AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 8, No4, December 2007 © AUTEXlabour <strong>in</strong>tensive post-knitt<strong>in</strong>g processes such as cutt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> sew<strong>in</strong>g, which makes this <strong>production</strong>suitable <strong>in</strong> countries with low labour costs, such as eastern Europe <strong>and</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a. Ano<strong>the</strong>r disadvantageis material waste <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> cutt<strong>in</strong>g process. A high degree of <strong>the</strong> knitted material is cut-loss, even when<strong>the</strong> right form of <strong>the</strong> panels is formed <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> cutt<strong>in</strong>g mach<strong>in</strong>e.3.2.2 Fully fashionFigure 4. Cut & sew <strong>production</strong> method.Figure 5. Fully fashion <strong>production</strong> method.Fully fashion or shap<strong>in</strong>g is a method of knitt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>production</strong> where <strong>the</strong> front, back <strong>and</strong> sleeve pieces areknitted <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> right shape directly <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> knitt<strong>in</strong>g mach<strong>in</strong>e. The cutt<strong>in</strong>g process is at a m<strong>in</strong>imum or totallyelim<strong>in</strong>ated, but some post-knit cutt<strong>in</strong>g can still be necessary. Trimm<strong>in</strong>gs <strong>and</strong> pockets are knittedseparately <strong>and</strong> sewn toge<strong>the</strong>r with <strong>the</strong> rest of <strong>the</strong> knitted pieces to complete <strong>the</strong> garment. The benefitof this <strong>production</strong> method compared with <strong>the</strong> cut & sew method is that cutt<strong>in</strong>g is elim<strong>in</strong>ated or at am<strong>in</strong>imum, <strong>and</strong> that <strong>the</strong> material consumption is much lower due to lower cut-loss. Both material <strong>and</strong>labour costs are saved <strong>in</strong> comparison to <strong>the</strong> cut & sew <strong>production</strong> method.3.2.3 Integral knitt<strong>in</strong>gFigure 6. Integral knitt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>production</strong> method.http://www.autexrj.org/No4-2007/0219.pdf 267
AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 8, No4, December 2007 © AUTEXIntegral knitt<strong>in</strong>g means that trimm<strong>in</strong>gs, pockets, buttonholes <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r accessories are directly knitted<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> fully fashion produced panels. With this technique <strong>the</strong>re are fewer post-knit processes such ascutt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> sew<strong>in</strong>g. Compared with cut & sew <strong>and</strong> fully fashion <strong>production</strong> <strong>methods</strong>, sav<strong>in</strong>gs can behad <strong>in</strong> both <strong>the</strong> cutt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> sew<strong>in</strong>g post-knit processes. In addition <strong>the</strong> quality <strong>and</strong> outlook of <strong>the</strong> readygarment can be improved by this method of <strong>in</strong>tegrat<strong>in</strong>g accessories <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> panels directly <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> knitt<strong>in</strong>gprocess. Also, this <strong>production</strong> method reduces <strong>the</strong> cut-loss to a m<strong>in</strong>imum.3.2.4 Complete garmentFigure 7. Complete garment <strong>production</strong> method.In complete garment <strong>production</strong> <strong>the</strong> entire garment is ready made directly <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> flat knitt<strong>in</strong>g mach<strong>in</strong>ewith no post-knit processes such as cutt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>and</strong> sew<strong>in</strong>g. The different parts of <strong>the</strong> garment are shaped<strong>and</strong> knitted toge<strong>the</strong>r with trimm<strong>in</strong>gs, pockets <strong>and</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r accessories. The advantages of this techniqueare many, <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g: no waste of material as cut-loss <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> cutt<strong>in</strong>g process; <strong>and</strong> no sew<strong>in</strong>g or cutt<strong>in</strong>gas expensive post-knit processes. All yarn <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> entire garment comes from <strong>the</strong> same yarn cones,which enables higher quality. Due to <strong>the</strong> seamless technology <strong>the</strong> garment could atta<strong>in</strong> a perfect fit<strong>and</strong> be comfortable to wear. This technology makes it possible to shorten <strong>the</strong> lead time <strong>and</strong> produce“on-dem<strong>and</strong> knitt<strong>in</strong>g”, which could shorten <strong>production</strong> lead time considerably.3.3. The <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> of <strong>the</strong> fashion <strong>bus<strong>in</strong>ess</strong>Figure 8 is a general model of <strong>the</strong> fashion <strong>bus<strong>in</strong>ess</strong>. The boxes conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g merch<strong>and</strong>ise, market<strong>in</strong>g<strong>and</strong> design departments represent <strong>the</strong> basic functions <strong>in</strong> a fashion company. Production,transportation <strong>and</strong> store are most likely to be ano<strong>the</strong>r company. The key factor to a successfulenterprise, regardless of <strong>the</strong> nature of <strong>the</strong> <strong>bus<strong>in</strong>ess</strong>, is to produce products that end users want to buy,when <strong>the</strong>y want to buy <strong>the</strong>m. Therefore, precise <strong>in</strong>formation about dem<strong>and</strong> is important. The<strong>in</strong>formation is quantitative <strong>and</strong> represents actual sales. This dem<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong>formation, along with fashionknowledge, is what <strong>the</strong> merch<strong>and</strong>ise <strong>and</strong> design departments use, toge<strong>the</strong>r with pre-<strong>production</strong> tests,to decide what to produce <strong>and</strong> how much. Then <strong>the</strong> <strong>production</strong> starts <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> market<strong>in</strong>g departmenttries to affect <strong>the</strong> end users’ dem<strong>and</strong> <strong>in</strong> such a way as to <strong>in</strong>crease <strong>the</strong> likelihood that <strong>the</strong>y will want tobuy <strong>the</strong> new product.In <strong>the</strong> cloth<strong>in</strong>g <strong>bus<strong>in</strong>ess</strong> it is common to po<strong>in</strong>t out two different types of markets, basic <strong>and</strong> fashiondesign cloth<strong>in</strong>g. In <strong>the</strong> basic market <strong>the</strong> variation <strong>in</strong> dem<strong>and</strong>, both volume <strong>and</strong> design, is fairlypredictable. The risk of hav<strong>in</strong>g undesired products is low. The ma<strong>in</strong> problems are volume <strong>and</strong> costfactors. In <strong>the</strong> fashion market, or fast fashion to be more precise, <strong>the</strong> risk of hav<strong>in</strong>g undesired productsis much higher. What is right <strong>in</strong> fashion one day is wrong <strong>the</strong> next day. This means that <strong>the</strong> time formarket<strong>in</strong>g a desired product is <strong>the</strong> s<strong>in</strong>gle most important factor to success. The <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> must bedesigned to be flexible <strong>and</strong> have as low a time to market as possible. The <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong> needs to betime-based <strong>and</strong> customer orientated. It needs to be responsive to rapid changes <strong>in</strong> dem<strong>and</strong> [4]. A timecompetitor is a company that creates a competition advantage for itself based on its possibility todesign <strong>and</strong> deliver products faster than its competitors [5].Christopher lists three ma<strong>in</strong> dimensions of time-based consumption [6]:Time to market, i.e. how long it takes <strong>the</strong> <strong>bus<strong>in</strong>ess</strong> to recognize a market opportunity, to translate this<strong>in</strong>to a product or service, <strong>and</strong> to br<strong>in</strong>g it to <strong>the</strong> market.http://www.autexrj.org/No4-2007/0219.pdf 268
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