Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

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1595Ford Fiesta Remake1•16 Every 10 000 miles or 12 months10.2b Check the condition of the lowerarm balljoint dust cover (arrowed)lubricant, together with dirt and water entry,resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljointsor steering gear.3 Check the power-assisted steering fluidhoses (where fitted) for chafing ordeterioration, and the pipe and hose unionsfor fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluidleakage under pressure from the steering gearrubber gaiters, which would indicate failedfluid seals within the steering gear.4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o’clock and6 o’clock positions, and try to rock it. Veryslight free play may be felt, but if themovement is appreciable, further investigationis necessary to determine the source.Continue rocking the wheel while an assistantdepresses the footbrake. If the movement isnow eliminated or significantly reduced, it islikely that the hub bearings are at fault. If thefree play is still evident with the footbrakedepressed, then there is wear in thesuspension joints or mountings.5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o’clock and 3o’clock positions, and try to rock it as before.Any movement felt now may again be causedby wear in the hub bearings or the steeringtrack rod balljoints. If the outer track rod endballjoint is worn, the visual movement will beobvious. If the inner joint is suspect, it can befelt by placing a hand over the rack-andpinionrubber gaiter, and gripping the trackrod. If the wheel is now rocked, movement willbe felt at the inner joint if wear has takenplace.6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, checkfor wear in the suspension mounting bushesby levering between the relevant suspensioncomponent and its attachment point. Somemovement is to be expected, as themountings are made of rubber, but excessivewear should be obvious. Also check thecondition of any visible rubber bushes,looking for splits, cracks or contamination ofthe rubber.7 With the vehicle standing on its wheels,have an assistant turn the steering wheelback-and-forth, about an eighth of a turn eachway. There should be very little, if any, lostmovement between the steering wheel androadwheels. If this is not the case, closelyobserve the joints and mountings previously10.2c Check the condition of the steeringrack gaitersdescribed, but in addition, check the steeringcolumn universal joints for wear, and alsocheck the rack-and-pinion steering gear itself.Rear suspension check8 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”). Removethe rear roadwheels.9 Check the rear hub bearings for wear, usingthe method described for the front hubbearings (paragraph 4).10 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar,check for wear in the suspension mountingbushes by levering between the relevantsuspension component and its attachmentpoint. Some movement is to be expected, asthe mountings are made of rubber, butexcessive wear should be obvious. Check thecondition of the shock absorbers and theirbushes/mountings. On Van models, check theleaves of the leaf springs for signs of cracking,distortion, or other damage.Roadwheel check and balancing11 Periodically remove the roadwheels, andclean any dirt or mud from the inside andoutside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims forsigns of rusting, corrosion or other damage.Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by“kerbing” whilst parking, and similarly, steelwheels may become dented or buckled.Renewal of the wheel is very often the onlycourse of remedial action possible.12 The balance of each wheel and tyreassembly should be maintained, not only toavoid excessive tyre wear, but also to avoidwear in the steering and suspensioncomponents. Wheel imbalance is normallysignified by vibration through the vehicle’sbodyshell, although in many cases it isparticularly noticeable through the steeringwheel. Conversely, it should be noted thatwear or damage in suspension or steeringcomponents may cause excessive tyre wear.Out-of-round or out-of-true tyres, damagedwheels and wheel bearing wear/maladjustment also fall into this category.Balancing will not usually cure vibrationcaused by such wear.13 Wheel balancing may be carried out withthe wheel either on or off the vehicle. If11.2 Check the driveshaft gaiters by handfor cracks and/or leaking greasebalanced on the vehicle, ensure that thewheel-to-hub relationship is marked in someway prior to subsequent wheel removal, sothat it may be refitted in its original position.11 Driveshaft rubber gaiter andCV joint check11 The driveshaft rubber gaiters are veryimportant, because they prevent dirt, waterand foreign material from entering anddamaging the constant velocity (CV) joints.External contamination can cause the gaitermaterial to deteriorate prematurely, so it’s agood idea to wash the gaiters with soap andwater occasionally.2 With the vehicle raised and securelysupported on axle stands, turn the steeringonto full-lock, then slowly rotate each frontwheel in turn. Inspect the condition of theouter constant velocity (CV) joint rubbergaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out thefolds. Check for signs of cracking, splits, ordeterioration of the rubber, which may allowthe escape of grease, and lead to the ingressof water and grit into the joint (seeillustration). Also check the security andcondition of the retaining clips. Repeat thesechecks on the inner CV joints. If any damageor deterioration is found, the gaiters should berenewed as described in Chapter 8.3 At the same time, check the generalcondition of the outer CV joints themselves,by first holding the driveshaft and attemptingto rotate the wheels. Any appreciablemovement in the CV joint indicates wear in thejoint, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loosedriveshaft retaining nut. Repeat this check onthe inner joints, by holding the inner joint yokeand attempting to rotate the driveshaft.12 Exhaust system check11 With the engine cold (at least three hoursafter the vehicle has been driven), check thecomplete exhaust system, from its starting
Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•17point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe.Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, whereunrestricted access is available; if a hoist isnot available, raise and support the vehicle onaxle stands.2 Check the pipes and connections forevidence of leaks, severe corrosion, ordamage. Make sure that all brackets andrubber mountings are in good condition, andtight; if any of the mountings are to berenewed, ensure that the replacements are ofthe correct type (see illustration). Leakage atany of the joints or in other parts of the systemwill usually show up as a black sooty stain inthe vicinity of the leak. Note: Exhaust sealantsshould not be used on any part of the exhaustsystem upstream of the catalytic converter -even if the sealant does not contain additivesharmful to the converter, pieces of it maybreak off and foul the element, causing localoverheating.3 At the same time, inspect the underside ofthe body for holes, corrosion, open seams,etc, which may allow exhaust gases to enterthe passenger compartment. Seal all bodyopenings with silicone or body putty.4 Rattles and other noises can often betraced to the exhaust system, especially therubber mountings. Try to move the system,silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If anycomponents can touch the body orsuspension parts, secure the exhaust systemwith new mountings.5 Check the running condition of the engineby inspecting inside the end of the tailpipe;the exhaust deposits here are an indicationof the engine’s state of tune. The inside of thetailpipe should be dry, and should vary incolour from dark grey to light grey/brown; if itis black and sooty, or coated with whitedeposits, the engine is in need of a thoroughfuel system inspection.13 Underbody and fuel/brakeline check11 With the vehicle raised and supported onaxle stands or over an inspection pit,thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheelarches for signs of damage and corrosion. Inparticular, examine the bottom of the sidesills, and any concealed areas where mud cancollect. Where corrosion and rust is evident,press and tap firmly on the panel with ascrewdriver, and check for any seriouscorrosion which would necessitate repairs. Ifthe panel is not seriously corroded, cleanaway the rust, and apply a new coating ofunderseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for moredetails of body repairs.2 At the same time, inspect the PVC-coatedlower body panels for stone damage andgeneral condition.3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on theunderbody for damage, rust, corrosion andleakage. Also make sure that they are12.2 Ensure that the exhaust systemrubber mountings replacements are of thecorrect type - their colour is a good guide.Those nearest to the catalytic converterare more heat-resistant than the otherscorrectly supported in their clips. Whereapplicable, check the PVC coating on thelines for damage.14 Brake check2Note: For detailed photographs of the brakesystem, refer to Chapter 9.1 The work described in this Section shouldbe carried out at the specified intervals, orwhenever a defect is suspected in the brakingsystem. Any of the following symptoms couldindicate a potential brake system defect:a) The vehicle pulls to one side when thebrake pedal is depressed.b) The brakes make scraping or draggingnoises when applied.c) Brake pedal travel is excessive.d) The brake fluid requires repeated toppingup.2 A thorough inspection should be made toconfirm the thickness of the linings, asfollows.Front brakes3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up thefront of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).4 For better access to the brake calipers,remove the wheels.5 Look through the inspection window in thecaliper, and check that the thickness of thefriction lining material on each of the pads isnot less than the recommended minimumthickness given in the Specifications. Note:Bear in mind that the lining material is normallybonded to a metal backing plate.6 If it is difficult to determine the exactthickness of the pad linings, or if you are at allconcerned about the condition of the pads,then remove them from the calipers for furtherinspection (refer to Chapter 9).7 Check the remaining brake caliper in thesame way.8 If any one of the brake pads has worn downto, or below, the specified limit, all four padsmust be renewed as a set.9 Measure the thickness of the discs with amicrometer, if available, to make sure that theystill have service life remaining. If any disc isthinner than the specified minimum thickness,renew it (refer to Chapter 9). In any case,check the general condition of the discs. Lookfor excessive scoring and discolourationcaused by overheating. If these conditionsexist, remove the relevant disc and have itresurfaced or renewed (refer to Chapter 9).10 Before refitting the wheels and loweringthe car, check all brake lines and hoses (referto Chapter 9). In particular, check the flexiblehoses in the vicinity of the calipers, wherethey are subjected to most movement. Bendthem between the fingers (but do not actuallybend them double, or the casing may bedamaged) and check that this does not revealpreviously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.Rear brakes11 Chock the front wheels then jack up therear of the car and support it on axle stands(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support”).12 For better access, remove the rearwheels.13 To check the brake shoe lining thicknesswithout removing the brake drums, prise therubber plugs from the backplates, and use anelectric torch and mirror to inspect the liningsof the leading brake shoes. Check that thethickness of the lining material on the brakeshoes is not less than the recommendationgiven in the Specifications.14 If it is difficult to determine the exactthickness of the brake shoe linings, or if youare at all concerned about the condition of theshoes, then remove the rear drums for a morecomprehensive inspection (refer to Chapter9).15 With the drum removed, check the shoereturn and hold-down springs for correctinstallation, and check the wheel cylinders forleakage of brake fluid. Check the frictionsurface of the brake drums for scoring anddiscoloration. If excessive, the drum shouldbe resurfaced or renewed.16 Before refitting the wheels, check allbrake lines and hoses (refer to Chapter 9). Oncompletion, apply the handbrake and checkthat the rear wheels are locked. Thehandbrake also requires periodic adjustment,and if its travel seems excessive, refer toSection 27.15 Roadwheel nut tightnesscheck11 Apply the handbrake.2 Remove the wheel covers, using the flatend of the wheelbrace supplied in the tool kit(on some models it will be necessary tounscrew the retaining bolts with a specialkey).11595Ford Fiesta Remake
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Fuel system - central fuel injectio
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Fuel system - electronic fuel injec
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4D•1Chapter 4 Part D: Fuel system
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Fuel system - sequential electronic
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Exhaust and emission control system
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5A•1Chapter 5 Part A:Starting and
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Starting and charging systems 5A•
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5B•1Chapter 5 Part B:Ignition sys
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Ignition system 5B•3flux can pass
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Ignition system 5B•55.3 Disconnec
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Ignition system 5B•79.3 Distribut
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9•1Chapter 9Braking systemContent
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Braking system 9•34 Withdraw the
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Braking system 9•56.3 Depress and
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Braking system 9•78.3 Compress th
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Braking system 9•911.6 Servo moun
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Braking system 9•11Bleeding - usi
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Braking system 9•1318.4 Handbrake
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Braking system 9•1524.6 Belt-brea
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Braking system 9•17cylinder reser
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10•1Chapter 10Suspension and stee
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Suspension and steering 10•31 Gen
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Suspension and steering 10•52.17
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Suspension and steering 10•7A Sus
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Suspension and steering 10•99.6 P
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Suspension and steering 10•11posi
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Suspension and steering 10•1319.1
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Suspension and steering 10•17Refi
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11•1Chapter 11Bodywork and fittin
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Bodywork and fittings 11•3almost
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Bodywork and fittings 11•57.3b Bo
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Bodywork and fittings 11•918.2 Mi
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Bodywork and fittings 11•1327.3 T
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12•1Chapter 12Body electrical sys
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Body electrical systems 12•3Bulbs
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Body electrical systems 12•53.1a
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Body electrical systems 12•96.13
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Body electrical systems 12•1727 A
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Wiring diagrams 12•1912Notes, int
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Wiring diagrams 12•21Diagram 1a:
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Wiring diagrams 12•23Diagram 1c:
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Wiring diagrams 12•25Diagram 1e:
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Wiring diagrams 12•27Diagram 2a:
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Wiring diagrams 12•33Diagram 4: I
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REF•2 Conversion factorsWeightsKe
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REF•4 General repair proceduresWh
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REF•6 Conversion FactorsLength (d
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REF•8 Tools and working facilitie
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REF•10 MOT test checksThis is a g
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REF•12 MOT test checksExhaust sys
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REF•14 Fault findingEngine Engine
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REF•16 Fault findingEngine (conti
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REF•18 Fault findingAutomatic tra
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REF•20 Fault findingElectrical sy
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REF•22 Glossary of technical term
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REF•28 IndexFault finding - clutc
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Preserving Our Motoring HeritageJoh
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Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

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