4 - Wilkes Bashford

FALL 2010UNABASHED BAY AREA STYLEAPPROACHABLE STYLENEW AT WILKES BASHFORD:FASHIONS THAT ARE FUN... NOT OVERLY SERIOUS“BE DAZZLING” JEWELRYORGANIC STATEMENTS, ICONIC STYLE,BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY & MORE!VETERANS MEMORIALWILKES ON SAN FRANCISCO’S DREAM PROJECT

FEATURES4 Welcome Letter12 Meet Our Extended Family14 Uncommon Loyalty20 Tyler’s Picks23 Wilkes’ Passion: The San FranciscoVeterans Memorial Project30 Service: Love Your Closet!58 Q&A With Russ Mitchell63 Unabashedly Wilkes: FavoriteWeekend GetawaysFASHION24 Be Dazzling Trends in Jewelry32 Approachable Style34 Profile: Bogner38 Men on the Go!46 Get More Bang for Your Buck52 Clothing: Tailored to Perfection54 Furnishings: Haute Under the Collar56 Profile: Kiton60 Dress: Nirvana Through ClothingDEPARTMENTS6 Happenings36 Ask Wilkes62 Events64 Cooking: A Recipe for Romance66 World Scene68 At Your ServiceWilkes Bashford375 Sutter StreetSan Francisco415.986.4380450 Stanford Shopping CenterPalo Alto650.322.7080RETAIL EDITOR-IN-CHIEFWilkes BashfordCONCEPT /CREATIVE DIRECTORAndrew Mitchell-NamdarMERCHANDISING DIRECTORBob MitchellEDITOR-IN-CHIEFKaren Alberg GrossmanDESIGN DIRECTORHans GschliesserMANAGING EDITORJillian SpraguePROJECT MANAGERLisa MontemorraDESIGNERSCynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole VendittiDIRECTOR OF PRODUCTIONPeg EadieDIRECTOR OF PREPRESSHugh K. StantonCREATIVE DIRECTIONWSAA, Inc., Westport, CTWILKES ART DIRECTION & COPYWSAA, Inc., Westport, CTBUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUPPUBLISHERStuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEOBritton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COOMac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICERChristine SullivanAPPAREL FORUMAndrisen Morton DENVER, COGarys NEWPORT BEACH, CAHubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MNKilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OHLarrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PAMalouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TXMario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WAMitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NYMitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CTOak Hall MEMPHIS, TNRodes LOUISVILLE, KYRubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LAStanley Korshak DALLAS, TXWilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CAFashion Forum Magazine is published in 14 regionaleditions for member stores of the Apparel ForumCopyright 2010. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175;Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishersaccept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicitedmanuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of thismagazine may be reproduced without written permission of thepublishers. Volume 13, Issue 2. Printed In The U.S.A.

welcomeLOTS OF EXCITINGCHANGES HAVE BEENHAPPENING IN OURSTORES... AND WEPROMISE IT’S ONLYTHE BEGINNING.Wow... the first six months since wejoined forces with the Mitchells havebeen beyond our expectations!I have been so pleased to see somany familiar faces coming back toWilkes Bashford.Lots of exciting changes arecontinuing to take place in both ourSan Francisco and Palo Alto stores.Since the Mitchells have been here,over the past months, we’ve all beendoing a lot of listening, learning andsurveying of our customers in aneffort to serve you better. As a result,you’ll be seeing some great newdesigners in our stores, several atmore “approachable” price points.While we will always be committedto carrying the extraordinaryhigh-end merchandise for whichWilkes Bashford is known... at yourrequest, we’re also adding morelifestyle-oriented “everyday” productfor women, branching out beyondclothes for special occasions. Weare grateful for any feedback youcontinue to provide, so don’t be shy.It is invaluable in our efforts to bettermeet your needs.This has truly been a “partnershipmade in heaven” and it feels like I’veworked with the Mitchells forever.They are all having a great timediscovering the wonders of theBay Area and becoming part of ourcommunity.Again, our sincere thanks for yourcontinued friendship and support.The buzz in the community has beenunbelievable and we couldn’t do itwithout you!We look forward to seeing you in thestores and making you look greatthis fall!— Wilkes Bashford

WILKES BASHFORDWITH TYLER, JACK AND ANDREW MITCHELL

happeningsKITONThis spring we hosted our annual Kiton men’sand women’s trunk shows in both San Franciscoand Palo Alto . We were so grateful that in additionto the familiar face of Massimo Bizzocchi,Antonio Paone, part of the Kiton family, camefrom Naples to San Francisco. He was there notonly to help with the trunk shows, but to alsoshow the family’s support for the renaissance ofWilkes Bashford.THE DANDY INSAN FRANCISCOPatrick McDonald, aka the Dandy of New York,spent a day in each of our stores this pastspring assiting with the launch of a new jewelrydesigner to our stores: Kimberly McDonald.“Mother Nature at her finest” perfectlydescribes her jewelry.Kimberly McDonald has always had a deeplove and appreciation for nature and theseattributes have found their way into her finejewelry line. The North Carolina native, nowbased in New York City, has created an entirecollection using natural and organic materialssuch as agates and geodes, complemented bynatural untreated fine materials such as diamonds,raw emeralds and baroque pearls.McDonald’s commitment to honoring nature isfurther underscored by her use of reclaimedgold and wood, recycled diamonds and otherprecious stones.Note, that while she and Patrick share thesame last name, they are not related, but arelongtime friends... However, Patrick’s twinbrother Michael just recently joined the WilkesBashford sales team, so look for him this fall onthe 2nd and 5th floors!6

BEHNAZSARAFPOUR ANDSAN FRANCISCO’SFIRST LADYIn May we introduced to our stores the latestcollection from Behnaz Sarafpour, one of NewYork City’s hottest young fashion designers. Tohelp celebrate, we coincided her fall trunk showwith an in-store event benefiting San FranciscoFirst Lady Jennifer Siebel Newsom’s documentaryfilm Miss Representation.The collection was stunning, and we wereable to raise much needed funds for the SanFrancisco Film Society. Thanks to all whostopped by!OPERA GUILDWe closed out spring with a fabulous eveningparty to say thanks to the top patrons of theSan Francisco Opera Guild. On hand for theday was lengendary designer and longtimefriend of Wilkes, Zandra Rhodes. What madethis even more special was that Zandra hasdesigned all the costumes for this fall’s productionof Aida. Throughout the store we displayedseveral of the costumes that are sure tobedazzle audiences. In addition to the costumes,we presented “the best of spring atWilkes” via models on pedestals.7

happeningsVERONICA BEARD LAUNCHIn May we were honored to debut to San Francisco Veronica Beard, anew collection of tailored jackets for women. One-half of the NewYork-based design duo, Veronica Swanson Beard, grew up in SanFrancisco and could not have been more right that their collectionwas perfect for Bay Area women. Ever appreciative of iconic fashion,Veronica and her sister-in-law (also named Veronica Beard) set out todesign the daily uniform. “The Jacket,” classic and versatile withinterchangeable dickeys, is the first piece of the uniform. On hand forsupport were longtime friends Vanessa Getty, Alexis Swanson Trainaand Brook Read as well as lots of other fun and familiar faces.If you missed it, stop in this fall to see how perfect these jackets are.8

PARCA AUXILIARYLUNCHEONAND FASHION SHOWThe fear was that Mother Nature was going to spoil the day, butinstead she shined down on all at this year’s Parca Auxiliaryluncheon and fashion show in Hillsborough. Over 400 womenrallied once again to raise close to $185,000 for Parca, a nonprofitassociation serving people with developmental disabilitiesand their families in the Bay Area. This was the first yearwe were involved dressing all the men for the fashion show. Notonly were they great sports with all the “cat calling” from theaudience but they also looked great!WEBSITE LAUNCH WILKESBASHFORD.COMBe sure to check out our newly designed website. Find out about all of our stores’upcoming events, see past and latest image books, mailers and magazines, followour fashion and event blog or join us as a friend on Facebook! There you can alsolearn more about our history and what is happening at our east coast locations.CHECK IT OUTWILKESBASHFORD.COM9

happeningsMORE TOCOMEVISIT...WILKESBASHFORD.COMFALL 2010WILKES TRUNK SHOW SCHEDULE9/10 PAUL MORELLI JEWELRY—WOMEN’S SAN FRANCISCO9/11 PAUL MORELLI JEWELRY—WOMEN’S PALO ALTO9/11 KITON—MEN’S SAN FRANCISCO/PALO ALTO9/11 HAMILTON CUSTOM SHIRTS—MEN’S SAN FRANCISCO9/12 HAMILTON CUSTOM SHIRTS—MEN’S PALO ALTO9/25 LUCIANO BARBERA—MEN’S SAN FRANCISCO9/26 LUCIANO BARBERA—MEN’S SAN FRANCISCO9/30-10/2 BRIONI—MEN’S & WOMEN’S SAN FRANCISCO/PALO ALTO9/30-10/2 JOHN LOBB—MEN’S SAN FRANCISCO/PALO ALTO10/9 ZEGNA—MEN’S SAN FRANCISCO/PALO ALTO10/14-17 BONTONI—MEN’S SAN FRANCISCO/PALO ALTO10/14 & 10/16 KITON—MEN’S & WOMEN’S SAN FRANCISCO10/15 & 10/17 KITON—MEN’S & WOMEN’S PALO ALTO10/20-21 BELVEST—MEN’S SAN FRANCISCO10/22 BELVEST—MEN’S PALO ALTO10/27-28 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI—MEN’S & WOMEN’S PALO ALTO10/29-30 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI—MEN’S & WOMEN’S SAN FRANCISCO11/2-3 MICHAEL KORS—WOMEN’S SAN FRANCISCO10

NO.108/190TOE LASTINGThe front of the upper is wrapped overthe last, then tightened and squeezed intopleats until the correct toe shape is defined.The metal wire is affixed to hold the leatherin its precise position.It takes 190 steps to create every pairof John Lobb shoes. Discover more atjohnlobb.com

introductionsMEET OUREXTENDEDFAMILYWE RECENTLY RENAMED OUR COMPANY “MITCHELLS FAMILY OF STORES.”WE CHOSE THIS NAME BECAUSE THE STORES WE’VE ACQUIRED ARE ALSO FAMILYBUSINESSES... AND WE ARE PROUD TO STILL BE WORKING WITH MEMBERS OFTHEIR FOUNDING FAMILIES. THE NAME ALSO CONVEYS THAT OUR BUSINESSIS BUILT ON RELATIONSHIPS... AMONG OUR ASSOCIATES, DESIGNERS AND OFCOURSE, OUR CUSTOMERS.Mitchells. The Mitchells Family of Storeshad its humble beginnings in 1958, whenthe original “Ed Mitchells” was foundedby our parents/grandparents, Ed andNorma Mitchell. The epitome of a familybusiness, Mitchells in Westport has beenthe training ground for their two sons, Jackand Bill, and seven grandsons, with a newgeneration of Mitchells not far behind!Richards. In 1995, we acquired Richardsof Greenwich from beloved founder EddieSchachter and his visionary daughter,Susan Schacter. Together, they trulycreated a unique men’s specialty retailer.Now run by Scott Mitchell, you will stillalso see Eddie Schachter in the store onmany a Saturday, “cracking the whip” likehe did 40 years ago.Marshs. In 2005, we acquired Marshs ofHuntington, New York, from the Marshfamily. Founded by Herbert Marsh in 1925,the store today is run by his grandsonRon Marsh and Chris Mitchell, a thirdgeneration Mitchell. Herbert’s son andRon’s father, Marvin Marsh, who startedat Marshs 58 years ago, is still often seenin the store. In May 2010, legendaryretailer Thomas Miller, who foundedhis renowned retail store in 1977, joinedforces with Marshs.Wilkes Bashford. In December of 2009,we added the Wilkes Bashford storesof San Francisco and Palo Alto to ourportfolio. Wilkes Bashford was foundedin 1966 by the retail icon of the samename. Tyler Mitchell has relocated towork side-by-side with Wilkes. AndrewMitchell-Namdar and Jack Mitchell arespending a lot of time there, as well.Wilkes Bashford would never be thesame without Wilkes... it’s a joy to workwith him!We hope you’ll visit our “extended family”whenever you’re in our communities!MitchellsfoundersEd andNormaMitchell

M | MITCHELLS FAMILY OF STORES | FALL 2010 THE LIFESTYLEMITCHELLS:THE MITCHELL FAMILYMARSHS | THOMAS MILLER:RUSS MITCHELL, RON MARSH, CHRIS MITCHELL,THOMAS MILLER & BOB MITCHELLMITCHELLSRICHARDSMARSHSWILKES BASHFORDRICHARDS:JACK MITCHELL, EDDIE SCHACHTER,SUSAN SCHACHTER & SCOTT MITCHELLWILKES BASHFORD:TYLER MITCHELL, WILKES BASHFORDJACK MITCHELL & ANDREW MITCHELL-NAMDAR

UNCOMMONLOYALTYCELEBRATING“THE WORLD’S MOSTLOYAL ASSOCIATES”In a day when change is the onlyconstant and the workplaceis more transient than everbefore, we are thrilled to workwith a group of consummateprofessionals, who we believeare unprecedented in theircollective loyalty... to ourbusiness, our industry and totheir beloved customers.From our buyers and office staffto our tailors and associates,throughout our stores, you willencounter dozens of peoplewho have been with our storesfor many years. Here, withtremendous gratitude, we payspecial homage to them.“WHY AM I LOYAL TO THISJOB? BECAUSE THERE’SNO BETTER PLACE TO GO.”ROBERT SIMMONS

RachelMartinez........................9YEARSRobertSimmons9........................YEARSAlexanderKoutsoyannis........................8YEARSArnelSolanga5........................YEARSTaniaVasquez........................6YEARSKamalNajibi4........................YEARSFaranSheikh9........................YEARSOPEN SINCE 2001, WILKES BASHFORD PALO ALTOIS STILL HOME TO MANY ASSOCIATES THAT HAVEBEEN WITH US SINCE “DAY ONE!”CAMERA SHY: NADINE MARTIN, ERIKKA PASCUALPALO ALTO

UNCOMMONLOYALTYSAN FRANCISCOShéreeChambers28........................YEARSArnaudGeble17........................YEARS“I’VE STAYED ALLTHESE YEARSBECAUSE OF THEQUALITY... OF THEMERCHANDISE AND OFTHE PEOPLE... BOTHCLIENTS AND CO-WORKERS ALIKE.”Elizabeth Crocker22 years of loyaltyMichelleGoulet18........................YEARSRandyCandler21........................YEARS

JamesBastian17........................YEARSChristineRobbins22........................YEARSJosephDurst24........................YEARSElizabethCrocker22........................YEARSShigekoPittman32........................YEARSCathyEilenberger-Ubell18........................YEARS

FIT FOR AN INAUGURATIONTALES OFUNCOMMONLOYALTYTO OURCUSTOMERSONE BENEFIT OF ASPECIALTY STORE ISTHAT THE EMPLOYEESREALLY GET TOKNOW YOU ANDUNDERSTAND YOURNEEDS.HERE ARE JUST A FEWOF THE COUNTLESSSTORIES OF THOSEWHO GO ABOVE& BEYOND...ShigekoPittman........................32 yearsof loyaltyIn 1978, Diane Feinstein was beinginaugurated as Mayor of San Francisco.The day before, at the last minute, theyasked Mr. Bashford to dress her for theevent. Mr. Bashford and his assistant andI ran to City Hall with many outfits. Buteverything was either the wrong style, too dressy or thewrong size. The only thing she liked was a burgundycoloredBrioni suit, but it didn’t fit at all. I took hermeasurements and they sent it back to the store. I wentin very early the morning of the inauguration, which wasat noon, but the suit wasn’t there. The inauguration wasin just few hours. As soon as I got the suit, I worked asfast and hard as I could, getting there 5 minutes beforenoon! She was so happy, because she loved it and it fither perfectly!3,000-MILE HOUSE CALLRandyCandler........................21 yearsof loyaltyPrior to a vacation I was going on, aclient of mine called from his home inPalm Beach, Florida, unhappy with theway the clothing I sent him arrived.He had bought quite a bit and he isvery meticulous, he wanted it arrangedby outfit, each suit hanging with the right shirt andtie, but the packers didn’t send it that way. I reallywanted to make him happy. Since I was going to theCaribbean, I suggested to him (after running the ideaby Wilkes) that I stop by on my way back. I was flyingthrough Miami, so I rented a car there and droveup to Palm Beach. I went through all his purchases,organized his closet, even steamed out any wrinkles. Ithink he was blown away by what I now call my ‘3,000-mile house call.’

YOUR PERSONAL CONCIERGECathyEilenberger-Ubell........................18 yearsof loyaltyI make a lot of visits to my clients’ homes,helping them sort out their closets, evenvisiting to switch out their wardrobesbetween seasons. After I review thecloset, I make a list of things they need.I take care of things they need to getrid of, consigning clothing for them or taking it toGoodWill. Sometimes they e-mail me before trips andI actually tell them what to pack. For my top clientsI’m on call 24/7. My “personal concierge service”starts with wardrobe, but goes way beyond that totheir “total look.” I work with a phenomenal salon andspa in Union Square, that upholds what I call “WilkesBashford standards.” They are busy, but I get priorityappointments for my clients for hair or make-up... and ifa client isn’t sure what he or she wants, I work with thecolorists or make-up artists to help them get the rightlook. I love providing this level of service for my clients.I am a trusted consultant and it’s a lot of fun.FITTINGS & FUN IN FRESNOArnaudGebler........................24 yearsof loyaltyOne of my favorite customers is a familyin Fresno with a large building company,I work with the father, the son, who ispresident of the company, and now theson-in-law as well. I reorganize theirclosets and when they come into town,they shop with me. When the son and son-in-law eachgot married, I set them each up with great reservationsin Paris during their honeymoons, and they had awonderful time. I love going out to see them, althoughit’s a 3 1/2 hour drive. Last week our Master Tailorand I had to leave at 4:30a.m. go down there for somefittings! Afterward, they treated us to a magnificentItalian lunch, it was so much fun! To me, this businessis about building trust and friendships... and beingmore than a salesperson to my clients.

tyler’s picksSPRUCE“UPTOWN NYC CHIC IN LAUREL HEIGHTS”Since moving to town, oneof my favorite discoveriesis definitely Spruce, arestaurant in Laurel Heights.Originally recommended tome by a friend, it has creativetop notch food, amazingcocktails, the décor is verysexy and I love that it’s tuckedaway on a residential street.My girlfriend Stephanie andI usually get there at leastonce a month, it’s become our“special little place.”The best cocktail there isthe “Whiskey Smash.” It’scrushed ice, Buffalo TraceSmall Batch Bourbon, freshlemon and crushed mint. Onthe menu, the Pea Ravioli isincredible and the RoastedHalibut and Spring Lambrack are tied for my favorites.For dessert, the homemadedoughnuts are insane.It reminds me of the kind ofplace you’d find tucked away onMadison Avenue in New YorkCity, very “uptown chic.” Also,the service is spectacular!Spruce, 3640 Sacramento StreetSan Francisco, CA 94118-1710(415) 931-5100Tyler Mitchell,Co-Owner/Men’sFashion Director ofWilkes Bashford,recently relocatedto San Franciscofrom the East Coastand is loving it!Located in a 1930s autohouse, the 5,000 squarefootspace highlights muchof the old structure. Theinterior is custom-designedby Stephen Brady forWilliams-Sonoma Home

Ma(i)sonry is an art, designand wine gallery set amidst acontemporary, landscapedsculpture garden. It is housedin the original Charles RovegnoHouse, built in 1902, which is onthe National Registry of HistoricPlaces and the Napa CountyHistoric Resources InventoryMA(i)SONRY/BLACKBIRD VINEYARDSWHERE AMAZING WINES MEET ART & AMBIANCE...Award-winningwiingBlackbird Vineyardsis an “ArtisanalalProducer ofPomerol-InspirededWines” created edbywinemaker ArronronPotts.I am a big wine lover and one ofmy favorite things about movingto San Francisco has been Napa...and my favorite place to go in Napais Ma(i)sonry.I met the owner, Michael Polenske,who has become a great friend, atWilkes Bashford. I literally offeredhim a glass of water on the 4th floorand we started talking. He had comein to get hisinseam on a pair of tightpants remeasured. I told him I justmoved here from the East Coast andthat I hadn’t been to Napa. He saidthat it was unacceptable as he was“Mr. Napa” a” and he had us head upimmediately for a great dinner andtour of Ma(i)sonry.Ma(i)sonry is 4 miles away from Michael’svineyard, Blackbird, where he makesamazing wines! Ma(i)sonry is really a uniqueplace with an incredible atmosphere. Youfeel like you’re in an old farmhouse in Italythat a really good interior designer hasjust salvaged and turned around... and theyhappen to pour some of the best wines inNapa. It’s a very social place. Often we strikeup conversations with people just passing byor doing a tasting. I’ve been to many privateevents there... dinners, charity events: it’s theultimate. There is a full commercial kitchenon site so that the parties are always topnotch. Michael has incredible taste so anyevent at Ma(i)sonry is always a home run!Ma(i)sonry, 6711 Washington Street, Yountville, CA 94599(707) 944-0889

THE SANFRANCISCOVETERANSMEMORIALPROJECTFor 10 years, I’ve had the greathonor of being on the San FranciscoWar Memorial Board of Trustees.Between the War Memorial OperaHouse and the War MemorialVeterans Building, both built afterWorld War I, lies a site that haslong been earmarked to pay tributeto the sacrifices of our veterans.Situated majestically in frontof City Hall, the VeteransMemorial will honor theextraordinary dedication andsacrifice of those who have goneto battle, and will offer a site ofcontemplation—to reflect, toremember and to heal.Wilkes Bashford, in front of the “sacred soil,”site of the future MemorialWILKES BASHFORDON THE 75-YEAR-OLDDREAM PROJECT,CLOSE TO THE HEARTSOF MANY, THAT WILLSOON FINALLY BEREALIZED.I think that as a city, we all regret thatdue to our famous anti-war protests,San Francisco has had an unearnedreputation of being insensitive toits veterans. On the contrary, whilewe don’t like war, we are extremelysupportive of the men and women whohave fought for our freedom. It will bea great joy for us all to honor them.The site currently contains“sacred soil” from seven battlefieldswhere Americans have fought anddied, with the planned additionof soils from current and futurebattlefields.This project hasfinally made it tothe “front burner”thanks to thepassion of newboard memberMajor GeneralMichael Myatt, 1920s fundraising posterwho chose meto work with him on the memorial. Weare hosting a national competitionfor a structure to be built upon thesacred soil as the Veterans Memorial.We envision something, perhaps, withflowing water.Our Honorary Chairs are Ex-Secretary of State George Schultzand Ex-Secretary of DefenseWilliam Perry.As we are looking to raise$2.5 million in the coming monthsto build and maintain this Memorial,I am hoping that you, our clientsand friends, will join us atfundraising events thatwill be announced in thecoming months.wilkes’ passion

BeDazzlingTrendsSix Designers on What’sNew & Fabulous in Jewelry“MAMA” EARRINGS18k yellow gold twistedlinkearrings, made inItaly $3,000ON THE RUNWAYFaraone Mennella’sstriking elegance isperfectly suited forthe bold simplicityof Michael Korsfall 2010 classiccreations.FARAONE MENNELLA“ Looking elegant andmaking a grand statementare no longer mutuallyexclusive.”conservativeglamour“MAMA” NECKLACE18k yellow gold twisted-linknecklace, made in Italy $8,320

RENEE LEWISeccentricladylike“ This line isinspired by thereally great piecesyour grandmotherhad... the onesyou’d fight yoursister and cousinfor!”SHAKE NECKLACENatural pearls anddiamond-rimmed“diamond shakenecklace,” set in 18kyellow gold, antiquecrystal vessel $15,000The whimsical retroglamor of ReneeLewis’ new collectionis simply stunningwhen paired with thebold retro lines ofGiorgio Armani’s fall2010 Collection.ON THE RUNWAYICONIC ASYMMETRICALEARRING Yellow quartz, set in18k yellow gold $6,600

DIAMOND SLICE EARRINGSSurrounded by natural coloreddiamonds in shades of brown,green, cognac and lavender, in18k white gold $37,300ON THE RUNWAYKimberleyMcDonald’s one-ofa-kindpieces aresensational with theorganic colors andlines of Valentino’sfall 2010 RTWcollection.KIMBERLY MCDONALDAMETHYST RINGWith diamonds,set in 18k yellowgold $5,300“ In my studio we use the phrase‘nothing is better than nature’ alot...because it’s true. I think it’simportant to leave materials inthe most natural state possible.Stones like geodes, agates, opalsand rough diamonds are not trenditems. They’re a part of a wellroundedcollection.”organicstatementsSILK MACRAMÉBRACELETSWith geodes anddiamonds in 18kyellow, rose andwhite gold $1,760

iconicstyleON THE RUNWAYGARDENIABROOCHAn OscarHeyman classicdesign datingback to the1930s. Diamondand enamel,set in platinum$44,000SAPPHIRE &DIAMONDEARRINGSDrops encircledby invisibly setsapphires (anOscar HeymanOSCAR HEYMAN“ TimelessOscar Heymanheirloomdesigns froman era whenladies weren’tafraid to beladies...”“Oscar, meet Oscar.”Oscar Heyman’siconic glamour meetsits perfect match inthe bold extravaganceof Oscar de la Renta’sfall 2010 runwayshowstoppers.STAR SAPPHIREDIAMOND RINGPerfect six ray asterism,unheated star sapphirewith oval diamonds, set inplatinum, a classic sincethe 1920s $44,000technique sincethe 1930s) hangEMERALD ANDoff round, pear,DIAMOND EARRINGSmarquise andPear-shape Colombianoval diamond topemeralds and marquise$120,000diamonds, set in platinum,1950s design $150,000

ON THE RUNWAYWRAPAROUNDRIBBON COCKTAILRING 16-carat rare pearshapefaceted rubelite,set in 18k yellow gold$18,900The unique paletteand flow of FrankAncona’s creationsare the idealcomplement to themuted colors andsoft lines of Lanvin’ssensational fall 2010RTW collection.FRANK ANCONAPASTEL PEBBLE CHOKER Citrine, topaz, rose quartz &aquamarine beads with oval cabochon aquamarine & 18kyellow gold clasp $24,500“ The natural colorations andthe flow of my designs aremeant to blend with the softlines of today’s fashion.”naturalelegancePEARL ROPENECKLACE52” of baroque naturalmulti-color Tahitianpearls $9,900RIBBON KNOT EARRING18k yellow gold $6,900

ohemianrhapsody“Bohemian meansmore than just hippiechic. It has deepcultural roots. Whendesigning the Bactriacollection, I waslooking to an ancientand mysterious time.”PADMADANGLING PODCUFF 14k & 10k slatesilver $1,650SNAKE NECKLACE10k and slate silver snakelariat with emerald andgarnet $2,400Padma’s culturallyinspiredpieceswork perfectly withthe rich color andBohemian chicof Etro’s fall 2010RTW, designed byVeronica Etro.ON THE RUNWAYMASAINECKLACE18k & 10k withpyrite, garnet, navcharm and horn$6,800ORCHID EARRINGS10k and slate silver orchidearring $310

serviceAfter 28 years of workingwith customers, I find thatmost of my clients actuallyhate their closet. Despite owning lotsof great designer clothing, they opentheir closets up and say “OMG, I havenothing to wear!” So whenever theyhave a special occasion or simplybecause they love to shop, theycontinue to buy and buy without reallytaking advantage of the magnificentpieces they already own.This prompted me to start alittle “fashion 911” service that Iaffectionately call “Love Your Closet.”It is a service I provide to my bestcustomers and we actually have thebest time doing it!I go into a client’s closet and lookthrough everything. Then, after a bit ofweeding things out and organization,I help them put together fabulousoutfits, often combining pieces andaccessories in ways they wouldn’thave thought of. We choose everypiece of each outfit... the clothes,underpinnings, accessories, even thejewelry, so when they need the outfit,it’s a no-brainer. I bring a rolling rackand we take photos of each outfit andvariation, so they will remember howto put it together... and when we’redone, I give them a little “look book.”Then, when they have an occasion,we know what they have and they canoften dress entirely from their closet,LOVE YOUR CLOSET!SHÉREE CHAMBERS DOLES OUT THE VIP TREATMENTor freshen an outfit up with new shoesor accessories, if they want. This way, Ican also keep what they own in mind, sothat if, for example, I know they have agreat pant, I can call them when I see agreat jacket or shirt to go with it.Recently, one of my wonderful clientscalled saying she was going to Europefor two weeks and then to Africa. Shewas freaking out, imagining she neededto do a ton of shopping. I went into hercloset with her, and to her amazement,we put the entire trip together withclothing all already in her closet.Helping my clients gives me greatpleasure. Nothing makes me happierthan when a client comes in wearinga great outfit we put together orshowing me photos from an event andtelling me about the compliments shegot. It’s my little way of helping tomake people happy.

MADE IN ITALY

NEW ATWILKES!FASHIONS THATARE FUN... NOTOVERLY SERIOUSWe’ve been getting a great reactionto the exciting new designers we’vebeen bringing in, in response to ourcustomers’ request for a broaderselection of products and pricepoints. Discover a wider range ofcasual wear in our women’s and men’sdepartments. All around our stores, wethink you’ll be pleasantly surprised!LOOK FOR THESE NEWDESIGNERS... AND MORE!J BRANDCATHERINE MALANDRINOVALENTINO REDSCHUMACHERETROM. MISSONIAGAVEVALENTINOMONCLERMISSONISTICH’S7 FOR ALL MANKINDMICHAEL KORSSchumacher

J BrandValentino RedCatherine Malandrino

profileTheBOGNER MYSTIQUEWHAT SOPHISTICATES WEAR TO LOOK SMART AND SEXY.BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMANWilly Bogner Sr. was a sportsenthusiast whose Munich-basedcompany (that he founded in 1932)fast became the leading manufacturerof high-quality ski fashion.His son Willy Bogner Jr. becamea celebrity in his own right: memberof the German Olympic skiteam, photographer, filmmaker andthe new chairman of the Munich2018 Olympic Games BidCommittee. He’s also the husbandof Sonia Bogner, a couture designerwho brings a new dimension tothe family business. Here, wespeak to them both about theirprestigious international company,now selling in 30 countries.What’s the difference between the BognerWoman and Sonia Bogner collections?Sonia Bogner is for the womanwho’s unique, cosmopolitan, smart,sensual and self-confident. Itranges from high-class businessoutfits to couture glamour, alwayswith a flirtatious attitude.In contrast, the Bogner Womancollection features sporty classicsincorporating trendy designfeatures.What was your inspiration for fall 2010?It’s about luxurious fabrics and anew dimension of creativity in thejackets and coats. Highlightsinclude double-faced fabrics, furtrims, leather toggle closures,antique silver buckles and militaryinfluences. Trousers range fromnarrow flannel riding pants to thenew peg-top pants in worsted wool.Blouses range from leopard printsto western styles; knitwear featuresslim cardigans and rib-knit turtlenecksin ultra-soft wool-cashmere.Can you describe the kind of womenwho wear Bogner?Our customer base is diverse, butthe common denominators are alove for sports and a passionfor life.Is there a difference betweenhow American and Europeanwomen shop the line?American women aremore playful in puttinglooks together whereasEuropean women tend tocoordinate. Fortunately,the collection accommodatesboth.Where will Bogner’s growth come from?We just opened franchise storesin Kiev and Istanbul; we’ll havefive more in Eastern Europeby year’s end.34

ASKWILKES36ZEGNAQI haven’t shopped in a few seasonsand my old clothes are looking dated.How do I start rebuilding my wardrobe?We’ve broken it down into eleven essentials, in order of importance.Essential #1: The perfect blazer or unconstructed sportcoat. Thisis a must for travel (when pockets are critical) and can be dressedup for work (add a cool tie or pocket square) or down to wear withjeans (add an open-collar shirt, knit top or T-shirt). If you’re buyingjust one, go with a solid color or a very subtle pattern.Essential #2: The dark dressy suit. Come into the store and we’llhelp you find one that works for both your build and your budget.You’ll notice that the newer suit styles are more fitted—but alsomore comfortable—than the suits in your closet. The secret isboth the fabric and the construction; try one on and we promiseyou’ll be happy.Essential #3: Perfect-fitting flat-front pants in lightweight wool,corduroy or cotton. Don’t be afraid of color, especially in casualfive-pocket models.Essential #4: Great jeans! These should be slim but not tight in adark washed denim. If you’re buying just one pair, skip the ripsand abrasions in favor of a more classic style that will take youanywhere.Essential #5: A great pair of casual shoes or boots. (Rememberthat women always notice shoes first!)Essential #6: Dress shoes: either brown leather or chocolatesuede. Brown shoes go with everything except a tuxedo and actuallycomplement gray and navy suits better than black shoes.Essential #7: A sumptuous cashmere sweater in your favorite color.Try matching your eyes or ask a woman what looks best on you.Essential #8: Some new shirts and ties. Both are slimmer than theyused to be: tie widths have narrowed from three and three quarterinches to three and a half (or less); shirts are no longer loose ortent-like. Add color and pattern to brighten your outlook!Essential #9: Two belts: one for suits, one to wear with jeans.Essential #10: An oblong scarf that can be doubled with the endspulled through the loop for a very European look, indoors or out.Essential #11: Statement accessories like a great leather bag, distinctiveeyewear and cool (non-serious) socks. Remember: it’s thelittle things that make the big impressions.And also remember our favorite quote from Hardy Amies: “Aman should look like he’s chosen his clothes with intelligence, putthem on with care, and then forgotten all about them.”

QI’m seeing old-fashioneditems like bowties, vests, tiebars, fedoras and cardigans inmany of the fashion magazines.Are these in style?Vintage or retro-inspired clothes and accessoriesare definitely trending this season. The trick is totake these (or other classic pieces) and combinethem in an eclectic way. Head-to-toe retro is morecostume than clothing, so pick an item or two thatspeaks to you and have fun with it!The important thing to remember about men’sclothing in 2010 is that it’s all about individualstyle. It’s great to know the fashion rules, but evenmore important to know yourself and to whatextent you can pull off breaking them. It’s all aboutconfidence, attitude and an intrinsic sense ofhumor. So if you choose to try something quirky,do it with a smile!QI love wearing suits butworry that they make melook old.Am I overthinking?It all depends on the suit. If it’s baggy with reallybroad shoulders and voluminous trousers, thenyes, it probably makes you look old. We suggestyou try one of the more modern versions that areconsiderably trimmer than yesterday’s styles witha slightly shorter coat and slimmer pants. Anothersuggestion: make sure your shirt and tie (shouldyou choose to wear a tie) are up-to-date. Theyoungest way to accessorize is with a spread collarshirt and a skinny tie; mixing colors and patternsalso adds energy and exuberance to your look.Come into the store and we’ll show you someoptions, no purchase necessary.QWhat should I wear for ajob interview?Even if you know the dress code is casual, alwayswear a suit. Better safe than sorry.ETON37

fashionMEN ONPhotographed by JON MOEProduced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

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fashion12ways tomaximizeyourwardrobeGET MOREBANG! FORYOUR BUCKPhotographed by JEFFREY APOIANProduced by SUSAN F. SIDORTHE SUIT

1 RELAX: WEAR THE SUIT JACKETWITH AN OPEN COLAR1 ALLDRESSED UPCAN’T GO WRONG WITH CLASSIC COLOR, CURRENT CUT2YOUNG & HIP: MIX IT UP WITH AVEST AND BOWTIE.2NIGHT OUTA SUIT JACKET DOES DOUBLE DUTY WORN WITH DARK JEANS3IMPRESS: WEAR AN ASCOT ANDJEANS3BUSINESS CASUALFLAT-FRONT PANTS ARE MODERN AND SLIMMING4ALL BUSINESS: A GREAT TIE & POCKETSQUARE IS ALWAYS RIGHT.4RELAXED ELEGANCEADD A GREAT VEST AND DRESS SHIRT

fashion1 ON THE GOTHIS FUNCTIONAL BLAZER HELPS YOU TRAVEL IN STYLE2PREPPY STYLEADD A CABLE KNIT AND A VIBRANT POCKET SQUARE3SPORTY CHICCOOL AND COMFORTABLE OVER CASHMERE4BUTTONED UPTHE SPORTCOAT GOES DRESSY IN A TAILORED LOOK

4 ways to wearTHE TRAVELERSPORTCOAT

fashion4 ways to wearTHE SYSTEMSJACKETGROOMER: MARK LEYLAND; MODELS: SIMON WHEELDON/DNA MODELS, WADE PONIC/MAJORMODELS; ASSISTANTS: TARA FERRI, AVERILL ROBERTO, JULIO FRIAS; TAILOR: JULIO FRIAS

1 WEEKENDCOMFORTPAIR THE OUTER SHELL WITH A SOFT BUT CHIC HOODIE2KEEPING WARMLAYER WITH A FITTED SPORT SHIRT AND CARDIGAN3INNER BEAUTYTHE LIGHTWEIGHT INNER SHELL WORKS WITH ANY OUTFIT4DRESS IT UPTHE JACKET STEPS UP ITS STYLE OVER A SPORTCOAT

clothingTAILORED TO PERFECTIONKNOWING HOW WELL YOUR SUIT IS MADE IS AS SIMPLEAS KNOWING WHAT TO LOOK FOR. BY WILLIAM KISSELo celebrate its centennialyear, Ermenegildo Zegnasuits this fall are cut with asoft, slightly-roped shoulderto complement the jacket’snipped-in waist and trimmer lapel, alook that characterized the suits ofthe brand’s namesake and founderback in 1910. Brioni is also offering anew shape, called the Senato, whichis cut longer and leaner than theclassic silhouette for which the suitmaker is known. Meanwhile, the gentlemanwho likes Kiton’s sculptedNeapolitan clothing will appreciatethe seemingly unconstructed shouldersand natural chest line found inits newest two-button models.Every suit maker from Armani toZegna has its own sartorial point ofview this season. However, the subtletailoring nuances that make onesuit better than another are notquite as easy to discern. Nothingsays you’re ready to do business likea suit. And if you’ve bought one inthe last decade, you know thatshoulder pads come and go, lapelsvary from narrow to wide, and ventschange from center to side and backagain, seemingly on the whim ofsome designer’s mood. While suchstylistic details can alert you to thelatest trends, they have little to dowith how well a suit is made.Like the plumbing and electricalcomponents camouflaged behind thedrywall in your home, much of asuit’s construction is concealedbehind beautiful interior Bembergsilk linings. Opening the seams tosee what’s inside is simply not anoption and, thankfully, not reallynecessary. That’s because many ofthe hallmarks of fine suit making arevisible right there on the surface.That is, if you know where to look.The easiest way to recognize the52

quality of a suit is by touching thefabric used to make it. To paraphraseAnna Zegna, a scion of theprestigious Italian clothing brandlaunched a century ago by hergrandfather, only the finest fabricswith the softest hand are used toproduce high quality suits. The finerthe cloth, the better the materialdrapes and retains the shape of thegarment. Typically the rarest fabrics,including fine micron wool,silk, cashmere and vicuña, can costhundreds, even thousands, of dollarsa yard and are therefore reserved foronly the world’s premier suit makerswho understand how to tailor theminto wearable works of art. As youmight expect, the cost of a suit iscomparable to the fabric used tomake it, so in one sense it’s possibleto judge quality based on price. Butit’s much more than that.“I always suggest putting on thejacket to immediately see the difference,”says Kiton chief executiveAntonio de Matteis, who often refersto the brand’s signature suits as conformeal corpo, or second skins,because they are constructed asclose to the body as technically possible.Closely following the lines ofthe body is considered a mark ofquality because such precision fitcan only be achievedby a highly skilled tailor.If done properly, the formfittingsilhouette should feelsurprisingly more comfortable,and look more elegant, than suitjackets extolling a roomier fit.“A very chic suit is the one thatnobody notices from a far distancebut it’s easy to tell that it’s beautifuland well-made when you see it closeup,” adds de Matteis. Perfectionbegins “the moment the humanhand takes the place of themachine,” he concludes.TELLTALE SIGNS OF QUALITY INCLUDE:CORNELIANI• Hand-stitched horsehair canvas linings (not fused or glued canvas) inside thechest and waist help retain the jacket’s shape. Pinch the jacket at thebottom front. If you can feel three layers of fabric—the cloth, the lining andthe floating canvas inner lining—it’s the real deal.• A little extra fabric on the trouser inseams and interior seat, as well as a splitwaistband, make the garment easier to alter.• Interior sleeves that are hand stitched to the shoulders allow for completeease of movement.• A boutonniere stay under the lapel is a useful detail found only in thefinest suits.• Buttons inside trouser cuffs make it easier to “get the lint out.”• Hand pick-stitched lapels. Look for slightly uneven stitching as the hallmarkof human hands.• Interior pockets sewn into the actual jacket fabric, not the lining, retain thejacket’s clean aesthetic.• A knot threaded between the button and the jacket makes fastening easier.Sometimes all it takes to recognize quality is a quick peek at the label. Prestige brandsoften operate their own factories and closely oversee production. By comparison, manydesigners or no-name suit makers rely on their well-known names or a too-good-to-believeprice tag. There are plenty of exceptions, so ask your salesperson to be sure.CORNELIANICORNELIANIKITON53

furnishingsMOST MEN LOOK THEIR BEST WHENTHEY UNDERSTAND WHICH COLLARSENHANCE THEIR FEATURES.HAUTEUNDER THECOLLARThe proper collarand knot cangreatly improveyour look. ByWilliam KisselShirt makers often brag about thethread count of their fine cotton fabrics,the single-needle stitching atthe seams, the split-shoulderedyokes, even the distinctive crow’sfoot stitching used to fasten themother-of-pearl buttons.But before you get bogged downby myriad styling, color and patternoptions, make sure that your shirtcollar and tie knot are the propermatch for your face.“Think of your face as a portraitand your shirt collar as its frame,”offers menswear designer andauthor Alan Flusser, whoapproached the subject of propershirt selection in his book Style andthe Man.“The collar’s height on your neckas well as the length and spread ofits points should complement theshape and size of your face,” heexplains, noting that most menlook their best when they understandwhich collars enhance theirfeatures.It doesn’t require a degree in shirtscience to comprehend the principlesof picking the proper collar.Think of your collar and necktie as acounterbalance to the dimensions ofJEFFREY APOIAN

your face and thickness of yourneck. A long and narrow face, forinstance, will look fuller peeking outof a high-collared shirt with a moderatespread collar and fuller tieknot, such as a Windsor, Shelby orhalf-Windsor. In contrast, a broadface and thick neck can be made tolook leaner and longer simply bysporting a medium collar shirt andthinner knot, especially when bothrest just below the collarbone.These simple rules will help guideyou to sartorial success:Spread or Cutaway Spread collar shirts (and the slightly shorter,wider cutaway collar for more formal occasions) are designed to be worn with neckwearfeaturing a full or half-Windsor knot, a relatively wide knot once favored by(and named for) Edward VIII, the late Duke of Windsor. Designed to complement along, narrow face, these collars are being featured as a fashion trend this season,often shown with skinny ties.Straight or Long-Point Among the oldest and most universallyaccepted, the exaggerated straight-point collar, sometimes called a long-point, isgenerally three inches or longer and most effective at making a round, broad, oroval-shaped face appear more angular. Ideal for heavyset or athletic men in need ofa slight slimming effect (or soft-chinned men craving a strong line under the jaw),this versatile collar can have a similar elongating effect on men with a shorterstance. Because of the narrow opening between the collar points, a classic four-inhandneckwear knot with its flattering conical form achieves the perfect balance.Tab or Pinned More casual than a classic straight-point collar, the tab orpin-collared shirt is primarily intended for use with a blazer or sport coat. Its distinctivefeature is a buttoning bridge between the two wings—or eyelets on thewings used with a tie bar—to form a snug fit around a small, neat, four-in-hand knot.Because the bridge forces the collar higher up and the knot outward on the neck,this is an ideal combination for those looking to camouflage a long neck.Button-down Originally worn by 19th century English polo players tokeep their shirt collars from flapping during play, button-down collared shirtsbecame an Ivy League tradition after they were adopted in the early 1900s by thelate John Brooks of Brooks Brothers. A sporty alternative to the straight-point, thebutton-down (worn buttoned or unbuttoned depending on the degree of casualness)is best suited to a patterned four-in-hand knotted necktie. New button-down collarsare larger with a slight roll.55

profileBY JOHN JONES56TheArtof KitonCiro Paone, the 75-year-old head of the Kitonempire, got off an eight-hour flight fromMoscow to Naples and headed directly toTrattoria Fresco on the Lungomare for a latenight beer and snack. He’d been to Russia toadd to his growing pack of CaucasianOvcharkas, a rare dog breed that he raises atthe Kiton factory on the city’s outskirts. Themiracle of this event is that the resilient Paonesuffered a debilitating stroke four years ago,and is still going strong.He still presides over events at the 54-yearoldcompany, although he has ceded much ofthe daily grind to his nephew, Antonio deMatteis, the company’s CEO. In fact, de Matteisinformed me that fabric dealers will often bringnew product to the factory for Paone himself toapprove because, as de Matteis puts it, “He hasmagic fingers.”It takes a man of that fortitude to establishand build an iconic company that holds to itshigh standards, individually assembling 100suits a day, as well as shirts and shoes, all whilemaintaining strict Italian hand-tailoring techniquesthroughout most of the process.Wilkes Bashford was the first store in theUnited States to recognize that quality and toshowcase the Kiton brand. The Paone familystill visits San Francisco regularly, and BobMitchell often visits the Naples factory, sendingsales associates to Italy to be trained as expertsin the art of Kiton.The suits take more than 25 hours to make,incorporating 150 steps. The fabric for each is cutby hand and most pieces are sewn together manually.Men do most of the hand-tailoring, savingwomen’s lithe fingers for more delicate work.Yes, the suits command as much as $7,000dollars, and can go as high as $30,000, but discerningclients understand that quality clothingestablishes one’s position in the world.If the prices are still a bit of a reach, theSartorio collection, a recent acquisition, holdsto the company’s high standards. Without thehand-finishing, suits sell for around $3,000.After all, magic fingers don’t come cheap.

It is not just our trademark. It is our tradition.Three simple lines that revolutionized an industry.A timeless embroidery unique in construction and durability.experience the original.

q&aA Q & A WITH RUSS MITCHELL ABOUT HIS PERSONALSTYLE AND WHY HE’S KNOWN FOR WEARING...“ NOBLACKSHOES”DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. “As a ‘financialguy,’ my style is classic, yet always on theleading edge of current within classic. I lovethe new flat-front pants, but it took me awhile to adjust to shorter jackets. Now I lovethem and longer jackets look dated to me.Dressing well is all in the details. Too muchemphasis is placed on the suit or jacket.Shirts, ties, cufflinks, belts, socks, shoes, etc.are what make all the difference. That’s whereyou can show individuality. People tease me,because I never wear black shoes.WHY NO BLACK SHOES? I only own black shoesto wear with a tux, but I have black suedeinstead of patent. I just think there is nothingbetter than a medium brown leather with aworn patina. Brown to me has a depth andwarmth that is my favorite. It’s so much moreinteresting than black. The hurdlefor some customers is wearing brownshoes with dark navy or grey. In Italy, thisis a no-brainer.DO YOU WEAR SHOES IN COLORS OTHER THAN BROWN?I have some desert-colored bucks I love,they can transform an outfit. I wear manynatural shades of brown, but, no, I don’tdo blue suede.WHAT ARE YOUR FASHION INFLUENCES? My keyinspiration is Italian men… designers,businessmen, men in cafés, on the streets…they always look so put together. They’reborn with style, it’s part of their culture.ANY FAVORITE MEN’S TRENDS FOR FALL? My favorite“must have” is a soft, unstructured sportcoatthat fits like a second shirt. They are versatileand so comfortable. We have them inlightweight wool, cashmere, velvet, corduroy,sueded cotton. I have a deep chocolate browncorduroy one that feels like velvet and alwaysbrings compliments. You can dress it upwith slacks, or my favorite is to wear it withjeans and a white shirt. Throw in a few greataccessories, and to me, that’s the perfectoutfit.“ THOUGH NOT MY THING,BLACK SHOES WILLALWAYS BE IN STYLE.HOWEVER, THERE’S BEENA SHIFT... NOW MANY MENBUY MORE BROWN THANBLACK, WHILE IT USED TOBE THE REVERSE.”RUSS MITCHELLCO-CEO, MITCHELLS FAMILY OF STORES

dressACCORDING TO MY GRANDFATHER,OUR CHOICE OF CLOTHING IS ONEOF THE MOST IMPORTANT DECISIONSWE MAKE EACH DAY.NIRVANATHROUGHCLOTHINGGet ready to transform your life.By Vivek Nagraniuring his time, my grandfather built asuccessful retail business. Every summer,I’d spend days at his stores,working the floor, watching customersand learning the meaning of luxury.According to my grandfather, our choice ofclothing is one of the most important decisionswe make each day. In a world of turmoil, thismight sound superficial, but think about it:Whenever you step out of your house, what youwear and how you wear it sends a message tothose you encounter. What’s more, the way youlook is directly correlated to the way you feel. Ifyour wardrobe makes you feel great, you walkthe walk. Much like an athlete’s uniform, yourchoice of clothing sets the mood, creates theattitude. When you’re in the zone, everyone youinteract with feels that energy and reacts to it.Clothing is far more than fabric to cover thebody. It’s a way you express a sense of style tothe world, creating a unique state of mind.60

Every piece of clothing you ownshould enhance your lifestyle. Eacharticle should work to create multiplelooks and bring variation whencombined with the rest of yourwardrobe.his fall, I encourage youto seek Nirvana by applyinga few small changesto your wardrobe—andyour attitude. If you peerthrough your closet andfind yourself bored oruninspired, choose change. Whenyou start to enjoy what you wear,you start to feel better. If clothingserves merely a utilitarian purpose,you have missed out on a veryenjoyable part of life. Would a gentlemandrink an inferior wine justbecause it is on the table? As in allareas of life, one should savor eachexperience, including something assimple as putting on underwear orsocks.That said, here are a few thoughtson how you can enhance your life byadjusting your wardrobe.Starting from the top: the jacket.Soft coats are essential to the manon the move. When I say soft coat, Iam referring to a less constructedcoat that has a natural, soft shoulder.The fit is tailored, and the lookis flattering for all body types.Unless your health club requires youto work out in your jacket, you don’tneed to size up. (My recommendationthis season: a soft cashmeresportcoat that goes with anything.)Next, the shirt. Gone are the daysof the man-blouse, that billowy flowof fabric hanging out of yourtrousers. For men on the husky side,fitted shirts make you appear leanerand more put together. For the trimguy, the slimmer shirt highlightsyour sexy shape.Let’s talk trousers. For me, anythingmore than a single pleat isunnecessary unless you are a memberof the Russian dead lifting team.Your chinos are great, and I’m sureyou’ve had great times in them, butit’s time to refine that look. The fivepockettrouser is an ideal choice forboth casual and dress. Choose softfabrics like corduroy, cotton twill orbrushed cotton. Combined with asoft coat, you have many moreoptions than with denim or chino.And the look is modern and elegant.The belt can make or break yourwhole look. When selected correctly,a belt can slim the waist as well asfinish or enhance an outfit. Differenttrousers require different belts. Abelt you wear with a suit will lookridiculous when worn with denim.An easy rule to remember: the beltshould fill the belt loop. For denim,try something playful, interestingand different. For dress, try skinswith unique textures. In general,your belt should match your shoe,but rules can be broken, especiallywith denim.A woman can size up any manjust by looking at his shoes. Moveaway from black this season in favorof brown or cordovan to take yourentire wardrobe to the next level.For fall, try a half boot to change thedrape of your trouser. Loafers aregreat with more casual looks, but ifBELIEVE IT OR NOT, EVEN GREATSOCKS CAN CHANGE YOUR MOOD,PUT A SMILE ON YOUR FACE ANDGET THE WOMAN ACROSS THE ROOMTO COME BY AND SAY HELLO.you’re wearing a suit, go with a laceupor monk strap.As with anything in life, the differenceis in the details. Believe it ornot, even great socks can changeyour mood, put a smile on your faceand get the woman across the roomto come by and say hello.Above all, shop with enthusiasm.Enjoy each item you purchase, savorthe experience and have fun withyour clothes. It’s all a part of celebratinglife.Vivek Nagrani is a well-dressedmenswear designer who knows howto celebrate life. You can find hissmile-inducing socks in our store.61

eventsWILKES BASHFORD RECENTLY BROUGHT AMERICA’STOP APPAREL MERCHANTS TO SAN FRANCISCO. BY BOB MITCHELLA BRIEF HISTORY OFTHE FORUM GROUPThe Men’s Apparel Forum started backin the early 1940s on the railroad fromCalifornia to New York market week. Asthe train moved eastward, more andmore merchants got on board and it was“cards and booze” all the way to The BigApple. Writes Forum historian CarlSlesinger of Larrimor’s in Pittsburgh,“They would all stay in the same NewYork City hotel for three to five weeks.The card games and social drinkingwould, on occasion, be interrupted bysome buying.”Fast forward to 2010, and many ofthe same stores are still in the Forumgroup two or three generations later, butstill playing cards, still sharingknowledge, still seeking out the world’sbest fashion. Most of the stores haveadded women’s apparel, all haveupgraded their stores to be state-of-theart,and all remain totally committed tokeeping their independent storecolleagues ahead of the competition.Observes Giorgio Canali of Canali, “It’sno coincidence that these are the storesgrowing in a tough market. These are themerchants who are the true leaders andrisk-takers.”hey may have left their hearts inSan Francisco, but the Forumstore merchants who visitedWilkes Bashford this past Mayalso left us with some greatideas for the future. Clearly, San Franciscofashionistas have much to gain from havingAmerica’s best merchants share theirfashion and retail expertise. In the process,these retailers enjoyed a San Francisco-stylemarathon of fabulous food, great wine,terrific sightseeing and lots of laughter andcamaraderie. They’re still raving about theirdinner in Chinatown, watching sea lionssunning on the Piers, Beach Blanket Babylonand, of course, an “up-close and personal”with the one and only Willie Brown!Who are the Forum stores? Since joiningwith the Mitchells, Wilkes Bashford isnow part of a group comprising 13 of thetop independent merchants in America.They come together twice a year tochallenge each other to be better in everyaspect of the business: from product,62pricing and presentation to service, salesand special events. By sharinginformation and raising the bar on allstandards of excellence, these 13 storeshave managed to outperform the multiunitupscale chains in virtually everycategory. In so doing, they’ve become theleading stores in their communities: fromDenver to Dallas, Memphis toMinneapolis, Seattle to San Francisco.The Mitchell family has been part ofthis group for more than 30 years; ourdesire to listen, learn and improve isright in sync with the Forum storephilosophy. After a group visit to PaloAlto and Sutter Street, we asked theserenowned merchants to critique bothWilkes Bashford stores from top tobottom. The goal: to upgrade yourshopping experience to the nth degree.We’re still digesting their input, but beprepared for some exciting changesahead.

FAVORITE WEEKENDGETAWAYS FORWILKES AND DUTCHIEOne of my favorite things about San Francisco... is getting out of San Francisco!The mountains, the ocean, the architecture, the spas; it’s all so spectacular. Beloware my personal favorite pooch-friendly places to get away for a long weekend oreven just a night. Tell them Wilkes sent you!unabashedly wilkesMENDOCINOMACCALLUM HOUSE SUITES45020 Albion Street707.937.0289 or 800.609.0492“Accommodations availablein Victorian mansion builtin 1882. The barn with oceanviews... or the luxury suiteswhich overlook the village. Iprefer the suites.”STANFORD INN BY THE SEAHighway I at Comptche, Ukiah Road707.937.5615 or 800.331.8884“Proprietors Jeff and JoanStanford are avid dog loversand provide many amenitiesfor you and your pet. Graciousgrounds and ocean views.”MONTECITOSAN YSIDRO RANCH900 San Ysidro Lane805.969.5046“Top notch. Expensive. Dogsstay in one of the ranch’sfreestanding cottages.”CARMELCYPRESS INNLincoln and 7th Avenue831.624.3871“Co-owned by animal activistDoris Day and the ever-charmingDenny LeVett. Doggie High Teaeach afternoon in the lounge.”TRADEWINDS INNMission and 3rd Avenue831.624.2775“Excellent in-town location withgentle, peaceful atmosphere.”PEBBLE BEACHTHE LODGE AT PEBBLE BEACH17 Mile Drive831.647.7500“Deluxe accommodations, oceanviews and walking paths.”RANCHO MIRAGEMISSION HILLS RESORT AND SPA71333 Dinah Shore Drive760.328.5955“Expansive grounds, privatepatios. Dogs must be under40 pounds.”SANTA BARBARAFOUR SEASONS BILTMORE1260 Channel Drive805.969.2261“Absolutely beautiful hotel facingthe ocean. People with pets stayin the cottage rooms, which arefirst class.”BACARA8301 Hollister Avenue805.968.0100“Upscale resort. Some distancenorth of town. Dogs must weighunder 25 pounds.”

cookinghile dining out has itsbenefits, sometimes there’s nothingmore romantic than an intimatedate night at home. Withthe help of Eric S. Lee’s SweepingHer Off Her Feet With Food, evennovice chefs can master sure-towowdishes like Duck Breast withRaspberry Ginger Sauce andLamb Osso Bucco.Lee provides full menus forsimple but delicious meals, laidout in order of increasing difficulty.He also offers easy tips forenhancing the mood, dressing toimpress (we can help with that!)and setting a beautiful table. Likeany good cookbook, there’s aglossary of terms and photos ofthe basic tools you’ll need. ButLee’s deeper message is that ourrelationships deserve the sameamount of effort we devote to theRomanceother areas of our increasinglyhectic lives. When you take theARECIPEFORHEAT UP COLD NIGHTS WITHA HOME COOKED MEAL FORTWO. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE64extra time to make your partnerfeel special, good things aresure to follow. Wink.This recipe for Baked Tilapiawith Ratatouille was created byLee exclusively for Forum readers.It’s a great fall dish that’ssimple yet hearty, and a snap tomake. End with a box offavorite chocolate truffles for ano hassle dessert. (Continued)IMAGES BY JULIE CARDINAL

Baked Tilapia with Ratatouille2 4-6 ounce tilapia filets (or othermild fish like sole or halibut)1 medium zucchini cut lengthwiseand sliced into half-moons1 small eggplant diced into 1 inchcubes4 fresh Roma tomatoes, diced3 cloves of garlic, chopped1 /3 cup red onion, chopped1 /4 teaspoon thyme1 /4 teaspoon oregano1 /4 cup white wine1 /4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil1 /2 cup brown ricesalt and pepper to tastePreheat oven to 375 0 . Place a 2-quartsaucepan on stove over medium highheat. Add 1 /4 cup olive oil. Once oil iswarm, add zucchini and eggplant andsauté for 3 to 4 minutes, until vegetablesbegin to soften. Add garlic andonion, then stir and sauté untiltranslucent, about 2 minutes. Turnheat to high and immediately pour inwhite wine. Cook mixture until liquidbegins to evaporate, about 1 minute.Add tomatoes, thyme and oreganoand cook for 1 minute, then reduceheat to simmer and cook for 15 minutes,stirring occasionally. Add saltand pepper to taste.Prepare brown rice according toinstructions on package.Salt and pepper both sides of eachfish filet and place in an 11 x 9 inchbaking dish oiled with 2 tablespoonsof olive oil. Place in oven and bakefor 7 to 9 minutes, until fish iscooked through and flakes whenpierced with a fork. Remove fromoven and place fish filets on top of1 /4 cup of cooked brown rice placedin the center of dinner plate. SpoonRatatouille on top of fish and servewith warmed artisan bread and oliveoil for dipping.Enjoy with a light bodied Merlot,Pinot Noir, Beaujolais or Rioja.1950-2010CELEBRATING 60 YEARSOF AUTHENTIC AMERICAN STYLEwww.roberttalbott.com65

world sceneISABELLE ET VINCENTLET THEM EAT CAKEAfter drawing customers from all over France to his boulangeriein Strasbourg for over 20 years, Master Patissier, Confiseur andGlacier Vincent Koenig and his wife Isabelle have come toAmerica and opened Isabelle et Vincent in Fairfield,Connecticut. Here they create sublime French pastries, trufflesmade with Valrhona chocolate, breads, quiches and tarts, andeven homemade ice creams. For the autumn and winter months,Vincent prepares marrons glacís (candied chestnuts), layeredhot chocolate (an intoxicating concoction of both dark and milkValrhona chocolate) and brioche noelle (a traditional French logcake filled with chocolate, coffee, vanilla and praline).The World at Your Door: European experiencesin America. By Donald Charles RichardsonITALIAN DINING HITS THE PEAKS66TODD NAKASHIMANestled at the foot of the Carnicand Julian Alps in northeast Italy,the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region iscelebrated for its food and wine.Now the cuisine, culture and wineof Friuli can be found in anothermountain district. James BeardFoundation Award winners, MasterSommelier Bobby Stuckey andChef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson, have opened Frasca inBoulder, Colorado. The menu combineslocal organic produce andfoods with Friuli-style flair in disheslike Colorado lamb withMarzano tomato ragu. The winelist is extensive and includes therestaurant’s own Friuli-made wine,Scarpetta. To keep Frasca authentic,the entire staff travels annuallyto Italy and brings back new ideas.This fall, guests can look forwardto a variety of veal dishes withwhite truffles, served with avibrant 2004 Vajra Barolo.

VINTAGES ON THE EDGEON A MISSIONThe Mission Inn in Riverside,California started as a 12-room adobeboarding house in the 1870s. FrankMiller turned it into a luxury hotel in1903, decorating it with objects gatheredon his numerous trips to Europe.There are flying buttresses, an interiorSpanish courtyard with an Italianinspiredbronze Bacchus fountain, marblemosaics, frescos and a unique collectionof 400 bells strewn throughoutthe grounds, a favorite of Miller’s.Included is the oldest dated bell inChristendom (A.D. 124), brought fromEngland. Today, even the service has aEuropean flair. There’s an impressivewine list, an authentic Italian restaurant,and the 7,000 square foot spa utilizesEuropean techniques and oils.THE MANSION ON THE HILLTHE MISSION INN HOTEL & SPAFor nearly 30 years, Seattlewine merchant McCarthy &Schiering has been collectingand offering theirclients wonderful winesfrom around the world.Divided between two shopsare nearly 1,500 Europeanwines focusing primarily onsmall individual estates ofFrance and Italy, andrecently the vintages beingproduced in Austria, Spain,Portugal and Germany. Thisfall, for a simple dinner,McCarthy & Schiering recommendsPico MaccarioLavignone Barbera d’Asti(about $13). On more lavishoccasions, you might serveone of the finest handcraftedwines from France,Chateau d’Yquem. (Thechateau dates back to the1600s and grapes arepicked as many as tentimes per vintage in partialclusters.) 100 bottles will beoffered in an immense 15liter size for $20,000.MAXWELL BALMAINCARLTON HOBBESThe quiet, graceful Carnegie Hill neighborhood of New York City’sUpper East Side is home to important museums and magnificenttownhouses. Among the most impressive is a three-story mansion inthe Neoclassical French style, built in 1930 by architect John RussellPope for Virginia Graham Fair Vanderbilt. International antiques dealersCarlton Hobbs and Stefanie Rinza painstakingly restored the houseto its former glory as a showplace for their European antique gallery.The collection includes a superb porcelain and gilt bronze-mounteddemi-lune side table by Bellange, originally acquired for CarltonHouse by George IV, and a Travertine dining table designed by HenryMoore. The Carlton Hobbs Gallery is open to the public, offering aremarkable opportunity to discover rare treasures.67

In order to help you better integrate yournew seasonal purchases with the old, weoffer our clients a complimentary closetconsultation. One of our professionalsales associates will personally visit yourhome to inventory your closet, providingsuggestions on how to creatively mix andmatch your existing wardrobe. One of ourexperienced tailors can also be on hand,to provide any fitting or re-adjustmentsyou may need. And if you so desire, we willprovide a photographic catalogue of yourwardrobe for further reference.Our long-term sales associates have beenwith us for an average of 16 years, and arepassionate about counseling our customersand advising them on all clothing andaccessory matters. They are willing to gothe extra mile to ensure that your shoppingexperience is a pleasant one, and they’lleven take a trip to your home or office togive you a personal closet consultation,providing suggestions on how to creativelymix and match your existing wardrobe.Trust our professional sales associatesto put together the ultimate outfit andcoordinate you from head to toe. Toalleviate confusion when you get home, wewill happily photograph your ensembles,providing a catalogue you can refer to timeafter time.A loose thread or button can be just thething that unravels your day. Bring in anysuits or outerwear with buttons that needassistance, and we’ll re-attach or tightenthem for you, on site and free of charge. Welike to see you looking your best, down tothe details.A Wilkes Bashford gift card is the gift thatalways fits! Our gift cards are available forpurchase in store or over the phone, in anydenomination. If you can’t make it to thestore, just give us a call — we’ll wrap the giftcard up and ship it to the recipient for you!In order to ensure that the fit isjust right, we offer complimentaryalterations on all of our clothing. Downto the detail of the stitching, we ensureeach article is tailored specifically toyou. Our on-site team of world-classtailors is ready to assure that you alwaysbring home a perfect fit.

We offer complimentary gift-wrapping foryour purchases, on any day you want. Youconcentrate on choosing the perfect gift;we’ll do the rest.Service is important to us, not only in ourstore, but also in our community. We willhelp you clear out those unwanted itemsthat have been cluttering up your closet,while providing for a good cause. Alldiscarded items will be donated to a localcharity — we will coordinate the donationand make the delivery ourselves.It impacts every facet of our business,from our ability to bring you worldclassfashions to the friendly,knowledgeable sales associates whohelp and guide you. You, our customersand friends, are ultimately at theheart of all that we do, and we strive toconstantly exceed your expectations. Iffor some reason you feel that the levelof service we provide does not meetyour expectations, please let us know.Developing lasting personal relationshipshelps our sales associates select items thatthey know you will enjoy, and ease yourshopping experience.Our personal shoppers are available tomake your experience here as effortless aspossible. For your convenience, they willpre-select a wardrobe to fit your clothingneeds, placing the garments in a privatefitting room. Once our associates havelearned your style and needs, they can keepan eye out for specific items you might belooking for in the future. Call our stores formore information.

AN ENDURING PASSION FOR FABRIC AND INNOVATION SINCE 1910