Chapter 1 Routine maintenance and servicing

Every 10 000 miles or 12 months 1•135.2 Hoses, like drivebelts, have a habit offailing at the worst possible time - toprevent the inconvenience of a blownradiator or heater hose, inspect themcarefully as shown heresqueezed (see illustration). If you are usingnon-Ford specification antifreeze, and sohave to renew the coolant every two years orso, it’s a good idea to renew the hoses at thattime, regardless of their apparent condition.3 Make sure that all hose connections aretight. A leak in the cooling system will usuallyshow up as white- or rust-coloured depositson the areas adjoining the leak; if the springclamps that are used to secure the hoses inthis system appear to be slackening, theyshould be renewed to prevent the possibilityof leaks.4 Some other hoses are secured to theirfittings with clamps. Where clamps are used,check to be sure they haven’t lost theirtension, allowing the hose to leak. If clampsaren’t used, make sure the hose has notexpanded and/or hardened where it slips overthe fitting, allowing it to leak.5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drainplugs and fittings etc, looking for any signsof leakage of oil, transmission and/or brakehydraulic fluid, coolant and power steeringfluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in thesame place, close inspection of the groundunderneath it will soon show any leaks. Assoon as a leak is detected, its source mustbe traced and rectified. Where oil has beenleaking for some time, it is usually necessaryto use a steam cleaner, pressure washer orsimilar, to clean away the accumulateddirt, so that (when the engine is run again)the exact source of the leak can beidentified.Vacuum hoses6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses,especially those in the emissions system, to becolour-coded, or to be identified by colouredstripes moulded into them. Various systemsrequire hoses with different wall thicknesses,collapse resistance and temperatureresistance. When renewing hoses, be sure thenew ones are made of the same material.7 Often the only effective way to check ahose is to remove it completely from thevehicle. If more than one hose is removed, besure to label the hoses and fittings to ensurecorrect installation.8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure toinclude any plastic T-fittings in the check.Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check thehose where it fits over the fitting for distortion,which could cause leakage.9 A small piece of vacuum hose (quarter-inchinside diameter) can be used as astethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Holdone end of the hose to your ear, and probearound vacuum hoses and fittings, listeningfor the “hissing” sound characteristic of avacuum leak.Warning: When probing with thevacuum-hose stethoscope, bevery careful not to come intocontact with moving enginecomponents such as the auxiliarydrivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.Fuel hosesWarning: There are certainprecautions which must betaken when inspecting orservicing fuel systemcomponents. Work in a well-ventilatedarea, and do not allow open flames(cigarettes, appliance pilot lights, etc.) orbare light bulbs near the work area. Mopup any spills immediately, and do not storefuel-soaked rags where they could ignite.10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration andchafing. Check especially for cracks in areaswhere the hose bends, and also just beforefittings, such as where a hose attaches to thefuel filter.11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified bythe word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on thehose, should be used for fuel line renewal.Never, under any circumstances, useunreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubingor water hose for fuel lines.12 Spring-type clamps are commonly usedon fuel lines. These clamps often lose theirtension over a period of time, and can be“sprung” during removal. Replace allspring-type clamps with screw clampswhenever a hose is replaced.Metal lines13 Sections of metal piping are often usedfor fuel line between the fuel filter and theengine. Check carefully to be sure the pipinghas not been bent or crimped, and that crackshave not started in the line.14 If a section of metal fuel line must berenewed, only seamless steel piping shouldbe used, since copper and aluminium pipingdon’t have the strength necessary towithstand normal engine vibration.15 Check the metal brake lines where theyenter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulicunit (if used) for cracks in the lines or loosefittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage callsfor an immediate and thorough inspection ofthe brake system.6 Engine compartment wiringcheck11 With the vehicle parked on level ground,apply the handbrake firmly and open thebonnet. Using an inspection light or a smallelectric torch, check all visible wiring withinand beneath the engine compartment.2 What you are looking for is wiring that isobviously damaged by chafing against sharpedges, or against moving suspension/transmission components and/or the auxiliarydrivebelt, by being trapped or crushedbetween carelessly-refitted components, ormelted by being forced into contact with thehot engine castings, coolant pipes, etc. Inalmost all cases, damage of this sort iscaused in the first instance by incorrectrouting on reassembly, after previous workhas been carried out.3 Depending on the extent of the problem,damaged wiring may be repaired by rejoiningthe break or splicing-in a new length of wire,using solder to ensure a good connection,and remaking the insulation with adhesiveinsulating tape or heat-shrink tubing, asappropriate. If the damage is extensive, giventhe implications for the vehicle’s futurereliability, the best long-term answer may wellbe to renew that entire section of the loom,however expensive this may appear.4 When the actual damage has beenrepaired, ensure that the wiring loom is reroutedcorrectly, so that it is clear of othercomponents, and not stretched or kinked, andis secured out of harm’s way using the plasticclips, guides and ties provided.5 Check all electrical connectors, ensuringthat they are clean, securely fastened, andthat each is locked by its plastic tabs or wireclip, as appropriate. If any connector showsexternal signs of corrosion (accumulations ofwhite or green deposits, or streaks of “rust”),or if any is thought to be dirty, it must beunplugged and cleaned using electricalcontact cleaner. If the connector pins areseverely corroded, the connector must berenewed; note that this may mean the renewalof that entire section of the loom - see yourlocal Ford dealer for details.6 If the cleaner completely removes thecorrosion to leave the connector in asatisfactory condition, it would be wise topack the connector with a suitable materialwhich will exclude dirt and moisture,preventing the corrosion from occurringagain; a Ford dealer may be able torecommend a suitable product.7 Check the condition of the battery11595Ford Fiesta Remake