplug when the check is complete. If any signof arcing, severe connector corrosion, burns,cracks or other damage is noticed, obtain newspark plug (HT) leads, renewing them as a set.If new spark plug leads are to be fitted,remove <strong>and</strong> refit them one at a time, to avoidmix-ups in the firing order.If new spark plug leads are tobe fitted, remove the leadsone at a time <strong>and</strong> fit eachnew lead in exactly the sameposition as the old one.24 On models with distributor ignitionsystems, refer to <strong>Chapter</strong> 5B <strong>and</strong> remove thedistributor cap then thoroughly clean it inside<strong>and</strong> out with a dry lint-free rag.25 Examine the HT lead segments inside thecap. If they appear badly burned or pittedrenew the cap. Also check the carbon brushin the centre of the cap, ensuring that it is freeto move <strong>and</strong> st<strong>and</strong>s proud of its holder. Makesure that there are no sign of cracks or black“tracking” lines running down the inside of thecap, which will also mean renewal if evident.26 Inspect the rotor arm checking it forsecurity <strong>and</strong> also for signs of deterioration asdescribed above.27 Refit the cap as described in <strong>Chapter</strong> 5Bon completion.22 Idle speed control valvecleaning <strong>and</strong> <strong>maintenance</strong>1Note: The idle speed control valve may bemounted on the air cleaner, on the enginecompartment bulkhead, or on the side of the inletmanifold according to valve make <strong>and</strong> year ofmanufacture. Valves manufactured by Weber aremounted on the air cleaner <strong>and</strong> only these valvesrequire the periodic <strong>maintenance</strong> describedbelow. Bulkhead <strong>and</strong> inlet manifold mountedvalves are manufactured by Hitachi <strong>and</strong> are<strong>maintenance</strong> free. Refer to the warning note inSection 1 of <strong>Chapter</strong> 4C before proceeding.1 Remove the valve as described in <strong>Chapter</strong>4C, Section 14.2 Immerse the valve head in a suitablecontainer filled with clean petrol, <strong>and</strong> allow itto soak for approximately three minutes.3 Clean the valve bore, slots <strong>and</strong> piston withpetrol, using a suitable lint-free cloth, thengently move the piston up <strong>and</strong> down in itsbore using a small screwdriver (seeillustration). Ensure that no cloth particlesenter the bore, <strong>and</strong> do not use the slots tomove the piston.4 Rinse the valve again with clean petrol, thendry it using an air line (or other source ofcompressed air).Warning: Wear eye protectionwhen using compressed air!5 Clean the mating faces of the valve <strong>and</strong> theair filter housing then refit as described in<strong>Chapter</strong> 4C, Section 14.22.3 Gently move the idle speed controlvalve piston up <strong>and</strong> down in its bore usinga small screwdriver (1.6 litre EFi engine)

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